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  1. #1
    ummmm.. what!?
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    getting back to the game. help...

    so. long story short. drivetrain on my bike blew apart a few years ago. never fixed it. finally its time. 3 years ago.. 1x9 was the best thing. now, 9 speed is apparently out. i find this out after i spent a bunch of money to try and run it. i had an X0 shifter, so i got an X0 mech, pg-990 cass. hope chainring, and blah blah whatever. i try and find a crank. most are ten speed specific? I'm so confused. spent hours on the internet trying to figure it all out. so lost... send it all back and go 1x10?
    Its a JEEP thing. I have 4 and still don't understand..

  2. #2
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    If you still want to do 1x, it really shouldn't be a big deal. A 9- or 10-speed chain should play nicely with your cassette, rear derailleur, and a single ring setup using a chainring designed for either 1x9 or 1x10.

    Someone may contradict me in a minute, but there are two important aspects of a multispeed bike chain. The rollers have a certain width and the plates have a certain width. The roller width didn't change going from 9- to 10. So both chains will perform the same on a 1x ring.

    There are lots of reports of the next higher "speed" chain working fine on an older cassette. I have a bike set up that way myself, actually. Now and then, people have a problem with a multi ring setup. But you don't want a multi ring setup.

    So you can take what you've got, add a crank with a 1x ring, and do ride. Welcome back.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  3. #3
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    You can add a 10sp crank to what you have with zero problems if it is easier to find.
    You can get a SLX triple 10sp, remove the inner and outer rings and get shorter ring bolts to create a 1x.
    Shimano SLX M670 10 Speed Triple Chainset including Bottom Bracket, Chainsets, CHAINSETS MTB

  4. #4
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    I'd say if you're going 1x then any 9/10 speed crankset would work. The chainring won't know the diff and you're not shifting so it doesn't matter about spacing. The only thing to consider is if you still want to use the Hope chainring just make sure the BCD matches whatever you get. Otherwise, the narrow/wide rings are a good option and can reduce the need for a chain guide (unless you're riding really rough stuff).

  5. #5
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    10-speed crankset with work fine with 9-speed chains. I bought the following from for my 9x and it works great.
    Shimano Deore M610 Crankset > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Cranksets | Jenson USA

    I don't think a 10-speed chain will work well with a 9-speed cassette though. I think the inside width of the chain links is narrower on the 10-speed chain, which could cause some float on the cassettes cogs and the derailure's pulleys. It would probably work, but not as well as a 9-speed chain. Oddly enough, it seems 10-speed chains are getting to be the same price as 9-speed.

  6. #6
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    Do you have a crankset on the bike currently?

    If you do, no need to change it. Also no need to go to 10 speed unless you're worried about being fashionable - a 2x9 will give you even more of a gear range than a 1x10, and a 1x9 is also fine as long as you're able to push your lowest gear combo. Should likely be able to get down to a 30x34 AFAIK.
    Sinister Bikes
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  7. #7
    ummmm.. what!?
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    i do have one that creaks and moans. its junk. shimano octalink m442 or something. i know I'm running an old frame. i believe its a 2006 giantc xtc, but, i got the frame NOS so it was brand new, and i only put one good riding season on it. so i want to do away with all the pieced together junk on it and I'm just gonna custom build it. then maybe down the road get me a shiny new frame and have a nice component group to switch over. doing the whole drivetrain now and then in a couple months the whole front end. and end it with a nice set of wheels. the old manitou black I'm running just got rebuilt and is in working order.. so i can rock it for awhile. i ride rough, always have. so i figured that i would just go big and get the stuff that isn't gonna break. I'm like 600 into a drive train, but thats everything except for hubs. heres a break down. I'm was open and accepting to suggestions.

    giant xtc frame 2006
    deore hubs m525 with WTB speed v rims, wrapped in kimodos
    manitou black elite
    cane creak headset
    take off DB stem and bars
    sram x0 9 speed shifter and rear mech
    trying to decide between shimano and race face crank and bb maybe sram
    pg 990 cassette 11-32 maybe 34 there was a mix up with the seller, see when it arrives
    wippermann 9sx chain
    crank brother acid pedals
    thomson masterpiece post with hope QR
    selle italia saddle.
    bb7 brakes with the g2 rotors
    hope NW chainring 32t with bashwich set up (maybe)

    thats complete bike right?

    i think thats it. probably going to get some new cables and housings, jagwire most likely. thanks again, i really appreciate any help and input. all my buddies wanna go ride, but when it comes down to it, they don't know anymore than me about this stuff and i end up riding alone anyways..
    Its a JEEP thing. I have 4 and still don't understand..

  8. #8
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    A 10-speed crank will work without trouble in a 1x9 drivetrain. I've run that for a few years. The crank arms themselves are no different, comparing typical 4-arm spider 104/64 BCD. Find the length arm you want - 165, 170, 175mm - and get it. The chainrings themselves are engineered for 10 spd chain, meaning slightly narrower distance between the plates compared to 9 spd. That's irrelevant since you're running a new N/W ring. Most of those are spec'd for 10 or 11 spd chains. The Hope N/W, however, is compatible with 9-, 10- and 11-speed. Anyway, 10-spd chain on 9-spd cassette works fine. I personally found that a 10-speed SRAM chain runs best on my 9-speed Shimano cassette and WolfTooth N/W chain ring. Remember to get shorter chainring bolts when you go 1x, unless you're using 30t 104 BCD; some manufacturers spec longer bolt to push the ring far enough away from the spider to avoid contact.

    Ditch the creaky Shimano Octalink and grab an external bearing BB along with your new crankset. World of difference compared to Octalink, ISIS or square taper. Your BB shell is probably 68mm wide and English threaded if it has a Octolink BB (measure to make sure). Easy to throw in external bearing BB which typically fit 68 or 73mm shell. Just get the shell faced to ensure everything sits nice. It's hard to go wrong with either Shimano or Race Face. RF probably has a better BB but it depends on which level you're looking at.

    Whether it makes sense to put all this money into a 2006 frame is a whole other consideration. Most people would say no, especially given the changes in geo, space for wider tires, new hub standards, rear maxle, and prevalence of tapered head tubes. If the plan is to switch over the shiny new components to a new frame down the line, that factors in. But, how shiny or new will they be when you're ready for a frame? Only you can decide whether it works for you. Every time I go into a shop they tell me I'm stupid for putting new components on my 2010 26" HT. I laugh at them. For me it makes sense. For many others, maybe not so much. Sounds like you're having a blast; enjoy.

  9. #9
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    I never had trouble with cartridge bottom brackets.

    I also think buying things to move to a new frame later is a sucker's bet. Yeah, the English-threaded bottom bracket is still pretty dominant right now. But BB30 and PF92 are threatening it. And as others have mentioned, there have been changed in head tubes, axles, etc.

    So let me turn this in a different direction. What are you missing to be able to ride your bike?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  10. #10
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    I really don't see a problem with an '06 XTC. It's awesome for tight XC riding, light and strong. I rode mine for a long time before switching to FS (still do occasionally).

    The m442 crank on the other hand, well...it's functional. Are you sure it's creaking because it's worn out or is it just needing maybe some grease on the threads or repacking of the bearings? Or possibly something else...creaking can be hard to pinpoint. Worth investigating unless you just want something better. I likely would if money isn't a problem, considering the rest of the build isn't exactly low end.

    Lots of choices out there. Just as long as you know that if you go to sell it, you won't exactly be making back what you put in. If you're really up for looking to move parts over in the future, sometime around '11 or '12 is about as new in Giant's line as you can go before more stuff stops matching (bb/headset). Definitely confirm before buying. Honestly, their hardtails aren't very different during that time frame.

  11. #11
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    If you're spending money and if that includes a new crankset and BB, for whatever reason, then I'd go external bearing BB and crankset. There's no reason to buy another cartridge BB. Threaded BB are not going extinct in the foreseeable future; unless a carbon fiber frame is in your future, you should be able to find a good frame. Even then there are after-market adaptors for pressfit to threaded. Plus, depending on the type of pressfit shell, the crankset may still be usable. Shell widths are changing but at least 73mm won't be extinct in the foreseeable future. I can't think of an external bearing BB that won't fit 68 as well as 73mm shell. Besides, if you're replacing the BB and crankset anyway and threaded shells disappear in the next few years, if you buy new cartridge BB and crankset you'll still be stuck with it when you buy a new frame. Otherwise grease up and repack the old BB and give it whirl.

    Whether you should spend the money is a big question that only you can answer. As has been pointed out, there's not a ton of difference in standards between 2006 and maybe 2011/2012, but a lot has been happening in the last few years. It may very well be that spending all this money to change out a 2006 is not a good bet. That's up to you. If you like the frame geo and handling and are ok with not having current or future standards in hubs, axles, and head tubes then the cost of a crankset and BB is nothing compared to what you've already spent.

  12. #12
    ummmm.. what!?
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    i mean the simple fact is i don't have 2000 bucks to go drop on a new rig. to go out and buy a complete for 600, even 1000 isn't going to give me the best of components. I've never actually ridden good stuff. that being said, I've always had driveline issues. i like the go of this frame and the way it fits me. and as far as the possibility of transferring this stuff over... that is a bridge i can cross when i get there. hopefully, next year should be a much more profitable year for me to go and drop big bucks on a nicer new 'standard.' i really appreciate all the input guys, I'm gonna stick to building this thing up to a great rig. i think I'm on the right track, maybe drop another 5-6 on a fork and yeah, it'll be 1 ⅛, but they make reducer headers, no? think I'm gonna lean towards a race face crankset, just haven't figured which one. id like to get hope cranks and bb, but that like 4 hundo right there. I'm not afraid to be behind the times with a fully functional rig. as far as hubs and axles go, isn't that has easy and switching out the races to accecpt larger or smaller axles? the hubs I've got aren't great, but they are new. and the frame really is too, its just old. I'm pretty sure the bbthats in there is waste-o face, its grinds and sounds dirty, at the least, could keep the arms and replace that bb for cheap. but I'm in the mood to spend and i think it will be worth it to me. i will keep everyone posted on here and get pics up as soon as i get her together. won't be for a couple weeks, but it will get done, hard to find time with two full time jobs and full time school. but I've got 4 really nice places to ride within 45 min of me, so those few hours i do get off, it would be awesome to get out. theres some really awesome trails about 20 min from me, big shout out to CAMBA for maintaining them so well. thanks dudes

    looks like i might be going with sram x0 cranks, found a good deal on eBay and a hope either ss or ceramic bb. in total its like 300 bones. anyone have a better deal than that in mind?
    Last edited by blkcheerio; 3 Days Ago at 06:43 AM.
    Its a JEEP thing. I have 4 and still don't understand..

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkcheerio View Post
    looks like i might be going with sram x0 cranks, found a good deal on eBay and a hope either ss or ceramic bb. in total its like 300 bones. anyone have a better deal than that in mind?
    No idea if that's new or used to know if it's a good deal. Ceramic isn't any better than steel when it comes to bearings. Just a lot of hype and more $ for no better real world performance.

    Not top of the line, but not bad either. Race Face Ride with a narrow-wide for $75 shipped. Gives you $225 toward your new ride when that day comes. Only thing is that it's 32t, so if that's too high might not be the best thing as 30t NW rings are $50+. I have a crank with this BB - RF bottom brackets have gotten better since the square taper days, but still not up to Shimano level yet IMHO. If it gives up the ghost in a year or three, just pop on a Shimano XT for ~$25 and done. They're compatible.

  14. #14
    ummmm.. what!?
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    i got a 32 now. i was previously running a 2x8 and pretty much always on the 32 ring.. the xo crankset is brand new its like 180. but again, that was two years ago.. so. the 32 might be to big, we shall see... if i end up needing a 30.. shame on me. haha
    Its a JEEP thing. I have 4 and still don't understand..

  15. #15
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    How about a new frame now?

    I mean, if that's what you want and you're in a spendy mood, why not?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  16. #16
    ummmm.. what!?
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    because funds don't allow it..
    Its a JEEP thing. I have 4 and still don't understand..

  17. #17
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Is your bike rideable now?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  18. #18
    ummmm.. what!?
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    Not even close. She's in pieces. I decided to go with face face cinch. Bsa bb and I'm thinking gonna try an absolute black oval chainring.

  19. #19
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    How about put away the credit card, step away from the Internet, and put together what you've got.

    I feel like you've got a few contradictory goals going on here.

    I assume you actually want to go mountain biking. So that's one.

    Clearly you want some bling on this bike. So that's another.

    And you're talking about a future bike, with rear suspension.

    The biggest conflict I see is between the bling on the current bike and actually getting that future bike. Although I can't help thinking the desire for bling on this bike is actively interfering with your ability to go ride.

    You can have other priorities, of course, but for me, missing riding days because of tinkering or, worse yet, shopping is Doing It Wrong.

    So figure out what you're actually missing to go riding, and let's take it from there.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  20. #20
    ummmm.. what!?
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    well yes. i will be back on the trails soon. and I'm out of shape and its going to kick my ass, but i cannot wait. i wouldn't say i want 'bling' on it, just good parts that are going to last. i understand its a huge upgrade I'm doing. going from a 2x8 sram x5 and shimano low low end crank and bb, to sram x0 and what is hopefully a good improvement with the race face turbine bb and crank. cool thing is that the crank i can especially with to what ever i want, except arm length. i went with 175, i think the m442 is only 170 if I'm not mistaken. and again... the bling, i got whatever i could get for cheap, so ill have this red frame with blue cranks and a green chainring with a purple clamp. should look interesting, i don't know about bling. but everything is ordered and will be here within the week, so hopes are that in a max of two weeks, I'm out experiencing a minor MI on the trails. i will keep up and post some pictures when i get everything put together, def going to be a learning experience. i opted for the 30t elliptical chain ring running a 11-34 cassette, well see how that goes. if it doesn't work right, i can either just switch the chainring up to a round 32 i have, only requires me to buy a spider for the cinch crank. unless... someone anywhere is interested in a gold round 32t hope chainring with a blue bashwich ultra lite setup and some red wolf tooth bolts...
    Its a JEEP thing. I have 4 and still don't understand..

  21. #21
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    I hope it's everything you want it to be.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  22. #22
    ummmm.. what!?
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    sense some sarcasm there.. not sure why...
    Its a JEEP thing. I have 4 and still don't understand..

  23. #23
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    Not being sarcastic. I'm not optimistic that it will be that different and it's not where I'd put my money, but I don't know you well enough to wish you ill.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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