1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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  1. #1
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    Converting 1x9 to 2x9

    Just picked up a used 07 Rocky Mountain Slayer 30. The bike was setup for downhill and has Truvativ Hussefelt cranks with a 1x9 setup and MRP chain stays. My question is, what parts will I need to convert this to a 2 ring crankset? Does a front derailer come with a shifter and cable? My casette is an 11-34, what would be a good tooth count for the chain rings for all mountain riding?

    Sorry for so many questions and thanks in advance for any replies. New to mtb but not new to two wheels.

  2. #2
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    You will need a crank set ,shifter and derailluer.Cable and housing are cheep. No shifter and derailluer are seperate . Cranks come with chain rings ,tooth counts vary.Depending on how strong you are you could ride the 1x9.Can you mount a derailluer on that frame?Are there cable guides to run the cable on?I you wanted a little easier gear ,you could go to a 36 in the back.

  3. #3
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    I think it's mostly vanity that has people riding bigger rings than 32 and 22. It takes a pretty high speed to spin out 32/11 with decent cadence, and if the trails you ride are interesting, you won't be going that fast. 24/36 and 24/38 would work fine too, and probably have a little better availability. It's easy to get 22/32/bash by buying a triple crank and substituting the bash guard for the large chainring.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  4. #4
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    Yep, it is a pricey conversion. Probably $400 for mid grade stuff. The cranks are what get you.

    The post above mentioned going to a 36 in the back. You can also go down a size in the front, if that crank will take a smaller chainring. I think I would try that before dropping coin to convert it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fuglio View Post
    You guys suck im all bummed now

  5. #5
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    You could find used stuff on Ebay or CL to save some $ ,make sure you know what diameter your seat tube is and weather you need a top or bottom pull derailluer .

  6. #6
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    It has a 38 ring on it now, and on steep/technical climbs I don't have enough "low" gear to make it up about 40% of the time. So there is no way to convert these cranks to a 2 ring, the whole crankset has to be replaced? Kind of a bummer.

  7. #7
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Post a pic from the left side.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  8. #8
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    Don't know about those cranks,take a look at them to see if there are more mounting holes for more rings. Post a picture .

  9. #9
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  10. #10
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Hard to tell with that chain guard in the way. You can definitely mount another ring that's 32 teeth or larger. That would really be the easiest thing to do - just swap to a 32t ring and see if it's enough lower.

    To my eye, it doesn't look like there's a 64 mm bolt circle on that crank. So you can't mount a proper granny ring.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    I think it's mostly vanity that has people riding bigger rings than 32 and 22. It takes a pretty high speed to spin out 32/11 with decent cadence, and if the trails you ride are interesting, you won't be going that fast. 24/36 and 24/38 would work fine too, and probably have a little better availability. It's easy to get 22/32/bash by buying a triple crank and substituting the bash guard for the large chainring.
    Maybe that depends on how/where you ride. I have tried to live with 22/32, and could spin it out fairly easily. I could live with 36t, but I can spin it out on level (or close to level false flat/slightly downhill) trails, so I would prefer at least 38t (I have determined I can live with that).

    Two of my regular rides have a fire road section that is a mile or so of ever so slightly downhill right at the end of the ride. You can only tell it's not quite level because you can't ride it as fast in the other direction. When we hit a certain point, the sprint for the barn is ON! With a 32t (and the 11t cog out back), I've got no chance. My legs get torn off and fed to me. With a 36t, I have a pretty good chance if I use 'tactics' wisely , but if I'm on the gas too hard, too early, I can blow up too soon . With a 38t or larger, I can hold my own at a minimum, and usually inflict some serious pain with most that take the bait. . . . All in the name of fun, of course

    I'd rather run 3x with 22/32/42 than 22/32. JMHO.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigSteve in CO View Post
    Yep, it is a pricey conversion. Probably $400 for mid grade stuff. The cranks are what get you.
    ...snip.

    sell what you don't need Shimano SLX M670 Transmission Groupset

    or sell the brakes and RD and shifter and it would be a cheap conversion
    Shimano Deore M610 Disc Brake Groupset
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  13. #13
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    It is duty, I think I would try that before dropping coin to convert it.*********************l/ii6iY[/img]

  14. #14
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    Re: Converting 1x9 to 2x9

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    I think it's mostly vanity that has people riding bigger rings than 32 and 22. It takes a pretty high speed to spin out 32/11 with decent cadence, and if the trails you ride are interesting, you won't be going that fast. 24/36 and 24/38 would work fine too, and probably have a little better availability. It's easy to get 22/32/bash by buying a triple crank and substituting the bash guard for the large chainring.
    I know enduro racers on 39 x 11-36, 10 speed systems. Vanity? Maybe. Mutants? Yes.

    Sent from my HTC PH39100 using Tapatalk 2

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