Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

Expensive hardtails, do they worth the extra cost?

4K views 20 replies 14 participants last post by  Radney 
#1 ·
I have tried both an older steel hardtail with alivio, stx rc, RS pilot air shock and an up to date aluminium hardtail with mostly XT and a Fox fork. I have ridden both at the same trail 2 hours each. I must admit I felt much more comfortable on the old steel one. Both were the same size, both had riser bars, but the steel had a longer 27 inch riser and a kalloy uno suspension seatpost. So why should I pay so much more for the expensive bike and not just change some key contact points? Where can I understand that the expensive bike, really worths its money? Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I don't think there is a definite answer out there.

It can be worth it, or it can be useless, it all depends on how YOU like your bike. Buying the more expensive bike will likely land you better components, which would've costed more if you had upgraded them yourself.

You must keep in mind though, that for this question to be answered well, you need to compare two bikes with the same frame. Of course a steel and an aluminum frame will feel different, and of course different fork shock combos and even the suspension seatposts will have different feel.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that your question is too broad to be answered well.
 
#3 ·
Markleo said:
I have tried both an older steel hardtail with alivio, stx rc, RS pilot air shock and an up to date aluminium hardtail with mostly XT and a Fox fork. I have ridden both at the same trail 2 hours each. I must admit I felt much more comfortable on the old steel one. Both were the same size, both had riser bars, but the steel had a longer 27 inch riser and a kalloy uno suspension seatpost. So why should I pay so much more for the expensive bike and not just change some key contact points? Where can I understand that the expensive bike, really worths its money? Thanks.
You have to consider what each bike is designed to do. A bike that is designed for trailriding at an easy pace is going to put you in an upright, relaxed position. A bike that is designed for XC racing is going to put you in a hunched over position, is going to have steeper seattube and headtube angles and will be made for one thing--going very fast.

The XT components are going to shift a little nicer, last a little longer and be a little lighter than the bottom of the line components. The more pricey fork is going to have more adjustments and will, again, be a little lighter; it will probably feel plusher, too. Steel frames are known to provide a small degree of softness; they take the edge off bumps. They will also, usually, last longer than aluminum frames.
 
#4 · (Edited)
No

I wish it were that simple. I take it from your post that you have a steel bike you like but could use an upgrade here and there. If that's the case, then upgrade it on things that are cheap, such as some new v-brakes, derailers, and shifters. I wouldn't upgrade the fork because it's not cost effective. When you feel like you really NEED a bike with more advanced technology, then buy a new one.

I know how you feel. I had to buy a new bike b/c my old steel bike was REALLY old. I'm actually turning it into a single speed because it's sentimental to me--I"ve had it since I was 15. She rides smoothly and reliably. She will, of course, have a rigid fork and only one gear.

EDIT: If you don't already have a bike, then the question is harder. It will depend somewhat on your skill level and your tolerance for discomfort. In this case I would say buying a hard tail in the $500-600 range is good. You get better parts than the entry level good bikes. Beyond this, say $800+ (which is what I'm assuming you mean by "expensive") and I truly believe that the returns on your investement are greatly diminishing. You'll like the shifting, braking, and shock absorption of a $600 bike over a $300 bike. You might not notice a difference between a $600 bike and a $900 bike. I think dropping $1g or thereabouts on a hard tail is a mistake. Just my opinion. You can obviously see how I spent my money.
 
#5 ·
there is a diffrence! i have put 1500 miles on my sram xo shifters and rear d. with NO problems. had to make a minor adjustment after i wrapped a stick up in the rear wheel bringing me to a screaching halt! the shifters that came on my $450.00 bike were deore. my LBS was constantly adjusting them after the first 500 miles! buy good stuff and you will enjoy riding more because of less problems.
 
#6 ·
Hmm, in regards to the above post, I would just say that if you knew how to adjust your own shifters, mabye it would take a few seconds at most. And seriously, going a few hundred miles and adjusting is not that big of a deal.

I would say if your upgrading, mabye just go FS for the biggest change.
 
#9 ·
Markleo said:
I have tried both an older steel hardtail with alivio, stx rc, RS pilot air shock and an up to date aluminium hardtail with mostly XT and a Fox fork. I have ridden both at the same trail 2 hours each. I must admit I felt much more comfortable on the old steel one. Both were the same size, both had riser bars, but the steel had a longer 27 inch riser and a kalloy uno suspension seatpost. So why should I pay so much more for the expensive bike and not just change some key contact points? Where can I understand that the expensive bike, really worths its money? Thanks.
STEEL IS REAL, that is the key to your comfort. Why not get a nice Cove or Salsa frame and put the higher end components (which is where the $$$ is involved) on a new steel frame. Yes expensive components are worth the money so long as your use (time/intensity) makes it reasonable.
 
#10 ·
barton29er said:
STEEL IS REAL
Maybe, but material is not everything.
Design and execution make a big difference, whatever the material. You need a good riding position too, meaning a position that works for YOU.
 
#11 ·
The most important thing is that you are "Riding"!! I had an old steel mountain bike that I loved, after some hard riding it wasn't worth the repairs and cost. After getting a new bike, I love the aluminum and would never go back (never say never). I think at times it may be what you are use to; I say ride the steel bike to the ground. You will know when you are ready... But embrace the change. Also see the previous threads on fitting, they are very informative. But I personally never followed the text book fit, it all becomes a matter of comfort and preference. But keep safety in mind.
 
#12 ·
It sounds to me like the issue you had with the newer, aluminum bike was not the cost, but the riding position... How much different would your ride have been with different bars? How much different would the steelie have been without the sus. seatpost? As others have said, if you're happy with the steel bike, ride it. The more expensive aluminum bike will most likely have better quality components and be lighter overall. To some people, the bike weight is everything... for the rest of us, we just ride!
 
#13 ·
You can't compare two frames by the components on them, nor can you compare them by their prices; you need to compare the two frames with the same components if you're going to do any valid comparing. Are they really the same size and geometry? That might help in a comparison, but the materials used and the execution in building the frame are very important as well. Personally I'd rather use a steel hardtail than an aluminum one in most cases, YMMV.
 
#14 ·
taikuodo said:
Hmm, in regards to the above post, I would just say that if you knew how to adjust your own shifters, mabye it would take a few seconds at most. And seriously, going a few hundred miles and adjusting is not that big of a deal.

I would say if your upgrading, mabye just go FS for the biggest change.
hmmm, how do you know markleo can adjust shifters, or wants to? are you gonna follow him around and adjust them? i think a adjustment is a big deal if you cant get up that hill because your chain is skipping and you have to stop and screw with something. how many people have given up this sport because a poor-fitting bike hurt their back, or entry level components didnt give good service? spend more $$ for BETTER stuff and you will be happier in the long run.
 
#15 ·
I think you understand the value of a lighter bike on a more technical trial. i usually ride at a natural park which has quite a lot of different grounds, hills, sand, etc but the overall ride is fairly easy. I guess that's why I could not be sure if the expensive bike was better when I tried both. Also the "cheap" bike had a shorter stem and wider riser bar as well as a suspension seatpost. That made it more comfortable than the other bike. I think the overall point is since I am only going to have the benefits of the expensive hardtails every now and then, since I mostly ride in that park, maybe I do not need it.
 
#16 ·
For XC riding

If you can't notice the difference between this set-up and your current hardtail then you don't need a new bike.

Giant Anthem 1. Then get yourself a set of Cane Creek Zonos Disk rims with a Hutchinson Python tire in the rear and a Maxxis CrossMark on the front and you're good to go. Man I'm starting to drool already I really need to find some way to squeeze that Anthem frameset into this years budget.
 
#18 ·
Some of it may also depend on what you want it for, your riding style, and where you're drawing the line between cheap, reasonable, and expensive. For myself, I'm on a Raleigh Mojave 4.0 that I got for about $400. It's basically the next up from the entry level Mojave. Overall, it's pretty good. Probably not the best, but I maintain it and keep things working well.

I have, however, concluded that I'm more into riding fire roads and other dirt roads than singletrack trails. Some of that may be because the geology where I live creates a lot of chert regolith that leads to trails consisting of fist-sized cobblestones and "baby heads." I loathe grinding over these long stretches of rubble. The well-worn sections over exposed bedrock or plain old dirt are a different story, though. Those are great.

Anyway, I had been looking at a cyclocross bike for the fire roads and such. One store was trying to sell me on a $1,100-$1,800 Specialized Tricross. For the money, it was a pretty good setup, and I could see you get what you pay for in a lot of the components. But another store recommended I just get some 700c rims and put them on my Mojave frame with some more cycloX-type tires. He was saying that the dirt roads around here are rough enough they'll destroy a cycloX in no time. I appreciated the advice and lack of a sales pitch like the other guy gave me. It was a plus that this was the LBS I bought my Mojave from.

I mostly ride roads during the week, and just today found a good round-trip route that takes me through some gravel/dirt road. I've concluded, however, that I think I'll stick with a mountain bike adapted for a road bias, keeping the 26" rims with slicks with just enough tooth for gravel and dirt. Some of the county roads are heavily travelled, and I like having the advantage of being able to get off onto the shoulder regardless of whether or not its paved. Many of the country folk here see a jersey and immediately paint a target on the person's back. It keeps me out of their way and earns a few brownie points being able to get off to the side... especially if an oncoming car would keep them from going around.

So I figure when the Mojave has seen better days, I'll stick with a mountain bike frame, but go with something with better components and a little lighter than the Mojave 4.0. It's aluminum, but still pretty heavy. I've hefted a few Cannondales at a local shop that are a lot lighter, but run around $600. For $1,000, it seems like overkill.

So, going back to the original point, some of it may be a balance between what's it worth to you for the price they're asking. For me, $400 was good for a solid entry-level one to get my feet wet and fitness built over a couple of years. When it comes time for a new one, $600 seems like a good baseline for build, better components, etc. Especially since I've sunk probably an extra $100 into the Mojave for a better seat, clipless pedals, better tires, etc. But around $1,000 would be my threshold for "more expensive than I need."
 
#20 ·
Most of the semi slicks folks had around here were still too knobby. I wound up putting some Geax Evolution tires on that are basically slicks with pronounced recesses. Between what some have said about cyclocross bikes getting destroyed on the cherty dirt roads around here and the way these babies roll, they're pretty much what convinced me that I'd stick with mountain bikes even for my road rides. It's nice to come across a new dirt/gravel road and know I can explore it if I want to. The only thing I'd warn against with them is downhilling fast enough on dirt or gravel that braking would be an issue. They'll slide pretty easily.

I don't know if I can attribute it all to the tires, but my road rides had been about 7-8 miles in 45 minutes. Yesterday was my first real outing with the Geax tires and I did a 13-mile tour in an hour and managed to defeat a couple of hills I previously had to walk. I also just put some cork tape on my bar ends for grip and a little comfort. The roadies are probably gonna think it's one bizarre contraption I'm cranking.
 
#21 ·
ZenZhu said:
Yesterday was my first real outing with the Geax tires and I did a 13-mile tour in an hour and managed to defeat a couple of hills I previously had to walk. I also just put some cork tape on my bar ends for grip and a little comfort. The roadies are probably gonna think it's one bizarre contraption I'm cranking.
Congrats on defeating those hills.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top