1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Headtube Barrings

    As part of my project to have my frame powder coated, I was cleaning the barrings from my head tube in preparation to repack them, and I found lots of metal shavings. I'm assuming I should have the barrings replaced.

    So I don't sound like a complete noob when I go to my local bike shop, what should I ask for? Should I ask for a complete package including new caps for facing my headtube, or just a new set of barrings?

    Thanks in advance for helping a noob out again.

  2. #2
    dru
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    It sounds like you have a headset with loose ball bearings. That style is quite antiquated, and a decent new headset can be had for 30 or 40 dollars.

    You are planning on removing the bearing cups from your frame before powder coating so why not throw a new headset in there?

    There are no 'new caps'? for facing the headtube. That is done by an expensive tool that most shops have. You often don't need to bother with facing your headtube, it depends on how square everyting is at present.
    occasional cyclist

  3. #3
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    The bearing cups were removed by the LBS. I will inquire about a new headset and have it installed after powder coating. Thanks! +1 rep for the fast response!

  4. #4
    dru
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    Make sure that the powder coater avoids getting a bunch of powder inside the headtube where the cups sit. Otherwise the bike shop guys will have to do a bunch of work up to and including reaming the inside if there is a heavy build-up of baked powdercoat.

    A powder coater who's done bikes should already know this.
    occasional cyclist

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dru View Post
    Make sure that the powder coater avoids getting a bunch of powder inside the headtube where the cups sit. Otherwise the bike shop guys will have to do a bunch of work up to and including reaming the inside if there is a heavy build-up of baked powdercoat.

    A powder coater who's done bikes should already know this.
    I would go ahead and pre-tape the headtube, seattube and bottom-bracket - just to be sure
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    I would go ahead and pre-tape the headtube, seattube and bottom-bracket - just to be sure
    I talked to the guy who does the powder coating and he has done bike frames before. When I drop it off I will be sure to explain what gets powder coated and what doesn't. He explained that when I get it back it will be ready for reassembly and no need to machine out any threads.

    Now to decide what color to go with.......

    I can't wait. In a few weeks it will be like a I have a new bike!!!!!

  7. #7
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    I would go with Burnt Orange - that's Tone's's favourite colour!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    I would go with Burnt Orange - that's Tone's's favourite colour!
    Pretty soon everyone except Tone's will have a Burnt Orange bike.

    -S

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    I would go ahead and pre-tape the headtube, seattube and bottom-bracket - just to be sure
    and be sure to use a tape approved for the 400 degrees powder coating reaches....

  10. #10
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    ^^^ untape it before the kiln
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  11. #11
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    With most powder coat processes, it will have to be fully stripped of old paint too. That will be fun! Any place that does powder will have the green high temp mask around, if you try to take it off before you cure it, you'll mess up the coating of powder in places, and some may also run into the spots you want clean as you bake it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Pretty soon everyone except Tone's will have a Burnt Orange bike.

    -S
    everyone and their brothers are talking about this guy Tone's. whats up with that?

  13. #13
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    Sorry no Burnt Orange for this frame.

    I talked to the guy at the powdercoating place and he said he would take care of the places that should not get paint and the frame would be ready for me to assemble when I get it back.

    Just to make sure I've labeled all of the parts that don't get paint, If need be I will get the frame back from him after he media-blasts the frame so I can mask off the spots that don't get paint.

    I hope this works out.

    I will post some before and after pics when the process is done.

  14. #14
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    I went with a dark metal grey. I shot the sh!t with the owner for about half an hour. Turns out that this week seems to be popular for bike paint. I'm the 3rd guy who dropped off a bicycle frame today. I won't get it back until after Christmas because of vaction. I hope to have it all built back up before the 1st of the year. I can't wait.

  15. #15
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    Blast is the best way to strip it for sure. If the media is sand you have to be real careful not to
    remove any of the aluminium. The Dark Grey should look pretty cool. I'm thinking of blasting mine,
    scotch bright/brush it, then shoot clear on the brushed frame. Or gloss black. I can't decide lol.
    Since Giant stopped making the xtc 26" line this year I'll get them back by blasting the name off it.
    lol!

  16. #16
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    They are using glass bead as their media for blasting. They had to test a small spot to see how long it was going to take to strip it clean. The old paint came right off without trouble.

    I cant wait to get it back.

  17. #17
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    it will have to be fully stripped of old paint too.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by robindevo View Post
    it will have to be fully stripped of old paint too.
    switch your viewing to 'linear mode' (not sure why the others exist)
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  19. #19
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    Does one's scroll wheel a malfunction O.o lol

  20. #20
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    I won't be getting it back until after Christmas now. I'm going out of town and they had to order my color in. I will post some pictures when I get it back. Looks like I will have a like-new bike for the new year.

    Next project -- Clean and repack my hub barrings on my front wheel. I'm a little worried about what I may find. I don't think its been done in years....

    Rear hub seems to be sealed and no maintenance required, but I'm still researching it.

    ** Edit **
    Google is a wonderful thing!!
    Found this jem: Hugi Compact Freehub help
    Last edited by p08757; 12-12-2012 at 06:53 AM.

  21. #21
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    If there's 2 nut heads on your axle then it's a loose ball bearing type, super easy to clean. Sealed ones will take some time carfully prying off the rubber seals.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by p08757 View Post
    ...

    Next project -- Clean and repack my hub barrings on my front wheel...
    heh, I just keep picturing you talking about bearings like a pirate
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    heh, I just keep picturing you talking about bearings like a pirate
    I have the darn bike all tore apart now, why the heck not bring all of the parts back to a like new state. On the down side, the more I tare this thing apart the more parts I find wore out. The bike is over 20 years old and probably has well over 10k miles on it.

    I expect to find my cones wore out. I hope the cups are in good shape. I will find out after I get the hub open, but 1st I need to find time to do the job and buy the right size cone wrench.

  24. #24
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    Just got my frame back and it looks like new again!!! Just ordered a Surly 1x1 fork (with removable Canti Pivots and Disk Break Tab). This will come in handy when/if I go to a disk break on the front. This weekend I will start the reassebly process.

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