1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Diamondback Overdrive first ride

    Hey gang, so this morning I finally got to take my bike for our first ride , it was on the road, and it was interesting. I did about 10miles and it took about 55 mins ( according to the Strava App), I don't think that is too bad for a first timer!! I was reminded of some things and I learned somethings. First: Riding is FUN!!!!Second: It takes a while for your body to adjust to a bike, my first few miles EVERYTHING hurt and felt uncomfortable!!! Third: It is not a good idea to go through a puddle ( no matter how small) If you don't know how deep it is....and pedals are quick to cut your chins!!! Fourth: I strongly believe that padded shorts are a very good investment and I will be getting a few sets ASAP!! Fifth: I really hate the sound of a chain rubbing! my chain rubbed on the front derailleur when I had the bike in the 8th gear, and as discussed in a topic here I only used the 2nd cog on the front, and maybe 3 rear gears...I am going to look into removing the front derailleur and the cost for that so as much input on that is appreciated. Sixth: I don't like the front shock that much, I was doing a lot of reading recently on going rigid fork, but I haven't been on a trail to see if I would like that very much or not so that is up in the air for now. In all it was a very good first ride, need to get on any type of trail now to compare!
    1. 100% Bajan

  2. #2
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Don't be too quick to remove parts of your drivetrain. They're very useful when one climbs a hill with a rougher surface than the road.

    Really, don't try to come to any conclusions at all (well, I think you were right about the first thing) until you've gone for a couple more rides, you've taken the bike off-road, you've learned to tune your drivetrain, and you've figured out how to set up the bike for your body.

    What fork does your Overdrive have? They vary tremendously in whether or not they improve the ride...
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  3. #3
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    Yeah, I had to stop and adjust my seat I didn't feel like I was getting enough leg extension...I was playing around with my hand position a lot ( I think I should have worn gloves although I was on the road, My local Performance Bike store has free classes on mondays so I think I will start going to get familiar with bikes. My DB has the XCT v3 29 100mm fork
    1. 100% Bajan

  4. #4
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    You could swap on a rigid fork and have no reason to regret it later. Otherwise, try to avoid spending money on the bike for a while. Get a sense of what you're doing and get the equipment you have functioning as well as possible and fitted as well as possible. You're probably best off finishing out the season, at least.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  5. #5
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    I am seriously considering the rigid fork, but I will hold off on anything until I can get a lot more seat time. One good thing about being in Florida is that I can practically ride year round so I hopefully should be able to get in decent riding shape fairly quickly. If I had to get the rigid fork, what should I look for? Is there a specific size for 29ers? I have seen talk about corrected, non corrected, carbon, steel...it is all very confusing for a newbie
    1. 100% Bajan

  6. #6
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Nobody's holding a gun to your head. A rigid or decent-quality suspension fork will track better, weigh less, and not pogo. A decent-quality suspension fork will also make your ride smoother relative to the rigid fork.

    You'd want suspension-corrected. If money's an issue, get the Kona P2 or Surly Karate Monkey fork. If money's not an issue, return the bike and spend your "real" figure.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Nobody's holding a gun to your head. A rigid or decent-quality suspension fork will track better, weigh less, and not pogo. A decent-quality suspension fork will also make your ride smoother relative to the rigid fork.

    You'd want suspension-corrected. If money's an issue, get the Kona P2 or Surly Karate Monkey fork. If money's not an issue, return the bike and spend your "real" figure.
    LOL, I like that. I will look at the kona and the surly
    1. 100% Bajan

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