1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    162

    Inserting Shifter Housing Into the "Hole"

    Hi guys,

    please disregard the awkward title. My bike came with the shifter housing not inserted through the "hole" to secure the housing down. Can I just loosen the barrel adjuster on my shifter and insert it thru the hole? Or is there a specific way of doing it?

    I have Shimano SL-M660 SLX.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    rebmem rbtm
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,123
    Post a photo.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,405
    The housing needs to be cut square and the inner needs to be "de-burred". You will need a housing end cap on the end.
    Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog Cutting Cable Housing
    Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog Shift Levers (shifters)

  4. #4
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,026
    Taking off the barrel adjuster won't get you anything as you'll still need to thread it through the hole behind the barrel. A picture would be very helpful.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  5. #5
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    14,107
    I'm not sure I understand your question...

    The housings are held in place by cable tension. Without that, they can pull right out of the barrel adjuster and stops. So I'm not clear that anything is even wrong...
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    162
    I'll post a picture when I get home.

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    I'm not sure I understand your question...

    The housings are held in place by cable tension. Without that, they can pull right out of the barrel adjuster and stops. So I'm not clear that anything is even wrong...
    I'm not sure if housing is the correct terminology here, basically it's the black hose that covers the wire.

    The "hole" i'm referring to is the one on the frame that secures the wire so that it doesn't move around as you ride the bike. You basically allow the wire to go thru the hole so the wire is secured to the frame.

    Right now, the wire did not go thru the hole, so it's moving around as I ride. It's going from the derailleur directly to the shifter.

  7. #7
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,026
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    I'll post a picture when I get home.



    I'm not sure if housing is the correct terminology here, basically it's the black hose that covers the wire.

    The "hole" i'm referring to is the one on the frame that secures the wire so that it doesn't move around as you ride the bike. You basically allow the wire to go thru the hole so the wire is secured to the frame.

    Right now, the wire did not go thru the hole, so it's moving around as I ride. It's going from the derailleur directly to the shifter.
    I think what you're referring to is a cable stop. Maybe I should wait for pictures, but is there a slot on the cable stop?
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  8. #8
    Go Speed Racer
    Reputation: mtbdennis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,194
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    I'll post a picture when I get home.



    I'm not sure if housing is the correct terminology here, basically it's the black hose that covers the wire.

    The "hole" i'm referring to is the one on the frame that secures the wire so that it doesn't move around as you ride the bike. You basically allow the wire to go thru the hole so the wire is secured to the frame.

    Right now, the wire did not go thru the hole, so it's moving around as I ride. It's going from the derailleur directly to the shifter.
    In this case I think a picture would be worth well over 1000 words.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,037
    The suspense is killing me.


  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,826
    Sounds like you've got a full length housing (ie - the black outer cover goes all the way from the shifter to the derailleur) that wasn't threaded through the routing guides on the frame. Those guides come in a couple different flavors - slotted, meant for a set up necessary when the black housing isn't continuous and the inner cable is exposed for certain segments of it's run, and un-slotted, where the housing is supposed to be fed through them before the final attachment to the derailleur is made.

    Easiest fix is zip tie the housing to the frame following roughly the same routing it would end up in if you fed it through the guides. You can use the guides as handy attachment points for the zip ties. Other option is to loosen the pinch bolt on the derailleur so the cable is detached from it, feed it through the guides, then reattach to the derailleur. This will require some know-how with regard to setting and adjusting the proper cable tension for clean shifting. I'd go with zip-ties myself.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by slapheadmofo View Post
    ...

    Yep that's exactly what i'm talking about. It's actually not the derailleur cable.. It's the brake hose... If I use allen key to loosen the brake hose from the caliper end so that I can route it thru the guide, would I introduce air into the hose and thus need to re-bleed?


  12. #12
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,026
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    Yep that's exactly what i'm talking about. It's actually not the derailleur cable.. It's the brake hose... If I use allen key to loosen the brake hose from the caliper end so that I can route it thru the guide, would I introduce air into the hose and thus need to re-bleed?

    Not a great picture but take that plastic clip off (because it's probably broken like they all are) which is next to the rubber bumper and run a zip tie through the little tunnel which I assume is on the cable stop cluster.

    Should look something like this: Universal Cycles -- Problem Solvers Stick Ons Cable Guide only not stick-on.

    What's up with that crack looking silver line? That's not a crack right? Just a scratch or dirt, I hope.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    962
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    Yep that's exactly what i'm talking about. It's actually not the derailleur cable.. It's the brake hose... If I use allen key to loosen the brake hose from the caliper end so that I can route it thru the guide, would I introduce air into the hose and thus need to re-bleed?
    http://oi41.tinypic.com/30kzz3d.jpg
    I dont see anything out of place in that picture.. Can you see the problem in the picture? and there is a chance if you disconnect a hydraulic brake like you may introduce air into the system..

    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum View Post
    Not a great picture but take that plastic clip off (because it's probably broken like they all are) which is next to the rubber bumper and run a zip tie through the little tunnel which I assume is on the cable stop cluster.

    Should look something like this: Universal Cycles -- Problem Solvers Stick Ons Cable Guide only not stick-on.

    What's up with that crack looking silver line? That's not a crack right? Just a scratch or dirt, I hope.
    That "crack" looks like the edges of decals to me, or possibly clear frame saver decals... you can see one on the other side of the tube too.
    Put a mountain biker in a room with 2 bowling balls and we'll break one and lose the other - GelatiCruiser

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    162
    It's helicopter tape to protect the frame

    Off topic:
    I'm trying to release some excessive brake fluid because the pistons can't be pushed back enough. Is there any way I can do it without introducing air back into the system without a bleed kit?

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,037
    The brake line is running through the guide. So what hole are you talking about?

    You will not be able to disconnect the hydraulic line and reroute it, unless you are prepared to bleed or at least have fresh fluid on hand and know how to top off and eliminate air (which is pretty much the same as bleeding it).

  16. #16
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    14,107
    Okay, now I'm even more confused.

    So you think there's something wrong with the routing of your shifter cables or your brake lines?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,037
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Okay, now I'm even more confused.

    So you think there's something wrong with the routing of your shifter cables or your brake lines?
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    . It's actually not the derailleur cable.. It's the brake hose...
    I need at least 3 characters A,B,C

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    The brake line is running through the guide. So what hole are you talking about?

    You will not be able to disconnect the hydraulic line and reroute it, unless you are prepared to bleed or at least have fresh fluid on hand and know how to top off and eliminate air (which is pretty much the same as bleeding it).
    There's 2 plastic guides on the frame, I only showed the one that the brake line ran through. I didn't take a photo of the empty guide without the brake lines through it.

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Okay, now I'm even more confused.

    So you think there's something wrong with the routing of your shifter cables or your brake lines?
    Sorry, it was the brake line, not shifter.

    --------------------------------------------

    I'll just use zip ties for now until I have to bleed the brakes, then I'll route the brake lines through the guide.

    Can you guys help me answer a question in another thread that I started?

    I'd like to know: if I unscrew the brake bleed port on the brake levers to let some excessive brake fluid out without having introducing air into the system?

    Someone in another thread mentioned that as long as the master cylinder is above the caliper, air won't get in? Another member also said to apply constant slow pressure to the brake lever, and air won't travel in. If I let go of the lever, air will go in.

    If these 2 are true, then it'd be safe to remove the bleed port to let out some brake fluid right?

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: faceplant72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    284
    Brake lines:
    Go read the instructions (at least twice ) on how to bleed your model of brakes before you even think about breaking your brake line.

    BTW I have no problem with the little plastic clips just don't use anything sharp to pry them open and expect them to fly across the room

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    962
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    There's 2 plastic guides on the frame, I only showed the one that the brake line ran through. I didn't take a photo of the empty guide without the brake lines through it.


    If its just the brake line not going through the little plastic guide.. then all you have to do is simply unclip the plastic guide put the hose in place and reclip the retainer...
    Put a mountain biker in a room with 2 bowling balls and we'll break one and lose the other - GelatiCruiser

  21. #21
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,026
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    I'll just use zip ties for now until I have to bleed the brakes, then I'll route the brake lines through the guide.
    I'm fairly confused still; the presence of that little clip means that the guides on your bike can accept either those little clips for the brake line or zip ties. I prefer zip ties because I always seem to break the clips at inopportune times, but either one will work. Where is it that you need to "thread" the line through a guide?

    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    Can you guys help me answer a question in another thread that I started?

    I'd like to know: if I unscrew the brake bleed port on the brake levers to let some excessive brake fluid out without having introducing air into the system?

    Someone in another thread mentioned that as long as the master cylinder is above the caliper, air won't get in? Another member also said to apply constant slow pressure to the brake lever, and air won't travel in. If I let go of the lever, air will go in.

    If these 2 are true, then it'd be safe to remove the bleed port to let out some brake fluid right?
    Why in the world do you want to let fluid out? What is the problem you're trying to fix? Almost all brake problems can be solved in ways that don't involve opening the system. Also, what brakes do you have?
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,037
    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum View Post
    I'm fairly confused still; the presence of that little clip means that the guides on your bike can accept either those little clips for the brake line or zip ties. I prefer zip ties because I always seem to break the clips at inopportune times, but either one will work. Where is it that you need to "thread" the line through a guide?
    He must not realize that the clip is removable.



    Why in the world do you want to let fluid out? What is the problem you're trying to fix? Almost all brake problems can be solved in ways that don't involve opening the system. Also, what brakes do you have?
    Agree. The system must be full of fluid. if its not full, then there will be air in it. You don't adjust the brakes by varying the amount of fluid.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,405
    Wow, every one of the OP's posts turns into a can of worms.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    162
    Why in the world do you want to let fluid out? What is the problem you're trying to fix? Almost all brake problems can be solved in ways that don't involve opening the system. Also, what brakes do you have?[/QUOTE]

    I have brand new Avid Elixir 3's, and the rear brake pads are rubbing the rotor constantly (not a matter of truing rotor). Other members suggested that there might be excessive brake fluid inside, and letting some fluid out would allow the pistons to be pushed back since I can't seem to get the pistons to sit completely flush with the caliper.

    Here's the thread I started about the problem

  25. #25
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,026
    Quote Originally Posted by BobaX View Post
    Why in the world do you want to let fluid out? What is the problem you're trying to fix? Almost all brake problems can be solved in ways that don't involve opening the system. Also, what brakes do you have?

    I have brand new Avid Elixir 3's, and the rear brake pads are rubbing the rotor constantly (not a matter of truing rotor). Other members suggested that there might be excessive brake fluid inside, and letting some fluid out would allow the pistons to be pushed back since I can't seem to get the pistons to sit completely flush with the caliper.

    Here's the thread I started about the problem
    Looks like that thread is handling things pretty well. I think we can drop it over here.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

Similar Threads

  1. Light "click" or "snap" or "clunk" when pressing down hard on pedals
    By VFXterra in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-14-2013, 08:08 PM
  2. Replies: 33
    Last Post: 03-27-2013, 10:09 PM
  3. Can I run an SRAM "exact actuation" front derailleur with a Shimano shifter?
    By ljsmith in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-17-2012, 09:49 AM
  4. Thumb Shifter "Play" or slop.
    By mhickey79 in forum Vintage, Retro, Classic
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-20-2012, 10:50 AM
  5. Shimano 10 Speed Shifter "Mode Converter" Switch
    By cjn1014 in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 02-07-2012, 11:22 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •