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  1. #1
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    New Components Help

    Hi-
    Im new to the forum but have been biking for 4 years now. I have a bone stock Giant Yukon ( Yukon (brushed/charcoal) (2009) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States ) and I want to get some better parts on it now that I am starting to bike alot more. What would be the best things to do first, and what specific products do you recommend? Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Budget is important - what are you looking to spend?
    Anything in particular you would like to change about the way your bike works?
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  3. #3
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    Maybe a couple 100-200 dollar upgrades. How much would a solid fork be? the one on my bike is crap.

  4. #4
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    if you can find a midrange air fork on the used market, you might be able to find it in your price range. They can be tough to find, though.

    You could probably find a better wheelset than the stock one in your price range, too. Both would be notable improvements.

    You could also consider investing a little bit into some nice pedals, nice lock-on grips, better tires.

    I wouldn't dump money into new drivetrain components. those tend to have a low return on investment. It's difficult to notice an improvement. Typically, new cables and housing will be more noticeable, and should be replaced on a regular basis, anyway.

  5. #5
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    I'll second what Nate says.
    If you haven't done tires, cables, chain yet, do those, as well as the lock-ons, as one of your upgrades. Tires can make a big difference. Not sure how comfortable you are mechanically, so you might want to figure in the cost of having a shop do the cables and chain. Might as well take look at the brake pads and see how they're holding up too.

    Wheels are a good upgrade, but a truing and retensioning on the ones you have could be worth doing depending what sort of shape they're in. Good way to breathe a little life into them for a pretty low cost (again, this could be something you're willing to tackle yourself).

    Fork would probably be the upgrade that gives the biggest performance bump. Also, it's likely the most expensive. You could probably find something decent used in the neighborhood of a couple hundred bucks on ebay.
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  6. #6
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    When im looking at forks, what kind do i need a certain kind/stem lenght? ive been trying to figure it out but I cant. Sorry to be such a noob. and any recommendations? Used fox? or a sid or reba?

  7. #7
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    If you buy new the stem is rather long and has to be cut down and the star nut installed. If you buy used you will need to remove your current fork and measure the stem length so you know what you have and what will work from the used market.
    My Giant's - 2014 Propel Adv Di2 - 2014 TCR Adv SL4 - 2014 Anthem Adv 27.5 - 2014 XtC Adv 27.5 - 2014 TCX Adv Pro

  8. #8
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    Manitou makes some good forks for under $300; one of those would make a big difference on your bike for sure.

  9. #9
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    If you have the original purchase receipt for your bike you can do an upgrade to a Suntour Raidon air fork from Nick at Suntour for $200. You will drop 1.7lbs or more from the front and have made a major upgrade.

    If you want to upgrade your Suntour fork

    Another good move would be to put a SLX front brake on. Wiggle has them for $75 and Jenson is price matching. Once you have that front brake with all the power and modulation control, the rear brake won't get much use. So save it for a future upgrade after wheels.

  10. #10
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    That is odd, I don't brake much with my front (quick way to end up on the ground when racing due to losing the front end). unless I am in a straight away or down a light descent most of my braking is via the rear.
    My Giant's - 2014 Propel Adv Di2 - 2014 TCR Adv SL4 - 2014 Anthem Adv 27.5 - 2014 XtC Adv 27.5 - 2014 TCX Adv Pro

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJay74 View Post
    That is odd, I don't brake much with my front (quick way to end up on the ground when racing due to losing the front end). unless I am in a straight away or down a light descent most of my braking is via the rear.
    You should practice some modulation with the front brake (ie -don't just yank on it) adn use it in conjunction with the rear. You'll find you have a ton more power and control that way.
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  12. #12
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    Its a Rock Shox fork not a SR....so it wouldn't work. Is there anyway to know the stem length without taking it off...thats a bit of a pain. Do you think a reba or sid would be good? Is buying used ussally ok? thanks for all the help!

  13. #13
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    I too have a giant Yukon that has all of the parts already though. It's 2012 version. I was wondering if it was Worth it to upgrade the parts as they break/wear down or just get a new, better bike. So far I only switched the pedals and put a drink holder on the bike.
    So, upgrade parts or get new bike when I'm ready to move on to better?

  14. #14
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    So i took off the fork and it is an UNtapered stem which is a little under 8 inches long...but theres a crapload of spacers too so I can take them out

    any recommendations on forks in the 200-300$ range? Sid, Reba? the foxes seem a bit expensive...is it really worth it? I ride xc and techinical so probs a 100-120.

    Is it ok to go from the stock 100 to a 120?

  15. #15
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    What you're referring to a "Stem" is actually a "Steerer" or Steerer Tube. The stem is what holds your handlebars onto the bike. The size of the steerer tube on your bike will be 1 1/8". Try to get as close as you can to the same length, but a little bit longer, or a little bit shorter is not a big deal. Better to have a bit longer than a bit shorter. You will have to make sure you get the same axle type (In your case, it is a 9mm quick-release), unless you want to buy a new front wheel with the new axle size.

    If you're looking in the used market, which I'm assuming you are given your price range, there are plenty of options. First, stick clear of dirt-jumping forks. Although they are in the same travel range you're looking for, they are not built for XC. They are significantly heavier, have larger axles (with the exception of older, or low-end models), and are not structured internally for general XC riding. As far as individual forks go...

    Fox
    Non-Talas forks from before CTD. Either F-series (F100), or float designated forks.
    Manitou
    Minute
    R7
    Marzocchi
    Can be difficult to find for the riding style you're looking for, but...
    Marathon
    Corsa
    Rockshox
    Recon gold
    Reba
    Sid (but make sure it's a modern one with 32mm stanchions rather than 30)
    X-fusion
    Velvet

    My top recommendation for the forks listed, would be trying to track down a recon gold or a manitou minute on ebay. They're very solid, very well-regarded forks and they're not too expensive.

    As far as upping the travel goes...you CAN do it, but it's generally not recommended. I put a 135 travel fork on my starting 100mm hardtail (it was a travel-adjust RS Tora fork, so I could dial it down to 85), and it was certainly fun to be able to blast through stuff a bit more, it did handle a little boaty, especially on twisty stuff. I personally would say for you to stick with the stock 100mm fork. Something with better dampening and quality will make a world of difference over the Dart, which likely isn't giving you the travel it is supposed to posses.

    All that said...I think your best upgrade would be to start saving for a new or new-to-you bike. If you're careful, and patient, you could come away with a rather nice bike for under 700 bucks.

    Do a few small things to keep your bike in riding shape, notably cables, tires, and depending on drivetrain condition, a new cassette and chain. But, if you're riding a lot, it's likely you've already outdone the capabilities of that bike, and trying to upgrade it into something more capable would be impractical and far too expensive.
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  16. #16
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    Thank you! That helps alot! Im gonna stick with this bike for a while loinger because im still growing and its gonna take a bit more of convincing my parents to let me spend that kind of money. For now im on a fork hunt! Thanks again

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