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  1. #1
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    Rune V2 bearings?

    Is there a kit available for the Rune? I noticed the upper pivots use standard 608 RS that are easy to get, but the main pivot of rear end and front have odd numbers on them listed 13-8/13-111 one pivot and 13-52/13-166 for the other one. Hoping to be able to pick up the bearings I need locally, but not sure about the other sizes. Thanks for any feeback on the matter.
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  2. #2
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    The Rune V2 lower bearings are 6001 2RS for both pivots and should be just as easy to source as the top bearings if you feel you want to replace them.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The Rune V2 lower bearings are 6001 2RS for both pivots and should be just as easy to source as the top bearings if you feel you want to replace them.
    Great info. May I ask, what is the spec for the two upper link bolts? The inner portion of the socket heads on my Rune are rusty. Purely cosmetic, but I would like to find some SS options. I assume the lower link bolts are SS as the rust isn't showing on those. Are my assumptions accurate? Thanks in advance.

  4. #4
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    All bolts are chrome plated high tensile steel, so shouldn't rust (Have you tried just wiping it off?). SS bolts aren't a great option, as SS is quite a week material compared to high tensile steel.

    The top bolts are DIN 912 M5x10mm.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    The Rune V2 lower bearings are 6001 2RS for both pivots and should be just as easy to source as the top bearings if you feel you want to replace them.
    Awesome, thanks for letting me so promptly. The bike is currently in pieces waiting to be rebuilt. Can I use the Enduro 2RS MAX style bearings?
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  6. #6
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    How about Ceramic-Hybrids, will they last longer or best to stay with single row or MAX style bearings instead?

    Thanks.
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  7. #7
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    You can use whatever bearings you want as long as they are the right size. I personally avoid ceramic bearings high pivots which are prone to shock loading, as steel bearings tend to last a lot longer, the enduro MAX bearings should work fine.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    You can use whatever bearings you want as long as they are the right size. I personally avoid ceramic bearings high pivots which are prone to shock loading, as steel bearings tend to last a lot longer, the enduro MAX bearings should work fine.
    Thanks, was able to get them today from shop and should be back riding in no time!
    Ride On!

  9. #9
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    What's the warranty regarding bearings? I've got two seized on the top link - the frame is only 3 months old.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antshee View Post
    What's the warranty regarding bearings? I've got two seized on the top link - the frame is only 3 months old.
    You might try to pop them out and see if the bearings are actually seized, or if the issue is really that the bearing hole is slightly under size.

    To pop them out, you can make an arbor press of sorts by using a socket that has a larger inner diameter than the outer diameter of the bearing, with a long bolt, nut and washers. Socket goes over the bearing on the outside, nut & bolt go through both the socket & bearing so when you tighten it will pull the bearing out of the frame into the socket.

    The bearings should be a press-fit into the bores, but not require too much effort to get in. If they are to tight, you can use a socket just slightly smaller in diameter than the bearing bore, wrapped in fine grade (400) sand paper to open them up a little bit. Careful, you may only need to take .005mm off and it goes quickly even with fine grade sand paper. With the bearings out, good time to repack with grease & rotate.

    If this sounds involved, it's really just a :05 minute job.
    I went through this on my Prime prototype, but my production version is perfect.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the info, but it was definitely the bearings as I managed to free them off whilst still in the KS link. I've thoroughly cleaned them out with WD-40, dried them out, spun them round on a Dremel and packed them with fresh grease, they're spinning fine now, but don't feel as smooth as new ones would do. I've contacted the shop where I bought the frame from, to see what the warranty situation is. I love riding it so much I can't bear to send it away, so will order some bearings myself if the warranty won't provide!

  12. #12
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    Buy some quality skf bearings. I bought a set for mine. Great bearing quality and great seals. Better than oem. Cheap insurance against seizing.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antshee View Post
    What's the warranty regarding bearings? I've got two seized on the top link - the frame is only 3 months old.
    Your on your own unfortunately since that is considered a wear item. Wish they did lifetime on bearings like SC. Mine freeze up not before too long as well, especially the top link like yours (make sure you are not using >5NM on those should help too, if not already). The stock INA's which are high grade bearing lasted about 9 months before crapping out and last set of Enduro's with half of all pivots were pretty rough and toast in 5-6 months this last rebuild. So, go with the highest grade bearing you can get your hands on. I only have ready availability with the Enduro 2RS and Max-style, so that is what I use. I am finally going to a two-bike set-up (last +10yrs as "one biker"), so think that will help in frame/pivot longevity as well instead of one bike taking all the load and abuse.
    Ride On!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    Buy some quality skf bearings. I bought a set for mine. Great bearing quality and great seals. Better than oem. Cheap insurance against seizing.
    Thanks! What are skf bearings?
    Ride On!

  15. #15
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    Actually, the grade of the bearings is irrelevant. Pretty much all the bearings used in modern bicycles are of 2RS variety, which is just a single layer rubber seal.

    What kills bearings in bicycles, regardless of their quality, is dirt and rust, from which such rubber seals do not protect all that much. Also, most FS frames do not really seal their bearings, so all the junk on the train has free access to the bearings.

    Especially in a design such as the KS link, where the rear wheel throws mud and water directly at the bearings.

    Such conditions usually do a short job on any bearings, regardless of grade. The most cost effective way to manage this is to buy the cheapest you can get, pack them with heavy grease and replace when necessary.

    I have grown to accept that 6 months is the best I can get from a fresh set of bearings in a frame. It has been the rule since my first FS bike.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Thanks! What are skf bearings?
    Just a bearing manufacturer. Ina and skf both make quality bearings tho they both have a range of quality. We use skf at work and the better ones are still manufactured in japan. I find they hold up well in most applications.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by uzurpator View Post
    Especially in a design such as the KS link, where the rear wheel throws mud and water directly at the bearings.
    Super easy to make a fender for the KS link. No impact to tire clearance and under 50g. This is for the Prime, dims for the other KS link bikes might be a bit different.

    Rune V2 bearings?-783924d1364097754-banshee-rune-v2-build-thread-prime_fender.jpg

  18. #18
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    just be thankful that the KS link bearings appear to be so easy (and cheap) to source. SB66 owners could well chime in here - I've come off a yeti and had no option but to buy the whole bearing kit (70plus) just cos I thought there was some play in the lower link bearings. Its a big running cost but banshee seem to be keeping it down as much as possible (other than doing a lifetime replacement a la santa cruz)

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fingerbanger View Post
    just be thankful that the KS link bearings appear to be so easy (and cheap) to source. SB66 owners could well chime in here - I've come off a yeti and had no option but to buy the whole bearing kit (70plus) just cos I thought there was some play in the lower link bearings. Its a big running cost but banshee seem to be keeping it down as much as possible (other than doing a lifetime replacement a la santa cruz)
    True that, thanks for the reminder. I was a former SB66 owner as well and kits were crazy expensive and required since you bearings were uncommon sizes. All replacement bearings for Rune (8 in total costs about $48).
    Ride On!

  20. #20
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    Here in the PNW I rarely get more than six months out of a set. I have tried higher quality bearings and regular ABEC 5's and I don't notice any difference in longevity and even if there is a minute difference it doesn't justify the added cost. There fore I order my bearings in bulk from Ebay. I bought about 2 years worth of bearings for about 65 bucks. All you need are the bearing codes. The key to easy removal is to line the outer race with a very small layer of grease when installing. Keeps the mated surfaces from mucking up and they pop right out with a bearing removal tool or the home made press/punch I fashioned out of some all thread, washers, and sockets.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Super easy to make a fender for the KS link. No impact to tire clearance and under 50g. This is for the Prime, dims for the other KS link bikes might be a bit different.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    yeah, I shaped a rear fender for my PRIME as well.
    When I first had the frame in my hands I notice that mud would have collected in a great deal in pivots area, so first thing before build up has been shaping the fender.
    great effect so far!
    would be nice if it came included with frame.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by filbike View Post
    ......
    would be nice if it came included with frame.
    ...as well as a chainstay protector !!

  23. #23
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    So I need 4 608 rs and 4 6001 2rs to replace all of them? Just want to make sure before I order them. My shock bushings are wasted also, are the needle bearing replacements worth it?
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    So I need 4 608 rs and 4 6001 2rs to replace all of them? Just want to make sure before I order them. My shock bushings are wasted also, are the needle bearing replacements worth it?
    Cant comment on Needle bearing bushings but yes, you need 4 of each for the frame.

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