1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    how much will u pay for the gas?

    i have a 34lb hardtail bike and i wanna use it as commute bike also... should i put 3rd ring and put lighter tires? oh.. is it possible to put a huge road bike ring on my bike? or just buy a cheap commute bike? or... just ask LBS?!?!?

  2. #2
    El Pollo Diablo
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    swapping a bashguard for a big ring is easy as hell.
    but, If you've got money to burn, grabbing a cheap commuter bike may be the best, since it requires no compromises on the part of your HT.

  3. #3
    El Pollo Diablo
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    woo, more doubleposts, someone's asleep at the wheel.

  4. #4
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    I commute on a XC hardtail with regular 42 teeth big ring. Never heard of putting road ring(52 teeth if my memory still serves me) on a mountain bike. I guess, your bike is AM if not FR - judging by the weight and bashguard. So for commuting you possibly will want to change the riding position to more bent forward. It is possible to do by moving the saddle back to the end and/or installing barends. Lighter tires(slick or semislick) will be helpful, of course.
    As for getting another bike for commuting, it is a good idea - unless the bike is too cheap. My previous experience of commuting on no-name mountain bikes(actually, cheap commuter bikes) proves that we are not wealthy enough to buy cheap. Parts break down very often, warranty service non-existent and so on.

  5. #5
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    i run a hybrid built off a 90's Gary Fisher frame with LBS junker wheels, 1.5" semislicks, 42t single front and 12-28 7-speed rear. Cost me like 120 bucks to build and that included a sprocket and BB tool from Nashbar. Top speed is great and you can still spin in low gear alright - this town is notoriously hilly and I haven't had to walk a hill yet. run a solid fork, a lockout shock fork or crank your preload when you street it, in that order of preference.

    in all honesty big ring and 12 teeth is fast as heck on city streets, if you need more top speed go to a 11t on the smallest sprocket - that's a 9% taller ratio and is MUCH easier to wrangle than a 46 or 52 on the front.

  6. #6
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    i decided to put a bigger chain ring and buy lite tires.... so i bought kenda kozmik lite 395g and salsa 38t 104 ring online but now i think 38t is too big that i have to reposition the front deraillur (sp?) higher?

  7. #7
    1.21 Jigowatts!
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjishikawa
    i decided to put a bigger chain ring and buy lite tires.... so i bought kenda kozmik lite 395g and salsa 38t 104 ring online but now i think 38t is too big that i have to reposition the front deraillur (sp?) higher?
    What were your past tires and their weight?
    '07 Giant Anthem 2
    '07 Giant Yukon
    '95 Diamondback WCF Vertex

  8. #8
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    kenda nevegal front and kenda blue groove rear both 2.3....i think they weigh about 850g....

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