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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The 135x10mm option is the same interface as the old rune and spitfires.
    This actually has nothing to do with what I quoted, i just wanted to get your attention....Seems weird that I get advertisements to buy other bikes on the Banshee site when I click on the video/pictures of the Rune.

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    This actually has nothing to do with what I quoted, i just wanted to get your attention....Seems weird that I get advertisements to buy other bikes on the Banshee site when I click on the video/pictures of the Rune.
    Haha, good point. We have an official rune V2 video that will go up shortly so we don't just link to Vital and their various website sponsors.
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  3. #303
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    Good! Not that someone would choose that GT of a Rune or spitfire

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    On the Banshee site with recently added geo specs for the V2 there is a weight listed of 6.5lbs for medium at bottom of spec sheet. I assume that is without shock, so 7.0lbs for medium w/RP23 and like 7.25-7.75lbs for bigger volumed air shocks. I figured a large V2 w/Monarch RC3 plus is going to weigh about 7.5lbs (the same as my large V1 w/ISX Evolver shock).
    That would be a sick weight... I thought it would lean more towards 8,5 lbs in Large with CTD Float because of the bushings...

    Lets see

  5. #305
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    Rune V2

    Test!

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    That would be a sick weight...
    Yes, that would be amazing!

  7. #307
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    i wonder, which ist the right tune for the vivid air @ Rune V2 ?

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR.A View Post
    i wonder, which ist the right tune for the vivid air @ Rune V2 ?
    Regarding itīs a virtual pivot point and the shock measure itīs 216x63

    Probably it will fit a MEDIUM tune...

    in fact, Iīve got a vivid coil rc2 in M tune waiting to put on my rune when I decide to go to the Bike Parks!!

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arl5555en View Post
    I'm also glad to hear there will be no internal cable routing, what a pain in the ass!

    Have you ever changed a shifter without liner? Or changed on a Trail / Holiday-Trip?

    Ridley Noah Internal Cable Routing Solution Video - Part 2 of 2 - YouTube

    Never a internal Cable!!!!!!!!!

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman_2 View Post
    Have you ever changed a shifter without liner? Or changed on a Trail / Holiday-Trip?

    Ridley Noah Internal Cable Routing Solution Video - Part 2 of 2 - YouTube

    Never a internal Cable!!!!!!!!!

    Haha I regularly have to defend my descision not to go with internal cable routing. I think anyone who has ever had to build or change components (especially hydraulic brakes) on a frame with internal cable routing will fully understand why I avoid it. I'm trying to save Banshee customers time, money and frustration.
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  11. #311
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    I've only ever had one frame with good internal cable routing, my Prophet MX, that came with big thick rubber tubes pushed all the way through the swing arm, changing cables on that was a breeze and they silenced any rattles too. All these bikes with tiny plastic grommets are rubbish...

    Good call on using zip-tie saddles throughout Keith, proper full length muck proofing!

  12. #312
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    Are there 135X10mm dropouts for 650b wheels?

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by belljeffw View Post
    Are there 135X10mm dropouts for 650b wheels?
    The 650B dropouts will only come in 142x12mm standard to start with. if demand increases then we may expand the options. Most good hub manufacturers offer conversion kits.
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  14. #314
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    Just deciding which hubs to use. I have some Hope 2s laying around, but I hate the way they sound ; )

  15. #315
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    @keith
    would the below shocks work well with the V2 rune?
    - Elka stage 5 with the v1 tune
    - X-fusion vector air HLR
    - Fox DHX air

    What is the current tune settings for the fox CTD shock?

    I was thinking of rebuilding my Elka for the V2 but the local elka representive has zero idea on how to tune it for the V2....

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxross View Post
    I was thinking of rebuilding my Elka for the V2 but the local elka representive has zero idea on how to tune it for the V2....
    send it to Elka. they can change the valving and length/stroke

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by helidave View Post
    send it to Elka. they can change the valving and length/stroke
    The local representative is elka certified and can do all the hardware changes. Problem is they say they have no information on which valving combination to use for the V2.

  18. #318
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    send keith a pm, he can send them the info.

  19. #319
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    Elka have all the leverage info for the new bikes, so your local elka dealer should be able to get it from them. All the mentioned shocks should fit.

    The Fox Float CTD tune is as follows for the Rune V2:
    Boost Valve Pressure 200 PSI
    Valving Assy: 2013 FLOAT CTD BV, VTL, RTM
    Sleeve-Option LV
    Air Volume Space = 0.4
    Kashima Label Gold (Std)
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  20. #320
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    Will Flips Chips be provided with the frame?
    DDKS

  21. #321
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    The dropout kits that come with the frames (or separately if you buy a second set aftermarket) will contain bth sets of flip chips.
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  22. #322
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    So as far as the black color option. Is that paint or Anodizing? I don't know if this is covered anywhere (but I have looked for a good 30 minutes).

  23. #323
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    What would running 650B dropouts with a 26er wheel do to the BB height and CS length?

    Looking very closely at this frame now. Would love to get a raw frame to have it custom painted by Toxik Labs in Vancouver, would Trident be able to get me one?

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    What would running 650B dropouts with a 26er wheel do to the BB height and CS length?

    Looking very closely at this frame now. Would love to get a raw frame to have it custom painted by Toxik Labs in Vancouver, would Trident be able to get me one?
    CS length would be the same as with a 650b wheel, since the axle position is the same. Assuming you used 26 inch wheels on front and back, BB height would be 3/4 inches lower than with 650b wheels.

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by climbingbubba View Post
    So as far as the black color option. Is that paint or Anodizing? I don't know if this is covered anywhere (but I have looked for a good 30 minutes).
    Black frames are ano
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  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    What would running 650B dropouts with a 26er wheel do to the BB height and CS length?

    Looking very closely at this frame now. Would love to get a raw frame to have it custom painted by Toxik Labs in Vancouver, would Trident be able to get me one?
    BB height remains the same as 26" for same dropout position, CS length increases by about 10mm over 26" dropout.
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  27. #327
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    Really disapointed looking at this weight, expected it to be around 5.9 lbs without shock for L. But 6.3 for M is making it one of the heaviest 160mm enduro frames.

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by tene View Post
    Really disapointed looking at this weight, expected it to be around 5.9 lbs without shock for L. But 6.3 for M is making it one of the heaviest 160mm enduro frames.
    I am sorry but It looks like you are confused... You were expecting the weight of a carbon frame and that is impossible.

    The lightest 160 aluminium enduro frame is Liteville 301 and its weight is 5.5 lbs in M size without shock, and it weighs the same as Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon (6.16 lbs) with shock.

    So if 6.5 lbs is the final weight without shock (and here Keith is the only one who can confirm that point to us) it would be in the lightest part of aluminium enduro frames.

  29. #329
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    I think those weights might be wrong. Will get the website updated when we hve frame weight with photo. It's going to be a bit heavier. Remember that this is not a weight weenie bike for those who secretly want to wear lycra and spend more time polishing their bikes than riding them. These bikes are designed to be ridden, and ridden hard.

    The efficiency gained from the superior frame stiffness combined with linkage kinematics will more than make up for any weight increase over competitors on the climbs, and when pointing downhill you'll be going to fast to think about anything else.
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  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I think those weights might be wrong. Will get the website updated when we hve frame weight with photo. It's going to be a bit heavier. Remember that this is not a weight weenie bike for those who secretly want to wear lycra and spend more time polishing their bikes than riding them. These bikes are designed to be ridden, and ridden hard.

    The efficiency gained from the superior frame stiffness combined with linkage kinematics will more than make up for any weight increase over competitors on the climbs, and when pointing downhill you'll be going to fast to think about anything else.
    Thatīs the main point...


  31. #331
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    Kieth or Jay, can you tell us what Msrp is for Canada and the US please.

  32. #332
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    MRSP will be the same as they currently are for the Prime.
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  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    MRSP will be the same as they currently are for the Prime.
    And that is? I mean I can check Jenson USA and see the US sells it for $2000. but what about Canada, what is the actual MSRP for us up here?

  34. #334
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    Yikes, need a decoder ring anymore to figure out front derailleurs. I gave up on Shimano's direct mount lingo, and went with an X9 S3 Bottom Pull 2X10 - which I assume will work on a 3X10 with a bash guard.

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    MRSP will be the same as they currently are for the Prime.
    Still trying to find out what the Canadian MSRP is. Bike. Shops in Canada say they do not know but does Banshee have a suggested MSRP for Canada? I even asked a few about the Prime since you said they would be similar but they did not know that either.

    The reason I am asking is if it is 2k I would be better off sellin my bike as a whole but if it is closer to $2200 then I would be better off to just try to sell the parts I think.
    Last edited by Mishtar; 10-19-2012 at 09:01 AM.

  36. #336
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    Regional MRSP's are actually set by the distributors based on the MRPS we provide in US$. I just spoke with Trident, and MRSP in Canada is $2075
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  37. #337
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    Thank you!

  38. #338
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    Kieth, as far as the CCDB Air goes will the Rune require the modified HV inner can?

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Boost Valve Pressure 200 PSI
    Valving Assy: 2013 FLOAT CTD BV, VTL, RTM
    Sleeve-Option LV
    Air Volume Space = 0.4
    Kashima Label Gold (Std)
    Wait a minute here ( bolded for interesting )

    So I need Low Volume shock for the new Rune?

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    Wait a minute here ( bolded for interesting )

    So I need Low Volume shock for the new Rune?
    LV - Large Volume

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Regional MRSP's are actually set by the distributors based on the MRPS we provide in US$. I just spoke with Trident, and MRSP in Canada is $2075
    With which Rear Shock?

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    With which Rear Shock?
    I can asnwer this as I looked into it already with Trident and it is with the Fox Float CTD.

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Kieth, as far as the CCDB Air goes will the Rune require the modified HV inner can?
    We have done some testing, and overall we prefered the HV can, and will be specing that with a couple of internal spacers, however the regular can worked 95% as well as final tune, and gave a slightly more progressive XC feel to the bike.
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  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    We have done some testing, and overall we prefered the HV can, and will be specing that with a couple of internal spacers, however the regular can worked 95% as well as final tune, and gave a slightly more progressive XC feel to the bike.
    Any more info on the internal spacers? I ask because the frame warrantys are only available from Trident with the Fox Float or no shock, so if I wanted to buy a CCDB air and get the HV can just wondering what internal spacers i would need.

  45. #345
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    Good to announce that the first rune v2 will arrive to my home in 4 days.... are you ready??...

    Find attached the assembly....

    Rune V2- what is your wishlist?-imagen1.jpg

    As you can see, I expected the weight of the frame having no idea about the real one but 3.400kg size L or 3.500 itīs perfectly possible... so I think itīs a rasonable approximation...



    pd: Many thanks to keith and jay for their support and lovely treatment;

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Any more info on the internal spacers? I ask because the frame warrantys are only available from Trident with the Fox Float or no shock, so if I wanted to buy a CCDB air and get the HV can just wondering what internal spacers i would need.

    Rune spec for the DBair is Xvol can with 1 large volume spacer. Base settings are as follows:

    LSR - 14 clicks in
    LSC - 10 clicks in
    HSR - 2 turns in
    HSC - 2 turns in

    These are just a rough guide to get started, but I actively encourage riders to make adjustments and try tuning the shock to match their personal needs.
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  47. #347
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    what frame size do you recommend to a person who is 8'2'' tall with a 35'' inseam?

  48. #348
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    Xxxxxxxxl

  49. #349
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    yeah obviously.

    This was supposed to be 6'2'' in fact.

  50. #350
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    You are tweener in my book. Large with a 70 mm stem or XL with a 50mm

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    You are tweener in my book. Large with a 70 mm stem or XL with a 50mm
    I am 6#3" with 36" inseam, and all over the large with 40mm stem, probably... I think XL makes sense for 6#5" and above, certainly not for 6#2" guys...

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    I am 6#3" with 36" inseam, and all over the large with 40mm stem, probably... I think XL makes sense for 6#5" and above, certainly not for 6#2" guys...
    It seems you like small fittingbbikes. How much seat post is sticking out when you are climbing a fire road? A 24" ETT is typically about right for a six footer.

  53. #353
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    Just another opinion, or more like experience.

    I am 179 cm (somewhere near 6ft in your book), and I have a Large Rune V1, and I have been using 40mm stem. I have tried a Med Rune V1, set up for my height (owner is my size), and it used a 70mm stem in the end, as it started with a 90mm stem.
    I found I like the bigger bike with smaller stem a lot more.

    I'll get a Prime, but this time I'll go for a Medium. (prime medium is bigger than rune v1 med), and hopefully a 50 or 60mm stem at max will be good. I don't like being on too small of a bike and then using a gigantic stem. I try to go for the bigger frame size.

    At your size, L would be a solid choice, and if needed use a 35mm or 40mm stem (take in account the V2 sizes are bigger than V1)

  54. #354
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    I didn't check the reach #s but the Effective top tube on the large is 24" on V1 and V2.

  55. #355
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    yes, but the reach is what counts after all (ETT is influenced by seattubeangle) and my Large Rune V1 is actually quite small for someone in the 6#2-3" area... I ride mine with 70mm stem... but the new V2 is much longer, although the ETT does not tell...

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Black frames are ano
    Blue frames are paint/powder coat?

  57. #357
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    Powder coated.
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  58. #358
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    Hello!

    I owned a Banshee Rune forum.dirt.ru/showthread.php?p=2234044 (theme on local forum about bike) and bought it in BikeTech
    I'm having problems with the suspension - Lower Link. Sleeves that
    were bundled with the frame I used after the first occurrence play and
    now I do not have the repair kit and the suspension re-play. In
    BikeTech spare no sleeves! You do not have any upgradkit to
    translate suspension for Bearing? My frame number P11490382 and I am
    the first and only owner. You can help me in any way? Or can you think
    about the issues of the repair kit? I'm willing to pay for upgrade kit
    for lower link

    I talked with Russian diller! You don't answer their letters and they can tell nothing according to the upgrade program!


    How i can get upgrade kit for my rune?

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeezKneez View Post
    yeah obviously.

    This was supposed to be 6'2'' in fact.
    I am same height as you (I have pretty long arms, but other promotions are normalish) and I'm comfortable on large with 60mm stem for all day riding.
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  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    yes, but the reach is what counts after all (ETT is influenced by seattubeangle) and my Large Rune V1 is actually quite small for someone in the 6#2-3" area... I ride mine with 70mm stem... but the new V2 is much longer, although the ETT does not tell...
    Do you happen to know the reach lengths of a V1 and V2 for a large frame? I was thinking and hoping since the V2 has a much steeper seat tube angle to offeset the slacker HTA, that the reach would be a bit shorter as I am a "tweener" at 5'11" between a medium and large (23.8" ETT w/50 stem is about perfect for me).
    Ride On!

  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I am same height as you (I have pretty long arms, but other promotions are normalish) and I'm comfortable on large with 60mm stem for all day riding.
    What do you suggest for someone who is 6ft with a 34 inch inseam.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    What do you suggest for someone who is 6ft with a 34 inch inseam.
    I'd suggest a large would be best fit most likely. But it is worth you doing some homwork and comparing geometry to that of a bike you currently feel comfortable on. Only you can make the final descison.
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  63. #363
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    I am comfortable on my large Rune but not sure if the new V2 will feel a bit larger or not.

  64. #364
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    Comparing the old rune to new rune for same size id interesting. The Rune V2 has a more aggressive geometry, and by this I don't just mean slackr head angle. The whole geometry is desinged to bring you forward on the bike a bit more to attacke the trail and keep good weight on front tire. (similar concept to skiing really, if you commit and lean down the hill you gain control and can hold speed better).

    In sitting position both bikes will have a similar spacing from saddle to bars, due to the steeper seat angle (which also heps a lot when climbing) your whole body is shifted forwards a bit, and the reach is 38mm longer on the Rune V2. So when out of the saddle the new rune V2 will feel longer and more stable than the old one. If you like to throw your bike around a lot and enjoy having a flickable agile bike over one that is more aimed towards a comfortable position for log days in the saddle, then you may want to consider shifting down to a medium V2 frame if you are currently comfortavle on a large and already run a short stem.
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  65. #365
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    builttoride Can you help russian banshee rune owners with upgrade kits? forums.mtbr.com/9811020-post358.html how much it will be cost? Sorry for offtop

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by _va View Post
    builttoride Can you help russian banshee rune owners with upgrade kits? forums.mtbr.com/9811020-post358.html how much it will be cost? Sorry for offtop
    Youll need to apply to your distributor (BIKETECH) for details on upgrade options in Russia. You can find their contact details in the distributor section of our website.
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Comparing the old rune to new rune for same size id interesting. The Rune V2 has a more aggressive geometry, and by this I don't just mean slackr head angle. The whole geometry is desinged to bring you forward on the bike a bit more to attacke the trail and keep good weight on front tire. (similar concept to skiing really, if you commit and lean down the hill you gain control and can hold speed better).

    In sitting position both bikes will have a similar spacing from saddle to bars, due to the steeper seat angle (which also heps a lot when climbing) your whole body is shifted forwards a bit, and the reach is 38mm longer on the Rune V2. So when out of the saddle the new rune V2 will feel longer and more stable than the old one. If you like to throw your bike around a lot and enjoy having a flickable agile bike over one that is more aimed towards a comfortable position for log days in the saddle, then you may want to consider shifting down to a medium V2 frame if you are currently comfortavle on a large and already run a short stem.

    Thank you for the info. I run a 50mm stem right now and it feels about right so I guess i could runner a shorter stem or just try it out with a 50mm again.

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    you do realize that the V2 has a 38mm longer reach? you cannot go shorter than 30mm stem so you would still have a 20mm longer bike... just saying that you should consider the smaller bike if you really think the length is perfect right now...

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Youll need to apply to your distributor (BIKETECH) for details on upgrade options in Russia. You can find their contact details in the distributor section of our website.
    I know these people personally. They know nothing about your program and can't contact you - you don't answer their letters! You can tell at least that the upgrade program includes? What parts of a suspension bracket will change? Or all frame on the new will change?

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    one thing I must say.

    I never had any question unanswered by banshee directly... why should they not want to reply to distributors mails? my suspicion is that the dealers/distributors who pretend to get no answere never sent a mail in the first place... sorry to say, but as a simple private costumer who always had good contact, with both keith and jay, I can hardly imagine any of those suspicions are true...

  71. #371
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    They sent letters. They and my letters are answered by 1 time in 2 weeks...

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Comparing the old rune to new rune for same size id interesting. The Rune V2 has a more aggressive geometry, and by this I don't just mean slackr head angle. The whole geometry is desinged to bring you forward on the bike a bit more to attacke the trail and keep good weight on front tire. (similar concept to skiing really, if you commit and lean down the hill you gain control and can hold speed better).

    In sitting position both bikes will have a similar spacing from saddle to bars, due to the steeper seat angle (which also heps a lot when climbing) your whole body is shifted forwards a bit, and the reach is 38mm longer on the Rune V2. So when out of the saddle the new rune V2 will feel longer and more stable than the old one. If you like to throw your bike around a lot and enjoy having a flickable agile bike over one that is more aimed towards a comfortable position for log days in the saddle, then you may want to consider shifting down to a medium V2 frame if you are currently comfortavle on a large and already run a short stem.
    Interesting and thanks for explanation of the sizing difference, Keith! But man, a 38mm (1.5") longer reach seems like a big change to me. Any general sizing recommendation for someone 5'11" w/shoes (5'10" without) with 32" pant inseam that rode V1.5 large w/45mm stem and saddle pushed all the way forward to max position (could easily ran a 35mm stem w/saddle back some). I am currently on a medium Yeti SB-66 (24.1" ETT) with 50mm stem, saddle max forward with similar fit and feel for climbing and descending. I don't like to run longer than 50mm stems, but a 18" seat tube is about the shortest I can comfortably go for the long climbs due to seatpost jacked to the moon and in the max position. I am just trying to put this together as my medium Yeti Sb-66 and large V1.5 Rune has almost identical geometry and fit with 160 fork. But, not sure how a large V2 would playout for me on the trail and afraid a medium will be a little too short as most 23" ETT and <18" AM/trail bikes are, but seems to like bikes with 16.5-17" reach tops.

    Thanks for any recommendations.
    Jon
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  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    you do realize that the V2 has a 38mm longer reach? you cannot go shorter than 30mm stem so you would still have a 20mm longer bike... just saying that you should consider the smaller bike if you really think the length is perfect right now...
    That's what I am pondering and wrestling with as well, as I am of similar sizing to Mishstar. I still don't understand how a bike with same ETT and steeper STA = longer reach. I understand how a shorter head tube stack would stretch you out a bit more. I would think the steeper STA would bring you closer to the bars. I am now confused
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    That's what I am pondering and wrestling with as well, as I am of similar sizing to Mishstar. I still don't understand how a bike with same ETT and steeper STA = longer reach. I understand how a shorter head tube stack would stretch you out a bit more. I would think the steeper STA would bring you closer to the bars. I am now confused
    +1 for me on this.

  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    That's what I am pondering and wrestling with as well, as I am of similar sizing to Mishstar. I still don't understand how a bike with same ETT and steeper STA = longer reach. I understand how a shorter head tube stack would stretch you out a bit more. I would think the steeper STA would bring you closer to the bars. I am now confused
    If the ETT stays the same, the reach has to lengthen as the STA steepens because the head tube would have to move forward to keep the same ETT. Remember reach is the horizontal measurement from the BB to the top tube; it's not dependent on the STA.

  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    If the ETT stays the same, the reach has to lengthen as the STA steepens because the head tube would have to move forward to keep the same ETT. Remember reach is the horizontal measurement from the BB to the top tube; it's not dependent on the STA.
    Makes sense now, thanks and why reach is always difficult for me to picture and comprehend how a bike is going to fit as it is an elusive point from above the BB, not the saddle. So if the ETT stays the same and one is still going to stick with a short stem and mostly ride hovering off of the saddle, is the fit going to feel much different than a bike with 1.5" shorter reach with same ETT? Ultimately the question is, if a large V1 Rune fit well w/45mm stem, is going to fit similar than V2 or do I need to size down to frame with much shorter ETT to compensate for vast reach differences between the two?
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Makes sense now, thanks and why reach is always difficult for me to picture and comprehend how a bike is going to fit as it is an elusive point from above the BB, not the saddle. So if the ETT stays the same and one is still going to stick with a short stem and mostly ride hovering off of the saddle, is the fit going to feel much different than a bike with 1.5" shorter reach with same ETT? Ultimately the question is, if a large V1 Rune fit well w/45mm stem, is going to fit similar than V2 or do I need to size down to frame with much shorter ETT to compensate for vast reach differences between the two?
    I think from what you are descirbing you will feel more comfortable on a medium Rune V2 since you say you spend mot the time out of the saddle. You could always place the saddle a bit further back in the rails to help get more room when in the saddle if you feel the need, and if that isn't enough you could go up to a 60mm stem, but I have a feeling that will not be necessary.
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  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeezKneez View Post
    what frame size do you recommend to a person who is 8'2'' tall with a 35'' inseam?
    Serious? 8ī2"..??? Should be XXXXL...

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Serious? 8ī2"..??? Should be XXXXL...
    and a 36er

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Serious? 8ī2"..??? Should be XXXXL...
    lolo ETT 800?))))

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    Can someone on here who is smarter thren me please tell me what the reach is on my Large Wilson compared to the 441mm the Large Rune will have according to the Banshee website. I am comfortable on my Large Rune and Large wilson but with the Rune getting longer I will know if I am ok with that if the Wilson is already longer in the reach.

    These are the numbers:
    L ST SA SH TT CS WB BBH SOH HT
    cm in deg deg mm in mm in mm in mm in mm In mm in
    44.5 17.5 72.0 64.0 622 24.4 430 16.9 1203 47.3 355 13.9 740 29.1 120 4.7

    Actual chart of the numbers is located here.

    DEVINCI

  82. #382
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    When I've had to figure it out for my own comparisons I used this calculator:

    http://bikegeo.muha.cc/

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    When I've had to figure it out for my own comparisons I used this calculator:

    geometryCalc
    Thank you

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    Kieth according to that calculator my Wilson which I find perfect is 432mm Reach. The new Rune in a large is 442mm and the medium is 417mm. The old Rune you mentioned was 32mm shorter in a Large so it was 410mm which makes the reach even shorter then the new mediums. However the Large Rune V2 has a shorter Wb and TT lenght then the Large Wilson .

    I re-checked my inseam and it is a 34 not 32 and I am 6 ft. I would be building the bike up with a 170 fork and the CCDB Air for the type of riding I like, which is rolls, drops, jumps and flowy. However I will have to lighten it up when I move to Ottawa from Victoria next year. So in the end it will become more of a xc bike.

    Given all of those factors and that I do not know of one on the Island to sit on to check out, what would you think I would fit on with your engineer based mind?

  85. #385
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    2 things that I forgot to add are my Stem on the Large is actually a 60mm ( just checked it) and my bar is a 685mm in the setup I am comfortabble with but I will be picking up a 711mm bar for the new bike and a new stem, Length based on what you recommend. Sorry about all the questions Kieth, I just want to make sure I order the right size and since I cannot sit on one I need to pick your brain!

    Oh and I earn my turns I won't be shuttling that is saved for the Wilson.
    Last edited by Mishtar; 10-25-2012 at 02:54 PM.

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Kieth according to that calculator my Wilson which I find perfect is 432mm Reach. The new Rune in a large is 442mm and the medium is 417mm. The old Rune you mentioned was 32mm shorter in a Large so it was 410mm which makes the reach even shorter then the new mediums. However the Large Rune V2 has a shorter Wb and TT lenght then the Large Wilson .

    I re-checked my inseam and it is a 34 not 32 and I am 6 ft. I would be building the bike up with a 170 fork and the CCDB Air for the type of riding I like, which is rolls, drops, jumps and flowy. However I will have to lighten it up when I move to Ottawa from Victoria next year. So in the end it will become more of a xc bike.

    Given all of those factors and that I do not know of one on the Island to sit on to check out, what would you think I would fit on with your engineer based mind?
    At 6'0 and 34" inseam, I would think a large is the way to go for you, especially if your DH bike is a large as well and you plan to do a lot of pedalling on it. Just slap on a 35-50 stem tops and move saddle forward if too long of a reach.

    From the sounds of it, the V2 large seems be ideal for 5'11-6'2" riders with longer torsos than legs. I still think a medium is going to be too short in height and length for me at 5'10-11" and 32" inseam (pants). I am still baffled as the bike I am riding now, medium Yeti SB-66 fits me pretty much ideal, if not on the long side with 160 fork and 24.3" ETT, 18" ST, 45.5" WB, 13.3-13.65" BB (dependent upon fork position 130 or 160) with 50mm stem and 780 bars/25mm rise with no spacers and internal headset. Not sure what the reach is on it, but imagine it is way less than 17.3" as a large V2 is.
    Ride On!

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    2 things that I forgot to add are my Stem on the Large is actually a 60mm ( just checked it) and my bar is a 685mm in the setup I am comfortabble with but I will be picking up a 711mm bar for the new bike and a new stem, Length based on what you recommend. Sorry about all the questions Kieth, I just want to make sure I order the right size and since I cannot sit on one I need to pick your brain!

    Oh and I earn my turns I won't be shuttling that is saved for the Wilson.
    I think a Large frame with short stem (~40-50mm) would work well for you, but if you get a chance try to test ride one (or even just sit on one in a shop) before commiting.
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  88. #388
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    Size is always very individual and difficult to advice.
    Personally I ride a Wildcard in L and a friend of mine, who is the same size than you in M. The M Wildcard is claimed for riders up to 6ī1" (188cm). And the ETT is 587mm with 409mm REACH.
    That is very close to the new RUNE geo with ETT 584 and 417mm REACH. It really depends on what you plan to do with the bike. For trail ripping, DH rides, technical stuff etc. the shorter model will probably serve you better. For MUCH more XC rides you will like the L. But for XC rides, for example the Spitfire would be the better choice IMHO.

  89. #389
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    My V2 wish is that I wish mine wasn't stuck in Paris. This is almost painful nnnng.


  90. #390
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    Kieth, on page 6 of this thread there is a picture of 3 different colour frames. Are these the actual final versions? Just wondering if the graphics will be exactly like the pictures or if he blue may end up with white stripes vs the black?

  91. #391
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    Those are computer generated representations of the final designs, the exact shade of blue may vary slightly and the raw will look like Banshee raw always does, but the decal colours will be as they are there.
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  92. #392
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    Thank you Kieth.

  93. #393
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    Anyone know what lenght steerer tube will be needed to run a tapered or straight 1 1/8th steerer? I am looking at a used fork for now until what I want is available in feb.

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    The geometry claims that S/M frames have 110mm headtube and L/XL 125mm. Typical stem has 40mm stack height ( some are lower, but 40mm is average ). Zero stack headset will take about 5mm. So you need minimum 125 + 40 + 5 -> 170mm of steerer. Plan for more if you want to use spacers.

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    Thank you so much!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    Thank you so much!
    count 10mm for the zero stack headset, that is more realistic... I would be looking into around 180mm...

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    Anyone know which front mechs are suitable for the V2 rune? Will any S3 mech work?

    Cheers

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Anyone know which front mechs are suitable for the V2 rune? Will any S3 mech work?

    Cheers
    here is a thought for you:
    XX1 | SRAM

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Anyone know which front mechs are suitable for the V2 rune? Will any S3 mech work?

    Cheers
    I would also want to ask this question

  100. #400
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    Danshee and uzurpator, please read back one or two pages, because I have asked this question here a few days ago. Keith mentioned that all KS-Link-Bikes do have S3-Directmount-Standard and all SRAM DM-Frontderailleurs do work. Shimano XT does work too, but not the SLX. There will be a list to come when compability is fixed.

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