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  1. #1
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    Help with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please

    Just picked up a 2013 Rumblefish (base model) and I'm really interested in the simplest/cheapest conversion to 1X10 gearing. I have done a little reading on here and I certainly understand the concept, as well as pros and cons. I just need a little help with compatibility and which parts and tools I will need. Here is what I have now:

    SRAM S1000 crankset with 44/33/22 rings
    SRAM PG-1030 cassette 11-36
    SRAM X7 rear derailleur

    I plan to keep the cassette and RD but I'm just really stuck on tearing into the cranks and pulling the front rings apart and all that. Will my 33 tooth middle ring bolt right back on the cranks and I'm good to go? I also plan to get a chain guide for the front. Am I just short a couple tools and then its a matter of labor? Anything helps, cheers.

  2. #2
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    The S1000 is an OEM part but I think it's got similar specs as x7 or x9. You should be able to pull the crankset with only a large allen wrench (8mm I think). You can then remove the rings from the spider (need another differently sized allen wrench). You can experiment if you can attach the middle ring with bolts to the spider and see what your chain line would look like. It might work. Or you might want to replace the big ring with a bash guard to get a better chain line (and ring protection). Unless someone has done it with that exact crankset, it's hard to know. But experimenting costs you nothing...
    When you put things back together permanently use grease on the crankset bolt and Loctite on the spider bolts.


    Personally, I have taken a 2 ring x9 crankset and removed the spider and the rings and replaced with a spider less ring. Worked for me without any spacers or other adjustments.

    If you are happy with a setup then you'll want to shorten your chain and remove your front derailleur and shifter.

    Ultimately, you'll want to replace your rear derailleur with a short cage version. And while you are at it you'll want to get a clutch derailleur in which case you probably will be able to get rid of the chain guide.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
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    Ok great information, thanks. I also have a set of race face dues x cranks on my hard tail but the middle ring is a bit worn. I'm wondering if I can hack them together to create the best combo? Maybe the SRAM crank is lighter and more durable to begin with?

  4. #4
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    No idea regarding the race face crank. To be able to fit it has to be made for the same type of bottom bracket. But the rings might work. Just take off the S1000 and have a look see.

    Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Ok I was able to get started taking the crank arms off with my multi tool but I think I need a ratcheted crank puller to remove the inner cap. Also, I can' find out which BB the S1000 uses? is it noticeable to the naked eye? The website says it uses a GBX but I think that is just some fancy technology from SRAM, not a size. I also can't find a weight for it so I can't compare it to the 839g advertised weight of the RF (which includes the BB but I hopefully will not retain). I guess I'm still unsure if it is compatible and if I will see any weight savings for my labor.

  6. #6
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    i highly recommend a 1x n/w specific chain ring. DON'T use a pinned and ramped ring for 1x & your BCD is 104

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    i highly recommend a 1x n/w specific chain ring. DON'T use a pinned and ramped ring for 1x & your BCD is 104
    I appreciate the feedback, but I don't understand what those acronyms mean? Obviously they are important so I'd like to know what they are so I can get the correct parts. thanks.

  8. #8
    squish, squish in da fish
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    n/w=narrow/wide, where the teeth of the ring are made to sit snuggly in your narrow and wide links of the chain. if you look at your current ring the teeth are all the same thickness.

    pinned and ramped - are the little silver pin put into the ring to help lift the chain off and onto the next ring. cutouts on the back of the ring are the ramps which also help in shifting. also the tooth profile of a shifty ring is asymmetrical to help the chain along.

    BCD - bolt center diameter


    Race Face Single Narrow Wide Chainring > Components > Drivetrain > Chainrings | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    Race Face Turbine 10 Speed Chainring > Components > Drivetrain > Chainrings | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by coling View Post
    Ok I was able to get started taking the crank arms off with my multi tool but I think I need a ratcheted crank puller to remove the inner cap. Also, I can' find out which BB the S1000 uses? is it noticeable to the naked eye? The website says it uses a GBX but I think that is just some fancy technology from SRAM, not a size. I also can't find a weight for it so I can't compare it to the 839g advertised weight of the RF (which includes the BB but I hopefully will not retain). I guess I'm still unsure if it is compatible and if I will see any weight savings for my labor.
    You may want to go on the parktools website for more specific help and pictures that help you identify components. Verify that your bottom bracket is a GXP and verify that the new crankset is GXP.

    If your crank is out then you are fine. It's very likely a GXP style crank and the bottom bracket that remains in your frame is a GXP type BB. There is no need for you to remove the BB unless there is something wrong with it. If it is a GXP threaded BB then you simply need a BB wrench which fits over the "dimples" of the cups to remove it. GXP BBs are standard for two types of frame BB dimensions and come with a spacer to accommodate both. If you remove the BB you simply reassemble with same components of the new BB (assuming you replace it). If it is a press-fit BB then you need a puller and a press for reassembly. I'd recommend going to the lbs and have them replace the BB in that case.

  10. #10
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    As far as I can tell from Google, your bike has a press fit bottom bracket. And it has a 104 BCD on the crankset.

  11. #11
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    Really great, help thanks everyone. I'm running to Performance Bike at lunch to pick up a few things and hopefully tear into this beast tonight. I'll post updates.

  12. #12
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    I picked up this starter kit at lunch time. I understand not all of the tools are the highest quality but it should get me off and running for a while and I can replace a few tools as I see fit. I looked through it for a bit and I'm sort of stumped how to use the crank puller with instructions. I guess i'll have to mess around with it this afternoon. Call me crazy but it seems like almost every set of cranks has a different-looking way they are fastened together..

  13. #13
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    Help with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgHelp with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgHelp with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgAll done! First, thanks to those who steered me in the right direction. I will say this is about the most invasive surgery I've ever done on a bike but it actually went really well. Completely boosted my confidence.

    My LBS stocked them so I went with the Raceface 32 tooth narrow/wide chain ring and the SS specific steel bolts. This is not a how-to write up so I will just commence with pictures in order. Took about 2 hours going slow, definitely shaved weight, and it shifts like nothing ever changed.

  14. #14
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    Help with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgHelp with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgHelp with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgHelp with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpg

  15. #15
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    Help with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgHelp with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpgHelp with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpg

    And the last one shows the left side of my handlebar sans shifter!

  16. #16
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    Looking good!

  17. #17
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    I ran a 1 ring up front on my 2014 Xcal 9 love it
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Help with Rumblefish 1X10 conversion please-image.jpg  


  18. #18
    squish, squish in da fish
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    don't forget to size your chain. take chain outta the rear derailleur and wrap the chainring and largest cog in the back (1st gear) and add 2 full links. most chain pins aren't meant to be reused so make sure you have some sort of easy link to install. i've found wipperman links to be the easiest to work with, but any of them will work. oh yeah by the way, good job. feels good to wrench on your own shit, huh?

  19. #19
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    will do, thanks fish. I was wondering that a bit because some folks said to, others said it wasn't necessary. my chain as the quick-link on it so if I drop a couple links I'd hope to re-use those but we'll see.

    I don't have a scale at home, I weighed mine at the shop when I bought it and it was 31.1 lbs. After throwing the parts I took off yesterday in a bag and lifting them up I sincerely believe I lost somewhere around 1 lb or maybe a pinch more. Those stock rings were heavy and the derailleur added quite a bit too!

  20. #20
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    great pics coling. I like the red chainring, they're a little pricey though
    always mad and usually drunk......

  21. #21
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    Yeah they certainly don't give em away... Mine was $45 at the local bike shop and the steel bolts were $8 I think.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by coling View Post
    Yeah they certainly don't give em away... Mine was $45 at the local bike shop and the steel bolts were $8 I think.
    NW chainring.... $45
    Chainring bolts...$8
    Clutch rear derailleur... $50
    Never dropping a chain ever again... Priceless

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