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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    No one's running a 120mm fork on their Prime, why would they? Prime is designed around a 140mm fork, BB height is perfect with it, as is the HA, why would anyone purposely lower the BB and steepen the HA? I had intentions to try a 120mm fork on mine, but once I got it I quickly realised what a silly exercise it would be. If you want a bike with less travel or steeper angles, maybe the Prime isn't for you.
    so you roll your eyes at someone who is thinking of doing the same thing you were thinking of??

  2. #302
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    If you are seriously considering the Prime, definitely sell the 120mm and buy a 140mm fork, I think if you don't run the Prime with it's intended travel/A2C fork you'd really be missing out on the entire experience the entire package gives..

    You could run it in the steep setting which would raise the BB 1/2" over the slackest setting, but then your HTA would be about 69.25*, which I guess is not too bad, but about the same as the RIP. In running the 120mm fork you'd be dropping the BB probably more than the 1/2" down close to 13" UNsagged, SAGged then it's probably be close to 12", which where I ride equals lots of pedals strikes or lots of pedal timing and the really nice thing about the Prime is it's ability to just sit and pedal (plow) over/through stuff, which doesn't quite mesh with having to time pedal strikes to avoid pedal strikes. Now there was one tester I'm aware of who said he'd like a lower BB, but the majority I think liked the higher BB and hence the height stayed the same from pre-production to production.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    Cause thats all i got:-) i come from a niner rip9 which has a steep hta compared to the prime. I havent checked the rip bb height comparatively though. If i buy a prime ill be trying the 120. Hopefully such blasphemy wont bring the end of the world upon us.
    Where do you see I rolled my eyes? No where I said crazy, that's different As to the why I was thinking it, because I was a tester, that's why, you know, the people who test stuff out to see if it's a good idea or not and that was a general consensus AFIK, hence it was not changed, just an in between setting added.
    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    so you roll your eyes at someone who is thinking of doing the same thing you were thinking of??
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  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by sakucee View Post
    Keith, what size chainring is the Prime optimized for? 32 or 30t? Wondering should i order 30t for my XX1..
    Thre is no such thing as a single optimal chainring size. It depends on what characteristics you want and where you are in the travel. That said the range I would recommend goes from 28-34 if running a XX1 setup to match the 29" gear ratios, and I have matched the linkage kinemtaics to this chainring range.

    Personally if running 1x11 I would opt for a 32 tooth chainring on the prime, as that would be plenty easy enough on the climbs, and give good speed on fast descents and reduce pedal kickback slightly over a smaller chainring option.
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  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    Cause thats all i got:-) Hopefully such blasphemy wont bring the end of the world upon us.
    Sasquatch- 120mm won't be quite ideal, but it'll get the job done and you'll still love the bike.

    Giving up 20mm travel is not a huge deal, the impact to the geometry is the concern.....
    Keeping it in perspective- 20mm difference in front will steepen the head angle around 1 degree and lower the BB around 6mm. Some prime owners are running internal lower headset cups, they're already giving up 10mm+ of fork length. Look for a headset with an external lower cup, to help keep the head tube where it should be.

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Where do you see I rolled my eyes? No where I said crazy, that's different As to the why I was thinking it, because I was a tester, that's why, you know, the people who test stuff out to see if it's a good idea or not and that was a general consensus AFIK, hence it was not changed, just an in between setting added.
    tester? you paid for the privilege, you aren't a professional "tester" by any stretch, sorry to burst your bubble.

    like fm stated, en external cup with a 120mm fork won't ruin the geometry. he could also add a + 5mm crown race to get it even closer

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Sasquatch- 120mm won't be quite ideal, but it'll get the job done and you'll still love the bike.

    Giving up 20mm travel is not a huge deal, the impact to the geometry is the concern.....
    Keeping it in perspective- 20mm difference in front will steepen the head angle around 1 degree and lower the BB around 6mm. Some prime owners are running internal lower headset cups, they're already giving up 10mm+ of fork length. Look for a headset with an external lower cup, to help keep the head tube where it should be.
    <nitpick> i think production frame is supposed to be with internal cups with 140mm fork </nitpick>

  7. #307
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    Is this bike "too much" to be a "trail bike", with XC-terrain and necessary pavement bits? Is this AM bike with clear downhill flavor? Or is this more like a strong build, go-anywhere, how far you want, trail bike? No proper mountains here, more like constant climbing and descending hills and a lot of flat areas, some steep parts but mostly short-lived. Roots and rocks and dense woods. I'm also a lightweight dude who has habit of standing and smashing climbs. I think it looks absolutely beautiful in every way, but I have feeling it may be like drooling after an off-road vehicle that eats up too much gas and that I wouldn't drive where it were meant to be driven anyway. I'm just wondering if the suspension design and geometry options and such would make it fine all-rounder. Also whether it's bike you climb to enjoy the descents or enjoy the whole thing pretty equally.

  8. #308
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    First yellow completes that I've seen anywhere.

    konahonzo

  9. #309
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    Sakucee, looks like you're right- I see the production head tubes are 44/56mm. 1.5 head tubes are 49mm and I don't see any 56mm external cups available.

    welcome to the trainwreck that is MTB headset "standards"!

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horros View Post
    Is this bike "too much" to be a "trail bike", with XC-terrain and necessary pavement bits? Is this AM bike with clear downhill flavor? Or is this more like a strong build, go-anywhere, how far you want, trail bike? No proper mountains here, more like constant climbing and descending hills and a lot of flat areas, some steep parts but mostly short-lived. Roots and rocks and dense woods. I'm also a lightweight dude who has habit of standing and smashing climbs. I think it looks absolutely beautiful in every way, but I have feeling it may be like drooling after an off-road vehicle that eats up too much gas and that I wouldn't drive where it were meant to be driven anyway. I'm just wondering if the suspension design and geometry options and such would make it fine all-rounder. Also whether it's bike you climb to enjoy the descents or enjoy the whole thing pretty equally.
    I have to pedal a lot on my trails, no long downhills and everything is infested with roots and rocks and wheelie drops, no complaints so far, i do run 28t single in front, i have no idea whats the current build weight, really should measure it..

    Alot of it depends what shock you decide to run, CTD shocks have massive platform on climb mode.

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    tester? you paid for the privilege, you aren't a professional "tester" by any stretch, sorry to burst your bubble.

    like fm stated, en external cup with a 120mm fork won't ruin the geometry. he could also add a + 5mm crown race to get it even closer
    I don't see where he said he was a 'professional' tester. He is part of the group who got a 'proto' frame at a pretty good deal and we did have our own discussion page where the 'testers' did discuss pros and cons of various set-ups. BTW there currently isn't an external headset for the 56mm tapered headsets.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    First yellow completes that I've seen anywhere.

    Best color I've seen. If I decide to get one it will have to be yellow. The color definitely fits the aggressive nature of the bike.

  13. #313
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    Dang loving the yellow!! and I've Just heard that my Raw Frame has finally arrived in the UK I just need to sneak him through customs lol

  14. #314
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    I've read somewhere on this forum that for 2014 there will be a 562mm 160mm 29er fork.

    Would such a fork be ok to use on a Prime? Warranty etc.?

    The yellow ones look absolutely fantastic. I want to buy/build a large frame for bike park and shuttle days.

    I'd put a 150mm 34 on there, as they're already available.
    But if a 160mm 29er fork would/will be available, I'd love to fit one. IF Banshee allows that.

    Maybe someone can chime in and enlighten us.

    As a side note: The Prime is really a stunning bike. Wonderful shape and design. Congratulations, Banshee.

    Greetings Znarf

  15. #315
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    Built.

    34.75 lbs

    It required grinding the front derailleur a bit, but not a big deal. Everything shifts with two plus bash up front and 150 rear.

    This is a very, very robust and stiff frame.

    I like the CCDB around the driveway. It will truly do anything you want it to do.

    When set to slack, it appears to be a geometric twin to my 2010 Stumpy: Perhaps 1/2 degree slacker, no more up front. Cockpit is identical. BB height identical, Chainstay identical.

    It just weighs 3.5 lbs more.

    1 lb is in the fork. The wheels probably account for 1/2 to 1 lb, and figure another lb in the frame/CCDB shock.

    Hopefully some ride impressions with pics tomorrow.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  16. #316
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    That's with the Shimano XT FD then that you had to grind? No issues with the SRAM XO, so something learned I guess in that maybe the Shimano's are still not a perfect fit.

    With regards to your Stumpy, was it a 26er or 29er? If it was the 29er you're right, everything but the HA is almost identical, but the HA should be about 2 degrees slacker. Was/is this a feeling you're going by? If so, if you used an F34 140mm fork, it has a 51mm offset and the Stumpy used a 120mm with 46 or 48mm offset, so the greater offset makes the Prime handle snappier than you think it should and why it might feel only slightly slacker when in fact it's 2 degrees

    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    Built............34.75 lbs

    It required grinding the front derailleur a bit, but not a big deal. Everything shifts with two plus bash up front and 150 rear.

    This is a very, very robust and stiff frame.

    I like the CCDB around the driveway. It will truly do anything you want it to do.

    When set to slack, it appears to be a geometric twin to my 2010 Stumpy: Perhaps 1/2 degree slacker, no more up front. Cockpit is identical. BB height identical, Chainstay identical.

    It just weighs 3.5 lbs more.

    1 lb is in the fork. The wheels probably account for 1/2 to 1 lb, and figure another lb in the frame/CCDB shock.

    Hopefully some ride impressions with pics tomorrow.
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  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    That's with the Shimano XT FD then that you had to grind? No issues with the SRAM XO, so something learned I guess in that maybe the Shimano's are still not a perfect fit.

    With regards to your Stumpy, was it a 26er or 29er? If it was the 29er you're right, everything but the HA is almost identical, but the HA should be about 2 degrees slacker. Was/is this a feeling you're going by? If so, if you used an F34 140mm fork, it has a 51mm offset and the Stumpy used a 120mm with 46 or 48mm offset, so the greater offset makes the Prime handle snappier than you think it should and why it might feel only slightly slacker when in fact it's 2 degrees
    It's the Jenson Shimano derailleur linked to above. I had to do a more aggressive grind on my Lenz bikes. It hits the up and down part of the main rear triangle. And the triangle will push the body of the derailleur slightly on full compression with the shock disconnected.

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357310472.004444.jpg

    I am pretty impressed with the cable routing and guides. Good design Keith.

    Angles are measured: Fox 36 with machined crown on the Prime 68-68.5. Reba 140 on the Stumpy 68-68.5. Both have a 545mm A-C. The Prime is absolutely, positively no slacker.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    The Prime is absolutely, positively no slacker.
    Cool, what settings are your drop-outs in? Ah I see- slack.
    Last edited by FM; 01-04-2013 at 12:16 PM.

  19. #319
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    Ah crap, so despite changes to fix this, still an issue with Shimano FDs or at least older models. Did you try compressing the suspension with the shock in place just deflated? I'd expect there's a bit of play that the travel doesn't use and disconnecting the shock would then let it hit. I'm guessing the Shimano cage is longer/deeper than the SRAMs, hence causing it to hit the stay, think for the newer 780 model they shortened/narrowed this up. I've about 3/8" clearance between the stay and my XO FD on full compression, even when I remove the shock it still has just a smidge less clearance.
    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    It's the Jenson Shimano derailleur linked to above. I had to do a more aggressive grind on my Lenz bikes. It hits the up and down part of the main rear triangle. And the triangle will push the body of the derailleur slightly on full compression with the shock disconnected.
    Yeah routing is very good. Did they put a cable boss inside the seatstay for the rear brake cable to be tied to? Curious, it was something I mentioned in my feedback as I thought it could use it, although I haven't had an issues with mine that doesn't have it and I've run it with a cable tie holding the line in place and without, just always cautious.

    Quote Originally Posted by Enel
    I am pretty impressed with the cable routing and guides. Good design Keith.
    Ah OK, so not a stock Stumpy, longer fork, got it - 2010 Stumpy specs list it as coming with a 120mm fork. Interested to hear your thoughts on how they compared, especially stiffness wise. For me the stiffness just inspires so much confidence that I'm trying and riding stuff I never thought I would.
    Quote Originally Posted by Enel
    Angles are measured: Fox 36 with machined crown on the Prime 68-68.5. Reba 140 on the Stumpy 68-68.5. Both have a 545mm A-C. The Prime is absolutely, positively no slacker.
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  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Ah OK, so not a stock Stumpy, longer fork, got it - 2010 Stumpy specs list it as coming with a 120mm fork.
    Yeah, all things in context... comparing the geometry charts, looks the the stumpy with a 140 fork will be pretty close, except a slacker seat angle/longer TT within a similar wheelbase.

    All conjecture
    Looking forward to some ride reports!

    As for the cable routing- there is "secret cable guide"- just wrap a zip-tie diagonally around the swingarm just above the cross-brace. sorry for the rotated pic.


  21. #321
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    I came up with a similar resolution to FM, but added an extra loop to keep the line from sawing into the frame with time.

    EDIT: It looks like we also share the same ardent obsession with a meticulously cleaned bike



    Lynx...you mean this bad boy?

    Last edited by jncarpenter; 01-04-2013 at 03:40 PM.


  22. #322
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    Glamour shots

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357360787.503158.jpgProduction Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357360798.741632.jpgProduction Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357360815.803112.jpgProduction Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357360832.848662.jpg

    It rides very nicely indeed. It is not much different than the Stumpy, but this is very preliminary. I can say it does not have any noticeable bad habits at least at slower speeds.

    The CCDB is going to take some time to tune. It will behave just about any way you like though.

    Vids to follow.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  23. #323
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    Yup, that's the one I'm talking about Bit obsessive about keeping lines/cables OUT of the wheels Good to see that us un-paid "proffessional testers" feedback was maybe of some value
    Quote Originally Posted by jncarpenter View Post
    Lynx...you mean this bad boy?

    Man Enel, you sure do have some nice terrain for the Prime, you're going to have a blast on that stuff, for me especially the slow speed, chunky stuff where the stiffness really makes a difference is where I love the Prime. Would love to be able to try a CC DB, have only heard excellent things about them, unfortunately my pocket doesn't have those $$ right now so I'll be going with a X-Fusion 02 RLX or RCX first and then maybe the Vector AIR after.

    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    Glamour shots
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It rides very nicely indeed. It is not much different than the Stumpy, but this is very preliminary. I can say it does not have any noticeable bad habits at least at slower speeds.

    The CCDB is going to take some time to tune. It will behave just about any way you like though.

    Vids to follow.
    Last edited by LyNx; 01-05-2013 at 04:17 AM.
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  24. #324
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    Good news Prime has finally landed!

    Couple of build pics.

    Medium, Fit seems very good just riding around the street, I am sure will need to tweak once out on the trail tomorrow

    Still trying to dial in the gears and need to figure out how heavy I am to set the suspension up a wee bit better.

    No idea how heavy the bike is either

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p1010975.jpg

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p1010976.jpg

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p1010985.jpg

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p1020004.jpg

  25. #325
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    Vids. Cover your ears if they are sensitive

    Climbing:

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/56798845" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/56798845">Ugly but Effective</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user457842">Enel</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

    Rolling:

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/56798775" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/56798775">Gap Roller</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user457842">Enel</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

    Tight chunk:

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/56778294" width="500" height="282" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/56778294">Chess</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user457842">Enel</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

    I don't know what happened with the camera on that one.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  26. #326
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    The more I ride this bike, the bigger the grin
    Currently sitting at 31.8 lbs







  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Yup, that's the one I'm talking about Bit obsessive about keeping lines/cables OUT of the wheels Good to see that us un-paid "proffessional testers" feedback was maybe of some value
    good thing you have long arms otherwise patting yourself on the back might be more of a challenge for you. thank god for banshee you were a tester. tell us some more about your 2x7 drivetrain, seems the way all the major manufacturers are going 1x10 and 1x11 are so passe

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    good thing you have long arms otherwise patting yourself on the back might be more of a challenge for you. thank god for banshee you were a tester. tell us some more about your 2x7 drivetrain, seems the way all the major manufacturers are going 1x10 and 1x11 are so passe
    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to qbert2000 again.

    And to jncarpenter, that's a very dialed looking Prime! Love it!
    konahonzo

  29. #329
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    JNC, Phat-Ant, Enel, bikes are looking awesome!

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    the bikes do look great btw. the graphics look good on the raw, a little to bold on the coloured frames.

    so jnc, how much bettre than the sultan?

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinS View Post
    I don't see where he said he was a 'professional' tester. He is part of the group who got a 'proto' frame at a pretty good deal and we did have our own discussion page where the 'testers' did discuss pros and cons of various set-ups. BTW there currently isn't an external headset for the 56mm tapered headsets.
    you can use a cc angleset in the neutral setting or with the offset gimbals too

    AngleSet

    they make a zs44/ec56 model

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    you can use a cc angleset in the neutral setting or with the offset gimbals too

    AngleSet

    they make a zs44/ec56 model
    Good (if expensive) find!

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinS View Post
    Good (if expensive) find!
    it is expensive, but cheaper than a new fork for someone if they do want to try a 120mm fork or just an extra 10mm in lower stack height

  34. #334
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    What do you think of your CTD, jn? I wasn't too crazy about mine in the chunk that I ride, tomorrow is test and tune day for my new DBair.

  35. #335
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    So, pay $150+ for the angleset to give a 120mm fork a try, which is not what the frame is designed around or take that $150+, sell the 120mm fork and then maybe add a few more $ to get it right Sounds like a great plan to me
    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    you can use a cc angleset in the neutral setting or with the offset gimbals too

    AngleSet

    they make a zs44/ec56 model
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  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    So, pay $150+ for the angleset to give a 120mm fork a try, which is not what the frame is designed around or take that $150+, sell the 120mm fork and then maybe add a few more $ to get it right Sounds like a great plan to me
    give it up dude. the link is there for anyone to try if that's the way "they" want to go. if you don't, then don't.

    i think it's retarded to run 2x7 gearing when 1x10 and now 1x11 is dialed, but you are free to continue to do so just like anyone is free to try a 120mm fork if they so desire.

    stop trying so hard to be relevant. it's the internet. no one cares that you recommended a cable boss other than you. who else that tested is here patting themselves on the back about it??

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    so jnc, how much bettre than the sultan?
    Well, "better" is obviously relative...in this case, the Prime works much better for me. The Sultan was more of a xc/trail bike...despite all my efforts to make it work for me, I just couldn't get there with it. Mostly we are talking geometry; the Sultan had me feeling like I had too much weight on the front end of the bike. I tried a taller fork, ran the rear shock a tad softer, riser bars....still front heavy. The Prime (in slack setting) feels much more natural to me descending. I like to have my weight on my feet, and move around the bike while standing...the Prime is a superb descender. The faster you push it, the more controlled and solid it feels.

    Also, I initially thought overall stiffness was a wash between the two, but the more time I spend on the Prime it has proven itself to be the more stout feeling chassis (especially with the 150mm rear wheel). Cornering is where you can really feel this...the shorter rear doesn't hurt either.

    All in all, the Banshee has me grabbing a FS for my rides more than ever before. It honestly feels like a fully suspended version of the ByStickel

    Optimus, I am also struggling with the CTD shock. Initially it felt to harsh when setup with proper sag. I removed the white spacer from the air can, and that helped alot with the overall plushness...but now I can easily bottom it if I try. I need to spend a bit of time grinding the spacer down some and try putting it back in the air can before I bail on the Fox. I think an Avalanche Chubby would be a nice match


  38. #338
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    Just chuck the CTD and get piggyback shock on it.

    Liking my DHX-A on mine.

  39. #339
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    Vector HLR Air

    There's always this option, as well. I've been really happy with the performance, and the price is pretty good, too.

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  40. #340
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    First ride out today, The fit is great! Medium seems to be just how I like it so panic over

    Only a short loop 18km or so but all single track trail centre fun fun fun

    The bike handles fantasticly well I had to apply the brakes many times for fear of breaking my self :P

    I Look forward to taking it for a spin around my local bog filled mud pits tomorrow

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p1020022.jpg

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  41. #341
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    phat-ant,

    How tall are you? Stem length? I'm torn between a medium and large.

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by sakucee View Post
    Just chuck the CTD and get piggyback shock on it.

    Liking my DHX-A on mine.
    Have to agree that the Prime was one of the first bikes I've ridden where the DHX-A didn't feel like crap....

  43. #343
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    Hi Colin, its a 70mm Stem and 711mm bars. I am around 5 foot 11 inches. certainly does feel a good fit for my size and shape.

  44. #344
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    Good news is, you won't have to worry about mud clearance with the Prime, there's gobs. I would however maybe install a mud guard or two if you ride in muddy conditions often (you live in Britain, so that's a for sure), FM fashioned one for the rear and his drawings in this thread someplace, pretty simple but effective. I made one for the fork and it helps keep gunk off the seals quite well, never installed one for the rear as I don't hold that area as so sensitive as the fork seals and stanchions and never have had to stop to clear it out since owning the Prime despite going through some nasty stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by phat-ant View Post
    First ride out today, The fit is great! Medium seems to be just how I like it so panic over

    Only a short loop 18km or so but all single track trail centre fun fun fun

    The bike handles fantasticly well I had to apply the brakes many times for fear of breaking my self :P

    I Look forward to taking it for a spin around my local bog filled mud pits tomorrow

    ]
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  45. #345
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    Cheers LyNx. I will be making up some mud gaurds for sure just havent had chance to get any bits to do so yet. We have had the wettest winter on record or something like that, and aside from the odd day here or there its basically been raining for at least a month. Fingers crossed for some cold dry weather to firm up the local woods some what! I will let you know how it gets on after tonight!

  46. #346
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    I have shimmed seatpost for the first time on my bike, i noticed today the shim length is 5.7cm inside seat tube, is this enough or should i get 10 cm shim?

    The current shim extends easily past the gusset on top tube.

  47. #347
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    I've always been of the understanding that 4", or approximately 10cm, is the minimum you should run for a shim. 5.7cm seems really short.

  48. #348
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    I've seen & owned a few frames that did funky things after having been shimmed. Other frames have no problem.

    One thing to watch out for, using a shim adds another set of tolerances. If the shim diameter is a slightly loose fit in the frame, and the post diameter is a slightly loose fit in the shim, it can have the same effect as running an undersize seat post... you end up crimping the frame at the seat collar.

    If you've got to run one, I'd say get the longest one possible, and "shim the shim" with pop-can to make it a really snug fit. If you're running shim, and will still be adjusting the post height frequently with a QR... that's risky in my experience.

    It could be a non-issue 90% of the time, but I've seen it get ugly once or twice!

  49. #349
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    It is because of the dropper post comes in 27.2 only larger sizes are done with shims, the fit seems good,on the diameters, the length concerns me now since it does not reach top tube, i only have few rides on it and i don't weigh much so i don't think there is damage done, yet.

  50. #350
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    Ok 2nd ride on the prime and for this area it was actually pretty dry considering, but I think I will be making up some rear mud catchers for sure!

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p1020044.jpg

    Good fun out in the night though loving it

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