1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    difference in changing from 100mm to 120mm fork?

    Anyone have any advice for someone considering a new fork?

    I've always ridden 100mm fork, but lately have been considering a 120mm fork. I don't often do any major jumps/drops - but the trails I ride have several rocks, smaller drops and definitely a mixture of shorter ups and downs. If I had to say what "type of riding" - I'd say aggressive XC. I do weight in at 255 - so I'm a heavier rider, which means I'm not out winning any races...speed usually only comes from the downhill sections.

    My bikes geometry has a 73 degree STA, and 68 degree HTA (although I don't know what travel of fork is used when the manufacturer gives those measurements). Manufacturer also ships the frame typically w/ a U-Turn fork with a range of 85-130mm.

    Just don't know if 20mm is going to feel all that different.

    any thoughts?????

  2. #2
    local jackass
    Reputation: biggoofy1's Avatar
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    i went from 100mm to 120mm with no complaints or problems it will feel about 3/4 inch taller but thats all

    as for the fork itself look at the Rockshox Recon Race 120mm
    His
    2010 FSR XC
    2010 ALLEZ
    Hers
    2012 Myka 29'r
    2009 Cannondale Synapse 5
    Down East Cyclists

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kaba Klaus's Avatar
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    All other things equal you'd get:

    1) A more plush ride due to more travel and hence a fork able to smooth out rougher trails.

    2) A 1 deg slacker HTA adding stability on the DH but also making the front a bit lighter and twisty on steep climbs.

    Neither of the two effects is actually guaranteed. Plushness is also determined by the quality of the fork. An excellnt 100mm fork can be more plush than a crappy 120mm. The actual factor determining HTA is the axle to crown length of a fork. Depending on the manufacturer forks at the same travel can have 15mm different axle to crown lenght. In other words a fork with more travel could be as tall as your current fork.

    U-Turn comes in really handy. It allows you to play with the travel until you found your best setup. If needed you can still turn it up or down.
    "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit." - And I agree.

  4. #4
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    20mm( 3/4") may not sound like alot, but depending on what you are use to may be undesirable. I know some people who have said that they liked the slower steering. I do know that on some bike it can cause the bike to understeer. If you do decide to change the fork, I would suggest a change in stack height of the stem/bars to accomidate the increase in fork length. If anything this would allow the tire to bite more and decrease the tendence for some bikes to push in turns(understeer). That is not a huge jump though, so the increase in travel may be welcomed....

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