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Thread: Chain Slap

  1. #1
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    Chain Slap

    I tried to look for some info on this and really couldn't find anything.

    When I'm riding the trails it seems to me and this may be normal that my chain bounces a lot and is constantly hitting the frame... it's really load...

    It hasn't yet come off however i was wondering if 1) this is normal and 2) is there something you should do to stop this from happening?


    thanks as always.</SPAN>

  2. #2
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    What type of bike, terrain, speed, and skill are you hitting it with?

    If you're getting tons of chainslap on flat terrain, riding slow, on a FS bike, I'd say something's awry.

    If you're getting slap hauling ass downhill through a rockgarden on a HT, I'd say welcome to the party, pal.

    You can wrap the chainstay in something thicker than tape or hard plastic, which might deaden the sound. My Specialized has a thick plasticy/rubbery thingamabob.

    And I read that clutch derailleurs help too.
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  3. #3
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    It is completely normal. There are several things you can do, the simplest one is putting a slap guard around your drive side chain stay. You could use an old tube or a purposely made foam guard. Another option is to get a type 2 derailleur, its a more expensive option and you need to be using a 10 speed drivetrain. You could also try and run a higher gear in the front and a lower in the back when descending to tighten the chain a bit more and somewhat reduce slap.

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Its XC mainly with looks of roots and rocks... i would say im moving at a decent click. My bike is a HT Devinci.

    I will assume its normal and look to get something to deaden the sound.

    thanks for the insight..

    Has anyone ever put a chain guide on to help or is that just a waste?

  5. #5
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    I was reading a post from a while ago saying it can help, but if you were going to buy one look at the other features too.

    If you frame is protected everything should be fine. It seems abelfonseca put it pretty well. Happy riding.
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  6. #6
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    Chain Slap

    Inner tube and zip ties are great to protect the frame from any slap.


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  7. #7
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    I just use a tube and a zip tie.. Wrap it a few times over itself by the the bb and then wrap it along the chainstay to the rear hub and put a zip tie around it. That way if I get some chain suck there is a lot of tube there.

    You could also adjust the cage spring si that it's keeping the chain tighter.. That's free also and takes 15 minutes.

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    Last edited by ou2mame; 09-05-2014 at 01:28 AM.

  8. #8
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    more drastic measures:

    1x drivetrain and a shorter derailleur. I have a 1x9 with a 32t narrow-wide ring up front and a short-cage derailleur. if it slaps the frame, I have not noticed.

    clutch derailleur- Shimano Shadow+ or SRAM Type II. both are 10-speed only last time I checked.

  9. #9
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    Chain Slap

    Quote Originally Posted by hawks View Post
    I tried to look for some info on this and really couldn't find anything.

    When I'm riding the trails it seems to me and this may be normal that my chain bounces a lot and is constantly hitting the frame... it's really load...

    It hasn't yet come off however i was wondering if 1) this is normal and 2) is there something you should do to stop this from happening?


    thanks as always.
    For all the suggestions of new gear, I am surprised that gear combo has not been mentioned more often.

    The more slack there is in your chain, the more that it is going to flop around and hit your chainstay.

    For this reason, lean toward a bigger ring /bigger cog combo rather than a smaller ring smaller cog combo. Get out of the granny as soon as you can. On a rough downhill, make sure you are in your middle or big ring, preferably the latter (assuming you have a 3x crank)

    If you have a 3x crank and do not use your big ring much, you could consider taking it off and replace it with a bash ring. This will allow you to shorten the chain a bit, which will reduce the amount of chain slack overall.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  10. #10
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    tips

    -wrap chainstay, this is the best thing to do it with (tough and non-sticky)
    Spiral Wrap – Cable Wrap with a Custom Fit

    -clutch rear derailleur, eliminates slap except for the hardest chunder and loosest cog config. really, clutch der are game changers

    -shift to big ring for all bumpy downhilling to take up slack

    -avoid small ring to small cog combinations, try for ratios which use the biggest ring and cogs for a given effort when possible. avoid crosschaining on a 3x (big to big) this creates excessive wear, on a 2x go for it


    -crank on the b-tension screw

    -move chain to big-big, and check takeup and cage angle, eliminate links you don't need

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    tips


    -crank on the b-tension screw

    Good advice except for this^ suggestion IMO, the b-screw is for gear adjustment- not to take up chain slack.

    Also I haven't found clutch derailleurs to be the magic bullet that a lot of people here have, I seem to get chain slap regardless of whether mine is on or off.

  12. #12
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    im giogn to start with putting a cover on and will try and remember to switch gears to the bigger rings when hitting the rought spots..

    Thanks for all the great advice!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Good advice except for this^ suggestion IMO, the b-screw is for gear adjustment- not to take up chain slack.

    Also I haven't found clutch derailleurs to be the magic bullet that a lot of people here have, I seem to get chain slap regardless of whether mine is on or off.
    yeah you are right, B is for adjusting the cogs to idler pulley distance...but it is still usable...

    using b-screw for chain slack is 'hobo method' and it has some effect on tension but increases cog/idler distance which might mess up shifting

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