1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Gary Fisher Build

    I purchased a Gary Fisher Paragon frame from The Pros Closet. The frame has never been built up. The guys at TPC said it is roughly a 2000-2002. I went through about 16 pages of the GF picture thread and could not find pictures of Paragon frames in the same paint scheme or year. Does anyone know roughly what year it is?

    Gary Fisher Paragon Mountain Bike Frame 17 5" Medium Hardtail Aluminum | eBay

    Below are all of the parts that I have bought thus far. They should be trickeling in within the next 1-2 weeks:

    • Shimano Dyn-Sys Drivetrain:
      • SLX M660 Crankset, 175mm, 42/32/24t
      • SLX M661 Front Derailleur
      • SLX M663 Rear Derailleur
      • BB70 Bottom Bracket
      • SLX HG81-10, 11-36t Cassete
      • HG-X HG74 Chain
      • SLX M660-10A Shifters

    • Shimano Deore BL-M595/BRM595 Hydraulic Disc Brake Set
    • TruckerCo Sintered Disc Pads
    • WTB Momentum Comp ST Headset
    • 2013 Suntour XCR w/ Remote Lockout Fork, 100mm
    • Ashima Ai2 160mm F/R Rotors
    • Selle Italia Nekkar Seat
    • 30.8 Carbon Fiber Seat Post
    • Jagwire Universal Sport Derailleur Kit, Braided White


    I have these that I'll be parting over from my current bike:

    • Alex DM24 Wheelset
    • Kend Dred Tread F/R Tires
    • Dimension Sport Pedals (Probably will change in time)
    • Race Face Evolve XC Stem
    • Race Face Evolve XC Handlebar (Probably will change to Carbon Fiber in time)
    • Velo Attune Lock On Grips



    I think that's about all I need to do my first frame up build. I'm a total amateur to this, so I am assuming this may result in a trip to the LBS to assemble/tune.

    If all goes as planned, I am assuming somewhere around 24lbs.

    I'll post pictures as the parts come in and I put things together.
    Last edited by hramd001; 06-09-2013 at 06:22 PM.

  2. #2

  3. #3
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    Wow, what a wealth of knowledge. Thanks again.

    Any thoughts on the build parts?

  4. #4
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    Any thoughts on a good general size to cut the steerer tube to? I want to make sure it is a good general size to part over to other builds, as well as for resale. The uncut length is 255mm.

    Also, any thoughts on the 175mm crank arms? I wasn't paying too much attention and bid on the 175mm crank arms. Not sure if it would make a significant impact over the 170mm arms.

  5. #5
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    I don't see disk brake mounts on that frame?
    The 175 will be fine - I just changed from 175 to 180 and really like it.

    I usually try to find as many stem spacers as I can and leave the steerer tube very long for the first few rides While you figure out the position that feels good. You can cut it shorter but can't make it longer.

  6. #6
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    There is a disc brake adapter that needs to be purchased and mounted to the existing mount.

    I didn't know if the 175mm will significanly effect my ground clearance, over the 170mm. Of course, we're speaking of a 5mm difference.

    I'll cut the tube to my preferred length, but I didn't know if there was a consensus general height. For example, I may be comfortable at 195mm, however if I cut it there, I may not be able to resell it, as the general population keeps it at 205mm.

  7. #7
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    You shouldn't be too worried about resell value on parts ,it you like the fork you will wear it out before you sell it. Most mountain bikes come with 175 mm cranks.You didn't say what bike you useing for parts ,ther could be issues with the fit of the wheels ,are your wheels quick release 9mm axle ,is the new fork a thru axle ? I wouldn't put a disc adapter on that frame ,if wasn't designed for the loads that the brake will put on the seat/chain stays.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash5 View Post
    I don't see disk brake mounts on that frame?
    The 175 will be fine - I just changed from 175 to 180 and really like it.

    I usually try to find as many stem spacers as I can and leave the steerer tube very long for the first few rides While you figure out the position that feels good. You can cut it shorter but can't make it longer.
    Quote Originally Posted by rangeriderdave View Post
    You shouldn't be too worried about resell value on parts ,it you like the fork you will wear it out before you sell it. Most mountain bikes come with 175 mm cranks.You didn't say what bike you useing for parts ,ther could be issues with the fit of the wheels ,are your wheels quick release 9mm axle ,is the new fork a thru axle ? I wouldn't put a disc adapter on that frame ,if wasn't designed for the loads that the brake will put on the seat/chain stays.
    The wheels are AlexRims DM24 QR 9mm, same for the fork. The only question I have on the wheels is the rear hub. The original listing read 8/9 speed cassette. Right now, there is a 7 speed cassete (with a spacer I believe). I see lots of other wheel listings state Shimano or SRAM 8/9/10; not sure what would make this different. Thoughts?

  9. #9
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    Some 7 speed hubs were 130mm wide ,so were some frame ,8&9 speed are 135mm wide 10 speed are mostly 135mm. If the frame is 130 the new hub will be diffecult to get into the dropouts. Steel frames can be spread to 135mm.Your frame should 135 mm,if the hub is 135mm, no problem. If the hub is 130 mm themn you might need a spacer.

  10. #10
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    Thought I would show some pictures as it is coming along...

    This shows the frame with the some of the parts mounted... bottom bracket, crankset, pedals, front and rear derailleur, front and rear (w, early GF adapter and IS mount) brake calipers, headset, and fork (not cut yet)
    Attachment 808590

    Attachment 808591
    Attachment 808592
    Attachment 808589

    I am still waiting on the seatpost. I tried my new seat yesterday on my current bike. It's crazy light, but I have never hurt so bad. Going to try returning, but definitely getting something with some more padding and a cutout.

    Waiting on the headset spacers to cut the fork and install the handlebar setup.
    Last edited by hramd001; 06-18-2013 at 05:36 PM.

  11. #11
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    Any thoughts on how I can run the hydraulic cable cleanly? The cable guide on the top tube does fit the hydraulic cable, and the fork does not have a guide at all.

    I see these, but I am not sure where they go, and how it works...
    [Bi_King] Jagwire Hydraulic Hose Cable Guide/Grip (2pcs/set) - Black (SH38C)

    I am trying to stay away from zip-ties for a clean look. Thoughts?

  12. #12
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    Not sure why this isn't moving to the top of the discussion list after I posted....

  13. #13
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    Try this again...

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