1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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Thread: MTBR Glossary

  1. #301
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    5 minute on this post, worth it!! thx mate!

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    OEM

    In the car world it means original equipment manufacturer. Same thing here? I keep seeing people refer to components from certain online retailers as OEM.

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    MTBR Glossary

    Quote Originally Posted by Zachua View Post
    OEM

    In the car world it means original equipment manufacturer. Same thing here? I keep seeing people refer to components from certain online retailers as OEM.
    Yup, and mostly just OE (original equipment). Also sometimes you'll see Take-Off, which is a part that has been taken off a bike and put for sale, often new or in very good condition, but not necessarily an OE part, since many particular seller will do this as well as retailers. Even more, both OE and Take-Off parts will not come with any retail packaging or user manual/documentation, as well as extras or supplied parts (like an allen/torx wrench for disc brake kit). However, OE and new Take-Off should always be brand new never used and come with the same warranty (if sold ** a retailer) as normal, unless specified.
    Last edited by David C; 02-03-2013 at 12:24 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  4. #304
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    Thanks very much. I'm sure I'll be referring back to this quite often for awhile.

  5. #305
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    This is great info. Thanks all!

  6. #306
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    This helps quite a bit...

  7. #307
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    Ah there were a few I was wondering about. Cheers

  8. #308
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    Good Stuff

  9. #309
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    Thanks for the info.

  10. #310
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    glad I saw this thread

  11. #311
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    OEM
    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Yup, and mostly just OE (original equipment). Also sometimes you'll see Take-Off, ...
    ... both OE and Take-Off parts will not come with any retail packaging or user manual/documentation, as well as extras or supplied parts...
    Another thing is: OEM tends to refer to the BIKE manufacturer, not the component manufacturer.

    Component manufacturers sometimes supply large bike companies with parts that are made to the bike company's specs, and are not available elsewhere. For example, an OEM fork might have a different set of features, compared with forks that are otherwise available. Or an OEM shock might have some special tuning tailored for a particular bike design (and less suited for some other design).

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  12. #312
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    Very Helpful

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    Very Informational!

  14. #314
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    PITA to have to learn all these acronyms, IMO.

    THX OP.

    I got hung up on stupid things like the difference between rigid and HT and also getting to know if there was any difference between 15QR and 15mm TA.

    Wait until you get to all the #s like 31.6, 31.8, 30.9, 27.2, 34.9, 68/73mm, 156Q, 56ZS, 49EC, 44IS, 57-599, 1/2" x 3/32", 180/185mm, 120/80 BCD, DOT 4, DOT 4.1, DOT 5, 1.2mm x 2000, etc. Watch out for mixed metric/imperial measurements and conversions... 5" of travel is how much in mm, 120, 125, or 127mm?

    Watch out for all the brand specific acronyms too, like RLC, RC2, RC3, RCT3, TST, BB30, PF30, PF92, BB95, etc.

    Then there's always the frame fit jargon, like SO, ST, HT, ETT, etc.

    Deciding to buy a frame, after buying and riding an used high performance bike and getting spoiled by nice parts, and comparing to other frames and then deciding to spec it nicely, has been fairly complex learning experience. I could probably spend another week surfing this board, but in the end, I bet I will still find myself to be stupid and uninformed, unable to find answers to any of my questions really, and with an emptying bank account. I don't think others with 1000s of posts and years of surfing this forum are really any better off than me, except maybe they learned to close their minds after allowing all this questionable knowledge swell their heads.
    Last edited by dv8xin; 03-23-2013 at 12:04 AM.

  15. #315
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    MAMIL - middle-aged men in lycra.

    Found it in a bike review quote, "balanced and comfortable enough to get the most hamfisted MAMIL to the end of a sportive feeling like a pro."

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    Quote Originally Posted by dv8xin View Post
    MAMIL - middle-aged men in lycra.

    Found it in a bike review quote, "balanced and comfortable enough to get the most hamfisted MAMIL to the end of a sportive feeling like a pro."
    ...And lookin' like a dummy.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  17. #317
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    Nice work!
    Here's my take on a few that I disagree about.

    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Quick facts :


    • Do not remove factory lube from a new chain, just wipe off excess with a rag when getting dirty.
      factory chain lube is good for keeping a chain new on the shelf. it prevents corrosion. It is also good for ensuring that any dirt that gets near your chain clings to it and works its way inside the chain. Leave it on at your own risk
    • 1/2" pedals threads are mainly for BMX use. 9/16" threads are more common for MTB and road use.
      1/2" pedal threads are for 1 piece cranks (only on the cheapest modern bikes) typically and 9/16" threads go with essentially all nicer cranks; there is not a distinction between bmx and mtb.
    • Seat post should be inserted at least to the minimum insertion length and better if long enough to go past the seat tube - top tube junction of the frame to ensure maximum strength and prevent frame fatigue.
      minimum insertion marks on the post are for the integrity of the post. For conventional frames, ensure that your post is inserted to go at least a half inch beyond the bottom wall of the top tube, where it meets the seattube; ultimately the frame mfg may have a different recommendation than the seatpost mfg. make sure both are met.
    • Put a protector on the chainstay of your bike to prevent the chain from damaging it. A simple inner tube can be wrapped around with zip ties.
      this is only necessary for bikes that use springs to tension the chain. for many single speeds, this doesn't matter.

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    Nice work!
    Here's my take on a few that I disagree about.

    factory chain lube is good for keeping a chain new on the shelf. it prevents corrosion. It is also good for ensuring that any dirt that gets near your chain clings to it and works its way inside the chain. Leave it on at your own risk
    Here's my take on one thing that I disagree about.

    All major chain manufacturers state that their Factory Lubes are probably the best thing for the internals of the chain.... as long as it lasts.

    The thing about exterior gunk is a very much separate thing. Wipe off the stuff from the exterior of the chain, maybe even with a rag that is wet with WD-40, or something. Add a thin layer of dry or waxy lube (maybe). But don't go soaking off the greasy stuff from the interior of the chain, until you have a good reason to.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  19. #319
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    DINK - dual income, no kids

    "the stereotypical, middle-aged DINK who always has the latest gear despite carrying five extra kilos of body mass and displaying the handling prowess of a giraffe on a skating rink."
    I like to jump to conclusions, oversimplify, gossip, and participate in popularity polls.

  20. #320
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    Forgive me if these questions have been answered on pages 2-11 but I didn't want to spend all day reading them. I was heavily into the MTB scene from 1990-1994 but sort of fell out out of it, then recently I've been getting back into it. As most FS bikes look the same to me (there's the ones that just look like bikes with a rear shock, then the bikes that look like motorcycles with no motors), I'm finding the miriad of MTB classifications confusing.

    1) Can a FS (full suspension) bike be considered XC?
    2) Can a hardtail be considered All Mountain?
    3) What are the differences between All Mountain, Over Mountain, Trail and Enduro?

  21. #321
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    MTBR Glossary

    Quote Originally Posted by Racnad View Post
    Forgive me if these questions have been answered on pages 2-11 but I didn't want to spend all day reading them. I was heavily into the MTB scene from 1990-1994 but sort of fell out out of it, then recently I've been getting back into it. As most FS bikes look the same to me (there's the ones that just look like bikes with a rear shock, then the bikes that look like motorcycles with no motors), I'm finding the miriad of MTB classifications confusing.

    1) Can a FS (full suspension) bike be considered XC?
    2) Can a hardtail be considered All Mountain?
    3) What are the differences between All Mountain, Over Mountain, Trail and Enduro?
    1 and 2, yes.

    3, they are pretty much all about riding bikes over chunky stuff and having a blast. Others will chime in on this. Endure is pretty much a competition though.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by dv8xin View Post
    PITA to have to learn all these acronyms, IMO.

    THX OP.

    I got hung up on stupid things like the difference between rigid and HT and also getting to know if there was any difference between 15QR and 15mm TA.

    Wait until you get to all the #s like 31.6, 31.8, 30.9, 27.2, 34.9, 68/73mm, 156Q, 56ZS, 49EC, 44IS, 57-599, 1/2" x 3/32", 180/185mm, 120/80 BCD, DOT 4, DOT 4.1, DOT 5, 1.2mm x 2000, etc. Watch out for mixed metric/imperial measurements and conversions... 5" of travel is how much in mm, 120, 125, or 127mm?

    Watch out for all the brand specific acronyms too, like RLC, RC2, RC3, RCT3, TST, BB30, PF30, PF92, BB95, etc.

    Then there's always the frame fit jargon, like SO, ST, HT, ETT, etc.

    Deciding to buy a frame, after buying and riding an used high performance bike and getting spoiled by nice parts, and comparing to other frames and then deciding to spec it nicely, has been fairly complex learning experience. I could probably spend another week surfing this board, but in the end, I bet I will still find myself to be stupid and uninformed, unable to find answers to any of my questions really, and with an emptying bank account. I don't think others with 1000s of posts and years of surfing this forum are really any better off than me, except maybe they learned to close their minds after allowing all this questionable knowledge swell their heads.
    When most all bikes had a horizontal top tube, frame size was the distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top of the top top. These days with sloping top tube and other exotic designs there's no standard for bike frame sizes. Add to that the fact that different people have different inseam, body and arm reach porportions, and these affect bike fit. Two people of the same height may not fit optimumly on the same bike. The only thing bike size labels are good for is a rough guide of which bikes in a shop you should try out.

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    1 and 2, yes.

    3, they are pretty much all about riding bikes over chunky stuff and having a blast. Others will chime in on this. Endure is pretty much a competition though.
    By today's definitions, would my 2002 Cannondale Jekyll be considered XC or AM?

  24. #324
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    MTBR Glossary

    By today's definition, your bike is still for the same usage as when it was designed 12 years ago.

    My 2000 dual suspension XC bike is still for XC.
    Last edited by David C; 08-06-2013 at 06:21 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  25. #325
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    Silly me! I thought these words all came into use during the past few years. I was looking though old files and found the 2002 Cannondale catalog from when I was last seriously shopping for a new bike. The Gemini was called "Freeride" and the Jekyll & Super-V were under "All Mountian." Way to pay attention!

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