1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
    AKJ
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    First bike build, Q: steerer tube length

    I'm putting together my first bike. My current predicament is how long do I need the steerer tube to be. I have an older fork that I bought used that was cut and I just rode without thinking about it.

    The section of the new fork that isn't tapered is the same length as the old fork (that isn't tapered), therefore when I put the same number of spacers on it fits flush just as it did with the old fork. But, do I need to reduce the height of the steerer tube to compensate for the added travel and tapered section?

    For my setup so far I have...
    - Evil Sovereign white frame
    - Rockshox Revelation RCT3 DP-Air 150mm 650b fork in black
    - Stan's Notubes Arch Ex 650b w/ Novatec white hubs.

    The old fork is a Fox 130mm Float RLC.

  2. #2
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    It should not quite be flush with the top of the stem. It should be a about 2mm to 3mm shorter than the top of the stem so you can use the top cap to put a little tension to the headset bearings. If it's flush, you must get a 'clunk' in the front end.

    Check this out:

    Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog Fork Steering Column Length and Sizing

  3. #3
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    MTB forks are often rated for 30 mm of spacers. I'd look up the rating on my fork and, as a starting point, cut the steer tube to work with my head tube, headset, 30 mm of spacers under the stem, the stem itself, and then just a skosh more. I like to have one spacer above my stem.

    If you end up with way too much extra steerer once you've built up and fit the bike, you can always cut again. But if your steerer is too short, you're SOL.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  4. #4
    AKJ
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    Thanks guys. That info is a great help. I have a follow-up question, how do I compensate for the tapered portion of the fork? Altogether the new Rockshox fork's steerer tube is longer than the old Fox fork however, the length of the straight part of the Rockshox is the same length as the Fox steerer tube (non-tapered)

    I'm not sure the Fox fork was cut to a good position for me due to my limited riding experience.

    Would it be wise for me to just carry this all to a shop and have them guide me?

    The attached images show the tapering vs non-tapering that I'm talking about.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails First bike build, Q: steerer tube length-rockshox_revelation_rct3_dual_position_air_bike_fork_150mm_black.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  5. #5
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    After looking at the Evil bikes website, your headtube is a Traditional 1 1/8 inch, the RS is a tapered 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 steer tube. You are going to need a different lower headset cup for it. I was not able to get from the website if the cups are zero stack/integrated. But the picture of the frame looks like it. If that is the case then this lower would work for you.

  6. #6
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    You bought a taper fork for a non taper frame. If you got it from a retailer ,see about sending back.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdgang View Post
    After looking at the Evil bikes website, your headtube is a Traditional 1 1/8 inch, the RS is a tapered 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 steer tube. You are going to need a different lower headset cup for it. I was not able to get from the website if the cups are zero stack/integrated. But the picture of the frame looks like it. If that is the case then this lower would work for you.
    Might want to change your link, that's a 1.5" standard HT to 1-1/8" steerer lower.

    If you have a traditional 1-1/8" headtube (34mm internal) and a tapered fork (lower 40mm external) you may be SOL.

  8. #8
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    good catch. sorry about the misinformation OP

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdgang View Post
    good catch. sorry about the misinformation OP
    I actually don't think CC do one, only one I know is the Nukeproof 44IETS. Of course that's only if it is straight 44mm ZeroStack like you said, if it's 34mm then no dice.

  10. #10
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    CC did do one EC44/40/H12/K 44mm BHT dia with a 39.8 crown race dia. but like you side if its 34 mm then no dice.

  11. #11
    AKJ
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    Wow I feel stupid. I thought I had covered all the bases on this one and I missed a big obvious detail.

    I hope Jenson USA is forgiving. They have nothing in 650b w/ a 1 1/8 that is suitable for my needs. DANG!

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