1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    First Bike: Trek 3500 disc vs 3700 disc

    So I thought I knew what biked I was going to get. I wasn't looking to spend crazy money and I'm not doing any trails that are that insane. With that said it came down to the Trek 3500 disc. What I noticed was that the 3700 disc is $40 more. Can someone please explain to a noob the difference? and more importantly is it really worth that extra money?

    Here are the details on both bikes.

    Trek 3500 disc: Trek Bicycle

    Trek 3700 disc: Trek Bicycle

    Thank you.

  2. #2
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    *the only difference that stands out on the 3700 frame is the semi-integrated headset. it looks cooler and is probably a little stronger.
    *the 3700 has a fork with more travel, 100mm versus 80mm on the 3500. both are still cheap forks that might not last long and are not worth servicing.
    *the 3700 comes in one larger size than the 3500- 22.5". if you are extremely tall, that would be a deal-breaker.
    *both have 36-spoked wheels, which will be very sturdy from a structural standpoint, but the single-wall rims might not hold up to long-term abuse. keep your tires pumped up!
    *nicer rear derailleur on the 3700, but still low-end.
    *3700 has a nicer disc brake caliper, but both of those brakes kind of suck.

    I think the longer-travel fork is worth the extra $40 if you are going to actually ride trails on it. however, if you're going to ride aggressively, neither of these bikes is going to hold up long. the fork and single-wall rims are not going to last and the 21-speed drivetrain is going to leave you wishing you had a lot more gears to work with. if you're a heavy-set rider, you'll wear out all of these things a lot more quickly. if you get an entry-level bike like this, bring it back to the shop for minor tune-ups often.

  3. #3
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    save a little $, you'll need it later for new tires and all kinds of other stuff

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    *the only difference that stands out on the 3700 frame is the semi-integrated headset. it looks cooler and is probably a little stronger.
    *the 3700 has a fork with more travel, 100mm versus 80mm on the 3500. both are still cheap forks that might not last long and are not worth servicing.
    *the 3700 comes in one larger size than the 3500- 22.5". if you are extremely tall, that would be a deal-breaker.
    *both have 36-spoked wheels, which will be very sturdy from a structural standpoint, but the single-wall rims might not hold up to long-term abuse. keep your tires pumped up!
    *nicer rear derailleur on the 3700, but still low-end.
    *3700 has a nicer disc brake caliper, but both of those brakes kind of suck.

    I think the longer-travel fork is worth the extra $40 if you are going to actually ride trails on it. however, if you're going to ride aggressively, neither of these bikes is going to hold up long. the fork and single-wall rims are not going to last and the 21-speed drivetrain is going to leave you wishing you had a lot more gears to work with. if you're a heavy-set rider, you'll wear out all of these things a lot more quickly. if you get an entry-level bike like this, bring it back to the shop for minor tune-ups often.
    Perfect... thank you for taking the time to help me. I will tell you more about me and then I will trust your opinion. I am 6' 1 1/2" with an athletic build. I do not plan on traveling to trails that would be HARD. More beginner to Moderate trails locally. I love riding trails more for exercise than for the sport of it (who knows where this will take me), but for now it's for fun / exercise. So now what do you think?

    Quote Originally Posted by tmnutan View Post
    save a little $, you'll need it later for new tires and all kinds of other stuff
    Since I went into wanting a bike between $300-$400 and slowly realizing that wouldn't be safe.. I am already over my budget and I need to purchase all of the essentials. I just didn't want to look back and say "damn I wish I spent the extra $40." The guy at the store said the components in the 3700 are not enough for me to feel the difference (more because of my experience). He suggested to stick with the 3500 disc. And I know this sounds stupid, but I liked the Matte Black color on the 3500 better. That is where my mind set is with bikes HAHA. COMPLETE beginner. Obviously I would choose the better bike if it was that important, but he said it wasn't.

    Looking forward to hearing more of your guys thoughts.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    *the only difference that stands out on the 3700 frame is the semi-integrated headset. it looks cooler and is probably a little stronger.
    *the 3700 has a fork with more travel, 100mm versus 80mm on the 3500. both are still cheap forks that might not last long and are not worth servicing.
    *the 3700 comes in one larger size than the 3500- 22.5". if you are extremely tall, that would be a deal-breaker.
    *both have 36-spoked wheels, which will be very sturdy from a structural standpoint, but the single-wall rims might not hold up to long-term abuse. keep your tires pumped up!
    *nicer rear derailleur on the 3700, but still low-end.
    *3700 has a nicer disc brake caliper, but both of those brakes kind of suck.

    I think the longer-travel fork is worth the extra $40 if you are going to actually ride trails on it. however, if you're going to ride aggressively, neither of these bikes is going to hold up long. the fork and single-wall rims are not going to last and the 21-speed drivetrain is going to leave you wishing you had a lot more gears to work with. if you're a heavy-set rider, you'll wear out all of these things a lot more quickly. if you get an entry-level bike like this, bring it back to the shop for minor tune-ups often.
    Hmmm... I have a 2012 3500 and my LBS told me the rims were double walled. Where can you find this information on the wheels. I am wondering how many lies I was told at the shop.

    FWIW my brother in law bought a 4500 disc and they told him the same thing... wonder if that's false info also.

    Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Yeah I am really curious to hear about this. Hopefully more people will respond.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by codyh12345 View Post
    Hmmm... I have a 2012 3500 and my LBS told me the rims were double walled. Where can you find this information on the wheels. I am wondering how many lies I was told at the shop.

    FWIW my brother in law bought a 4500 disc and they told him the same thing... wonder if that's false info also.
    I think the 4000-series bikes have double walled rims, but the sales rep is ignorant or he lied to you about the rims on the 3000-series bikes. they are all single-wall. not all bike shop sales guys know what they are talking about. they know the buzz words and just make stuff up sometimes. I don't screw around like that. I have worked on dozens of these bikes, they have single-walled rims. take your bike to the shop and ask the mechanic to remove the tire and prove to you that it's a double-walled rim.
    Bontrager 550 double walled?



    to the OP Joey:
    I think that if you ride any kind of technical trails, at your size (not calling your fat), you are going to kill a 3000-series bike. it would be great for riding paved bike paths, gravel roads, and very light trails, but nothing remotely technical. I don't even recommend the 2012 wahoo 29er to anyone except the lightest of riders who aren't going to take it off-road because of the single-wall rims and meh fork. I have seen a lot of people "taco" their single-wall rims on these bikes when they are sold as mountain bikes. if you look at the sticker on the down tube, I am pretty certain that all of the 3000-series bikes are labeled "city/trekking" bikes, while the 4000-series and higher are labeled "mountain bikes." I'll check next time I am in the shop, but if I am right, there is a good reason for this. I just don't want to see you buy a bike that is beneath your potential and have you push it beyond what it's made to do and a) break the bike or b) get injured, then have to spend a lot more money on a proper bike or give up on cycling altogether.

    if you plan to ride it ONLY on pavement, and you are not even the slightest bit interested in taking it off-road on anything more than a gravel path or silky-smooth dirt trail, the 3500/3700 should be fine for you. otherwise, expand your budget. don't cheap out and regret it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    to the OP Joey:
    I think that if you ride any kind of technical trails, at your size (not calling your fat), you are going to kill a 3000-series bike. it would be great for riding paved bike paths, gravel roads, and very light trails, but nothing remotely technical. I don't even recommend the 2012 wahoo 29er to anyone except the lightest of riders who aren't going to take it off-road because of the single-wall rims and meh fork. I have seen a lot of people "taco" their single-wall rims on these bikes when they are sold as mountain bikes. if you look at the sticker on the down tube, I am pretty certain that all of the 3000-series bikes are labeled "city/trekking" bikes, while the 4000-series and higher are labeled "mountain bikes." I'll check next time I am in the shop, but if I am right, there is a good reason for this. I just don't want to see you buy a bike that is beneath your potential and have you push it beyond what it's made to do and a) break the bike or b) get injured, then have to spend a lot more money on a proper bike or give up on cycling altogether.

    if you plan to ride it ONLY on pavement, and you are not even the slightest bit interested in taking it off-road on anything more than a gravel path or silky-smooth dirt trail, the 3500/3700 should be fine for you. otherwise, expand your budget. don't cheap out and regret it.
    LOL! I love how you added (not calling you fat). Anyway, now I do not know what to do. I was just going to take it on trails. Nothing for the road. Soooo confuuussseeddd.

  9. #9
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    let me simplify it for you:
    • cheap
    • light
    • strong


    pick two, because you can't have all three. to get a bike suited for riding trails, expect to spend at least $700 on a new bike. you can get a better deal on a used bike, but that's a crapshoot because you don't know exactly what condition the bike is going to be in and it might not fit you right. you can get a bike online, but then you have to pay to have it assembled or risk assembling it incorrectly yourself, and you will not have a local bike shop to maintain it. most shops will have some sort of "free" maintenance with the purchase of a bike from them.

    I meet a lot of people in your situation and I have to tell them "tough." you have to pay to play. change your priorities, save some more money, budget your spending elsewhere, and make the extra money come together for the right bike so you don't waste money on a bike that won't hold up for you. these bikes are SUPER cheap compared to what they could cost. all of this stuff is made in Taiwan or China (mostly China) and is mass produced faster than you can imagine. (not Trek specifically but all the major brands manufacture all their stuff in China. I hope that's not news to anyone...) a few years ago, all of the technology that goes into a $300 bike would make it a $1200 bike, but the tech trickles down.

  10. #10
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    To your original question: the $40 is worth it even if they are slight improvements.

    Now to clear up the magic exploding entry level bike controversy; it is a mountain bike, built as a mountain bike, equipped with mountain bike parts, and intended for off road use.

    Will it last forever? Absolutely not. Will it self destruct if you run over a root? Hell no. Entry level bikes are not meant to be your last bike, the parts attached to them are cheap and as such they won't last as long as more expensive ones. If you are diligent about keeping the bike working properly, have it serviced at least once a year, and replace things before they completely wear out, you will be surprised how long that bike can last. Should you take that bike to go hit the ski lifts out at Diablo? No, that will murder it. Be smart, take care of your bike, and it will last as long as it takes for you to decide to buy your next bike. My first bike, a $430 1996 GF Tassajara was my mountain bike until about 2004 then again for 2008/09. I put a lot of money into it over the years but I also rode the living hell out of it.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum View Post

    Now to clear up the magic exploding entry level bike controversy; it is a mountain bike, built as a mountain bike, equipped with mountain bike parts, and intended for off road use.
    go look at a Trek 3500. there's a sticker on the down tube that reads "city/trekking bikes." now go look at a 4500, the sticker reads "mountain bikes." there's a reason for that. i don't want to get anyone's hopes up beyond a reasonable expectation that their $400 bike is going to be the best use of their money if they want to get into mountain biking. for someone over six feet tall who is going to use a 3500 Disc exclusively for singletrack riding, it's going to let him down in the long run. it's a bad "investment."

    however, for someone just getting into mountain biking, you can start out with a low-end bike with the understanding that you're going to have to pour twice what you paid for the bike in upgrades over the next two years or so, or you are going to out-grow the bike's purpose quickly and want to spend more on it. so it's cheaper in the long run to start out with a nicer, more expensive bike. when you get the bug, you will find ways to afford this. you will find ways!

  12. #12
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    Well that sucks. I ride on moderately technical trails and have had no issues YET... but the guy at the LBS told me that the trails here in KC are not too rough for it.

    I weigh 200 lbs. so this may be an issue if I get into even more technical riding.

    All in all its my fault for not being informed but I have looked for this info and could not find it anywhere.

    Does anyone know where this information could be found. I am not doubting any info in this thread but I may need to take the bike back to the LBS and get something more fit for the type of riding I would like to be doing.

    Sorry for the hijack OP.

    Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    if it's holding up for you, just keep going. i would be pissed that the bike shop misinformed you about the components though. I meet a lot of people who give me a budget first and I can't find a bike that will suit them within that budget. so i show them bikes in their pre-determined price range and inform them of the shortcomings of those bikes for their purposes. sometimes it works, other times they buy the under-equipped bike anyways and come back a month later with a dozen things broken on the bike because they didn't listen to me the first time.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    go look at a Trek 3500. there's a sticker on the down tube that reads "city/trekking bikes." now go look at a 4500, the sticker reads "mountain bikes." there's a reason for that. i don't want to get anyone's hopes up beyond a reasonable expectation that their $400 bike is going to be the best use of their money if they want to get into mountain biking. for someone over six feet tall who is going to use a 3500 Disc exclusively for singletrack riding, it's going to let him down.
    Sometimes you have to balance budget and expectations. Yes a 3500 is not a 4500, but at the budget available the bike will be able to be used on trails. If you take good enough care of a bike you can keep it running well no matter where you ride it. We're talking about a price increase of nearly the cost of another 3500 just to get to the 4300, I was just trying to suggest that the entry level bikes do not have to be disposable and they are certainly better than riding no bike at all.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

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    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum View Post
    I was just trying to suggest that the entry level bikes do not have to be disposable and they are certainly better than riding no bike at all.
    agreed!

  16. #16
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    Oh trust me... I am already saving for my next bike!!!!

    I will probably just ride this one out and get some experience. I cannot imagine the bike will not last at least a year... I will just stick to the medium difficulty trails and off the rough stuff.

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  17. #17
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    Go get a 4300 over 3500 or switch brands. It seems that the low-end Trek bikes give you lesser components for more money than other brands. If the 4300 is too much money, look @ the specialized hardrock or giant revel line. More bang for your buck.

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    These posts are simply genius and are truly helping me. I hope they are helping others as well. I wouldn't put too many miles on the bike. I would only really be able to go out on a trail 2 maybe 3 times a month! I have a very busy schedule.

    After reading what everyone is saying.. use the $40 and get the better components. If I decide to get "hardcore" into this. I will sell it and put it towards another bike.

    NOW.. with all of that being said.. I really don't want to get too off track here. And I feel like the $$$s just keep going up and up from my original intent of.. "get a bike and go ride some simple trails for fun." (I don't live near mountains haha).

    Let's take this to another option. My friend works at a specialized store but I walked out because I thought the pricing was too high. This guy below triggered my train of thought and I would love to know what you guys think.

    Quote Originally Posted by ej63090 View Post
    Go get a 4300 over 3500 or switch brands. It seems that the low-end Trek bikes give you lesser components for more money than other brands. If the 4300 is too much money, look @ the specialized hardrock or giant revel line. More bang for your buck.
    Should I look more at this? Specialized... Specialized Bicycle Components : Hardrock Disc

    Or this? Giant... Revel 1 (Charcoal/Red) (2012) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Jiggles View Post
    Should I look more at this? Specialized...
    You should literally look at every single option in and around your price range. Test ride every bike you can get your hands on and buy the bike that you fit best on and that you like the best. There is no right answer in picking a bike, the one you like is the best bike for you. One universal truth in purchasing a bike is to spend as much as you are able up front and you will get the best working parts that will last the longest.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

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    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum View Post
    You should literally look at every single option in and around your price range. Test ride every bike you can get your hands on and buy the bike that you fit best on and that you like the best. There is no right answer in picking a bike, the one you like is the best bike for you. One universal truth in purchasing a bike is to spend as much as you are able up front and you will get the best working parts that will last the longest.
    Yeah but the problem is.. a lot of the local stores do not have them in because they are so popular. I am just going to trust my MTBR crew and go get it. :-)

    I am really starting to like this Giant Bike and comparing it to the Specialized, it looks like it may be slightly better? And it is going to be the same cost as the 3700. I called a store that has them.. 2011 $460

    Revel 1 (Silver/ Blue) (2011) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Jiggles View Post
    Yeah but the problem is.. a lot of the local stores do not have them in because they are so popular. I am just going to trust my MTBR crew and go get it. :-)

    I am really starting to like this Giant Bike and comparing it to the Specialized, it looks like it may be slightly better? And it is going to be the same cost as the 3700. I called a store that has them.. 2011 $460

    Revel 1 (Silver/ Blue) (2011) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States
    I have trouble making any decisions that say one bike is better than another unless it is clearly obvious. Suffice to say that it would be hard to go wrong choosing any. If you can't test ride then go with the shop that you like best, or the bike that looks best to you. It would be hard to make any major missteps while staying in the same price bracket between manufacturers.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

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    Hey Joey, I see from your profile that you're in Wilmington, DE. Call the Performance Bike in Newark and see if they have the GT Avalanche 3.0 in stock. Online they're selling it for $399. It's a 3x8, dual-wall rims, Alivio derailleur, looks like generally higher level of equipment than either Trek 3xxx you're considering.
    Last edited by joe_bloe; 09-28-2011 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Added link to bike details

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum View Post
    I have trouble making any decisions that say one bike is better than another unless it is clearly obvious. Suffice to say that it would be hard to go wrong choosing any. If you can't test ride then go with the shop that you like best, or the bike that looks best to you. It would be hard to make any major missteps while staying in the same price bracket between manufacturers.
    Ok Zebrahum.. let me put you on the spot here if you don't mind. IF you were to choose one of these 4.. what would YOU pick??

    Trek 3700 disc: 3700 Disc - Trek Bicycle

    Specialized Hardrock: Specialized Bicycle Components : Hardrock Disc

    Giant Revel 1: Revel 1 (Silver/ Blue) (2011) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

    OR

    My original starter.. Trek 3500 disc: 3500 Disc - Trek Bicycle

    Anyone else feel free to chime in!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Jiggles View Post
    Ok Zebrahum.. let me put you on the spot here if you don't mind. IF you were to choose one of these 4.. what would YOU pick??
    If it were me, I'd go test ride the Revel first.

    Let me put it this way, when I bought my entry level bike (twas 1996) I had my heart set on a Trek but got to the shop and saw a Cannondale that was a bit out of my price rance but I decided that probably meant it was better so I kinda had my heart set on it. So the shop let me take those bikes out in the parking lot to ride around a little bit, which I did. Then the sales person rolled out one more bike, a Gary Fisher (currently, and probably then produced by Trek) which was the least expensive of the group with the lowest end parts on it. 30 seconds on the Fisher and I knew it was the bike for me. It didn't matter what parts were on it or what name was on it, what mattered was that bike fit me amazingly and it handled even better. Also, the color was rad which didn't hurt.

    The moral of the story is you never know what a bike is going to be like until you throw a leg over. Sorry to say, but you should at least ride a bike from each manufacturer to see how their sizing compares. I can't tell you what bike will fit you best over the internet and that is hands down the most important part of buying a bike.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Jiggles View Post
    Yeah but the problem is.. a lot of the local stores do not have them in because they are so popular. I am just going to trust my MTBR crew and go get it. :-)

    I am really starting to like this Giant Bike and comparing it to the Specialized, it looks like it may be slightly better? And it is going to be the same cost as the 3700. I called a store that has them.. 2011 $460

    Revel 1 (Silver/ Blue) (2011) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States
    ^^ Im not bike expert but let me just give out a pump up for Giant.

    I bought a 2005 Giant NRS3, am 200#, and have rode it in 4 races and countless miles on my own. Rocks, roots, hills, jumps (small) you name it.

    It has taken everything I have given it and the only thing ive broken was a rear derailer (sp?) hanger because a tree branch jumped out at me.

    Id buy another Giant in a heart beat....
    People ask me all the time "who beat you up"? I tell them "a tree". They just look at me funny....

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