1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    2001 Rockhopper Pro vs 2010 Rockhopper Comp 29er?

    The 2001 is $175 but the fork is leaking.

    The 2010 is $550 with deore xt derailur and 29 inch wheels.

    This will be my first real mountain bike...had a walmart one a couple years ago, haha. The 2001 seems to have been outfitted with better components initially, but they're now 11 years old. I could replace the fork with a nicer new one and still come out under 550 though.

    Is the newer bike the way to go? My heart says yes, but the pocketbook says no!

    2001:

    Fork Brand & Model Rock Shox Judy XC
    Components
    Component Group Mountain Mix
    Brakeset ProMax linear-pull brakes, Shimano Deore levers
    Shift Levers Shimano Deore LX RapidFire SL
    Front Derailleur Shimano Deore LX
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore XT SGS
    Crankset Specialized Forearm 2 Comp, 22/32/44 teeth
    Pedals Shimano PD-M515 SPD
    Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-LP27, 113mm spindle
    BB Shell Width 68mm English
    Chain Shimano, 1/2 x 3/32"


    2010:

    FORK:
    RockShox Dart 3 SL for 29" wheel, 80mm, 1 piece magnesium lower, alloy steerer, adj. reb. damping w/ LO and preload adj., size-specific spring rates, spring assisted seal, disc only
    FRONT BRAKE
    Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
    REAR BRAKE
    Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
    BRAKE LEVERS
    Avid FR-5, alloy, two-finger linear pull
    FRONT DERAILLEUR
    Shimano Altus, 34.9mm clamp
    REAR DERAILLEUR
    SRAM X-5, mid cage
    SHIFT LEVERS
    SRAM X4-R trigger
    CASSETTE
    SRAM PG-830, 8-speed, 11-32t
    CHAIN
    KMC X8 w/ reuseable Missing Link
    CRANKSET
    SR SunTour, Octalink spline
    CHAINRINGS
    42S x 32S x 22S replaceable
    BOTTOM BRACKET
    Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm

  2. #2
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    Buy the newer bike

    If it's in decent shape, buy the 29er. Bottom line, a 10 yr old bike is a 10 yr old bike. $550 for a relatively new 29er with decent spec is the way to fo, IMO.

    Bob

    P.S. Pocketbook aside, $550 is a drop in the bucket for a mountain bike of ANY quality.
    'If Wal-Mart sold parachutes, who would jump?' Frank Havnoonian (quoting his father) Drexel Hill Cyclery

  3. #3
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    I would go for the 2010, I think overall it has better components than the 2001 bike. And you'll be quite sure that the frame is in good condition too.

  4. #4
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    Went with the 2010!

    Bike actually had SR Suntour XCR lo 29 forks, not exactly how they compare to the Dart 3 I was thinking it had, but they at least seem to work well enough for my needs at this point!

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