1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Derailleur Adjustment Woes

    So I've about written myself off at getting the front/rear derailleur to shift like a dream. I'm working with all SRAM X9 gear on a 3x10. *I've watched the pinkbike and other movies but still having trouble wrapping my head around getting this perfect. I might throw in the towel and take to the lbs for help I don't have a shop stand which is also making it difficult.

    I've got it about 90% of the way I think. Dealt with high/low limit screws and cable adjustment. I got the rear der to limit at the low cog nicely and not jump onto the frame. I can only get it to shift into the second to largest rear cog. The bike came with one of those noob plastic discs to keep the chain from going into the spokes. Any chance that's offsetting and not letting the der go into the large cog? *It doesn't shift very smoothly through the mid rings in the cassette either*

    The front der has been a headache as well. At this point I got it to where it will shift from granny to mid, mid to granny, mid to large, but it hesitates and sometimes won't shift from large to mid. What adjustment do I need to make I fix this?

    Any tips for a noob with fairly handy wrenching skills?

  2. #2
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    For the front I'll add two bits of info. The middle cable controlled positioning should be set with the shifter barrel adjuster taken into account. Open it 6 clicks then set the cable. You then have left and right adjustment range. I also shift the front to the small gear to remove all cable tension when the bike is not in use.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    For the front I'll add two bits of info. The middle cable controlled positioning should be set with the shifter barrel adjuster taken into account. Open it 6 clicks then set the cable. You then have left and right adjustment range. I also shift the front to the small gear to remove all cable tension when the bike is not in use.
    Thanks. Are you saying I should set the cable bolt with the barrel open 6 clicks and the der in the middle ring? If so what cog should I be in in the rear when doing this.. That's another question I had, as the videos don't make clear which gear combo I should be in when I set the cable (or maybe I missed it)

  4. #4
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Make sure you didn't screw up the indexing.

    Find the article on parktool.com and read through it. They're very well explained and illustrated. Might cover something the videos missed.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  5. #5
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    I hope I'm not thread jacking - but I have a quick question about the same derailleurs. I have a SRAM X9 rear derailleur from an old Hardrock 8 speed. I was wondering, could I used this with a 9 speed? I just need to change the cassette and shifter, right?

  6. #6
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    That should work.

    It's possible that adjusting the old rear derailleur will be a little more finicky.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  7. #7
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    Don't go any further if you are uncomfortable or lack confidence. 3x systems aren't my favorite either, so take it in if you think it needs it.

  8. #8
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    6 clicks is an example with my SLX shifter. It may take more. The object is to get it in the middle of the adjustment range when you set the cable middle ring to middle of the cassette range you use with that ring. Also check the ring mount bolts are tight so the rings don't distort under pedal pressure.

  9. #9
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    Thanks all. I took AndrwSwitch's advice and checked out the instructions on parktool.com reguarding indexing. Thanks Sir, your responses are always helpful

    The video on pinkbike didn't go into this too in depth. After another adjustment I got the front der. Another bit of fiddling with the rear and I'm confident I can get this right. Shop stand for this kind of work would make it much easier.. Know what my next buy is!

  10. #10
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    a workstand is a really important tool for the DIY bike repairman. I've seen some clever instructions here for ways to build them out of cheap materials if you can't stomach the cost of a purpose-built one.

    I got lucky and found one at a garage sale years ago. my favorite tool.

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