1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    26x1.5 vs 26x1.75 wheelset

    converting my rear wheels to disc brake and found these:

    Wheel Rear 26 x 1.5 Sun RhynoLite, Blk, Deore M525 Disc 9sp, 2.0 Blk SS Spokes,

    Sun Rhyno Lite 32H shimano Deore 8/9 SP Cass QR Disc 26 x 1.75" Black/Black Whee

    my front right now is an old Mavic X225 (22mm width) which one would be the same size? i don't get the 1.5 and 1.75 difference. i'm assuming 1.75 is wider(?) but can't find any info confirming it. is wider rims better? thanks guys!

  2. #2
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    The second link you have says that the rim has a 27mm width, but it doesn't say whether that's the inner or outer width. Regardless, that's nowhere near 1.75", which is somewhere in the neighborhood of 43-45mm. It's Friday afternoon, so I'm not about to pull out a calculator to get an exact conversion. One inch is equal to 25.4mm, FWIW.

    My best guess is that the 1.5" and 1.75" in the post titles is the recommended tire size for the respective wheels. A benefit of wider rims is that wider tires will spread out more, allowing you to run lower pressures and increase available traction. That's why fat bikes have rims that are 80-100+ millimeters across. An extreme example in terms of fat tires and fat rims, but the logic applies for all tires and rims.
    I've made some bad decisions like taking the gears off my bike. So here's the warning: Do not as I say, nor as I do.

  3. #3
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    Do you already have a disc brake on the front? If you're only going to have one disc brake, you'll probably want it on the front. Looking at other sites, both rims look to be around 27mm. I don't know what the 1.0 and 1.75 refer to.

  4. #4
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    thanks! that pretty much answers it i guess, could be the minimum tire width. it's so confusing how they use the numbers... should i just go for the 1.75 (27mm) one since it might mean it's the wider of the two?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ckeyeus View Post
    Do you already have a disc brake on the front? If you're only going to have one disc brake, you'll probably want it on the front. Looking at other sites, both rims look to be around 27mm. I don't know what the 1.0 and 1.75 refer to.
    Yes, I already have disc in the front. Just 22mm wide rim though (outside)...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by db_8 View Post
    thanks! that pretty much answers it i guess, could be the minimum tire width. it's so confusing how they use the numbers... should i just go for the 1.75 (27mm) one since it might mean it's the wider of the two?
    My guess is that..........................

    RHYNO LITE XL (Welded) | SUNRinglé
    Rhyno Lite (Pinned) | SUNRinglé

    - http://www.sun-ringle.com/wp-content...m_profiles.pdf

    Even the manufacturer doesn't provide adequate information.
    One might be pinned, and the other welded ... Or they might just make two rims that are darn near the same, yet have what appears to be an IMO insignificant profile difference for 99% of the riders on the planet.

    More info - Wheel Science | SUNRinglé

  7. #7
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    this sucks... the wheelsets i see that are cheap even at jensonusa are drilled for presta valves. any other sources that has schrader drilled rims instead?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by db_8 View Post
    this sucks... the wheelsets i see that are cheap even at jensonusa are drilled for presta valves. any other sources that has schrader drilled rims instead?
    Most aftermarket rims that I've seen are usually drilled for Presta valves. An easy way to get around this is to buy tubes with Presta valves.
    I've made some bad decisions like taking the gears off my bike. So here's the warning: Do not as I say, nor as I do.

  9. #9
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    If you want, you can put a Presta tube in a rim drilled for Schrader without a problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by db_8 View Post
    this sucks... the wheelsets i see that are cheap even at jensonusa are drilled for presta valves. any other sources that has schrader drilled rims instead?
    Drill it ... Be careful, and if possible use a small reamer, rather than a standard drill bit ... 21/64 inch

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    sounds good! thanks, i'll try to find a reamer.

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    26x1.5 vs 26x1.75 wheelset

    Why don't you just use presta tubes?

    Why drill a rim?


    Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.
    JPark - 3.5- don't listen to dremer

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken in KC View Post
    Why don't you just use presta tubes?

    Why drill a rim?


    Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.
    That's what I was thinking. Why ruin a perfectly good warranty over a $5 tube?
    I've made some bad decisions like taking the gears off my bike. So here's the warning: Do not as I say, nor as I do.

  14. #14
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    don't want to turn this into presta vs schrader let's just say i'm narrow-minded lol and regarding the warranty, they're not that expensive and worth the trouble considering everything is shipped to hawaii... these rhyno-lites are freakin' wide i think i can drill twice the size of presta holes lmao i appreciate the help and concerns guys. you folks rock

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