1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #26
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    Some rub is normal in certain selections, and usually means your in the wrong cogs/rings.

  2. #27
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    i think yes!

  3. #28
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    Sorry I've been late to respond. At my apartment I don't have anyway to work on the shifting. I will work on it more starting tomorrow evening. I usually hang the bike on the ceiling to work on it.

  4. #29
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    Well, when I went from a 3 ring to 2 ring w/bash, I raised my F Derail about a 1/16" since I went from
    22T to 24T. If I kept the 22T I would of just left it there. Then just set the outside limit screw to stop it going past the large ring and onto the bash, and your done. Since I went from a cartridge type BB
    to outboard type, I has to adjust the inner also because my chainline changed. I normally shoot
    for the chain to be centered in the derailuer when its in the middle rear cog or maybe the next one
    up. Just depends what selections you like to ride in the most as far as fine tuning the rub.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Ok... lets do this from scratch. Lets reset everything --

    - Disconnect the cable from the front derailleur.

    - On your shifter, turn the adjuster all the way in, then back it out 1-1/2 turns.

    - Set the shifter to the first gear (click on the release) and pull out the shift cable at the other end.

    - Pull the front derailleur out to the big chainring by hand and make sure it clears the top of the chainring by 1-3 mm. If the bashguard is in the way and touches the cage, then adjust the derailleur mounting position up to clear the bash.

    Then move on to adjusting the low travel limit.

    Step 1.
    The derailleur should spring to the smaller chainring without the cable connected. Make sure you can turn the crank and everything rotates without catching the chain.

    Step 2.
    Set the rear derailleur to the biggest gear. In this position, the chain should just clear the inside plate of the FD cage (nearest the frame) if you look directly from the top. The clearance you are looking for is around 0.5mm (tiny clearance).

    --> If the chain touches the cage on the inside plate, then it is too close. Loosen the "L" screw on the FD until the chain just stops touching the cage.

    --> If the chain has too much clearance from the inside plate, tighten the "L" screw on the FD until the chain just touches the cage, then back the screw up a little so it does not touch it.

    Once this is done test through all the rear derailleur gears with the small front chainring.

    You then move on to setting the high travel limit:

    Step 3.
    Reconnect the front derailleur cable to the derailleur. Make sure you take out all the slack in the cable, and then tighten the cable clamp down.

    Step 4. Shift the front derailleur to the big chainring, and the rear to the smallest gear. In this position, the chain should just clear the outer plate of the FD cage when you look down directly from the top.

    --> If the front derailleur can't move to the "outside" far enough, loosen the "H" travel screw, and if there is not enough travel, then loosen (counter clockwise) the barrel adjuster on the shifter a little bit.

    --> If the chain touches the outside plate of the derailleur cage, loosen the "H" screw some more until it just clears the cage.

    --> If there is too much clearance, then tighten the "H" screw until the chain contacts the outer plate, then loosen it a little bit.

    The basic setting should be set and after this point all you need to do is tweak the barrel adjuster here on out.

    Step 5.
    Set the rear derailleur to gear #5 (the 5th gear from the smallest) and sight down the chainline from the back of the bike. The chain should be relatively straight from the rear to the front chainrings. Repeat this for both chainrings to double check.

    Step 6
    Run through all the gears, up and down the range, make sure everything shifts nicely.

    Step 7
    Take it for a test ride, adjust the barrel adjuster for small adjustments.

    Step 8
    Take a break and have a Kit-Kat.

    -S
    When positioning the derailleur I run into problems. If I set it about 1mm above the bashguard with the chain being in the smallest cog on the crank the chain hits the bottom of the derailleur cage unless I'm in gears 9 or 10 in the rear.

  6. #31
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    Set it with it on the large ring.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Set it with it on the large ring.
    The large chain ring in the rear or front?

    If I set it with it on the large chain ring the chain will still rub the bottom of the derailleur cage.
    With the chain being in small front the chain rubs the bottom of the cage in every gear except 10 in the rear.

  8. #33
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    A ring is front and a cog is rear. It must be set too high. I start with the middle cog in the rear. Make
    sure your not setting it to the bash also. You want it just above the large ring since it should'nt go
    beyond the ring anyway.

  9. #34
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    If both rings are the same tooth number as the last set then the original height should work. Look
    for a mark on the frame to find the original height if you can. Then you only have the in/out to adjust
    with the limit screws.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    A ring is front and a cog is rear. It must be set too high. I start with the middle cog in the rear. Make
    sure your not setting it to the bash also. You want it just above the large ring since it should'nt go
    beyond the ring anyway.
    I was told to put it just above the bash because otherwise when I shift to the large ring the outside of the derailleur rubs against the bashguard.

    If I set if just above the bash the derailleur is too high. So what do I do now?

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    If both rings are the same tooth number as the last set then the original height should work. Look
    for a mark on the frame to find the original height if you can. Then you only have the in/out to adjust
    with the limit screws.
    It is not the same crank. Only same derailleur.

  12. #37
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    Use the limit screw to stop it from going all the way to the bash. A new crank won't change the
    height of the rings unless the ring has more or less teeth. A crank may be a bit wider or narrower,
    so the screw stops will let you adjust that difference. So if the rings are the same size and the
    BB is the same type, you would'nt haxe to change anything.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    When positioning the derailleur I run into problems. If I set it about 1mm above the bashguard with the chain being in the smallest cog on the crank the chain hits the bottom of the derailleur cage unless I'm in gears 9 or 10 in the rear.
    Look from the top - is the cage parallel to the chain line?

    -S

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Use the limit screw to stop it from going all the way to the bash. A new crank won't change the
    height of the rings unless the ring has more or less teeth. A crank may be a bit wider or narrower,
    so the screw stops will let you adjust that difference. So if the rings are the same size and the
    BB is the same type, you would'nt haxe to change anything.
    If I stop it early it doesn't go over far enough to move the chain up to the next ring.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    Look from the top - is the cage parallel to the chain line?

    -S
    Isn't the cage suppose to be parallel to the rings?

  16. #41
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    Also be sure you have a 10 speed chain and rings. Maybe the bash don't have enough clearance
    to let a 9 speed chain lift to the upper ring. Just a thought.

  17. #42
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    Looking at mine, it does clear the bash, but it has plenty of room from the chain to the bottom
    of the derailuer. Post pics if you can also.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Also be sure you have a 10 speed chain and rings. Maybe the bash don't have enough clearance
    to let a 9 speed chain lift to the upper ring. Just a thought.
    It is a 10 speed chain.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    Looking at mine, it does clear the bash, but it has plenty of room from the chain to the bottom
    of the derailuer. Post pics if you can also.
    I will try.

  20. #45
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    Here's some pictures of the setup and showing how the chain touches the derailleur. The chain is in the smallest ring and largest cog.





  21. #46
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    My derailuer goes almost down to the chainstay. That one is either for a road bike or larger rings
    on the crank. Just a guess though. But yea, the channel on my dr drops down like 1.5" more than yours. Prolly cuz mine is a 3 speed and yours is a 2 speed larger ring type like a road bike.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    My derailuer goes almost down to the chainstay. That one is either for a road bike or larger rings
    on the crank. Just a guess though. But yea, the channel on my dr drops down like 1.5" more than yours. Prolly cuz mine is a 3 speed and yours is a 2 speed larger ring type like a road bike.
    That's an XX Fd meant for a mtn bike so its fine. I think the bash is too big and the op has to set the derailleur too high just to clear it.

    OP...how big are your chainrings?

    -S

    Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

  23. #48
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    He's runnin 22/36 i think
    That bike sooo clean and shiny!

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bataivah View Post
    He's runnin 22/36 i think
    That bike sooo clean and shiny!
    Correct, it is a 22/36. The bashguard on it came with the crank. Its a package deal from shimano.

    The bike was just built the other day

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiebs915 View Post
    Correct, it is a 22/36. The bashguard on it came with the crank. Its a package deal from shimano.

    The bike was just built the other day
    How low can the FD go without touching the top or the (back) side of the guard?

    -S

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