1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    how to tell if stem and seatpost clamp are carbon friendly?

    Hi pretty much what the tittle say.
    I ordered a new stem to use on a carbon ec70 bar but I read some stem are not carbon friendly.
    Also same for the saddle as I have a carbon rail saddle coming my way. Seat post ea70 offset.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    It'll work, at least I've never had any issues with alloy stems and a carbon bar, just don't over tighten (aka use a torque wrench, you need inch pound one),also the brake lever/shifter mounts too. There is also some type of compound to put on the parts like anti-seize but for carbon.

  3. #3
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    Regarding the seatpost clamp....
    I'm about to get my first carbon MTB in a few days and the bike comes with a QR-type clamp. I definitely want to get a bolted seatpost collar/clamp so I can be sure of the torque. A couple things I've read which I'm not sure of (so please chime in)
    1) Should the clamp break be 180 degrees from the frame notch?
    2) I've read that 'ovalized' clamps are more carbon-friendly. Any merit to this?
    3) For now the application will be AL seatpost/CF frame? Carbon paste or grease?

    Thanks
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  4. #4
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    I use the Finish Line carbon friction paste for both carbon/carbon and carbon/AL interfaces. The stuff really works very well. It locks things together way before the torque limit is met. I own a road bike with an inverted carbon seat tube (seat tube is male and post is female). So, if you over-tighten the seat post clamp you are more likely to crack the frame rather than just the post. Consequently, I am pretty picky about not over-tightening.

    I have never worried about AL-carbon interfaces and compatibility. I'd definitely make sure that the AL is smooth and that documentation doesn't explicitly state not to use with carbon components. But beyond that I would not worry about it.

  5. #5
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    how to tell if stem and seatpost clamp are carbon friendly?

    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    I use the Finish Line carbon friction paste for both carbon/carbon and carbon/AL interfaces. The stuff really works very well. It locks things together way before the torque limit is met. I own a road bike with an inverted carbon seat tube (seat tube is male and post is female). So, if you over-tighten the seat post clamp you are more likely to crack the frame rather than just the post. Consequently, I am pretty picky about not over-tightening.

    I have never worried about AL-carbon interfaces and compatibility. I'd definitely make sure that the AL is smooth and that documentation doesn't explicitly state not to use with carbon components. But beyond that I would not worry about it.
    Great info! Thank you. I ordered Finish Line carbon paste because of the good reviews and a Fourier (wide) 2-bolt seat post clamp. Probably over-thinking this (that's what engineers do) but by using a wide clamp, I can spread the clamp forces over a larger surface area, getting the same effect with less torque. I'm 61" 200lbs fwiw.
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