1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    2009 Rocky Mountain Reaper 1 Crank help.

    As stated in topic title, i have a 09 reaper 1, im not pleased with the crank at all and want to change it out, but i have NO idea where to start.

    Any help would be appreciated. I dont mind if i have to change the rear set and chain either so, if i can get some links and ideas, that would be awesome.

    Bike specs are :
    Bicycle Type Mountain bike, front suspension
    MSRP (new) Unspecified
    Weight Unspecified
    Sizes 13.5", 15", 16.5", 18", 19"
    Colors Sand
    Item ID 18847

    Frame & Fork
    Frame Construction TIG-welded
    Frame Tubing Material RMB Custom 6061 aluminum
    Fork Brand & Model RockShox Dart 1, 100mm travel
    Fork Material Single
    Rear Shock Not applicable

    Components
    Component Group Mountain Mix
    Brakeset Tektro IO mechanical Disc brakes, Shimano EF-50 EZ Fire Integrated levers
    Shift Levers Shimano EF-50 EZ Fire Integrated
    Front Derailleur Shimano C050
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Altus
    Crankset TruVativ X-Flow, 22/32/42 teeth
    Pedals VP 565 alloy
    Bottom Bracket TruVativ Power Spline
    BB Shell Width Unspecified
    Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
    Chain Shimano HG40
    Seatpost RMB Alloy, 27.2mm diameter
    Saddle WTB Speed V Sport
    Handlebar Alloy Riser
    Handlebar Extensions Not included
    Handlebar Stem Alloy 31.8
    Headset 1 1/8" FSA No 10

    Wheels
    Hubs Wheeltech disc super sealed
    Rims WTB FX28
    Tires 26" Kenda Nevegal
    Spoke Brand Stainless
    Spoke Nipples Unspecified


    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    What is it exactly that puts you off with your current crank? Is there an issue that your having or you just dont like the looks/brand name of it?
    Because there's a few other components on your list that I'd change out first!
    Karakoram...ZS44, X-Fusion, Freq i23, Tioga's, Shadow & XT,Shim Hydro 180/160, MG-1 pedals & more.

  3. #3
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    Basically I have noticed on the 09 reaper 1s is that it feels like there's alot of resistance to pedal. I've tried 5 of em. And they all do it. But if I ride a diffrent brand there's less.
    Best way to put it is it feels like it takes way more effort to ride them.
    Other bikes aren't like that at all.
    Unless its not the crank but something else

    Also I'm not the only one. I had a bunch of friends who rode lots look too and they said it def feels harder then it should be

  4. #4
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    It is a pretty low end spec, you have to ask yourself whether it's worth spending the money on a better drivetrain or a new bike. You could go for a X7, Deore or SLX drivetrain and brakes for $400 + ish but RS dart forks are not really adjustable so you would probably want to get something better which is going to cost $200 upwards.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twalt87 View Post
    Basically I have noticed on the 09 reaper 1s is that it feels like there's alot of resistance to pedal. I've tried 5 of em. And they all do it. But if I ride a diffrent brand there's less.
    Best way to put it is it feels like it takes way more effort to ride them.
    Other bikes aren't like that at all.
    Unless its not the crank but something else

    Also I'm not the only one. I had a bunch of friends who rode lots look too and they said it def feels harder then it should be
    Hub bearings, brake drag and gear selection all account for a hard pedal. I'd check those as well. Spinning your wheels while the bike upside down doesnt really prove much hub bearing drag. The real problem lights up when you put your weight on it. BUT, the crank bearing you can test when upside down to feel by hand. That will tell you if your crank bearings are causing the issue. Check in low gear with a freinds bike side-by-side as long as the tooth count is the same.
    Karakoram...ZS44, X-Fusion, Freq i23, Tioga's, Shadow & XT,Shim Hydro 180/160, MG-1 pedals & more.

  6. #6
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    The bearings sound/feel ok. Already checked that. As for brake drag. I thought of that already too. I removed them ad still the same. Even in 1st gear on my bike is the same resistance as 3rd or 4th on my friends Norco. Resistance is hard but if I put both in 1st an pedal at same speed I go same speed on both. If I coast they both coast equal. Only thing I didn't check is if the Norco has a longer crank. Which would give it more force. If tey are the same them I'm back to thinking its the crank

  7. #7
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    For a bike of those specs I think a Deore crank would be a good idea. They are available mail order for $65-$80 and come with the bottom bracket.

    As far as the bike seeming slower, try coasting downhill with both bikes and see if there is a difference in speed and distance traveled.

  8. #8
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    I think I already states that but if not I have tried coasting down hill with both. I'm question if mabey that back hub is to tight as well

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