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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by phat-ant View Post
    Any more new builds floating out there in the wild? Seems like mine will be a few more months away need some pics to keep me going!
    same here, my dealer said it got shipped this week. so it will take a while until it reaches europe

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Hey Prime owners, I'd love to see pics of your homebrew mudguards for some inspiration.
    Danshee, when I made mine, I traced and dimensioned it! I have been running it since March... thanks to the ample tire clearance there's really no reason to remove it during dry seasons, since it weighs maybe 40g. 5 zipties total holding it on, the bracing holds it in place. I basically trimmed it down incrementally until it was a perfect fit.


    I think you could make it longer if you wanted. No issues with mine flexing/cracking or getting jammed up.

    Just made it out of stock plastic sheet- Maybe PeachesN'Cream can chime in and let us know what thickness he hooked me up with.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Production Prime Photo/Build thread-prime-fender.jpg  


  3. #203
    Learning to Fly
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Just made it out of stock plastic sheet- Maybe PeachesN'Cream can chime in and let us know what thickness he hooked me up with.
    I use 1/32 inch thick HDPE plastic that I get from a plastics shop (TAP here on the west coast). I big sheet runs all of $8. In a pinch you could probably buy a soft cover 3 ring binder and cut that up.

  4. #204
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    So, you guys have had your Primes over a month now, what's the report????
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  5. #205
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    Super keen to hear views also!
    I heard that mine is ready to ship, so wont be too much longer I hope

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    So, you guys have had your Primes over a month now, what's the report????
    Too busy riding to think

    I'm no engineer so I won't expand on all the technical aspects, but simply put, I'm faster up and down than on any other bike I've ever ridden! I've owned a Sultan and a Mach 429 and I've ridden Epics, Stumpjumpers, an SB95, a Tallboy, Rip9s, a WFO9s and a Foes Shaver and this thing, ON TECH, tops them all. I won't BS you guys and say it smokes a 100mm travel race bike on buff singletrack(but it's close!) but if you like chunk, stop looking! I consider this bike a steal for what it's capable of along with it's "low" entry price.

    Everyone keeps wanting to compare it to the SB95, which is a somewhat fair comparison, but the Prime is $500 cheaper! That's a Prime, an LEV and a kickass set of tires. Or a Prime and a Cyber Monday deal on a Fox 34

    The Prime is a crazy good deal in this market of inflated pricetags and the more I ride it, the more I lean towards the WFO9 being the only true competitor. I realize the Satori and Transition have close geo #s but I seriously doubt they pedal as well as the Prime and the WFO. I've never ridden a Satori/Transition, so I may be wrong, but an old school suspension design compared to CVA and the new KS Link seems outdated I've ridden many Stumpjumpers which, aside from geo, are pretty close in suspension action to the Kona/Transition design, am I right? Wasn't impressed...

    Bottom line, I had my eye on this thing well over a year ago when the concept was thrown out there. I was worried about better options becoming available while Keith got it to the market, but I'm glad to say that it still stands alone I couldn't be happier!

  7. #207
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    Great stuff DFYFZX, I am very much looking forward to building it up as soon as it arrives!
    I'm Still slightly on the fence on the size ordered, I have been riding a medium rune v1 and a Nomadc in medium for the last year, so I am hoping the medium prime will be just about right! fingers crossed

    Build pics will follow as soon as it arrives anyone got any more pics or video to share???

  8. #208
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    I have also been busy, working and riding. I have absolutely no complaints, climbs tech very well, bombs down through it amazingly. I've ridden mine in the nastiest stuff that I've taken any bike that I've had, and my Prime handles it better than any of them. Here's a quick video, I scratched mine up a bit.


  9. #209
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    The 150mm dropouts are ready, should be here in a couple of weeks. Once I get my LG1+ rear hub on, with the 12mm axle, it ought to really stiffen things up, not there's any flex to be of concern now.

  10. #210
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    are there any neons built up yet?

  11. #211
    G_g
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    Quick question to anyone who has a Medium Prime (or even a large).

    Can you measure your rear hose length? I am going to buy a used rear brake, but i need to know if I'll need a longer hose, to adjust price with seller. The brake came in a small 26" hardtail, so I'll need some measurements from you guys to see if it's worth the money

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Quick question to anyone who has a Medium Prime (or even a large).

    Can you measure your rear hose length? I am going to buy a used rear brake, but i need to know if I'll need a longer hose, to adjust price with seller. The brake came in a small 26" hardtail, so I'll need some measurements from you guys to see if it's worth the money
    1420mm, medium frame, 750mm bars.

  13. #213
    G_g
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    Thanks Optimus, waiting for seller to answer

  14. #214
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    anybody know where I can buy a large raw w/ 142 drops? Jenson and The Path only have 135.

    Thanks!

  15. #215
    dlc
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    The barn.

  16. #216
    G_g
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    Last details to figure in my build, since all I need now is the frame and a chainguide.

    I'll be using a 28t (64bcd), and I still have the 104 tabs, and dont feel like chopping them off. Still undecided if I'll use a bash or not (blackspire granny god, or BBG trials bash).

    Some people seem to use E13LG1+ with sucess, what size ring is being used? Since stock they are for 32t rings min, and there isn't much material left in the groove where you move the slider to adjust for size, i guess that i can file it down to like a 30t ring height. In that case, there should be contact between the slider and the 104mm tabs, or no?

    Since I'll be using a clutch rear mech, can I get away with just a top guide (XCX, for example). Using either the iscg05, or the S3 version (even tough the S3 you cant lower it that much... unless i put the slider bolt in the same place as the forward mounting bolt? But then i might not have acess to the rear one... Or just mount the slider directly in the S3 front hole of the frame with some spacer? I might need something to prevent the slider from rotating though... Still dont know if I'll have interference with the 104bcd tabs

    Other idea was to get a blackspire stinger BB mount, and a e13 slider, and then drill the stinger in the exact place to mount the slider

    DMR seems to sell a chain guide that works down to 28t, dunno if it works with my setup, since I have the 64/104 spider which may cause inteference... (read MRP below)
    MRP micro doesnt work (they say only for spiderless rings, so...)
    There is also the hope chain guide, which seems to go quite low for a iscg 05


    What seems to be the safest bet for now, is to get a e13 SRS slider/superstar plasma for bash, a granny god and then mount it with a blackspire stinger bb mount with custom drilling.

    Any other hack ideas?
    Last edited by G_g; 12-04-2012 at 09:51 AM.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Some people seem to use E13LG1+ with sucess, what size ring is being used? Since stock they are for 32t rings min, and there isn't much material left in the groove where you move the slider to adjust for size, i guess that i can file it down to like a 30t ring height. In that case, there should be contact between the slider and the 104mm tabs, or no?
    I'm running the E13 LS1+ (basically the cheaper version of the LG1+), 32-36t range, with a 30t ring, it works great.

    If I was building from scratch, I would probably just do the top guide and a clutch derailleur. Lighter and simpler...

  18. #218
    G_g
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    I am mostly set on just the top guide.
    The main thing is that I am using a 28t, with a spider.

    The mrp bling ring and guide are possible, but it is expensive

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    I am mostly set on just the top guide.
    The main thing is that I am using a 28t, with a spider.
    I'll be using a 28t (64bcd), and I still have the 104 tabs, and dont feel like chopping them off.
    The mrp bling ring and guide are possible, but it is expensive
    Something to consider... if you're running a single ring on your granny gear tabs, you'll probably need to move your cranks out to get a workable chainline and chainstay yoke clearance.. which may create other issues. Personally... I'd look for another way to do it.

    PS- if you are looking or a crankset- the E13/Hive cranks I've been running since June are BY FAR the best cranks/BB I have used. Super stiff, totally silent and simple to work on. The only bummer- since the bearings are outboard/oversize, the BB needs to be removed if you want to pull your BB pivot on the KS link- no big deal. Bonus the E13 cranks & BB come with all tools required.

  20. #220
    G_g
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    Well, considering I have a Sram carbon crank, I won't change that. I have a X0 2x10 with the 64-104 bcd spider. (24-38 rings, albeit I will only use a 28t in the granny). According to page 15 of this manual:
    Truvativ X0 10-Speed Crankset | SRAM
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Z6...76_-_rev_b.pdf

    I will have a 42mm chainline in the granny. Considering the optimal chainline for our 9spd and 10spd cassettes is 44.5mm, I am way better than the usual 50-51mm chainlines.
    I could use an extra spacer on drive side, getting 44.5mm chainline, which will be bang on, but that might leave less axle on the other side... Or I may face the granny tabs a bit. To be honest, I want to sell this spider since aftermarket it is pretty expensive. If I can sell it, I'd buy a MRP bling ring and be done with the chainline.

    Chainguide is still a problem though... Word is works-components is working on it, and making a guide: Works Components - Angle Headsets to fit Most Frame Types & CNC Bicycle Components Proudly Made in the UK
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    I am waiting on DMR and Hope to reply my questions about the compatibility of their guides with 28t (didn't mention the chainline, just getting low enough for a 28t and not hitting the 104 tabs isn't bad)

    There is also pauls Paul Component Engineering - Chain Keeper BB but i guess it hits the frame, see this pic: http://www.paulcomp.com/images/ckbbd2full.png To have it on the granny, it would definitively hit the frame.

    If the DMR or hope say it works, good. If not, custom home-made shenanigans it is

  21. #221
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    Those cranks have the removable spider, right? MRP Bling ring or HBC ring should work for you in that case. Getting either one in a timely fashion might be an issue though.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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  22. #222
    G_g
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    They do have. I have written before that the MRP bling ring works, but that fcker is expensive, and it is a wear part. I would much better replace a 10$ alivio chainring than a 60$++ bling ring. At least I can sell the spider, but the rings are still expensive... And I would be stuck to MRP and HBC rings (hbc needs months of waiting...). I try to avoid getting on brand specific stuff, like the flexibility of common options (i dont buy pre-built wheels, like mavic, for example)

    If I can't get the guide to work or the chainline is too inboard, I will consider shelling out for the bling ring, but trying to avoid that.

  23. #223
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    True. Well, if you get stuck and like blue, PM me. I could cut that wait time.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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  24. #224
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    I'm curious G_g, why not just use the 24/38 rings the crank comes with, an FD and a bash on the ISG tabs? I run those exact size rings and find they work excellent, give good range of gearing and having that 24t makes life a whole lot easier when you're done for and trying to climb your way home
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  25. #225
    G_g
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    I have a Canfield hub that allows me to use a 9-36 cassette. No more front derailleurs for me.

    On the Rune, the 32t ring was good for everything, so with 28t 9-36 i get even more range. With the shadow+ rear derailleur, I have lower tension, just need to get a working 28t upper guide, which seems to be problematic.

    Also, HBC rings seem to throw the chainline way off to the outside.

    As far as the guide, kinda settled. I'll use a metal plate to do the back (probably from a blackspire stinger), most likely BB mount, because I can rotate those. I think I have parts of an old truvativ boxguide which should work. Then I just need to either create a hole (or keyway) for the slider part: Superstar Components - High Spec Parts For Peanuts or similar from e13, dmr, mrp or whatever brand.

    Heck, I can even use the boxguide, there is enough metal there to take the keyways almost to near the BB. That should work. Unless all the parts in the back interfere with the frame... Guess it will run in the same trouble has the Pauls... But rotating the lower to the upright position or getting a Stinget BB mount will definitively make the type of backplate I need.

    If I get the confirmation that neither the DMR works from stock, I'll go with the DIY guide, the hope doesn't have a full cage, requiring a bash, and seems it is only down to 32t (pending confirmation)

    Off-topic: I also enjoy this "solve my problem kind of thing". Wish I had a mill and a lathe, and where to buy raw materials (aluminium plates in this case, and some alu blocks). Looking at a mini mill base, and I have the vertical drill, so I guess I could make a "el cheapo" mill, but still dunno where to source aluminium or plastic blocks. Send PM if you have any ideas about this mill thing.
    I'll probably get this base: Micro compound table KT 70 Proxxon: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

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