1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    lil help please..

    going to look at this soon,does it look like a decent deal?


    specialized hardrock 24 speed. 21 in frame. brand new tektro disk brake setup, brand new shimano shifters, brand new handlebars, grips, brand new chain, brand new rockshock dart 3 fork with lockout, brand new cables with new jagwires kevlar housings, new seat post clamp. shimano acera derailleurs, kenda claw xt tires, shimano disk hubs laced to alex rims, sette venn seat post. i built this bike from the frame up for myself because it was a nice light weight frame, only to find out that it is to big for me.i have over $300 in new parts into this bike.asking $400 or trade for 18-19 inch trek with alpha super light, or slr frame. or 18-19 inch specialized bike

  2. #2
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    well i bought it. not as much as he was askin, hope i got a good deal.

  3. #3
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    This guy doesn't know wtf he has, or what it's worth. I'd hardly call the Hardrock frame "light."

    $400 is a little steep, IMO. But not crazy-steep. You're likely to have a hard time getting him to sell it for its real value because of all those "upgrades."

    How tall are you? 21" is a pretty big bike. Do you know what year it is?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  4. #4
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    well i got it for 3 bills, cause it's skiping in rear. going to lbs tomorrow to see whats up with it. and i'm 6'3, 240# bike feels good. so those "upgrades" arent real good huh? i used to ride bmx when i was younger, getting back into riding to lose weight and shape up,just quit smoking to buy bike also.

  5. #5
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    They're not terrible. The Dart at least has spring kits available for different stiffness, but you may be too big to get good performance from it even with the heaviest spring. Check out the clydesdale forum for advice from people with experience with that kind of thing.

    Branded cables and housings are something people buy because they don't understand why the generic ones don't always perform well. Or, they're lazy. A seat clamp as an upgrade?? It sounds like the guy was just throwing money at the bike to try to make it into something else, or because he had it and thought it would become magically better.

    Fixing the skip may not cost you anything but a few minutes of your time, or it could cost over a hundred dollars. The two places I'd start to try to figure out what's up with the bike are rear derailleur adjustment and chain wear.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur

    If, looking at the derailleur from the back, the cage is not vertical like in the picture, it could also be a problem with the derailleur hanger. Usually people can tune a derailleur on a bent hanger to shift smoothly in a couple gears at one end of the cassette but not the other.

    If the chain's toast, depending on how toasted it is, you might be looking at replacing the cassette and chain rings too. If you're thinking about a new set of chainrings, rather than just one or maybe two, think about a new crankset instead. Prices are often pretty comparable.

    Before you start trying to tune up the drivetrain, if the chain's not destroyed, take the time to clean it up and lube it. A chain covered in crud will never perform very well, even if it's pretty new and everything else is tuned right.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08op View Post
    well i got it for 3 bills, cause it's skiping in rear. going to lbs tomorrow to see whats up with it. and i'm 6'3, 240# bike feels good. so those "upgrades" arent real good huh? i used to ride bmx when i was younger, getting back into riding to lose weight and shape up,just quit smoking to buy bike also.


    Don't worry about the cost, 3 hundred got you closer to it's real value so good on you. Congrats on quitting smoking and the desire to get healthier, that is the real benefit in this and you can't put a price on that imho. Keep us posted on your journey and make sure you visit the Clydedales forum for tons of good info, good people there too.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-tall-riders/

  7. #7
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    thanks for the help, appericate it. well i was just looking at the rear derailer but then noticed that one link on the chain isnt connected,so one outside link is swinging on the pin. but i dont have a chain tool yet. might be my whole problem.

  8. #8
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    Post a picture.

    A lot of chains are joined with a special link that can be put together and taken apart by hand. That may be what you're looking at.

    If the link plate is already off and it's a normal link, you can probably remove it by hand. Throw it out, and replace it with a removable link. Your shop has them and they only cost a few dollars.

    But post a pic (or take it to your shop) if you're not sure.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  9. #9
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    bad link.bmpbad link.
    if i did it right
    cant get pics to work

  10. #10
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    D'oh!

    You can probably just tear that link off with a pliers. Replace it with a power link, and go ride.

    Hopefully that's the only reason for the poor drivetrain performance - a $4 fix will have saved you a lot more money than that.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  11. #11
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    you seen to know what your talking about !.... HELP ME :-)

    im an road rider.. commuter... but i would like to have an XC bike... im drooling like crazy over a Kona Coilair with crazy mods..

    heres the bike specs....size - m
    WHELLS : SUNRIM ALL MOUNTAIN RIM FRONT AND REAR
    FRONT AND REAR HUB: FRONT: SHIMANO REAR: CHRIS KING( I GOT THIS AROUND $450...)
    BRAKE : HOPE MOTO (FRONT AND REAR) (LOT OF POWER AND REALLY NICE CONTROLL BOTH MASTER CYLINDER ARE NEW)
    REAR D: SRAM X5 SHIFT X5 (9SPEED)
    CRANK : RACE FACE
    FORK : MARZZOCHI 66 RC 3( I REDUCED SIZE 180 TO 160 PERFORMED BY MARZZOCHI )
    REAR SHOCK : FOX DHX 5.0 ( REBUILT BY SUSPENSION WORX 3MONTH AGO.)
    PEDAL: STRAIT LINE ($ AROUND 130)
    HEAD SET: CRANK BROTHERS DH SET
    STEM : THOMSON Thomson Elite X4 MTB Stem ONE POINT FIVE
    GRIP : ODI AND BAR END : HOPE
    SEAT : FIZZICK
    CLAMP : HOPE


    I CHANGED ALL BUSHING AND BERING FRAME HAS ABSOLUTLY NO PLAY


    is this a good bike for someone that has to do a LOT of uphill asphalt riding? what do you recommend? what are those Diamondbacks like???

    someone help me out!

  12. #12
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    The CoilAir is not an XC bike.

    Are you planning to ride off-road? Is the uphill asphalt riding you shuttling downhill trails? Or is it your main riding? It's more about what you want to do than the spec. list.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    The CoilAir is not an XC bike.

    Are you planning to ride off-road? Is the uphill asphalt riding you shuttling downhill trails? Or is it your main riding? It's more about what you want to do than the spec. list.
    not really planning to do a lot of downhill... mostly cross country and asphalt riding....and going uphills... but i dont want a commuter bike and i love the look of full suspension.... i know i dont need it.. but im girly and i want a bike that i also like the looks of, and i've fallen in love with Kona bikes...

    with the "magic link" does that mean, yeah i can do XC and uphill if i just lift the seat higher?

    i know NOTHING about bikes... all i know is i want full suspension so i can beat it up when i want to and also be able to ride it to work..

  14. #14
    Some Dude
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    I got a 2010 Hardrock Disc 29er off CL about a month ago. Paid $400, it's in good shape. I like it. I think it's a decent entry level bike. I have only really upgraded the pedals to clipless and got some ODI lock on grips. I'm amazed at how much some of these FS bikes cost. I can't imagine paying so much for a bike. Then again, I find myself constantly drooling over them...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miss_adventure View Post
    not really planning to do a lot of downhill... mostly cross country and asphalt riding....and going uphills... but i dont want a commuter bike and i love the look of full suspension.... i know i dont need it.. but im girly and i want a bike that i also like the looks of, and i've fallen in love with Kona bikes...

    with the "magic link" does that mean, yeah i can do XC and uphill if i just lift the seat higher?

    i know NOTHING about bikes... all i know is i want full suspension so i can beat it up when i want to and also be able to ride it to work..
    If you want full suspension and you can pay for it, whatever.

    Look at these bikes as something that's going to be better at XC, and suck less on pavement.

    http://www.konaworld.com/platform.cfm?content=xcdual
    http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=hei_hei_lisa

    "Magic Link" just means they changed something about the suspension and think it might sell a few bikes. Many terms related to full suspension bikes are essentially meaningless.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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