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Production Prime Photo/Build thread

271K views 2K replies 130 participants last post by  Vegard 
#1 ·
Here's mine:thumbsup: Apologies in advance for the not so good pictures. My wife decided to let my camera go on an African safari with my mother-in-law without letting me know so all I had was my iPhone and a dark garage:madman:

Frame: Raw medium
Fork: Fox34 Float set at 140mm
Crankset: XO with 28t spiderless MRP BlingRing and RaceFace boots
Chainguide: E13 LG1+ modified to fit 28t ring
Bottom Bracket: Hope ceramic
Pedals: Spank Spike
Seatpost: KS LEV
Seat: brown Chromag Trailmaster
Bars: ENVE AM
Grips: brown ODI Rogue with blue ODI lock ons
Stem: Chromag Ranger
Headset: CaneCreek 40 Series
Brakes: XTR Trail with Hope Saw rotors(7" F/6" R)
Shifter: X9
Derailleur: short cage X9 with KCNC sealed bearing jocky wheels
Cassette: Sram 1070 12-36
F Hub: American Classic 15mm
R Hub: DT 240s with 36t upgrade and Hadley thru bolt
Spokes: Sapim CXRay
Rims: LightBicycle carbon AM with Bontrager Rhythm rimstrips and Stan's valves
Tires: Specialized Ground Control 2.3
Chain: KMC X10SL
Seatpost Clamp: Salsa LipLock

Weight = 29.5 pounds:thumbsup:

I still have lots of adjusting and trimming to do and I didn't get to ride her:mad: Can't wait to get her out in the woods and see what all the hype is about!

FYI for all of those who helped decide on the Medium frame... THANKS! I'm long and lanky but the Medium with the 70mm stem and post just about all the way out felt REALLY good on the neighborhood loop:thumbsup: I can already tell I won't be too cramped and there's still room for adjustment. I'm also strongly considering going to wider bars but I figured I'd ride her a few times before I drop the coin.

Without further delay...








 
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#774 ·
Thanks! Some red in the wheels would help, but I wanted to give these wheels a try...and love em so far...we'll see how they hold up.

Yeah it's an XL and it fits me better than any recent bike that I have owned. Here is a full rundown of the build:

Banshee Prime Frame XL - 142 rear end - w/Fox CTD Kashima shock
Xfusion Trace Forks
Spank Oozy Wheels - tubeless with Specialized GC 2.3 rear tire and Purg 2.3 front
Spank Spike FR Berrecloth signature bars
Spank Spike 35mm stem
Chromag Grips
Chromag Trailmaster LTD saddle
Chromag seat clamp
Saint Brakes
Sram x9 drivetrain 1x10 28t front 11x36 rear
Straitline Lynosky pedals
KS i950-r dropper post
Race Face Atlas Cranks
 
#778 ·
When I had my DBair on my Prime, I liked it better with the regular can and a few volume spacers. In my experience, especially for bigger riders, large volume air cans are a no go unless you want to blow through travel easily.

On a side note, since I sold my Prime my DBair is lonely and sitting on my bench if anyone is interested.
 
#781 ·
after riding a 29er hardtail for the first half of this year, i jumped on a chance to buy a 2nd hand v1 frame. got it built up last week and had a chance to ride it a few times on the shore this past weekend: this bike ****ing owns!

Bicycle tire Tire Wheel Bicycle frame Bicycle wheel


so fair enough the frame is on the heavy side. but even with my isx's compression settings at full open, this thing absolutely rockets up the climbs. i have to admit i didn't follow the development process of this frame: would someone care to explain why one would by a v2 version of this frame rather than just riding the v1 (other than the weight, and the fact that banshee's 2014 black on black color scheme looks totally killer)?
 
#783 ·
As Saukucee said, loads of very small, but nice changes from pre-production (which you have, which is not in fact a not V1) to production, all culminating from feedback of the 70 or so riders who got their hands on one of these. A few of the original testers have production frames now and they are noticing these small differences, so they're definitely there and noticeable. I'd really like to try out a production frame, but chances of that down here are slim to none, unless of course I pick one up sometime.

Of course, as you say, it rides fantastic, so no real reason to spend $$ if things are tight, plus it's also nice to have a piece of history as such. Just did a lower oil change today on my F34-140mm FIT and saw the extra hole in the air rod, so extended travel to 150mm, just have to wait to ride tomorrow to see how it feels.
after riding a 29er hardtail for the first half of this year, i jumped on a chance to buy a 2nd hand v1 frame. got it built up last week and had a chance to ride it a few times on the shore this past weekend: this bike ****ing owns!

View attachment 805021

so fair enough the frame is on the heavy side. but even with my isx's compression settings at full open, this thing absolutely rockets up the climbs. i have to admit i didn't follow the development process of this frame: would someone care to explain why one would by a v2 version of this frame rather than just riding the v1 (other than the weight, and the fact that banshee's 2014 black on black color scheme looks totally killer)?
 
#784 ·
Looks good Boomforreal!

Having owned both... the production version is 1lb or so lighter- which is very noticeable on the uphills and rollers.
  • The suspension feel on the production version feels more progressive to me. More supple at the top, a little more active, yet rides higher in the travel and ramps up more towards the end. That's how it feels to me anyways-running the same shock on both frames.
  • The flipchip design on the production frame is a nice improvement- aside from being lighter and easier to adjust, it actually shortens the wheelbase as you steepen the head angle & raise the BB. The pre-production frames are opposite- the wheelbase grows slightly as you steepen the angles.
  • The head tube length is actually a wash, if you run an interal/0-stack upper cup on the proto frame.
  • Seat tube is a little steeper & I think wheelbase is mm's shorter.
  • the front end of the pre-production frame feels just slightly stiffer to me (1.5 head tube & thicker-walled TT/DT?)

Overall... subtle improvements, but definitely nice improvements, especially on longer rides or for climbing. The pre-production bike was already pretty dialed for the descent. I think you'll like it even more after riding it for a while....
 
#786 ·
My DB Air blows through the first 15-20mm of hub travel (some pressure on the seat without sitting on the bike is enough) and then there is a really noticeable resistance where it wouldnt use more travel even when pedaling hard uphill.

some db air owners noticed this aswell? is this normal behaviour?

a friends db air on his rune v2 acted somehow the same but only uses max 5mm travel.
 
#789 ·
You won't find any as Evasive said, there were only 135 or 150 options available for the pre-production frames. If by chance you decide to give 150mm a go, good luck getting anyone to part with theirs :skep:
 
#792 ·
Haven't used a guide since I built mine over 15 months ago, haven't dropped the chain, only a couple times even when I wasn't running an FD and a 2X setup waiting for the FD to come "in stock" and I use an old M770 9spd RD.
Quick poll for a 2X10 setup...I have always run a bashring and never used a chain guide before (even on my DH rig). I also have a SRAM type 2 (cam style) derailleur for better chain management.

Building the Prime, I want to what's best for the occasional rock & log hit at the chainring...

Option 1.
Bash ring (with Type 2 derailleur to keep things in check)

OR

Option 2
E.Thirteen TRS+ Dual guide with tacoplate

Opinions and first hand experiences would be helpful. Thanks. (Prime build pics coming soon)
 
#791 ·
I vote for option 1. I'm not wild about taco guards - they transmit the force of an impact directly to the ISCG tabs, rather than spreading it out through the whole BB area as a bash ring does.

I built mine about 6 weeks before the SRAM Type 2 derailleurs came out, and I haven't upgraded yet. W/o a guide I never dropped a chain to the BB, although I did occasionally have it slip from the 36 to the 24 ring. I suspect a Type 2 could replace my guide (e13 DRS), based on what my friends tell me about theirs.
 
#793 ·
If you're set on 2x10 I would just run a bashguard and clutch derailuer. The FD + clutch r der should keep your chain on.

For 1x, I think a 10speed chain with a stepped front chainring (i.e. wolftooth) might quiet things down enough to not run the chainguide. After experimenting with nearly every configuration I'm back on a blackspire der chainguide and zee clutch derailuer in back. I don't like changuides but I like chainslap even less!
 
#796 ·
Looks nice man, SLX stuff these days is just so much bang for your $$$. On your tyre selection, how's the volume compare between those two? That's the Minion DHR2 right? Me personally, I'd have those tyres reversed with the Ardent on the rear, never had much luck with them on the front, that lack of transition knobs on our terrain and for my riding style don't mix well.

so....very...stoked
XL w/ 150/12mm thru & Cane Creek DB Air & Marzocchi 44Micro ti29 15mmthru set @ 140. Hadley hubs, MTX33, Minion R/Ardent F, XT icetech brakes, RaceFace Atlas Bars/Chromag stem, SRAM 2X10 der/shifters, SLX 2x Crank (waiting for bash from Blackspire).
Some to-dos dropper post, chainstay protection & bashring...
 
#804 ·
Finally got around to cleaning up my Prime for some pics, too busy riding and it was quite a mess, but yesterday was a rainy day off so did a bit of spit 'n polish. Took a while to build as my DBAir arrived d.o.a. (wasn't holding air), didn't realize it until I was able to build the bike which was a month after I had the frame...

Bicycle tire Tire Bicycle wheel Bicycle frame Wheel

Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Tire Bicycle wheel Wheel

Build spec;

XL frame w/ DBAir
Fox Float 34 (not CTD thankfully!)
XT drivetrain
RF Turbine 180mm cranks - 32/22 w/bash
Hope EVO hubs w/ Project 321 green Flow rims
Chromag 60mm stem w/ RF SixC bars - green
Ergon cork grips
CK Inset 2 headset - green
Thompson post while dropper is out for service
WTB Laser seat
 
#805 ·
First one I've seen with green accents, looks pretty nice. I think a frame in that anodized green would look sweet :D Curious how tall are you Martin, can't remember exactly? Think you're somewhere a bit taller than me, running fairly similar cockpit fit. Sucks when you get new stuff and put it down waiting to use/build/work with it only to then find out it's defective and needs to be sent back.

Finally got around to cleaning up my Prime for some pics, too busy riding and it was quite a mess, but yesterday was a rainy day off so did a bit of spit 'n polish. Took a while to build as my DBAir arrived d.o.a. (wasn't holding air), didn't realize it until I was able to build the bike which was a month after I had the frame...
Build spec;

XL frame w/ DBAir / Fox Float 34 (not CTD thankfully!)/XT drivetrain / RF Turbine 180mm cranks - 32/22 w/bash / Hope EVO hubs w/ Project 321 green Flow rims / Chromag 60mm stem w/ RF SixC bars - green / Ergon cork grips / CK Inset 2 headset - green / Thompson post while dropper is out for service / WTB Laser seat
 
#806 ·
I'm a bit over 6' 3", shorter legs for my height at 34" inseam.
Yeah the shock issue was a bit of a pain, but the service centre in North Vancouver was pretty quick with the turnaround, but Canada Post decided to send it out on a bit of a tour (through Winnipeg, which is 3 provinces over from BC). Cane Creek apparently dynos each shock so it is very rare for them to have issues, mine was the first leaker they had seen with a brand new shock.
 
#808 ·
I'm a Clyde who rides xc trails that are just rough enough to make my back sore after a long ride. Don't do any big dh stuff, but I don't want to give up too much climbing ability (90% of climbs done well on my yelli ht).

Would the prime be overkill for a 275 Lb Clyde looking for a beefy fs?
 
#810 ·
If you don't want a frame that flexes under you, I'd say most definitely would make an excellent one bike. You could easily build it solidly <32lbs. I use mine for loads of climbing and yes a lighter frame would be nicer, but I know I can't break this thing and once there's none of those guys with S-Works/Ultimates in the 22-23lb range trying to out climb me and have me having to push to keep ahead, I don't mind :D FYI, I only weigh about 165lbs, 6'2".

I'm a Clyde who rides xc trails that are just rough enough to make my back sore after a long ride. Don't do any big dh stuff, but I don't want to give up too much climbing ability (90% of climbs done well on my yelli ht).

Would the prime be overkill for a 275 Lb Clyde looking for a beefy fs?
 
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