1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Buying bike with different derailleurs: Front Acera, Rear Deore

    I was going to buy the 500HT Motobecane for 379.99 from bikesdirect.com.

    Save Up to 60% Off Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane 500HT

    The front derailleur is an Shimano Acera and the rear derailleur is an Shimano Deore.

    I read that Deore is the entry level drive train and Acera is a basic drivetrain compared to the Deore.

    I will just be riding on bike sidewalks, and forest trails once every week.
    Do I really need a Deore drivetrain or can I stick with a bike that has a rear Shimano Acera derailleur and a front 8 speed index derailleur.

    I would really like to get the Dawes Haymaker 1500 for 449.00 because it has front and rear Deore derailleurs.
    Save Up to 60% Off Mountain Bikes - MTB - Dawes Haymaker 1500

    ( I dont even know if thats a important factor though since this is my first bike) Ij just know Deore derailleurs are better than Acera or a basic Shimano 8 speed index. I also cant afford it right now because I need a new car with AC, but if it is really justifiable to have the Haymaker 1500 bike I can work a little extra to get it. But if having one Deore derailleur and one Acera derailleur doesnt make much of a difference i rather get the cheaper bike.


    THANK YOU

  2. #2
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    I've found that anything above the tourney line front derailleurs are all pretty much the same. The more expensive, the more metal. But you can pick up a deore front for like 25 bucks if it really bothers you but I've set up plenty of them and they work fine. The rear is the one you want to really worry about. I'm on my phone so I'm not gonna go price check components to price on all their bikes, but i would go with one that had the best gear. I know a month ago they still had a Windsor something cliff that had a dart fork in that price range which is much better than the suntour on the current models. I would be more worried about the fork than the front derailleur.

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  3. #3
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    Seems like you will find many if not most bikes have a different level (or some even have a different brand FD) front derailleur than the rear derailleur. Part of this is because they will put a higher level rear derailleur on a bike, and then say it has an "X" level "drivetrain" when in reality, it only has that level rear derailleur.

    It's nothing I would be concerned with. The things I would be concerned with are (in order, although not necessarily always in this order):

    1) Fit - if it doesn't fit, not much else matters. This is ALWAYS at the top of the list IMHO.
    2) Fork - a crappy fork is not a joy on rough trails.
    3) Wheelset - a well built wheelset with at least decent parts is important if you're going to push the performance envelope.
    4) Brakes - even if they are budget brakes, they need to work well, and some budget brakes are not horrible. Poorly working brakes can be a nightmare.
    5) Tires - tires are at the top of the list for wear items, but they are your connection to mother earth, and they are not cheap these days. If you need to swap them out immediately, a good set of tires will run you $100 to $180, which could put you much closer to a nicer wheelset , fork, or brakes.
    6) Drivetrain - even lower level drivetrains can be quite serviceable. Some X.5 or Deore level parts here and there won't kill you. I am even fine with Acera stuff in some places. XT is great, but if I could have a better fork or wheelset instead of XT cranks and shifters, count me in.
    7) Controls - you can peck away at these types of things as time goes by.

  4. #4
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    That $80 Walmart bike is a good option, but...
    For your intended riding you could benefit from a 29er.
    The BD Gravity Point1 is 419 and has Alivio/Deore components. It has better geo than a Motobecane 29 because of the shorter chain stays. It will have quicker steering.
    The Suntour fork is ok for bike paths and dirt roads. It doesn't matter on pavement.
    If you start riding trails with lots of bumps in the future Suntour has an upgrade program for $200 to a good mid-level Raidon air fork.

  5. #5
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    I have had an Altus FD (lower than Acera) for 3 years now doing mainly offroad riding. I don't ride a ton but I would get a few rides in a week in the fall and spring. It has held up fine though the performance could be a bit better I suppose. I also have Alivio shifters and RD and everything has held up fine. If you are just using it on bike paths and maybe a little offroad the componentry should be suitable for your level of riding.

    For the same price as your 2nd, if you decide you want a little bit more, this looks like a good option.

    Save up to 60% off new Mountain Bikes - MTB - Windsor Cliff 4900 Mountain Bikes

    Rockshox fork and some other nice points on the bike.

  6. #6
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    Is the Rockshox Dart 2 better than the Sunfork XCT?

  7. #7
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    Yes

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  8. #8
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    Front Mech generally is one of the cheapest pieces of your drivetrain. Don't get hung up on it. Front D's won't make a big difference in your riding.
    2010 D440 Redline Rigid 1x9
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by max3 View Post
    Is the Rockshox Dart 2 better than the Sunfork XCT?
    They are both undampened coil spring forks with preload adjustment. Not much different between them.

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