1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    1" to 1 1/8" Stem Adapter

    I just got a older Stumpjumper last night with ridged forks for commuting. Bars are too low and stem is too long so I want to get a new stem. Is this the right adapter to go from an older 1" stem to 1 1/8" stem? I think this will give a little more rise too which is what I want. Thanks.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Adapters.aspx

    Here's the bike

  2. #2
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    Why not just get a shorter 1 1/8" stem and riser bars?

    And that adapter will not work.

  3. #3
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    No that is not the right adapter. What you need is some sort of shim. My wife has an old bike with a 1" headtube, and years ago some new stems used to come with the shims. Thats how I got the shim I'm using.

    A couple of companies still make the shims. You can get one online or get your LBS to order for you. Here is an example:

    http://www.beyondbikes.com/bb/itemde...CMR-Ste-SM5320

  4. #4
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    I found the solution to your problems....

    A shorter higher rise stem that comes with the shim. Just get this and you should be good to go.

    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5230

  5. #5
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    That's awesome, oldschooler? Thanks. Looks like this is a cheaper solution as well.

    On the same note, maybe I don't understand what parts are in there. I assumed it was the same as a modern shock and the top of the stem is part of the fork but maybe it isn't. Maybe it's the older design.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Razorfish
    That's awesome, oldschooler? Thanks. Looks like this is a cheaper solution as well.

    On the same note, maybe I don't understand what parts are in there. I assumed it was the same as a modern shock and the top of the stem is part of the fork but maybe it isn't. Maybe it's the older design.
    That original part you posted was so you can use a threadless stem on an old bike which has a threaded fork. From the picture your bike obviously has a threadless fork. The picture looks like it has the original DiaComp "Aheadset".

  7. #7
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    Are you sure that isn't a 1 1/8 headset? I guarantee you it is threadless.

    BTW, Razor, are those Forte Gotham tires you are running?
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    Are you sure that isn't a 1 1/8 headset? I guarantee you it is threadless.

    BTW, Razor, are those Forte Gotham tires you are running?
    I measured the size and compared to my other bike and it's about 1/8 smaller. Since they're only 1" or 1 1/8" (I think) I can only assume it's 1". I'm gonna go by Performance this weekend and pick up the stem oldskoolbiker pointed out to me.

    Yes, good call. Forte Gothams. Looking online these appear to be pretty low end tires ($6.99 - $15) but they roll fast and stick in the corners. They're not as fast as road slicks but still pretty fast. I'm really pleased that I won't need to buy a set of tires for this bike. They have a little tread too so I hope they're ok on smooth, light duty, dirt paths.

    You can see them a little better in this shot.


  9. #9
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    I run the gothams on my 2005 Hardrock commuter. Great tires for cheap. Right now I have mine at 90psi......hehehe.....they are like rocks. BTW, the gothams are designed to be puncture resistant....and yes, the tread is good enough for light duty dirt paths no prob.

    Note the red blinky on the back I mounted with a spare 160mm disc brake adapter....LOL
    Last edited by savagemann; 05-28-2011 at 11:59 PM.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  10. #10
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    Oh nice, man. I only had mine at 65 but I'll give your pressure a try too. Your hardrock setup is pretty close to what I was shooting for when I saw the add for the older Stumpy.

    I'm looking at a new stem, bars, grips, bottom bracket to get this one going. A friend is giving me old school pedals with straps. Eventually I want to make it a SS but that will mean a few more parts so I'm holding off a while.

  11. #11
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    I'm converting mine to a SS using the Forte conversion kit. Its really cheap and comes with 3 different cogs to choose from, as well as a chain tensioner. Performance has it for like $20. Right now I am running an X-0 grip shifter with an X7 rear D, and a PG990 cassette with a PC991 chain. Extras from my last bike. I'll miss the nice drivetrain, but SS will make things a bit more simple. Prolly go with an 18t cog on the rear and a 36T up front.
    Yea, a shorter stem makes commuting much nicer. I put a 50mm stem on mine, with a 2" riser bar. Its like riding a giant bmx bike....LOL
    Careful going too high on the PSI........I'm pretty high above the recomended pressure, but it holds on my rim design. I'd only add 5psi every ride until it feels right.
    I also have a Kona P2 rigid fork, suspension corrected I am adding to my HR......it is disc only, which is kinda neat, and corrects for a 100mm suspension fork.
    I'm sure a BB will bring that baby to life if it is not spinning freely. Comfy grips are a must for commuting. I use the Lizard Skin North Shore lock ons. They are very big in diameter, which is nice for my large hands. I often commute without gloves, so the larger size is a major plus.
    After you toss on that new stem, slide your seat forward on the rails and you'll be golden.
    Word.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  12. #12
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    Savagemann, you and oldskoolbiker are my new best friends. I was looking at $50+ to get the SS going in separate parts. $20 for the whole kit is great.

    Do you know if I need a special tool to get the gears off and cog back on?

  13. #13
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    You'll need a cassette lock ring tool, and a chain whip. Both tools available cheap from performance. You will also need a large cresent wrench to turn the lock ring tool, or a vice, but a wrench is better.

    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=4203
    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=4203
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  14. #14
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    Or
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/146...-Guide-Pin.htm

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/145...et-Remover.htm

    They are a bit cheaper from pricepoint, but if you are ordering other stuff from performance, might be easier to just place 1 order with them.

    But if you plan on going to your local performance in person, make sure you tell them to match the performance web prices for you.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

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