1. The most important thing about buying a new
bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right
for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches
your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
|
 |
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will
let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut
it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should
be no different.
|
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because
your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean
that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your
needs and ability.
|
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Bike upgrade - New Frame/New fork
So after cracking my RST Gila fork (left arch snapped) I've decided to upgrade to something a bit better.
My current frame is an Apollo Ascent 2008 model (http://goo.gl/E3z0a) in small.
I found this Rockshox Tora 302 U-Turn. (RockShox Tora 302 | Trade Me) Due to that fork being 130mm max travel, my current frame could get damaged because the current fork is 100mm.
I could pickup a GT Chucker 1.0 (2005) Frame for $55 (GT Chucker 1.0 Frame (Medium) | Trade Me), then transfer everything over to the Chucker frame.
Will this combination work well? Will the steerer tube need to be cut? What about the headset/bearings?
I guess I could just shorten the travel on the fork to 100mm-120mm and just use my current frame.
I will use it for mostly cross country, and *some* downhill.
Specs: Apollo Ascent 2008 frame, Avid BB5 brakes, XT shifters, LX rear der, RST Gila(broken), Truvativ cranks, Alex Ace 17 rims, Easton bars, Cane Creek headset.
-
Weird spec. They don't give you much of a fork.
I'd just throw the Tora in there. People go +/- 20 mm pretty frequently. You're doing more than that, but you also have the U-turn knob.
I think you'll run into funky handling before you actually damage the head tube. And if you do, you can look for a new frame then.
I don't know the answer to your compatibility questions. Or rather, I'm pretty sure you're fine for head tube diameter/steerer diameter/headset. But the seller doesn't say anything about how long the fork's steerer tube is and neither do you. So it would be good to find out how much steerer tube that Tora has, and figure out how much you need it to have.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
-
Yea, alot of forks for sale have too short of a steerer, so it's useless. Check your old forks to see the min. length you need before you buy a set.
Don't buy them if you don't know the length of it.
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
The RockShox Tora 302's steerer length is 240mm. I'll have to check my current forks, but it seems like it should be fine.
I don't think the GT Chucker has a headset installed.. Would I just transfer the headset somehow out of my current frame?
Thanks for the input!
-
Headsets have a million different standards lately. If your bike and the GT frame have matching headsets, you can move it over. If they don't, you need a new headset. There are only a few standards for steerer tube diameter, though, so at least that's still not too hard.
I don't think a frame swap is a good way forward here. In order for that to work, you also need matching seat tube sizing, matching routing and clamp placement for the front derailleur, and matching bottom bracket standards. You're almost guaranteed to run into some extra costs. You're also rolling the dice on frame sizing.
If you're really worried about the fork, why not just get one that's the spec travel?
What's "*some* downhill?" Do you mean shuttle days, or just that you like it when trails go back down the mountain?
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
I'll probably just get the forks then, if I get a decent price. I'll ride them at 120mm.
By some downhill I mean just taking the shuttle up.
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Just checked the steerer of my forks ; they are 185mm. The Tora are 240mm, so would I just use some spacers or would I just get it cut off?
-
 Originally Posted by bikeman1
Just checked the steerer of my forks ; they are 185mm. The Tora are 240mm, so would I just use some spacers or would I just get it cut off?
If you keep the stem you have now, and if you don't want another 55mm of height adjustability, cut it off. I would likely cut it down some. Make sure you have assembled everything before marking to cut the excess off. It is hard to add it back.
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Thanks. Another question, At what height should the handle bars be placed once I've got the new forks installed?
-
Steerer tubes don't have to be cut, spacers can be added in at the top of the stem if the are too long.
 Originally Posted by bikeman1
Thanks. Another question, At what height should the handle bars be placed once I've got the new forks installed?
Depends on where you are comfortable with them.
BTW, never post your auction finds.
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Are the Rockshox Recon Sliver TK's better than the Rockshox Tora 302's? Recon's have 100mm travel and are air forks.
-
I like air personally, and are lighter. So I like the Recon. With the stem, I normally cut my forks with 40mm spacers added to the stem (20mm/10mm/10mm) so I can always have the option to adjust them up or down. If you cut to stem length thats all you got and your
stuck with only that hieght.
-
This may be common sense but remember to add an additional 40mm on top of the combined height of the spacers to fit the average stem. :P
-S
-
I toss on all the spacers and the stem, then mark it. I tried the caliper way of doing it, and it was a waste of time. But yea, it seems most stems are also 40 mm tall if you want to go the caliper route.
-
 Originally Posted by bikeman1
Are the Rockshox Recon Sliver TK's better than the Rockshox Tora 302's? Recon's have 100mm travel and are air forks.
Make sure it's the Recon Silver TK Single Air before you buy it. The Tora is fine but is a little bit heavier.
-S
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Yep, it is. Lol I didn't realize solo and single were the same
Last edited by bikeman1; 11-20-2012 at 08:53 PM.
-
Read some reviews on the damping systems before you spend your money.
Last time I researched it, I decided I'd want to go with the Recon Gold. It comes out of the box with a much better-regarded and more tunable damper.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
-
Both Recons are better than Tora for sure. Depends whats on sale if you like a bargain, or if money
grows on trees just get a Reba/Sidd etc. or Fox
-
 Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch
Read some reviews on the damping systems before you spend your money.
Last time I researched it, I decided I'd want to go with the Recon Gold. It comes out of the box with a much better-regarded and more tunable damper.
I believe it is a budgetary issue for the OP at this point.... :P
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Haha, yep, I'll try and get a deal on the Tora's tomorrow, if not, I'll get the Recon's.
What do you guys think is a good offer for the Tora 302's? - just been serviced, seals dampers replaced.
And what about the Recon Silver TK Air Solos? - had about 6 hours use.
Thanks for the input
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
OH DAMN! The Recon was sold for $200NZ. Oh well. I'll try get the Tora's i guess.
-
Wait till thursday...er... friday... (or is it saturday for you guys) and pick it up from a thanksgiving sale in the states?
-S
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Could do, would be expensive shipping I guess.
-
mtbr member
Reputation:
Unfortunately I didn't win the auction on the Tora's. Oh well.. What do you guys think of the Rockshox XC30? Will it be better than my RST Gila RL's (2007). How do they compare to Recon/Tora?
Wiggle | RockShox XC30 Turnkey Coil 100mm Suspension Fork - 2012 | Forks
-
Probably better than what you've got, IMO still a waste of your time.
Historically, at least, the Turnkey damper was a plastic thing that could be damaged a lot more easily than the Motion Control damper, which is the one in their more serious forks. You need to research it yourself, of course, but my understanding was that this will drop into any of the 32 mm stanchion forks, and not something smaller, like the XC30.
Even if going straight to the fork with the "real" damper is too expensive for now, you can future-proof yourself a bit by making sure to buy a fork that will accept it if you kill the Turnkey (or whatever) damper.
Another thing to think about is just sticking a rigid fork on there and calling it a day.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|