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  1. #1
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    Help me upgrade a 2007 Trek 6000

    I just got a deal on a 2007 Trek 6000 for my nephew. The bike comes equipped with Avid BB5 disc brakes, Deore drivetrain, and a Rockshox Dart 1 fork.

    My first planned upgrade is 1 x 9 conversion with a Race Face narrow wide chainring (cassette is a SRAM PG950 11-34, 9 speed) ...my nephew has told me he only uses the middle chainring anyway. Any suggestions about going with a 30T or 32T chainring? I've heard the 30T Race Face is threaded which will save me purchasing the shorter chainring bolts and will give a kid (still with limited leg strength, some extra climbing ability) - sound reasonable? He rides the local singletrack around Georgia - Rope Mill, Allatoona, Big Creek, Blankets, some of which are quite hilly.

    I've heard awful things about the Rockshox Dart fork. However, it really does not seem that bad to me - maybe a bit springy, but quite comfortable. I'll still likely end up upgrading it if we can find a good deal on an air fork - any chance of getting one for $100 or less....if so which models? In addition, can someone confirm that the Trek 6000 has a 1 1/8" steerer as I could not find this info anywhere. Besides the steerer diameter and wheel fit (26"), are there any other specs of which I should be aware when purchasing a replacement?

    How about other upgrades? Would a wider handle bar make a difference?

  2. #2
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    After reading a post about the hierarchy of budget forks (wattsxxx), I took the bike out for another spin and Wattsxxx is completely right to categorize the Dart 1 as a glorified Pogo Stick...so my priority will be to upgrade the fork asap.

  3. #3
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    If bought online, you can usually get a 32T chainring for about $30-35 plus $5 for new shorter bolts. The 30T one costs $40-45. I'd look at the Sheldon Brown gear calculator to see what he really needs. My gut feeling is that with 11-34T cassette and 26" wheels, a 32T chainring would be fine. He's young after all. He has the power if the hills get that bad.

    For the fork, the dart is OK for gravel and smooth dirt. If you really want to ride trails with it, I'd go straight to an air fork (maybe a coil fork like the rockshox XC32 with a soft spring if the price is right). Just about any used air cartridge fork will work, rockshox, fox, marchozzi, manitou, suntour. As always, you could buy someone else's headache though. Especially if it's been used hard. If he plans on keeping this bike for a while, I'd get something new. If you/he likes to work with their hands, a used one can be rebuilt at home for about $20-30.

    For other upgrades, how big is he? If he's 6', a wider bar will work. If he's 5'4", keep the stock bar. For now, just get it ready to go out and ride.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  4. #4
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    He's 5ft 4 - 5ft 5 and about 110lbs. I can get a used Rockshox XC30 for about $80. My nephew already rides intermediate and some expert trails, so if I can get an air fork for not much more, that will be preferred. a bit higher than my budget, but what do you think about the Suntour Epicons from China that are selling on Ebay for about $180? Are these legit or knockoffs? Can you please suggest some reliable budget air models from the non Rockshox, non suntour brands? thx

  5. #5
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    Any of them are good, but you're looking at a $250 or higher starting price. For an XC30, I'd offer $60 if it's in working condition. If it's brand new condition, maybe $80. You can get them brand new with warranty for about $120 online. Of course, once you get the fork, you'll need to get a softer spring, which costs about $30 or more.

    Sometimes, its worth it get buy once and never look back. I have a recon, and I love it. It's probably one I'd look at getting used also. As mentioned, the rebuild only costs about $30 in parts, and the recon uses steel stanchions. It's a strong fork that resilient to scratches and most wear & tear.

    https://smile.amazon.com/RockShox-Su.../dp/B00V8SASDW
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  6. #6
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    mcbiko, I didn't see anyone else answer this but the 2007 Trek 6000 does have a 1 1/8 steerer. I have the same bike. It's a decent bike as a starter and beyond. I also found I pretty much only used the center chainring. By switching to a single ring you can remove the front DR and shifter.

    I found that the seat/chain stays were too narrow for a 2.4" tire.

  7. #7
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    I'm on the lookout for a cheap Recon or other decent fork - I may even consider a rebuild if I can find a good candidate.

    We managed to fit a 2.35" tire in front without an issue - prefer a wider tire in front compared to rear.

  8. #8
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    I owned a 2007 trek 6000, now my sons. It is a great bike and I dont feel you have to have anything on it. It has Deore shifter and rear mech. The only thing i did was change to hydraulic brakes so he can squeeze it better and have lever adjustment. One other thing i want to do is get wider handlebars for him. I know the dart forks is not great, but honestly, i would just keep it as it is not worth upgrading. When he is ready, he should just upgrade bike after riding for a season or two. Get him appropriate (new) tires which should result in immediate handling results and give him confidence.

  9. #9
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    The 6000 Treks are the lowest level bikes from Trek in that era that have a more performance orientated geometry. The biggest difference being in the top tube length. That makes them a better choice than a 3xxx or 4xxx series bike as a candidate for upgrades.

  10. #10
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    I went with a 30t Race Face narrow wide chainring..I may switch later to a 32t. For the fork, I can get a Manitou MRD R seven for $100. How does this fork compare with the others mentioned earlier in this thread? What should I check for when purchasing this fork - I have no experience with bike forks? Is this fork suitable for intermediate to advanced single track?

    I'm still contemplating getting my nephew on a 29er. I can get a used Scott Aspect for $450...Deore components with Suntour XCR fork. We went out today and he was only about 10 secs slower on my 29er around an approx 1 mile trail with a bunch of switchbacks. He claimed he preferred the feel of his 26", but that is likely because he has been riding 26" for years. The main issue I have with the Trek 6000 is that it's fairly heavy.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcbiko View Post
    For the fork, I can get a Manitou MRD R seven for $100. How does this fork compare with the others mentioned earlier in this thread? What should I check for when purchasing this fork - I have no experience with bike forks? Is this fork suitable for intermediate to advanced single track?
    It's a good fork. I assume it's used? If it is, make sure the stanchions are clean and don't have any score marks. Look for oil leaks, the knobs work. Unfortunately, with a lot of forks, they can look 100% when you look at them, but you'll never know until you put them on the bike and ride. I'd look up on Manitous site what it takes to do a re-build. Make sure you get the year of the fork. Things change. Probably just need an o-ring kit and new wipers.

    https://www.manitoumtb.com/products/forks/r7/
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  12. #12
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    The Manitou is used, but apparently in excellent condition. Its at least a few years old - does $100 sound reasonable even if an o-ring kit is needed? It seems like used 26" fork are more expensive than their 29" or 27.5" counterparts..maybe rarity? The 26" tapered forks also seem to be easier to find and lower cost.

  13. #13
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    In case you haven't thought of it: make sure the steering tube is long enough for your frame if buying used. Measure from the bottom of the head tube to the top of the stem. Subtract around a sixteenth. That will be the minimum that will work.

    Others have posted no problems using a 27.5 fork on a 26 bike.

    The r7 sounds ideal for the rider weight and xc trails you mentioned.

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