1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    ... and if we just ... Frame Swapping - What Am I Looking At?

    After getting some labor quotes on how much it would be to swap frames ($150-$300) from LBS's around here, I'm contemplating on doing the job myself.

    COMPONENTS of used bike that I am potentially buying
    Specialized Pitch Comp Spec
    Fork: RockShox Pike 327, 95-140mm, U-Turn
    Brakeset: Hayes Stroker Ryde, hydraulic, w/203mm rotor front/Hayes Stroker Ryde, hydraulic, w/185mm rotor rear brakes, Hayes Stroker Ryde levers
    Shift Levers: SRAM X-5 Trigger
    Front Derailleur: Shimano LX, E-type
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.7
    Crankset: Shimano M521, 22/32/44 teeth
    Bottom Bracket: Shimano M521
    Rear Cogs: 9-speed, 11 - 34 teeth
    Chain: KMC HG-73, 1/2 x 3/32"
    Seatpost: Two-bolt Alloy Micro-Adjust, 30.9mm diameter
    Saddle: Specialized Enduro, steel rails
    Handlebar: Specialized mid rise, butted, 31.8mm, 660mm wide
    Handlebar Stem: Specialized 3D forged alloy, 8 degree rise, 31.8mm 4 bolt clamp
    Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Threadless

    Hubs: Front: Specialized Stout Disc, 20mm thru axle, Rear: Shimano M475
    Rims: Alex RHD 26, 32-hole
    Tires: 26 x 2.30" S-Works Eskar Sport
    Geometry of used bike that I am potentially buying (Size: 19")
    Specialized Pitch Comp Geometry for size Large
    Seat Tube Length - Center to Top: 483mm
    Top Tube Length (Horizontal): 620mm
    Top Tube Length (Actual): 606mm
    Chainstay Length: 423mm
    Bottom Bracket Height - Low Setting: 356mm
    Seat Tube Angle (Actual) - Low Setting: 73°
    Seat Tube Angle (Effective) - Low Setting: 76°
    Head Tube Angle - Low Setting: 67°
    Wheel Base: 1183mm
    Standover Height: 759mm
    Head Tube Height: 128mm
    Handlebar Width: 680mm
    Stem Length: 75mm
    Crank Length: 175mm
    Seatpost Length: 400mm
    Stack: 581mm
    Reach: 480mm
    Ground-Top: 937mm

    Details of new frame that I would like to swap in (Size: 15")
    FireEye Spitfire Details
    Material: 4130 cromoly (Hydro Formed down tube)
    Headtube size: fully integrated 1-1/8" x collared 120mm
    Seat post size: 27.2mm
    Seat clamp size: 29.8mm
    Front derailleur seat tube size: 28.6mm for top cable routing
    Tire size: 24" (disc brake compatible) 26" (cantilever and disc brake compatible)
    Dropouts: 10mm x 135mm
    Disc brake compatible: international standard disc brake mount
    Hanger type: horizontal (ASP compatible)
    Suggested fork travel: 100-130mm
    BB size: 68mm (standard MTB euro BB shell)
    This is my list so far:
    • Steerer Tube of Fork will require spacers or a trimming
    • New seatpost, seatpost clamp, and front derailleur will probably be needed


    I am in no rush to get this done, but at the same time, I don't want to spend more money on this than necessary. Am I in over my head and is the cost of tools that I would need already more than I am accounting for?
    Last edited by davidlax12; 01-06-2013 at 08:58 PM.

  2. #2
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    is cheaper to give to a lbs to do it than buying the tools also it will professionally build.

  3. #3
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    For a free-ride bike frame yea. But the swap parts look like an AM build.
    The rear looks like a SS frame type but idk. So if your gonna ride trails and not use it for stunts,
    then I would'nt go with that frame.

  4. #4
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    A few tools like a BB removal socket ect. will run like $30. I do all my own work. Same with cars and
    motorcycles. I won't pay op labor on something I can do myself and take my time doing to make sure
    it's all done right. But if you don't trust doing it yourself then pay a out the butt I guess. lol

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    For a free-ride bike frame yea. But the swap parts look like an AM build.
    The rear looks like a SS frame type but idk. So if your gonna ride trails and not use it for stunts,
    then I would'nt go with that frame.
    The new frame can be used as a single speed or geared bike. I like this frame because (1) it's cheap (2) it's chromoly steel. I'll have 1-2 more inches of seatpost exposed, but the ETT is spot on. I'm just trying to determine incompatible parts that I will encounter and account for.

  6. #6
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    I always thought a SS frame had narrower chainstays than a geared frame.

  7. #7
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    What kind of riding will you be doing ?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    What kind of riding will you be doing ?
    Here are three builds that I am using as references. I am trying to build up a simple trail/AM hardtail with a chromoly steel frame.




  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    For a free-ride bike frame yea. But the swap parts look like an AM build.
    The rear looks like a SS frame type but idk. So if your gonna ride trails and not use it for stunts,
    then I would'nt go with that frame.
    Soooo you dont think you can use a free ride frame for a AM hardtail? Look at the FireEye frame 3rd pic from the right, there is a RD hanger on the chain tugs. And SS specific frames are not any narrower at the chainstays than a geared bike, they just have "horizontal drop outs."

    A FR frame fits the bill perfectly for a AM hardtail build, go look the AM hardtail pic thread, there are tons of FR frames being used, and it works just fine. There are even a few people on this forum that use that exact frame for their AM hardtail builds.

  10. #10
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    I won't climb with that set-up but that's just my preference I guess. Go for it lol.

  11. #11
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    It'll be easier going from a larger frame to a smaller frame than the other way. You'll need a headset press as well. If you don't want to buy the tools, you can have the shop do all the little stuff you don't have tools for and it'll be cheaper than buying tools, but will probably be around $50 if you bring it all in at once and have them do it.
    No, YOU don't understand. You're making an ass of yourself for all of eternity.

  12. #12
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    To the OP. DO IT! I want one of these frames, but I am 6 foot and im curious about the fit, even with the 15" frame having a 23" ETT, I think I will be too big for the frame.

  13. #13
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    OP, your donor bike and target frame look like a fairly good match. The big-ticket items - the fork and the wheels - are going to be appropriate and the steer tube diameter is right. So I think you have a good plan.

    You'll probably run into trouble somewhere. These projects are always more complicated. Some particular places that problems are more likely are in mounting the front derailleur and installing the seat post and seat clamp. Luckily, these aren't terribly big-ticket items. It's good that the donor bike is a largish frame size and the hardtail frame has a relatively short head tube - you've got a much better chance that the fork will move over.

    Expect to have to do some smaller stuff. You might need new cables and housings, you may have a little trouble with the disc brake lines, that sort of thing.

    Specialized tools are going to be the bottom bracket and crank installation stuff and the headset installation stuff. Best practices would be to get the head tube and bottom bracket faced before you start. Should still be cheaper than having the shop do the transfer.

    Give it a shot. Good luck! And, try to remove everything from the Pitch "nicely." You can probably resell that frame.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  14. #14
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    69er to 97.5er? or b9er? whatever....

    I am new to this forum stuff, but I have alot of questions and this seems like the lace to start.
    I have a Trek 69er HT and was wondering if I fit a 650B/27.5 on the rear should I go from a 100mm fork to a 120mm fork as well. I mean it only makes sense to me. .... putting on the 27.5 will raise the rear of bike .75" right? So, going from 100mm to 120mm would raise front .78" to match and not mess with steering tube angle right?
    1988 black kmart bike--threw in garbage...
    1995 Cannondale super V 900 comp --- sold
    2004 Litespeed niota clr with XT everything --- sold last year
    Now... I bought 2009 Trek 69er hardtail and am so confuzed with this tire bull....
    I wanna run a 1x9 and rip around locally and all...
    any feedack would be cool

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by japinto View Post
    I am new to this forum stuff, but I have alot of questions and this seems like the lace to start.
    I have a Trek 69er HT and was wondering if I fit a 650B/27.5 on the rear should I go from a 100mm fork to a 120mm fork as well. I mean it only makes sense to me. .... putting on the 27.5 will raise the rear of bike .75" right? So, going from 100mm to 120mm would raise front .78" to match and not mess with steering tube angle right?
    1988 black kmart bike--threw in garbage...
    1995 Cannondale super V 900 comp --- sold
    2004 Litespeed niota clr with XT everything --- sold last year
    Now... I bought 2009 Trek 69er hardtail and am so confuzed with this tire bull....
    I wanna run a 1x9 and rip around locally and all...
    any feedack would be cool
    Would love to help, but not in this thread. You should post enough times to be able to start your own thread. See you there!
    No, YOU don't understand. You're making an ass of yourself for all of eternity.

  16. #16
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    Sounds like a fairly easy build.
    I think you will need a new headset - new frame is integrated, old frame is likely not.
    E-type front derailleur would probably work or go new.
    Depending on the brake hose routing, you might need a new longer rear or shortened.
    I assume you will go with new cables and housing while you are at it.

    Get the LBS to do the headset and bottom bracket and you won't need any special tools.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by japinto View Post
    I am new to this forum stuff, but I have alot of questions and this seems like the lace to start.
    I have a Trek 69er HT and was wondering if I fit a 650B/27.5 on the rear should I go from a 100mm fork to a 120mm fork as well. I mean it only makes sense to me. .... putting on the 27.5 will raise the rear of bike .75" right? So, going from 100mm to 120mm would raise front .78" to match and not mess with steering tube angle right?
    1988 black kmart bike--threw in garbage...
    1995 Cannondale super V 900 comp --- sold
    2004 Litespeed niota clr with XT everything --- sold last year
    Now... I bought 2009 Trek 69er hardtail and am so confuzed with this tire bull....
    I wanna run a 1x9 and rip around locally and all...
    any feedack would be cool
    What you just attempted in the forum world is known as "thread jacking" This is someone elses thread and you thought you could come in and just ask your own questions and throw your problems out there, this is not cool. Go look at some picture threads, comment on a bunch of bikes and how awesome they look then create your own thread, with your own questions. Have a nice day.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash5 View Post
    Sounds like a fairly easy build.
    I think you will need a new headset - new frame is integrated, old frame is likely not.
    E-type front derailleur would probably work or go new.
    Depending on the brake hose routing, you might need a new longer rear or shortened.
    I assume you will go with new cables and housing while you are at it.

    Get the LBS to do the headset and bottom bracket and you won't need any special tools.
    Supposedly the new frame comes with the headset. Is that common or is that how "integrated headsets" work?

    "Yes, a fully headset already comes along with a Spitfire frame. However, you’ll need to purchase the cap, bolt, and star nut separately on CRC. We don’t sell these spare parts, so please search from other brands on CRC." - Fire Eye Support

  19. #19
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    Yea, it's common for a frame to come with a head set. zero stack, integrated, etc.
    It helps to sell frames a bit easier with a headset included.

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