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  1. #1
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    Can I use a sram xx front derailleur with shimano xt shifter pod and slx M665 cranks?

    Hey guys,

    My bike frame came with a sram xx front derailleur. I am setting my bike up for 2x10 but using a slx M665 front crank with a bashgaurd. The crank is a 36-22 with outer ring being bashguard. My question is, can I use the sram xx front derailleur with a shimano xt pod and slx crankset?
    Last edited by Hiebs915; 12-18-2012 at 08:49 AM.

  2. #2
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    Yes. You can even use it with a 3x shifter pod.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Yes. You can even use it with a 3x shifter pod.
    Your sure? I've asked some people before and others have said it doesn't work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Your sure? I've asked some people before and others have said it doesn't work.
    Fronts yes. Rears no.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Fronts yes. Rears no.
    Ok. Awesome.

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    But will it work with this crank? That is the question...

    [Bi_King] Shimano SLX M665 175mm Crankset BG-36-22t with Bottom Bracket(SM-BB70) | eBay

    Scroll down a little to see a picture. Its the shimano slx M665 with bashgaurd.

  7. #7
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    Yes

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    Yes. The crankset does not matter.

    Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

  9. #9
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    Yea, and if it's a 3 spd shifter, you can just tighten the high limit screw to only run the 2 rings.

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    Its weird everyone says yes in this thread... When I bought the crankset everyone told me I had to get a 3x shifter..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Yea, and if it's a 3 spd shifter, you can just tighten the high limit screw to only run the 2 rings.
    Can't the shimano xt shifter pods switch from 2x to 3x?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Can't the shimano xt shifter pods switch from 2x to 3x?
    A 3x shifter will always be a 3x shifter, and the ame goes for the 2x shifter. You can use a 3x shifter on a 2x but not the other way.

    -S

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    Hope you guys are right about using the Shimano SLX M665 crankset with sram xx front derailleur. I just sent back my other 3 speed shimano slx front derailleur.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Fronts yes. Rears no.
    Yeah, unless you use, Jtek product. You may be able to do it but not as crisp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Can't the shimano xt shifter pods switch from 2x to 3x?
    Yes, I can switch them from 2x to 3x.

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    Ok guys, I'm trying to getting the shifting all done and things aren't working out.

    I'm doing a 2x10 setup with the shimano M665 crankset. The rear derailleur is a shimano xt plus and the front derailleur is a sram xx. It seems I get rubbing on the front unless I'm in the smallets gear up front and largest in the back. I believe the sram xx is a 2x front derailleur, right?

    Do I set my shifter pod to 2x or 3x?

    I guess I'm pretty lost.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Ok guys, I'm trying to getting the shifting all done and things aren't working out.

    I'm doing a 2x10 setup with the shimano M665 crankset. The rear derailleur is a shimano xt plus and the front derailleur is a sram xx. It seems I get rubbing on the front unless I'm in the smallets gear up front and largest in the back. I believe the sram xx is a 2x front derailleur, right?

    Do I set my shifter pod to 2x or 3x?

    I guess I'm pretty lost.
    Yes, the SRAM XX is a 2-speed front derailleur.

    Let me understand your problem first.

    1. Can you set it to the small chainring properly?

    2. When you select big-rear/small-front, does the chain rub the cage?

    --> if it rubs the cage, it should rub on the inside (closer to frame) of the cage. If so, tighten the "L" travel screw on the front derailleur until the rubbing just stops.

    3. Set the front to the big chainring - can it reach the big ring?

    --> if it cannot reach the big chainring, then there's too much slack in the FD cable. Switch to the small chainring and then loosen the cable clamp, tighten cable, then tighten cable clamp. Try again to shift to big ring....

    4. When you select small-rear/big-front, does the chain rub the cage?

    --> If the chain rubs the cage, it should rub on the outside plate of the cage. If this is the case, loosen the "H" travel screw until the rubbing stops.
    --> If it rubs on the inside cage of the cage, there's still too much cable slack. You can tighten the cable adjuster on the shifter to take up this slack.

    5. When the rear is set to the middle gears (i.e. gear #5) the chain should line up almost straight to the front. Check for this.

    Let me know how it goes and we can probably help you more.

    -S

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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Yes, the SRAM XX is a 2-speed front derailleur.

    Let me understand your problem first.

    1. Can you set it to the small chainring properly?

    2. When you select big-rear/small-front, does the chain rub the cage?

    --> if it rubs the cage, it should rub on the inside (closer to frame) of the cage. If so, tighten the "L" travel screw on the front derailleur until the rubbing just stops.

    3. Set the front to the big chainring - can it reach the big ring?

    --> if it cannot reach the big chainring, then there's too much slack in the FD cable. Switch to the small chainring and then loosen the cable clamp, tighten cable, then tighten cable clamp. Try again to shift to big ring....

    4. When you select small-rear/big-front, does the chain rub the cage?

    --> If the chain rubs the cage, it should rub on the outside plate of the cage. If this is the case, loosen the "H" travel screw until the rubbing stops.
    --> If it rubs on the inside cage of the cage, there's still too much cable slack. You can tighten the cable adjuster on the shifter to take up this slack.

    5. When the rear is set to the middle gears (i.e. gear #5) the chain should line up almost straight to the front. Check for this.

    Let me know how it goes and we can probably help you more.

    -S
    I will try all of these things but first, do I set my shifter to 2x or 3x? And, when first aligning the front derailleur do I have it a couple mm above the bashguard or the largest chainring? I think it has to be the largest chainring because if the sram xx front derailleur is a 2x it will only work with two chainrings but I'm not too positive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    I will try all of these things but first, do I set my shifter to 2x or 3x? And, when first aligning the front derailleur do I have it a couple mm above the bashguard or the largest chainring? I think it has to be the largest chainring because if the sram xx front derailleur is a 2x it will only work with two chainrings but I'm not too positive.
    If you can switch it around, set it to 2x - probably better overall. I run my 3x shifter & 3x FD on my 2x10 setup. I got it set up so front shifter "ignores" gear #1 (locked out by tightening the "L" screw, and gears 2-3 select select the smaller and bigger chainrings respectively.

    Set it 1-3mm above the top of the biggest chainring.

    -S

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    If you can switch it around, set it to 2x - probably better overall. I run my 3x shifter & 3x FD on my 2x10 setup. I got it set up so front shifter "ignores" gear #1 (locked out by tightening the "L" screw, and gears 2-3 select select the smaller and bigger chainrings respectively.


    -S

    Set it 1-3mm above the top of the biggest chainring.

    So, 1-3mm above the actually chainring, not the bashgaurd?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Set it 1-3mm above the top of the biggest chainring.

    So, 1-3mm above the actually chainring, not the bashgaurd?
    how big is your large chainring?

    Try to set it 1-3 mm above the chainring and if it touches the bashguard, you will have to raise it to just clear the bashguard.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Yes, the SRAM XX is a 2-speed front derailleur.

    Let me understand your problem first.

    1. Can you set it to the small chainring properly?
    Yes, when the chain is in high-rear. The chain is right in the middle of the derailleur cage. What do you mean by "properly"?
    2. When you select big-rear/small-front, does the chain rub the cage?
    There is not rubbing during this time. The chain is right in the middle of the derailleur cage.
    --> if it rubs the cage, it should rub on the inside (closer to frame) of the cage. If so, tighten the "L" travel screw on the front derailleur until the rubbing just stops.

    3. Set the front to the big chainring - can it reach the big ring?
    It can reach the big ring but it is a little hesitant.
    --> if it cannot reach the big chainring, then there's too much slack in the FD cable. Switch to the small chainring and then loosen the cable clamp, tighten cable, then tighten cable clamp. Try again to shift to big ring....
    Ok, Done. It now catches the big ring quite easily. The chain is about 1mm or less front rubbing the outside of the derailleur at this point. In the big ring the derailleur cage runs into the bashguard too. Right now it is touching it but just barely. What do I do about this?
    4. When you select small-rear/big-front, does the chain rub the cage?
    Yes, the chain rubs the outside of the derailleur.
    --> If the chain rubs the cage, it should rub on the outside plate of the cage. If this is the case, loosen the "H" travel screw until the rubbing stops.
    The high travel screw is all the way loosened. The cage cant swing out anymore because its rubbing against the bashguard.
    --> If it rubs on the inside cage of the cage, there's still too much cable slack. You can tighten the cable adjuster on the shifter to take up this slack.

    5. When the rear is set to the middle gears (i.e. gear #5) the chain should line up almost straight to the front. Check for this.
    When it is in #5 the chain is almost completely straight.
    Let me know how it goes and we can probably help you more.

    -S
    I hope things work out with what I got...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    how big is your large chainring?

    Try to set it 1-3 mm above the chainring and if it touches the bashguard, you will have to raise it to just clear the bashguard.
    It is a 36 and 22.

    I'm going to wait and see what the poster above you says before I readjust everything. I think I've tried to set it just above the bashguard but then when I shift to small-rear and small-front the chain rubs on the bottom of the derailleur cage.

  24. #24
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    You shouldn't be riding your bike in little little or big big much anyways.That called cross chaining it more of a concern with triple. Like others have said the derailleur should be set 2-3 mm above the chain ring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    I hope things work out with what I got...
    Ok... lets do this from scratch. Lets reset everything --

    - Disconnect the cable from the front derailleur.

    - On your shifter, turn the adjuster all the way in, then back it out 1-1/2 turns.

    - Set the shifter to the first gear (click on the release) and pull out the shift cable at the other end.

    - Pull the front derailleur out to the big chainring by hand and make sure it clears the top of the chainring by 1-3 mm. If the bashguard is in the way and touches the cage, then adjust the derailleur mounting position up to clear the bash.

    Then move on to adjusting the low travel limit.

    Step 1.
    The derailleur should spring to the smaller chainring without the cable connected. Make sure you can turn the crank and everything rotates without catching the chain.

    Step 2.
    Set the rear derailleur to the biggest gear. In this position, the chain should just clear the inside plate of the FD cage (nearest the frame) if you look directly from the top. The clearance you are looking for is around 0.5mm (tiny clearance).

    --> If the chain touches the cage on the inside plate, then it is too close. Loosen the "L" screw on the FD until the chain just stops touching the cage.

    --> If the chain has too much clearance from the inside plate, tighten the "L" screw on the FD until the chain just touches the cage, then back the screw up a little so it does not touch it.

    Once this is done test through all the rear derailleur gears with the small front chainring.

    You then move on to setting the high travel limit:

    Step 3.
    Reconnect the front derailleur cable to the derailleur. Make sure you take out all the slack in the cable, and then tighten the cable clamp down.

    Step 4. Shift the front derailleur to the big chainring, and the rear to the smallest gear. In this position, the chain should just clear the outer plate of the FD cage when you look down directly from the top.

    --> If the front derailleur can't move to the "outside" far enough, loosen the "H" travel screw, and if there is not enough travel, then loosen (counter clockwise) the barrel adjuster on the shifter a little bit.

    --> If the chain touches the outside plate of the derailleur cage, loosen the "H" screw some more until it just clears the cage.

    --> If there is too much clearance, then tighten the "H" screw until the chain contacts the outer plate, then loosen it a little bit.

    The basic setting should be set and after this point all you need to do is tweak the barrel adjuster here on out.

    Step 5.
    Set the rear derailleur to gear #5 (the 5th gear from the smallest) and sight down the chainline from the back of the bike. The chain should be relatively straight from the rear to the front chainrings. Repeat this for both chainrings to double check.

    Step 6
    Run through all the gears, up and down the range, make sure everything shifts nicely.

    Step 7
    Take it for a test ride, adjust the barrel adjuster for small adjustments.

    Step 8
    Take a break and have a Kit-Kat.

    -S

  26. #26
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    Some rub is normal in certain selections, and usually means your in the wrong cogs/rings.

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    i think yes!

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    Sorry I've been late to respond. At my apartment I don't have anyway to work on the shifting. I will work on it more starting tomorrow evening. I usually hang the bike on the ceiling to work on it.

  29. #29
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    Well, when I went from a 3 ring to 2 ring w/bash, I raised my F Derail about a 1/16" since I went from
    22T to 24T. If I kept the 22T I would of just left it there. Then just set the outside limit screw to stop it going past the large ring and onto the bash, and your done. Since I went from a cartridge type BB
    to outboard type, I has to adjust the inner also because my chainline changed. I normally shoot
    for the chain to be centered in the derailuer when its in the middle rear cog or maybe the next one
    up. Just depends what selections you like to ride in the most as far as fine tuning the rub.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Ok... lets do this from scratch. Lets reset everything --

    - Disconnect the cable from the front derailleur.

    - On your shifter, turn the adjuster all the way in, then back it out 1-1/2 turns.

    - Set the shifter to the first gear (click on the release) and pull out the shift cable at the other end.

    - Pull the front derailleur out to the big chainring by hand and make sure it clears the top of the chainring by 1-3 mm. If the bashguard is in the way and touches the cage, then adjust the derailleur mounting position up to clear the bash.

    Then move on to adjusting the low travel limit.

    Step 1.
    The derailleur should spring to the smaller chainring without the cable connected. Make sure you can turn the crank and everything rotates without catching the chain.

    Step 2.
    Set the rear derailleur to the biggest gear. In this position, the chain should just clear the inside plate of the FD cage (nearest the frame) if you look directly from the top. The clearance you are looking for is around 0.5mm (tiny clearance).

    --> If the chain touches the cage on the inside plate, then it is too close. Loosen the "L" screw on the FD until the chain just stops touching the cage.

    --> If the chain has too much clearance from the inside plate, tighten the "L" screw on the FD until the chain just touches the cage, then back the screw up a little so it does not touch it.

    Once this is done test through all the rear derailleur gears with the small front chainring.

    You then move on to setting the high travel limit:

    Step 3.
    Reconnect the front derailleur cable to the derailleur. Make sure you take out all the slack in the cable, and then tighten the cable clamp down.

    Step 4. Shift the front derailleur to the big chainring, and the rear to the smallest gear. In this position, the chain should just clear the outer plate of the FD cage when you look down directly from the top.

    --> If the front derailleur can't move to the "outside" far enough, loosen the "H" travel screw, and if there is not enough travel, then loosen (counter clockwise) the barrel adjuster on the shifter a little bit.

    --> If the chain touches the outside plate of the derailleur cage, loosen the "H" screw some more until it just clears the cage.

    --> If there is too much clearance, then tighten the "H" screw until the chain contacts the outer plate, then loosen it a little bit.

    The basic setting should be set and after this point all you need to do is tweak the barrel adjuster here on out.

    Step 5.
    Set the rear derailleur to gear #5 (the 5th gear from the smallest) and sight down the chainline from the back of the bike. The chain should be relatively straight from the rear to the front chainrings. Repeat this for both chainrings to double check.

    Step 6
    Run through all the gears, up and down the range, make sure everything shifts nicely.

    Step 7
    Take it for a test ride, adjust the barrel adjuster for small adjustments.

    Step 8
    Take a break and have a Kit-Kat.

    -S
    When positioning the derailleur I run into problems. If I set it about 1mm above the bashguard with the chain being in the smallest cog on the crank the chain hits the bottom of the derailleur cage unless I'm in gears 9 or 10 in the rear.

  31. #31
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    Set it with it on the large ring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Set it with it on the large ring.
    The large chain ring in the rear or front?

    If I set it with it on the large chain ring the chain will still rub the bottom of the derailleur cage.
    With the chain being in small front the chain rubs the bottom of the cage in every gear except 10 in the rear.

  33. #33
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    A ring is front and a cog is rear. It must be set too high. I start with the middle cog in the rear. Make
    sure your not setting it to the bash also. You want it just above the large ring since it should'nt go
    beyond the ring anyway.

  34. #34
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    If both rings are the same tooth number as the last set then the original height should work. Look
    for a mark on the frame to find the original height if you can. Then you only have the in/out to adjust
    with the limit screws.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    A ring is front and a cog is rear. It must be set too high. I start with the middle cog in the rear. Make
    sure your not setting it to the bash also. You want it just above the large ring since it should'nt go
    beyond the ring anyway.
    I was told to put it just above the bash because otherwise when I shift to the large ring the outside of the derailleur rubs against the bashguard.

    If I set if just above the bash the derailleur is too high. So what do I do now?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    If both rings are the same tooth number as the last set then the original height should work. Look
    for a mark on the frame to find the original height if you can. Then you only have the in/out to adjust
    with the limit screws.
    It is not the same crank. Only same derailleur.

  37. #37
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    Use the limit screw to stop it from going all the way to the bash. A new crank won't change the
    height of the rings unless the ring has more or less teeth. A crank may be a bit wider or narrower,
    so the screw stops will let you adjust that difference. So if the rings are the same size and the
    BB is the same type, you would'nt haxe to change anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    When positioning the derailleur I run into problems. If I set it about 1mm above the bashguard with the chain being in the smallest cog on the crank the chain hits the bottom of the derailleur cage unless I'm in gears 9 or 10 in the rear.
    Look from the top - is the cage parallel to the chain line?

    -S

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Use the limit screw to stop it from going all the way to the bash. A new crank won't change the
    height of the rings unless the ring has more or less teeth. A crank may be a bit wider or narrower,
    so the screw stops will let you adjust that difference. So if the rings are the same size and the
    BB is the same type, you would'nt haxe to change anything.
    If I stop it early it doesn't go over far enough to move the chain up to the next ring.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Look from the top - is the cage parallel to the chain line?

    -S
    Isn't the cage suppose to be parallel to the rings?

  41. #41
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    Also be sure you have a 10 speed chain and rings. Maybe the bash don't have enough clearance
    to let a 9 speed chain lift to the upper ring. Just a thought.

  42. #42
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    Looking at mine, it does clear the bash, but it has plenty of room from the chain to the bottom
    of the derailuer. Post pics if you can also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Also be sure you have a 10 speed chain and rings. Maybe the bash don't have enough clearance
    to let a 9 speed chain lift to the upper ring. Just a thought.
    It is a 10 speed chain.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Looking at mine, it does clear the bash, but it has plenty of room from the chain to the bottom
    of the derailuer. Post pics if you can also.
    I will try.

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    Here's some pictures of the setup and showing how the chain touches the derailleur. The chain is in the smallest ring and largest cog.





  46. #46
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    My derailuer goes almost down to the chainstay. That one is either for a road bike or larger rings
    on the crank. Just a guess though. But yea, the channel on my dr drops down like 1.5" more than yours. Prolly cuz mine is a 3 speed and yours is a 2 speed larger ring type like a road bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    My derailuer goes almost down to the chainstay. That one is either for a road bike or larger rings
    on the crank. Just a guess though. But yea, the channel on my dr drops down like 1.5" more than yours. Prolly cuz mine is a 3 speed and yours is a 2 speed larger ring type like a road bike.
    That's an XX Fd meant for a mtn bike so its fine. I think the bash is too big and the op has to set the derailleur too high just to clear it.

    OP...how big are your chainrings?

    -S

    Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

  48. #48
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    He's runnin 22/36 i think
    That bike sooo clean and shiny!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    He's runnin 22/36 i think
    That bike sooo clean and shiny!
    Correct, it is a 22/36. The bashguard on it came with the crank. Its a package deal from shimano.

    The bike was just built the other day

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Correct, it is a 22/36. The bashguard on it came with the crank. Its a package deal from shimano.

    The bike was just built the other day
    How low can the FD go without touching the top or the (back) side of the guard?

    -S

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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    How low can the FD go without touching the top or the (back) side of the guard?

    -S
    Maybe a tiny bit more than in the picture but not much. The problem isn't so bad when I'm on the bike because the suspension compressed and brings the chain up a little with the rear. Still wish it would work though. With what I bought.

  52. #52
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    If I had a camera I would show you how mine drops way down for the small ring

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    Mine is similar in shape but it mounts farther down the frame and is more behind the bash than above it like yours. Mines also a bottom pull dr if that makes any dirrerence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Maybe a tiny bit more than in the picture but not much. The problem isn't so bad when I'm on the bike because the suspension compressed and brings the chain up a little with the rear. Still wish it would work though. With what I bought.
    How about tossing that (dorky) Shimano bash guard, and getting a smaller one sized for your 36" chainring... or even better, a BB-mounted bash? that way you can lower the derailleur to where its supposed to be. (I think Shimano deliberately designs their bashguards to be incompatible with SRAM derailleurs ...how's that for a conspiracy theory?)

    Something like this BB-mounted guard (make sure to order the BB mounted one).


    You can also get it from Jenson (they'll price match pricepoint)
    MRP XCG Bashguard > Components > Drivetrain > Bashguards | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    ....you could also go whole hog and get a chain guide/bashguard combo too.

    Like this (doesn't it look sexier than a dorky plastic disc bashguard?)





    Besides I'm running 2x10 and have not hit anything with my chainring... yet...

    -S
    Last edited by shibiwan; 12-22-2012 at 07:29 PM.

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    or maybe a BB mount DR idk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    or maybe a BB mount DR idk
    Those E-type front derailleurs require the frame to be compatible - it has to have a screw hole on the frame for one of the screws in the derailleur.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    How about tossing that (dorky) Shimano bash guard, and getting a smaller one sized for your 36" chainring... or even better, a BB-mounted bash? that way you can lower the derailleur to where its supposed to be. (I think Shimano deliberately designs their bashguards to be incompatible with SRAM derailleurs ...how's that for a conspiracy theory?)

    Something like this BB-mounted guard (make sure to order the BB mounted one).


    You can also get it from Jenson (they'll price match pricepoint)
    MRP XCG Bashguard > Components > Drivetrain > Bashguards | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    ....you could also go whole hog and get a chain guide/bashguard combo too.

    Like this (doesn't it look sexier than a dorky plastic disc bashguard?)





    Besides I'm running 2x10 and have not hit anything with my chainring... yet...

    -S
    If it really starts to irritate me I'll probably buy a BBG bashguard. I like protecting my rings. I've been some on another bike and would rather not on my new bike.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Those E-type front derailleurs require the frame to be compatible - it has to have a screw hole on the frame for one of the screws in the derailleur.
    Oh yea, the frames with the 3 ears on them.

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    There is some misinformation in this thread, and it's sad to see it dragging out over many weeks.

    0. Front derailer performance increases get vanishingly small as you go up from Shimano's or SRAM's midrange products. If you had gotten the correct X7 or SLX you'd have been riding on day 1.

    1. The advice you got was good, but incomplete. Knowledgeable folks chimed in that for front derailers, Shimano and SRAM use the same cable pull or actuation ratio or whatever, and so there is general compatibility between both companies front derailers and front shifters. But it is incomplete advice.

    2. The capacity of a XX front derailer is very low (15 T). Capacity is the maximum difference between the bigger and the smaller chain ring, measured in teeth. You want to run 36/22. 36-22=14T, which is good. But, you are right at the end of the FD's capacity. Which puts you in the pickle you're in. Capacity is proportional to the 'depth' of the cage, which one poster above pointed out looks a lot less on your XX. If you have the FD mounted to the seat tube high enough to clear the bash, you 'use' some of the capacity, and don't have enough for your small ring. Conversely, if you set it up to shift correctly, the cage of the FD is so close to the the uper ring's teeth that it will not clear the bash.

    3. The high mount XX FD is not compatible w/ the SLX 22/36/bash crankset out of the box. That should have been the answer given 4 weeks ago. Of course you can make it work, you can buy different stuff, you can tweak.

    Before doing anything else you should probably decide what you want your bike to run. You bought the SLX plus bash on purpose right? Then get a Shinano SLX 3x and be done w/ it. (or even better, read the tech docs for the crankset (chainwheel in Shimano-speak) and see which FD they recommend).

    Love the XX too much to part w/ it? Check into the 2X plus lightweight bashes that SRAM came out w/ last year.

    Good luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snfoilhat View Post
    There is some misinformation in this thread, and it's sad to see it dragging out over many weeks.

    0. Front derailer performance increases get vanishingly small as you go up from Shimano's or SRAM's midrange products. If you had gotten the correct X7 or SLX you'd have been riding on day 1.

    1. The advice you got was good, but incomplete. Knowledgeable folks chimed in that for front derailers, Shimano and SRAM use the same cable pull or actuation ratio or whatever, and so there is general compatibility between both companies front derailers and front shifters. But it is incomplete advice.

    2. The capacity of a XX front derailer is very low (15 T). Capacity is the maximum difference between the bigger and the smaller chain ring, measured in teeth. You want to run 36/22. 36-22=14T, which is good. But, you are right at the end of the FD's capacity. Which puts you in the pickle you're in. Capacity is proportional to the 'depth' of the cage, which one poster above pointed out looks a lot less on your XX. If you have the FD mounted to the seat tube high enough to clear the bash, you 'use' some of the capacity, and don't have enough for your small ring. Conversely, if you set it up to shift correctly, the cage of the FD is so close to the the uper ring's teeth that it will not clear the bash.

    3. The high mount XX FD is not compatible w/ the SLX 22/36/bash crankset out of the box. That should have been the answer given 4 weeks ago. Of course you can make it work, you can buy different stuff, you can tweak.

    Before doing anything else you should probably decide what you want your bike to run. You bought the SLX plus bash on purpose right? Then get a Shinano SLX 3x and be done w/ it. (or even better, read the tech docs for the crankset (chainwheel in Shimano-speak) and see which FD they recommend).

    Love the XX too much to part w/ it? Check into the 2X plus lightweight bashes that SRAM came out w/ last year.

    Good luck!
    I did buy the slx crank on purpose. I bought the slx front derailleur initially but people on this forum said I could use the sram xx derailleur I already had so I sent the slx back. Although the xx is lighter than the slx I wish I would have sold the xx and kept the slx.

    If I get another derailleur should I get a 3x or 2x?

  61. #61
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    3x or 2x is all up to you. But if yiu get a 2x that's all you can use up front. So if you will ever want to run a 3x later on you'll be able to with the 3x one.
    Last edited by Bataivah; 12-23-2012 at 07:15 PM.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    How about tossing that (dorky) Shimano bash guard
    -S
    Watch out, mountain bike fashion police

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbernick View Post
    Watch out, mountain bike fashion police


    -s

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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post


    -s
    it is kinda ugly

  65. #65
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    That's a nice crank. And yea, I think all composite bash guards have that plastic mold look, but that
    black looks pretty good with that frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBerNick View Post
    it is kinda ugly
    That's why I don't have any such monstrosities on my bike.

    -S

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    So if I got a thinner bashguard do any of you think I would would be able to lower the derailluer because it might now rub up against the bash?

    I have a 36 tooth ring so would I need a 36 bashguard or larger?
    Last edited by Hiebs915; 12-24-2012 at 12:45 PM.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    So if I got a thinner bashguard do any of you think I would would be able to lower the derailluer because it might now rub up against the bash?

    I have a 36 tooth ring so would I need a 36 bashguard or larger?
    I'd get a 36-38 bashguard, but before doing that, I would try putting some washers under the plastic bashguard to try to shim it out further so the derailleur can clear the bash when you lower it.

    -S

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