1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    How low can the FD go without touching the top or the (back) side of the guard?

    -S
    Maybe a tiny bit more than in the picture but not much. The problem isn't so bad when I'm on the bike because the suspension compressed and brings the chain up a little with the rear. Still wish it would work though. With what I bought.

  2. #52
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    If I had a camera I would show you how mine drops way down for the small ring

  3. #53
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    Mine is similar in shape but it mounts farther down the frame and is more behind the bash than above it like yours. Mines also a bottom pull dr if that makes any dirrerence.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Maybe a tiny bit more than in the picture but not much. The problem isn't so bad when I'm on the bike because the suspension compressed and brings the chain up a little with the rear. Still wish it would work though. With what I bought.
    How about tossing that (dorky) Shimano bash guard, and getting a smaller one sized for your 36" chainring... or even better, a BB-mounted bash? that way you can lower the derailleur to where its supposed to be. (I think Shimano deliberately designs their bashguards to be incompatible with SRAM derailleurs ...how's that for a conspiracy theory?)

    Something like this BB-mounted guard (make sure to order the BB mounted one).


    You can also get it from Jenson (they'll price match pricepoint)
    MRP XCG Bashguard > Components > Drivetrain > Bashguards | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    ....you could also go whole hog and get a chain guide/bashguard combo too.

    Like this (doesn't it look sexier than a dorky plastic disc bashguard?)





    Besides I'm running 2x10 and have not hit anything with my chainring... yet...

    -S
    Last edited by shibiwan; 12-22-2012 at 07:29 PM.

  5. #55
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    or maybe a BB mount DR idk

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    or maybe a BB mount DR idk
    Those E-type front derailleurs require the frame to be compatible - it has to have a screw hole on the frame for one of the screws in the derailleur.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    How about tossing that (dorky) Shimano bash guard, and getting a smaller one sized for your 36" chainring... or even better, a BB-mounted bash? that way you can lower the derailleur to where its supposed to be. (I think Shimano deliberately designs their bashguards to be incompatible with SRAM derailleurs ...how's that for a conspiracy theory?)

    Something like this BB-mounted guard (make sure to order the BB mounted one).


    You can also get it from Jenson (they'll price match pricepoint)
    MRP XCG Bashguard > Components > Drivetrain > Bashguards | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    ....you could also go whole hog and get a chain guide/bashguard combo too.

    Like this (doesn't it look sexier than a dorky plastic disc bashguard?)





    Besides I'm running 2x10 and have not hit anything with my chainring... yet...

    -S
    If it really starts to irritate me I'll probably buy a BBG bashguard. I like protecting my rings. I've been some on another bike and would rather not on my new bike.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Those E-type front derailleurs require the frame to be compatible - it has to have a screw hole on the frame for one of the screws in the derailleur.
    Oh yea, the frames with the 3 ears on them.

  9. #59
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    There is some misinformation in this thread, and it's sad to see it dragging out over many weeks.

    0. Front derailer performance increases get vanishingly small as you go up from Shimano's or SRAM's midrange products. If you had gotten the correct X7 or SLX you'd have been riding on day 1.

    1. The advice you got was good, but incomplete. Knowledgeable folks chimed in that for front derailers, Shimano and SRAM use the same cable pull or actuation ratio or whatever, and so there is general compatibility between both companies front derailers and front shifters. But it is incomplete advice.

    2. The capacity of a XX front derailer is very low (15 T). Capacity is the maximum difference between the bigger and the smaller chain ring, measured in teeth. You want to run 36/22. 36-22=14T, which is good. But, you are right at the end of the FD's capacity. Which puts you in the pickle you're in. Capacity is proportional to the 'depth' of the cage, which one poster above pointed out looks a lot less on your XX. If you have the FD mounted to the seat tube high enough to clear the bash, you 'use' some of the capacity, and don't have enough for your small ring. Conversely, if you set it up to shift correctly, the cage of the FD is so close to the the uper ring's teeth that it will not clear the bash.

    3. The high mount XX FD is not compatible w/ the SLX 22/36/bash crankset out of the box. That should have been the answer given 4 weeks ago. Of course you can make it work, you can buy different stuff, you can tweak.

    Before doing anything else you should probably decide what you want your bike to run. You bought the SLX plus bash on purpose right? Then get a Shinano SLX 3x and be done w/ it. (or even better, read the tech docs for the crankset (chainwheel in Shimano-speak) and see which FD they recommend).

    Love the XX too much to part w/ it? Check into the 2X plus lightweight bashes that SRAM came out w/ last year.

    Good luck!

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snfoilhat View Post
    There is some misinformation in this thread, and it's sad to see it dragging out over many weeks.

    0. Front derailer performance increases get vanishingly small as you go up from Shimano's or SRAM's midrange products. If you had gotten the correct X7 or SLX you'd have been riding on day 1.

    1. The advice you got was good, but incomplete. Knowledgeable folks chimed in that for front derailers, Shimano and SRAM use the same cable pull or actuation ratio or whatever, and so there is general compatibility between both companies front derailers and front shifters. But it is incomplete advice.

    2. The capacity of a XX front derailer is very low (15 T). Capacity is the maximum difference between the bigger and the smaller chain ring, measured in teeth. You want to run 36/22. 36-22=14T, which is good. But, you are right at the end of the FD's capacity. Which puts you in the pickle you're in. Capacity is proportional to the 'depth' of the cage, which one poster above pointed out looks a lot less on your XX. If you have the FD mounted to the seat tube high enough to clear the bash, you 'use' some of the capacity, and don't have enough for your small ring. Conversely, if you set it up to shift correctly, the cage of the FD is so close to the the uper ring's teeth that it will not clear the bash.

    3. The high mount XX FD is not compatible w/ the SLX 22/36/bash crankset out of the box. That should have been the answer given 4 weeks ago. Of course you can make it work, you can buy different stuff, you can tweak.

    Before doing anything else you should probably decide what you want your bike to run. You bought the SLX plus bash on purpose right? Then get a Shinano SLX 3x and be done w/ it. (or even better, read the tech docs for the crankset (chainwheel in Shimano-speak) and see which FD they recommend).

    Love the XX too much to part w/ it? Check into the 2X plus lightweight bashes that SRAM came out w/ last year.

    Good luck!
    I did buy the slx crank on purpose. I bought the slx front derailleur initially but people on this forum said I could use the sram xx derailleur I already had so I sent the slx back. Although the xx is lighter than the slx I wish I would have sold the xx and kept the slx.

    If I get another derailleur should I get a 3x or 2x?

  11. #61
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    3x or 2x is all up to you. But if yiu get a 2x that's all you can use up front. So if you will ever want to run a 3x later on you'll be able to with the 3x one.
    Last edited by Bataivah; 12-23-2012 at 07:15 PM.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    How about tossing that (dorky) Shimano bash guard
    -S
    Watch out, mountain bike fashion police

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbernick View Post
    Watch out, mountain bike fashion police


    -s

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post


    -s
    it is kinda ugly

  15. #65
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    That's a nice crank. And yea, I think all composite bash guards have that plastic mold look, but that
    black looks pretty good with that frame.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBerNick View Post
    it is kinda ugly
    That's why I don't have any such monstrosities on my bike.

    -S

  17. #67
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    So if I got a thinner bashguard do any of you think I would would be able to lower the derailluer because it might now rub up against the bash?

    I have a 36 tooth ring so would I need a 36 bashguard or larger?
    Last edited by Hiebs915; 12-24-2012 at 12:45 PM.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    So if I got a thinner bashguard do any of you think I would would be able to lower the derailluer because it might now rub up against the bash?

    I have a 36 tooth ring so would I need a 36 bashguard or larger?
    I'd get a 36-38 bashguard, but before doing that, I would try putting some washers under the plastic bashguard to try to shim it out further so the derailleur can clear the bash when you lower it.

    -S

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