1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    How much would you pay for this?

    Below is quoted from listing


    I have a specialized hard rock, about 4 years old for sale. Its only been off roading once and its been on 2 long distance (40 mile) rides, all the other millage is around town. I LITERALLY just got it a tune up. I don't really want to sell this bike, I love it that much and it has really been great to me, however I just bought a Specialized Allez and don't have room for both.

    The price is $300 non- neg. I have an additional handle bar that I will throw in as well as a second set of tires, one for the road, on for the trails.

    This is a great bike and I would really love for someone else to enjoy it as much as I did.

    Damage: a couple of scratches on the handle bars from resting it upside down as to not damage the derailer, and minor, minor, minor scratches on the body, nothing worth noting.

    serious email responses only please, I work three jobs and dont have time for people who jsut want to chat (wierd/bad experience selling a guitar on CL once) Look forward to hearing from you.

    Frame & Fork
    Frame Construction TIG-welded
    Frame Tubing Material Specialized ORE A1 Aluminum
    Fork Brand & Model RST Gila Plus T7, 100mm
    Fork Material Steel/aluminum, single crown

    Components
    Component Group Mountain Mix
    Brakeset Tektro V-brake brakes, Shimano EF-50 levers
    Shift Levers Shimano EF-50
    Front Derailleur Shimano Acera
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera
    Crankset TruVativ ISO Flow 3.0, 22/32/42 teeth
    Pedals Steel cage, plastic body
    Bottom Bracket TruVativ Power Spline, 113mm spindle
    BB Shell Width 68mm
    Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
    Chain Shimano CN-HG50
    Seatpost Alloy micro adjust, 30.9mm diameter
    Saddle Specialized Body Geometry ATB
    Handlebar Alloy riser
    Handlebar Extensions Not included
    Handlebar Stem Specialized
    Headset 1 1/8" threadless

    Wheels
    Hubs Front: Specialized, Rear: Shimano FH-RM30L
    Rims Specialized/Alex HR 26, 36-hole
    Tires 26 x 2.10" Specialized Resolution
    Spoke Brand Stainless steel, 14ga. (2.0mm) straight gauge
    Spoke Nipples Unspecified





    So how much would you do?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How much would you pay for this?-5i55g95jf3ia3f23j9c7k36e57e77363f17c1-1-.jpg  


  2. #2
    Single(Pivot)and Happy
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    This bike is a 2007 and sold at retail for around $425-475. The fork is very low end and the bike would handle better with a quality rigid fork, IMO.

    Brakes are low tier, blah, blah, blah.

    If pristine, I would say $200, maybe $225.

    Keep saving your hard earned cash. Ride whatever you have now, build your fitness and strength. Save whatever you can each month and keep riding. When you have $500-$700 you will then have more knowledge of what you really need in a bike along with the means to purchase a bike that will not need to constantly be tuned, replace parts that fail, etc.

    If you ride trails, not paths but trails, and get seriously into mountain biking, one must have confidence in their equipment. One must take care of their equipment. You head out on a 30+ mile ride you don't want to be worrying if your $35 rear derailleur is up for the task. You don't want to be pedalling 2lb rims. Sure, people will chime in and state they ride everywhere and everything on their $300 bike. I say good for them. You can do much better and enjoy a much better quality experience with proper gear. You don't need to spend thousands.
    The suspension of your bike sucks if it's different than mine. Really. It sucks. Big time.

  3. #3
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    It's the lowest end Specialized MTB from their 2007 line.

    It has inexpensive components and an unknown five years of usage. If it looked ~really ~ good in person I might be willing to go to a max of $250 just because it has the extra tires and bar.

    Without those I'd max the offer at $230.

    If it looked less than perfect then probably $180-200 would be all its worth.
    ~ 2011 GT Avalanche 2.0
    ~ 1993 Diamondback Topanga
    ~ 2012 Diamondback Overdrive Expert

  4. #4
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    I picked up an older hardrock with a RS Dart 3 for the wife as a knock about town and some simple trails with the kids for $200, personally I think $300 may be a little expensive.
    I disagree, they are not bad bikes, they are absolutely fit for purpose, my wife is never going to be challenging Emily Batty, so no point spending thousands. I would much rather spend $200 on second hand hardrock than $200 on a new low end bike.

  5. #5
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    This is perilously close to spam. Did you pay for a classified ad on mtbr?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luclin999 View Post
    It's the lowest end Specialized MTB from their 2007 line.

    It has inexpensive components and an unknown five years of usage. If it looked ~really ~ good in person I might be willing to go to a max of $250 just because it has the extra tires and bar.

    Without those I'd max the offer at $230.

    If it looked less than perfect then probably $180-200 would be all its worth.
    Yes, but it was LITERALLY just tuned up whereas most bikes are figuratively tuned up. I'd say that makes it worth an extra $100.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bloodninja View Post
    Yes, but it was LITERALLY just tuned up whereas most bikes are figuratively tuned up. I'd say that makes it worth an extra $100.
    I LITERALLY hope that is sarcasm, rather than figurative sarcasm..........

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by whodaphuck View Post
    This is perilously close to spam. Did you pay for a classified ad on mtbr?
    Im not the one selling it, im just trying to get an idea of the kind of prices I should be paying for stuff like this.

  9. #9
    Single(Pivot)and Happy
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    Don't worry about the "spam" comment. Some of us know you have posted in other threads and are looking at potential bikes.

    Pass on this one. Read my post above.
    The suspension of your bike sucks if it's different than mine. Really. It sucks. Big time.

  10. #10
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by propane1909 View Post
    Im not the one selling it, im just trying to get an idea of the kind of prices I should be paying for stuff like this.
    My bad, misunderstood the post.

    You should pass on this bike, literally and figuratively.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the advice everyone. I recently came across this listing. Im probably not going to purchase but it still peaked my interest. What value would you give it?


    Giant AC-2

    Bicycle Type Mountain bike, front & rear suspension
    MSRP (new) $2,200.00
    Frame Construction TIG-welded
    Frame Tubing Material Aluxx SL aluminum
    Fork Brand & Model Rock Shox Psylo XC, 3.00"-5.00" adjustable travel
    Fork Material Aluminum/magnesium, single crown
    Rear Shock Answer Manitou Swinger, 5.50" - 6.50" adjustable travel
    Component Group Mountain Mix
    Brakeset Hayes Hydraulic Disc brakes, Hayes Hydraulic Disc levers
    Shift Levers Shimano Deore LX RapidFire SL
    Front Derailleur Shimano Deore XT, top-pull/clamp-on 35.0mm
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore XT SGS
    Crankset Race Face Prodigy DH, 22/32/44 teeth
    Pedals Shimano PD-M424 SPD
    Bottom Bracket Race Face ISIS SRX, 113mm spindle
    BB Shell Width 68mm American
    Rear Cogs 9-speed, 11 - 34 teeth
    Chain Shimano CN-HG53, 1/2 x 3/32"
    Seatpost Titec DH, 27.2mm diameter
    Saddle WTB Speed V
    Handlebar Titec Ringleader
    Handlebar Extensions Not included
    Handlebar Stem Titec Big AL
    Headset 1 1/8" threadless FSA integrated
    Hubs Front: aluminum disc, 20mm axle, Rear: Shimano Deore XT
    Rims Sun Rims Rhyno Lite XL, 36-hole
    Tires 26 x 2.30" Hutchinson Octopuss
    Spoke Brand DT stainless steel, 14ga. (2.0mm) straight gauge
    Spoke Nipples Brass nipples
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How much would you pay for this?-5n55k25ha3g13k83icc7s0b5b8a0b058e16ec.jpg  


  12. #12
    Single(Pivot)and Happy
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    The AC2 is a 2003, so your looking at a 10 year old bike. How recent is the picture?

    Honestly, I do not know how anyone can give an estimate of value based on a photo. Think of purchasing a car. A picture of a waxed car at the correct angle and in proper light will look good. Most people do not purchase cars to just look at. You can understand where this is going.

    If all the parts are original, the drivetrain will need to be replaced. Unless the bike was never used. Shock and fork will require at the very least an oil/seal change, so factor these expenses into the budget. Cockpit is a personal choice but fitment is mandatory. Stem/handlebars and grips most likely will need replacement to properly fit you and for your comfort. Factor this into your budget.

    It doesn't hurt to check out the bike. It also seems you are pulling specs from bikepedia. A lot of times parts are swapped out, usually for the better. Always check.

    Sorry, no can do on an estimate without actually riding the bike.
    The suspension of your bike sucks if it's different than mine. Really. It sucks. Big time.

  13. #13
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    I have an '07 Hardrock. Actually a pretty nice frame. I've chosen not to find out what it weighs. The parts pick on mine blew, and it was a couple levels above the one that you're looking at.

    I'd say that the things that are valuable about that bike, if true, are that it goes, stops and shifts, can take disc brakes (at significant expense, you'd need new wheels to do it) if you want to do it later, and can take a real suspension fork (also pretty expensive.)

    So, maybe worth more than a mid-90s rigid with Vs. Which would be a $100 bike. $150? It's probably going to be too much trouble to get the seller to meet you on price, at least until/unless he re-lists it for a better number.

    Feel bad for the seller. The three jobs must all suck. Makes me glad for the opportunities I've had. And/or my willingness to climb ladders and swing a Crescent wrench.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  14. #14
    My bike is rusty..
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    I'd buy it for $100

  15. #15
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    i bought that bike, the hardrock, for 75 bucks 2 years ago. it was an 05 pro disc. different fork, dart 3. i thought that was a really good deal. 300 for yours? not so much. i'd rather spend that money on a brand new bikesdirect 450ht, which is basically an upgraded component set of the new hardrock, so with that in mind, yeah, no. 300 for a used crap bike, or 300 for a brand new less than crap bike..

  16. #16
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    i see that you live in bayshore.. i saw your add i live in northport. i'd give you 100 for it, mainly because i have little use for it... but it'd be cool to have a decent spare loaner bike. my 20 year old trek isn't cutting it anymore needs more repairs than its worth.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ou2mame View Post
    i see that you live in bayshore.. i saw your add i live in northport. i'd give you 100 for it, mainly because i have little use for it... but it'd be cool to have a decent spare loaner bike. my 20 year old trek isn't cutting it anymore needs more repairs than its worth.

    The OP is not selling a bike.


    He is looking to purchase a bike.

    He saw the ad for the Hardrock posted above on CL and is asking if the bike is worth what the seller is asking for it.

    The consensus is no, it is not.
    ~ 2011 GT Avalanche 2.0
    ~ 1993 Diamondback Topanga
    ~ 2012 Diamondback Overdrive Expert

  18. #18
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    oh lol.. i should get my eyes checked. either way, yeah, its not worth 300. the 450ht though, if you're looking at used in that price range, i'd consider new.

  19. #19
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    Maybe we should tell the OP that the best bike to buy is the best bike you can afford valuewise (and also taking into account fit).

    Just wondering, don't Americans use eBay?
    My account had previous problems that lasted over 6 months. I couldn't post, etc. This is my new account.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by icalebkim1 View Post
    Just wondering, don't Americans use eBay?
    They do. I use it all the time but the bike selection is pretty limited and rather overpriced. At least I think so.

  21. #21
    Single(Pivot)and Happy
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    What's your budget? You may not want to hear this, but whatever your current budget is, if you wait four months and save each month you may be in the position to purchase a new mid-level 2012 model being blown out to make room for 2013 models.

    If you live in an area where you cannot ride year around, this decision should not be hard. If you have to hang your bike up for a couple months, you will not be riding anyways so save money and you will be stoked come next spring. If you have year around riding, it just takes more discipline and focus on the goal.
    The suspension of your bike sucks if it's different than mine. Really. It sucks. Big time.

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