New front fork
I have 2012 trek marlin and I want to upgrade the front fork. Other than getting a fork for a 29er, what other specs should I look for. I have found serval rock shox Reba's on eBay that seem to be price well, I just didn't want to buy one and it not work. Thanks for the help.
Darn.... you just missed he special from Jenson....the 29er reba was on sale for under 400 yesterday.
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Make sure you get the correct size steerer tube. Remember to have a bike shop remove your old crown from your old fork and install it on your new fork.
Originally Posted by jtm2227
I would take your old fork out and measure it to be safe. If you have questions bring it into your local bike shop and they can tell you what you have.
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Here is some text from the internet wiki pages: Bicycle fork - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
LengthThe length of the fork is usually measured parallel to the steerer tube from the bottom of the lower bearing race to the center of the front wheel axle
WidthThe width of the fork, also called spacing, is measured colinear with the front wheel axle between the inside edges of the two fork ends. Most modern adult sized forks have 100 mm spacing. Downhill mountain bike forks designed for through axles have 110 mm spacing.
Steerer tube length -- The steerer tube is sized either to just accommodate the headset bearings, in the case of a threaded headset, or to contribute to the desired handlebar height, in the case of a threadless headset.
Steerer tube diameter - When sizing a fork to a frame, the diameter of the fork steerer or steer tube (1" or 1⅛" or 1½") must not be larger than that of the frame, and the length of the steerer tube should be greater than but approximately equal to the head tube length plus the stack height of the headset. Adapter kits are available to enable use of a 1" fork in a frame designed for a 1⅛" steer tube or a 1⅛" fork in a 1½" frame.
General sizing issues - The blades must be the proper length to both accommodate the desired wheel and have the correct amount of rake to provide the approximate steering geometry intended by the frame designer. The functional length of the fork is typically expressed in terms of Axle-to-Crown race length (A-C). Also, the axle on the wheel must fit in the fork ends (usually either a 9mm solid or hollow axle, or a 20mm thru-axle). Some manufacturers have introduced forks and matching hubs with proprietary standards, such as Maverick's 24mm axle, Specialized 25mm thru-axle and Cannondale's Lefty system.
Threading - Fork steerer tubes may be threaded or unthreaded, depending on the headset used to attach the fork to the rest of the bicycle frame. An unthreaded steel steerer tube may be threaded with an appropriate die if necessary. The thread pitch is usually 24 threads per inch except for some old Raleighs which use 26.
Last edited by p08757; 12-12-2012 at 10:52 AM.
I would stay away from a used fork from e-bay. If you wish to purchase a used fork, it's really important to have it checked out at a bike shop. Remember that most used forks have proab been ridden pretty hard. If you are an agressive rider, or an aspiring agressive rider; buy an new fork and deal with your local bike shop.
Measure the length of your steerer tube or approximately the length. Fork crown to the cap on top of your stem. You want one at least that long. 1-1/8" with 9mm dropouts. 2010-2012 RockShox Reba 29 RLT or RL will be 250 about. You will get dual air tuneability. Ebay lists the parts for a service and the Sram site has manuals, if necessary.
26" RS SID 120mm XX World Cup fork (carbon crown and steerer) on sale at Jenson for $399 today only... too bad it's a 26 or it'll be a good buy.
Rockshox Sid XX WC 120mm Fork 2011 > Components > Forks > Suspension Forks | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
if its a trek Gary fisher model make you sure you look for the G2 geometry , 51mm offset is specifically Fisher ..my opinion
and the nominees for useless post of the year are.....
Originally Posted by shibiwan
Go for the tower pro, a lot of versatility, just picked one up myself got a great deal on it. you definately need to make sure you have the right spring but once you do, you should be good. lots of tuning options as you grow with it or just keep it stock and have a solid setup
If you're worried about the non-G2 geometry, the tower pro I believe has a 48mm offset. The closest you can get to the 51mm G2 offset.
Originally Posted by rollarducks
Get a new bike. If you get a new fork, you'll still have a disposable drivetrain, brakes and hubs. That stuff's all on its way to short-term failure too.
Consider this bike a way to get your feet wet and get some trail time. If you haven't found a tire you like and "your" pressure, that's worth doing. Getting the fit dialed for you is worthwhile. But you can't get back any of the money you bolt to this thing.
Fishers are pretty good about having non-crappy forks a little earlier than when a lot of other brands get around to shipping bikes with them. In a new bike, I'd say look for a Recon or better.
For the MSRP of the Marlin, you can also do quite well on the used market.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx