1. The most important thing about buying a new
bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right
for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches
your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will
let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut
it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should
be no different.
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3. Don't belive the hype. Just because
your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean
that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your
needs and ability.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
Best chain lube?
So right now, I have pro link lube and it does not seem to be what I am looking for. It does not last long at all. Down here in South Carolina the trails are dry sand or dry dirt with some mud puddles here and there. What's the best lube? I was looking at Phil Wood's tenacious oil and I like the fact that it is a really thick viscosity so it will stick better, but is the dirt attraction that bad? Whats the best lube that will stay on for trail riding? It seems most of the lubes are geared towards road bikes that do not ride through dirt, AKA thin, watery oil/lubes. Also how often do you clean your drive train? It seems like mine needs to be cleaned after a 20 mile ride. I can feel the sand and dirt in it after 1 ride. Then how often should I apply the lube?
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Wyoming mtn. Biker
Reputation:
I've had good luck using Finish Line Dry in the types of conditions you described in your post, and have been using it almost exclusively for about the last five years. Follow the instructions, wiping of any excess following application, and it does a good job lubing your chain with out leaving an oily residue that attracts dirt.
As far as how often to clean your drive train - depends on what your riding conditions have been and how dirty your chain and drive train are. I've had great luck using the Finish Line chain cleaner (the one that attaches to your chain) using Simple Green cleaner as the solvent. Under normal conditions for me, I usually clean my chain and drive train every few rides. Hope that helps.............
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Here in Georgia we have similar dry dusty trails. I used Rock n Roll Blue, a dry lube, which worked fine.
I am now using this because it is cheap and readily available.
DuPont Teflon Chain Saver, 11 oz: Automotive : Walmart.com I am tracking wear on a new chain, and it appears to be performing well.
I basically clean my chain every time I lube it. With either of these lubes and the Finish Line wyo_biker mentions (which I've heard great things about too), you wet the chain thoroughly with it so it washes off the dirt, pedal in both directions, then wipe it dry. Ideally let sit for 1/2 hour or more before riding to give the wax time to harden.
I got in a situation similar to yours with my new bike. Used an oil-based lube in addition to the factory grease and had a greasy mess. I soaked it in gasoline several times until all the sand etc. was washed out, then used the Rock & Roll from then on. I got 1100 miles from this chain -- not great but not horrible either.
For my new chain, I soaked it in the DuPont stuff a few seconds then wiped off the outside to get rid of the factory grease on the outside. Hopefully there is some left inside, but if not I know at least the Teflon is in there.
I lube every 3rd ride, which averages 10 - 15 miles for me, or EVERY TIME it get wet. The DuPont Chain Saver is inexpensive, so I don't need to be stingy with it.
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 Originally Posted by Otruba_843
I was looking at Phil Wood's tenacious oil and I like the fact that it is a really thick viscosity so it will stick better, but is the dirt attraction that bad?
Yes. Phil is good for a lot of things but I don't like it on chains, sand and dirt will adhere to it like glue and if you're not careful you can shell a drivetrain in no time.
There is no magic bullet IMO. Lube it thoroughly and wipe off all excess, repeat as necessary. I like Tri-flo but there are are a lot of other good ones.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
 Originally Posted by J.B. Weld
Yes. Phil is good for a lot of things but I don't like it on chains, sand and dirt will adhere to it like glue and if you're not careful you can shell a drivetrain in no time.
There is no magic bullet IMO. Lube it thoroughly and wipe off all excess, repeat as necessary. I like Tri-flo but there are are a lot of other good ones.
Then what is tenacious oil used for?
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mtbr member
Reputation:
My opinion/experience with Finish Line has been great. Its cheap and it works. I use the dry lube when its really dusty and wet lube for 'normal' to all out mud & wet. Make sure when you use wet lube to not use an excessive amount as it will just attract more grit with no benefit. It appears the dry lube needs at least 24 hours to dry properly. I normally need to clean my chain after 30-50 miles of 'normal' conditions. I had a really muddy ride at Moore's Springs the other day so I had to clean after only 10 miles. Theres really not a set milage to clean (for me), rather just when it needs it. PS I'm in the NC triad.
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 Originally Posted by Otruba_843
Then what is tenacious oil used for?
Lots of things- threads, pivots, spoke nipples, etc. I'm a big fan and have used it for years and even tried it on chains back in the day but it never really worked out for that purpose, for me anyway.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
i use rock-n-roll blue, they have a red and gold also but i have not used those here is a link hope it helps
Rock"N"Roll Lubrication - Products - Bicycle Lube - Extreme Chain Lube
2013 specialized stumjumper fsr comp
2013 surly ogre
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