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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by phat-ant View Post
    Any more new builds floating out there in the wild? Seems like mine will be a few more months away need some pics to keep me going!
    same here, my dealer said it got shipped this week. so it will take a while until it reaches europe

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Hey Prime owners, I'd love to see pics of your homebrew mudguards for some inspiration.
    Danshee, when I made mine, I traced and dimensioned it! I have been running it since March... thanks to the ample tire clearance there's really no reason to remove it during dry seasons, since it weighs maybe 40g. 5 zipties total holding it on, the bracing holds it in place. I basically trimmed it down incrementally until it was a perfect fit.


    I think you could make it longer if you wanted. No issues with mine flexing/cracking or getting jammed up.

    Just made it out of stock plastic sheet- Maybe PeachesN'Cream can chime in and let us know what thickness he hooked me up with.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Production Prime Photo/Build thread-prime-fender.jpg  


  3. #203
    Learning to Fly
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Just made it out of stock plastic sheet- Maybe PeachesN'Cream can chime in and let us know what thickness he hooked me up with.
    I use 1/32 inch thick HDPE plastic that I get from a plastics shop (TAP here on the west coast). I big sheet runs all of $8. In a pinch you could probably buy a soft cover 3 ring binder and cut that up.

  4. #204
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    So, you guys have had your Primes over a month now, what's the report????
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  5. #205
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    Super keen to hear views also!
    I heard that mine is ready to ship, so wont be too much longer I hope

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    So, you guys have had your Primes over a month now, what's the report????
    Too busy riding to think

    I'm no engineer so I won't expand on all the technical aspects, but simply put, I'm faster up and down than on any other bike I've ever ridden! I've owned a Sultan and a Mach 429 and I've ridden Epics, Stumpjumpers, an SB95, a Tallboy, Rip9s, a WFO9s and a Foes Shaver and this thing, ON TECH, tops them all. I won't BS you guys and say it smokes a 100mm travel race bike on buff singletrack(but it's close!) but if you like chunk, stop looking! I consider this bike a steal for what it's capable of along with it's "low" entry price.

    Everyone keeps wanting to compare it to the SB95, which is a somewhat fair comparison, but the Prime is $500 cheaper! That's a Prime, an LEV and a kickass set of tires. Or a Prime and a Cyber Monday deal on a Fox 34

    The Prime is a crazy good deal in this market of inflated pricetags and the more I ride it, the more I lean towards the WFO9 being the only true competitor. I realize the Satori and Transition have close geo #s but I seriously doubt they pedal as well as the Prime and the WFO. I've never ridden a Satori/Transition, so I may be wrong, but an old school suspension design compared to CVA and the new KS Link seems outdated I've ridden many Stumpjumpers which, aside from geo, are pretty close in suspension action to the Kona/Transition design, am I right? Wasn't impressed...

    Bottom line, I had my eye on this thing well over a year ago when the concept was thrown out there. I was worried about better options becoming available while Keith got it to the market, but I'm glad to say that it still stands alone I couldn't be happier!

  7. #207
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    Great stuff DFYFZX, I am very much looking forward to building it up as soon as it arrives!
    I'm Still slightly on the fence on the size ordered, I have been riding a medium rune v1 and a Nomadc in medium for the last year, so I am hoping the medium prime will be just about right! fingers crossed

    Build pics will follow as soon as it arrives anyone got any more pics or video to share???

  8. #208
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    I have also been busy, working and riding. I have absolutely no complaints, climbs tech very well, bombs down through it amazingly. I've ridden mine in the nastiest stuff that I've taken any bike that I've had, and my Prime handles it better than any of them. Here's a quick video, I scratched mine up a bit.

    <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Bk4asczMK9o?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  9. #209
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    The 150mm dropouts are ready, should be here in a couple of weeks. Once I get my LG1+ rear hub on, with the 12mm axle, it ought to really stiffen things up, not there's any flex to be of concern now.

  10. #210
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    are there any neons built up yet?

  11. #211
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    Quick question to anyone who has a Medium Prime (or even a large).

    Can you measure your rear hose length? I am going to buy a used rear brake, but i need to know if I'll need a longer hose, to adjust price with seller. The brake came in a small 26" hardtail, so I'll need some measurements from you guys to see if it's worth the money

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Quick question to anyone who has a Medium Prime (or even a large).

    Can you measure your rear hose length? I am going to buy a used rear brake, but i need to know if I'll need a longer hose, to adjust price with seller. The brake came in a small 26" hardtail, so I'll need some measurements from you guys to see if it's worth the money
    1420mm, medium frame, 750mm bars.

  13. #213
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    Thanks Optimus, waiting for seller to answer

  14. #214
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    anybody know where I can buy a large raw w/ 142 drops? Jenson and The Path only have 135.

    Thanks!

  15. #215
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    The barn.

  16. #216
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    Last details to figure in my build, since all I need now is the frame and a chainguide.

    I'll be using a 28t (64bcd), and I still have the 104 tabs, and dont feel like chopping them off. Still undecided if I'll use a bash or not (blackspire granny god, or BBG trials bash).

    Some people seem to use E13LG1+ with sucess, what size ring is being used? Since stock they are for 32t rings min, and there isn't much material left in the groove where you move the slider to adjust for size, i guess that i can file it down to like a 30t ring height. In that case, there should be contact between the slider and the 104mm tabs, or no?

    Since I'll be using a clutch rear mech, can I get away with just a top guide (XCX, for example). Using either the iscg05, or the S3 version (even tough the S3 you cant lower it that much... unless i put the slider bolt in the same place as the forward mounting bolt? But then i might not have acess to the rear one... Or just mount the slider directly in the S3 front hole of the frame with some spacer? I might need something to prevent the slider from rotating though... Still dont know if I'll have interference with the 104bcd tabs

    Other idea was to get a blackspire stinger BB mount, and a e13 slider, and then drill the stinger in the exact place to mount the slider

    DMR seems to sell a chain guide that works down to 28t, dunno if it works with my setup, since I have the 64/104 spider which may cause inteference... (read MRP below)
    MRP micro doesnt work (they say only for spiderless rings, so...)
    There is also the hope chain guide, which seems to go quite low for a iscg 05


    What seems to be the safest bet for now, is to get a e13 SRS slider/superstar plasma for bash, a granny god and then mount it with a blackspire stinger bb mount with custom drilling.

    Any other hack ideas?
    Last edited by G_g; 12-04-2012 at 09:51 AM.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Some people seem to use E13LG1+ with sucess, what size ring is being used? Since stock they are for 32t rings min, and there isn't much material left in the groove where you move the slider to adjust for size, i guess that i can file it down to like a 30t ring height. In that case, there should be contact between the slider and the 104mm tabs, or no?
    I'm running the E13 LS1+ (basically the cheaper version of the LG1+), 32-36t range, with a 30t ring, it works great.

    If I was building from scratch, I would probably just do the top guide and a clutch derailleur. Lighter and simpler...

  18. #218
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    I am mostly set on just the top guide.
    The main thing is that I am using a 28t, with a spider.

    The mrp bling ring and guide are possible, but it is expensive

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    I am mostly set on just the top guide.
    The main thing is that I am using a 28t, with a spider.
    I'll be using a 28t (64bcd), and I still have the 104 tabs, and dont feel like chopping them off.
    The mrp bling ring and guide are possible, but it is expensive
    Something to consider... if you're running a single ring on your granny gear tabs, you'll probably need to move your cranks out to get a workable chainline and chainstay yoke clearance.. which may create other issues. Personally... I'd look for another way to do it.

    PS- if you are looking or a crankset- the E13/Hive cranks I've been running since June are BY FAR the best cranks/BB I have used. Super stiff, totally silent and simple to work on. The only bummer- since the bearings are outboard/oversize, the BB needs to be removed if you want to pull your BB pivot on the KS link- no big deal. Bonus the E13 cranks & BB come with all tools required.

  20. #220
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    Well, considering I have a Sram carbon crank, I won't change that. I have a X0 2x10 with the 64-104 bcd spider. (24-38 rings, albeit I will only use a 28t in the granny). According to page 15 of this manual:
    Truvativ X0 10-Speed Crankset | SRAM
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Z6...76_-_rev_b.pdf

    I will have a 42mm chainline in the granny. Considering the optimal chainline for our 9spd and 10spd cassettes is 44.5mm, I am way better than the usual 50-51mm chainlines.
    I could use an extra spacer on drive side, getting 44.5mm chainline, which will be bang on, but that might leave less axle on the other side... Or I may face the granny tabs a bit. To be honest, I want to sell this spider since aftermarket it is pretty expensive. If I can sell it, I'd buy a MRP bling ring and be done with the chainline.

    Chainguide is still a problem though... Word is works-components is working on it, and making a guide: Works Components - Angle Headsets to fit Most Frame Types & CNC Bicycle Components Proudly Made in the UK
    Timeline Photos | Facebook

    I am waiting on DMR and Hope to reply my questions about the compatibility of their guides with 28t (didn't mention the chainline, just getting low enough for a 28t and not hitting the 104 tabs isn't bad)

    There is also pauls Paul Component Engineering - Chain Keeper BB but i guess it hits the frame, see this pic: http://www.paulcomp.com/images/ckbbd2full.png To have it on the granny, it would definitively hit the frame.

    If the DMR or hope say it works, good. If not, custom home-made shenanigans it is

  21. #221
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    Those cranks have the removable spider, right? MRP Bling ring or HBC ring should work for you in that case. Getting either one in a timely fashion might be an issue though.

  22. #222
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    They do have. I have written before that the MRP bling ring works, but that fcker is expensive, and it is a wear part. I would much better replace a 10$ alivio chainring than a 60$++ bling ring. At least I can sell the spider, but the rings are still expensive... And I would be stuck to MRP and HBC rings (hbc needs months of waiting...). I try to avoid getting on brand specific stuff, like the flexibility of common options (i dont buy pre-built wheels, like mavic, for example)

    If I can't get the guide to work or the chainline is too inboard, I will consider shelling out for the bling ring, but trying to avoid that.

  23. #223
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    True. Well, if you get stuck and like blue, PM me. I could cut that wait time.

  24. #224
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    I'm curious G_g, why not just use the 24/38 rings the crank comes with, an FD and a bash on the ISG tabs? I run those exact size rings and find they work excellent, give good range of gearing and having that 24t makes life a whole lot easier when you're done for and trying to climb your way home
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  25. #225
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    I have a Canfield hub that allows me to use a 9-36 cassette. No more front derailleurs for me.

    On the Rune, the 32t ring was good for everything, so with 28t 9-36 i get even more range. With the shadow+ rear derailleur, I have lower tension, just need to get a working 28t upper guide, which seems to be problematic.

    Also, HBC rings seem to throw the chainline way off to the outside.

    As far as the guide, kinda settled. I'll use a metal plate to do the back (probably from a blackspire stinger), most likely BB mount, because I can rotate those. I think I have parts of an old truvativ boxguide which should work. Then I just need to either create a hole (or keyway) for the slider part: Superstar Components - High Spec Parts For Peanuts or similar from e13, dmr, mrp or whatever brand.

    Heck, I can even use the boxguide, there is enough metal there to take the keyways almost to near the BB. That should work. Unless all the parts in the back interfere with the frame... Guess it will run in the same trouble has the Pauls... But rotating the lower to the upright position or getting a Stinget BB mount will definitively make the type of backplate I need.

    If I get the confirmation that neither the DMR works from stock, I'll go with the DIY guide, the hope doesn't have a full cage, requiring a bash, and seems it is only down to 32t (pending confirmation)

    Off-topic: I also enjoy this "solve my problem kind of thing". Wish I had a mill and a lathe, and where to buy raw materials (aluminium plates in this case, and some alu blocks). Looking at a mini mill base, and I have the vertical drill, so I guess I could make a "el cheapo" mill, but still dunno where to source aluminium or plastic blocks. Send PM if you have any ideas about this mill thing.
    I'll probably get this base: Micro compound table KT 70 Proxxon: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

  26. #226
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    FDs have never given me trouble, actually I find they work well as chain retention devices and having 2 rings to me is much more useful than dropping a few ounces and losing what to some is clutter. Also I run a Trials/SS specific hub, so I only fit 6 or 7 cogs on there, so I go for the bigger cogs an MTB uses more frequently on the trail - made the move about 4 years ago to a dishless rear wheel using an SS/Trials hub and now I won't go back.Since I installed the FD on my Prime I haven't had one dropped chain, even going over the roughest terrain and I can only imagine what it would be like using one of the new clutch type derailleurs along with an FD. Another plus of having the 2 rings for me since I don't use a chain tension is when going down rough stuff at speed, being able to throw it on the bigger ring helps reduce chain slap and noise.

    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    I have a Canfield hub that allows me to use a 9-36 cassette. No more front derailleurs for me.

    On the Rune, the 32t ring was good for everything, so with 28t 9-36 i get even more range. With the shadow+ rear derailleur, I have lower tension, just need to get a working 28t upper guide, which seems to be problematic.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  27. #227
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    DMR doesn't work the chainring in the granny, due to chainline. It works with the hbc ring if spacers are used to bring the guide outboard.

    When using a full cassete, the granny gives the best chainline amongst what are the common positions (ok, somewhere between the granny and middle ring of a 3x set-up would be optimal). Guess if I want to use this 42.5mm chainline, I'll need to make my own guide

    EDIT: apparently, 44mm chainline on the granny, at least in the 2012 version of the cranks. See page 18 http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/3W...ifications.pdf
    I'll have to measure my chainline when I get it (or at least when I go home for christmas, Rune should provide a good test base for chainline and stuff
    Last edited by G_g; 12-05-2012 at 12:48 PM.

  28. #228
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    First black one I've seen online fully built. Looks great!


    konahonzo

  29. #229
    G_g
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    Glad they don't make small frames, it would look so awkward. At 5"11 I wanted to fit a large, they look a lot more proportional.
    Nice bike btw.

  30. #230
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    Yeah, but their Medium is about the size of most small or just a tad bigger. Smart move IMHO spreading the sizes out a bit more and only needing to make 3 sizes, too many stem/bar choices these days to not be able to dial in the fit. This reduces their overhead and end cost to consumers, which I think is a good thing, also don't think Keith believed he could make anything smaller without making too many compromises to make it work.
    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Glad they don't make small frames, it would look so awkward. At 5"11 I wanted to fit a large, they look a lot more proportional.
    Nice bike btw.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  31. #231
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    Argg you guys got me second guessing my size choice :O I've gone for a medium and i stand around 5'11" currently riding a Medium Nomad and I had a medium Rune before that. :S the frame is sitting on a dock waiting to be shipped from last i heard....

  32. #232
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    I have a Large Rune and just asked the Banshee dealer around here to change my order from Medium to Large. 35mm stem should fix the geometry

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by phat-ant View Post
    Argg you guys got me second guessing my size choice :O I've gone for a medium and i stand around 5'11" currently riding a Medium Nomad and I had a medium Rune before that. :S the frame is sitting on a dock waiting to be shipped from last i heard....
    Don't sweat it, I'm 6'0" on a medium with a 70mm stem, very comfortable. Depending on seat post choice though you could out near minimum insertion. I believe that a large would have also been fine, I'd have probably even used the same stem, just been a tad more stretched out.

  34. #234
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    Cheers Optimus, I do prefer a more relaxed kinda of possition, so fingers crossed it will be ok. I have a 420mm reverb to stick in it, so with a bit of luck that should fit ok.

    G_g, getting the frame direct as there is no dealer for my country so its a bit more of a gamble

    fingers crossed huh hehe, will post up the build when it arrives, which I hope wont be too much longer! but I dont think its left the factory yet. Doh.

    Still waiting on an XX1 crank to arrive too, but just going to use that with a top guide and a 10speed 11-36 out back will let you know how that goes

    loving the look of that black Prime, would be nice to see some yellow ones out there too!

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by phat-ant View Post
    Argg you guys got me second guessing my size choice :O I've gone for a medium and i stand around 5'11" currently riding a Medium Nomad and I had a medium Rune before that. :S ....
    Medium Prime definitely fits "larger" than a med. Nomad or v1 Rune, so you should be good.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    First black one I've seen online fully built. Looks great!


    Oh Dear...I wish I hadn't seen this!


  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by jncarpenter View Post
    Oh Dear...I wish I hadn't seen this!
    You know what they say, once you go black, you might end up with a raw frame too.
    konahonzo

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by phat-ant View Post
    Argg you guys got me second guessing my size choice :O I've gone for a medium and i stand around 5'11" currently riding a Medium Nomad and I had a medium Rune before that. :S the frame is sitting on a dock waiting to be shipped from last i heard....
    5'11" here as well, and I went with a med. w/ 800mm bars & 420mm reverb. Best fitting FS for me to date. Particularly with the reverb...since I have been riding for years with a thomson post ~1" lower than xc-ideal. With the reverb I can have the best of both worlds, and with the slack STA the cockpit grows alot more than a typical straight ST as you raise the saddle.


  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    You know what they saw, once you go black, you might end up with a raw frame too.
    Precisely why God created powder-coat!


  40. #240
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    @jncarpenter and phat-ant, whats your inseam?

    hopefully there will be some more pics from the black one with good cam/light

  41. #241
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    Got my tracking number, whee.

    Banshee branded boxes for X-mas present, i hope.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
    @jncarpenter and phat-ant, whats your inseam?

    hopefully there will be some more pics from the black one with good cam/light
    I wear 30-32" inseam pants, depending on the brand.


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    ok thx.

    im still wondering myself if M was the right choice and not a L.

    Because when i see the pic from the black one above most ppl have longer legs then me (~ 30") and can use a longer seatpost and therefore the reach gets virtually longer.
    if i use the same size i have to get a longer stem to correct this or a larger frame, right?

    but longer stem = less handling.
    larger frame = shorter stem = better handling. BUT lager frame also means a longer seattube -> not so good for dh with my short legs :/?

  44. #244
    G_g
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mondraker
    Buenos días,

    Las potencias estarán disponibles próximamente en los puntos de venta Mondraker.

    Atentamente.



    infoweb@mondraker.com

    www.mondraker.com
    So, according to Mondraker, the 10mm stems will be available soon. I'll start with a 40mm stem (truvativ whatever) and then see how it rides. It is nice for mondraker to make the stem available aftermarket. Guess I'll need to use a flat or very low-rise bar with it

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
    ok thx.

    im still wondering myself if M was the right choice and not a L.
    but longer stem = less handling.
    larger frame = shorter stem = better handling.
    It's all about the wheelbase.
    The top tube on the prime is long enough, you don't have to size up so you can run a short stem. If you're possibly in between sizes, the smaller frame option will have a shorter wheelbase, lower standover, will corner faster regardless of stem length, and be more managable in the air. If you are under 5'-11"/ 180cm I would definitely go medium.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
    ok thx.

    im still wondering myself if M was the right choice and not a L.

    Because when i see the pic from the black one above most ppl have longer legs then me (~ 30") and can use a longer seatpost and therefore the reach gets virtually longer.
    if i use the same size i have to get a longer stem to correct this or a larger frame, right?

    but longer stem = less handling.
    larger frame = shorter stem = better handling. BUT lager frame also means a longer seattube -> not so good for dh with my short legs :/?
    I went round and round myself before pulling the trigger. If it helps, I have been riding Large Turners for the last decade...the Prime is the best fit I have had outside of a custom frame. I am glad I rolled the dice and went with the Med.


  47. #247
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    Then guess I am better with the large. My inseam and my arm length, as well as my shoulder width are big for my height. The L rune feels good with a 50 mm stem, but perfect with a 60mm stem. So I guess the large prime will go nicely with a small stem. I used the 385mm KS i950 at max extension and I'm planning on keeping the seatpost

  48. #248
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    My frame is here, anyone got idea what ZS cups i need for headset?

    ZS44/28.6 and ZS 56/40 when i tried to measure, am i correct?

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by sakucee View Post
    My frame is here, anyone got idea what ZS cups i need for headset?

    ZS44/28.6 and ZS 56/40 when i tried to measure, am i correct?
    Banshee Prime: All Mountain -> geometry

    44|56 (1.125" zero stack top, 1.5" zero stack bottom)
    should be right if taper

  50. #250
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    Yeah, at the top there is 'measured with traditional headset' threw me off

  51. #251
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    All done, winterized version with ISP's:


  52. #252
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    Sakucee:

    seems you removed the lower part of the chain guide, how is that working?
    Also, how does the DHX-Air feel?

    Anyone tried the prime with a coil shock?

  53. #253
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    Yeah, looks awesome Sakucee!
    What kind of dropper post is that?

    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Anyone tried the prime with a coil shock?
    I ran the elka coil off my v1 Rune on my prime for a while, with a lighter spring to match the lower leverage ratio. Definitely a learning experience- the elka was valved for the higher leverage & firmer spring ratio of the Rune, so on the prime it felt choked up on compression and slow on rebound, even with the adjustments backed out. A stock light tune RP23 felt better everywhere. And a cheap used RP23 sent to Push was another leap in quality feel and a great value compared to say, a CCDB air.

    So.... custom tuning ain't just marketing IMO!

  54. #254
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    I have a DHX-3 in a parts bin that I'll get tuned eventually. I bought it a year or so ago specifically for a tuning platform, but I never caught one of Push's MX-Tune windows. In the meantime, I've been pretty pleased with X-Fusion's Vector HLR Air.

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by G_g View Post
    Sakucee:

    seems you removed the lower part of the chain guide, how is that working?
    Also, how does the DHX-Air feel?

    Anyone tried the prime with a coil shock?
    Haven't dropped a chain yet, there is way more slap since tension is lower (i don't have shadow+), some noise on lightest gears, not too bad.

    The DHX-A was custom tuned, but it needs a rework most likely, too soft when standing up and pedalling, seated it was ok with the lever closed, but the pro-pedal was also reworked so it is nowhere stock either.

    That being said it was sub zero and weather was... challenging and i didn't check BV pressures which might fix it, need to test again tomorrow, but i have re-work guarantee from the lbs, he will retune it so i'm happy with it, not worried.

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Yeah, looks awesome Sakucee!
    What kind of dropper post is that?



    I ran the elka coil off my v1 Rune on my prime for a while, with a lighter spring to match the lower leverage ratio. Definitely a learning experience- the elka was valved for the higher leverage & firmer spring ratio of the Rune, so on the prime it felt choked up on compression and slow on rebound, even with the adjustments backed out. A stock light tune RP23 felt better everywhere. And a cheap used RP23 sent to Push was another leap in quality feel and a great value compared to say, a CCDB air.

    So.... custom tuning ain't just marketing IMO!
    ICE Lift v8, cheap as peanuts!

    Review on Dirt

  57. #257
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    Anyone has a decent quality pic of the old banshee logo? (the one with the gargoyle-ish thing)

    Jay did a dig in his stuff and couldn't find any. The guy I know who has a scream got it repainted a few years back and doesnt have a good pic of it.

    Either this, or where can I find a headtube badge for the prime?


  58. #258
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    Only need frame now (and to make the chain guide backplate), all other parts are ready

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by sakucee View Post
    ICE Lift v8, cheap as peanuts!

    Review on Dirt
    The new one with 110mm:

    FORCA SPS400 Vario Sattelstütze Fernbedienung Höhenverstellbar 31.6 110mm 2013 | eBay

    FORCA SPORTS Scooter

  60. #260
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    Has somebody received a Production Prime XL Frame already?

  61. #261
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    Picked up my XX1 set from lbs, off to hunt XD freewheels now!

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    sorry, forgot the question, was stupid
    Last edited by pinkey; 12-20-2012 at 08:22 AM. Reason: was bs

  63. #263
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    New PR for this drop. 1st run on my 150mm wheel, LG1+ hub with a WTB i23.

    <iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GuvwbDg02jE?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  64. #264
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1356623452.401245.jpg

    If only I had time.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356623452.401245.jpg 
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ID:	748327

    If only I had time.
    Nice Enel . Get that thing built so we can have a Banshee day in the Dells. Alot of Primes and V2s are showing up in AZ. Waiting for some parts for mine and should be built by tuesday? FYI, check and make sure you have the reducer bushings for that DBair. My V2 came with only mount bolts and I had to get the reducer bushings from cane creek. Awesome.
    SHITBIRD

  66. #266
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    You guys are going to like them, guaranteed.

    I wanted to try the CTD.

    My DBair will be here Friday.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by helimech View Post
    Nice Enel . Get that thing built so we can have a Banshee day in the Dells. Alot of Primes and V2s are showing up in AZ. Waiting for some parts for mine and should be built by tuesday? FYI, check and make sure you have the reducer bushings for that DBair. My V2 came with only mount bolts and I had to get the reducer bushings from cane creek. Awesome.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1356629512.721994.jpg

    Are these the reducer thingies?
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  68. #268
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    Is It worth upgrading from the ctd to the db air?

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Are these the reducer thingies?
    Yep, lucky u. I got my CCDBa for my nad, so had to get the reducers for the V2. Its should be nice, just like Optimus said!
    SHITBIRD

  70. #270
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    Okay, going over the parts in the garage box, it seems the only thing I need to buy is a new front derailleur.

    I can't say as I totally understand the instructions on Banshee's website, and there are so many options, I want to order the correct part.

    Will any Shimano Direct mount work?

    I am thinking of this:

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M786 XT Direct Mount Front Derailleur - 10 Speed

    The Banshee site says to use an E type with the BB plate removed, but isn't that essentially just a direct mount derailleur. I am not opposed to SRAM if you have a link to the correct derailleur.

    Anyway, help a guy out, I don't want to dig all through the thread.

    Also, the last time I derailleur shopped, ten speed didn't exist. I can use these ten speed fronts for a 9 speed system I assume??
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  71. #271
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    I used an S3, bottom pull SRAM. Absolutely zero problems.

  72. #272
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    I just went out an checked the box, it is an X9, but for a 3x10. I just dialed the hi down to keep the chain off my bash guard.

  73. #273
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    Yes you can use a 9-spd f. der on 10-speed.
    I test fit a bunch of f. der's on my proto before building it up, the SRAM's fit best- mainly because their 2x specific derailuers have a shorter cage, so less chance of interference with the chainstay as the suspension compresses. SRAM cable routing worked better too.

    All that may have changed now that we have a gazillion models and standards to select from!

    The SRAM that fit well was an S3. The exact model depends on what chainring sizes you'll be running. Genius!
    Here's some helpful info on selecting the right part number.

  74. #274
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    150 and 2x

    Hey there Primeates,

    I have been considering a 29er recently and from what I can see, the Prime is on the short list. The option to run a wide flange rear hub for lateral wheel strength is one of the reasons I am interested in the Prime. (graphics could be toned down a bit though, how about black graphics on black ano?)

    Does anyone know if a 150 rear hub will work properly with a 2x/bash ring (stock 3 ring) crank? I am concerned the chainline would not work well.

    I was also wondering if there will be 157x12 dropouts with slots available in the future? I really like the 142x12 on my Chilcotin. Just drop the wheel in to the stops and insert the axle.

    Thanks,
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  75. #275
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    What chainrings are you planning on running, 2X or #X? Figure 2X, but need to ask. I used the SRAM XO 10spd, 2X FD on my Prime and it works fantastic, shifts are crisp and smooth and I'm using a 2X 9spd setup running 24/38 rings.

    That Shimano FD you linked to is the wrong type, you need a BOTTOM mount, BOTTOM pull type, hence the E-type reference. Jenson has some OE XTs on sale now Shimano XT M770-10 Oe Front Derailleur > Components > Drivetrain > Front Derailleurs | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    Okay, going over the parts in the garage box, it seems the only thing I need to buy is a new front derailleur.

    I can't say as I totally understand the instructions on Banshee's website, and there are so many options, I want to order the correct part.

    Will any Shimano Direct mount work?

    I am thinking of this:

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano FD-M786 XT Direct Mount Front Derailleur - 10 Speed

    The Banshee site says to use an E type with the BB plate removed, but isn't that essentially just a direct mount derailleur. I am not opposed to SRAM if you have a link to the correct derailleur.

    Anyway, help a guy out, I don't want to dig all through the thread.

    Also, the last time I derailleur shopped, ten speed didn't exist. I can use these ten speed fronts for a 9 speed system I assume??
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    Does anyone know if a 150 rear hub will work properly with a 2x/bash ring (stock 3 ring) crank? I am concerned the chainline would not work well.
    I'm using a 3x10 Shimano XT crank, 2+ bash, XT 10 speed cassette on an e*thirteen LG1+ 150mm hub, chainline is perfect on 24fx28r.

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    I was also wondering if there will be 157x12 dropouts with slots available in the future? I really like the 142x12 on my Chilcotin. Just drop the wheel in to the stops and insert the axle.
    I don't know if there are plans for 157x12, but the 142x12 dropouts for the Prime don't have any stops. Prime/Rune Dropouts/Hangers

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    What chainrings are you planning on running, 2X or #X? Figure 2X, but need to ask. I used the SRAM XO 10spd, 2X FD on my Prime and it works fantastic, shifts are crisp and smooth and I'm using a 2X 9spd setup running 24/38 rings.

    That Shimano FD you linked to is the wrong type, you need a BOTTOM mount, BOTTOM pull type, hence the E-type reference. Jenson has some OE XTs on sale now Shimano XT M770-10 Oe Front Derailleur > Components > Drivetrain > Front Derailleurs | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    Thanks for the help I just ordered the Jenson XT derailleur because I am a tightwad, and I am pretty happy with my direct mount Shimano on the Specialized.

    Initial set up will be SLX cranks with standard 22/32 rings. I will probably end up running pretty small chainrings eventually, in the 20/29 range. 2X set up with bash. I hope everything plays well with the 150 rear.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Yes you can use a 9-spd f. der on 10-speed.
    I test fit a bunch of f. der's on my proto before building it up, the SRAM's fit best- mainly because their 2x specific derailuers have a shorter cage, so less chance of interference with the chainstay as the suspension compresses. SRAM cable routing worked better too.

    All that may have changed now that we have a gazillion models and standards to select from!

    The SRAM that fit well was an S3. The exact model depends on what chainring sizes you'll be running. Genius!
    Here's some helpful info on selecting the right part number.
    Ahh, but can you use a 10 speed derailleur on a 9 speed system They sound pretty interchangeable. Thank for the info and PDF.

    I have to say this is a very handsome bike. On looks alone it is winning me over.

    Last night I got the dropouts (slack), CCDBa, King Inset installed and weighed it including the seatclamp and King Baseplate it was 9.1lbs. That sounds pretty porky to me, but I actually don't know what any of my suspension frames weighed all kitted out. I thought they were in the 7.5 lb range.

    Anyway, got the fork, dropper post, bars and brakes installed but not adjusted, rotors and tires on wheels. I am just waiting for a drivetrain.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    I have to say this is a very handsome bike. On looks alone it is winning me over.

    Anyway, got the fork, dropper post, bars and brakes installed but not adjusted, rotors and tires on wheels. I am just waiting for a drivetrain.
    Very cool!

    On the weight- figure that the CCDBA adds .6lbs over a fox... and you got another .5 with the headset...without those you'd be at 8lbs, which is over a pound lighter than my med. proto frame with fox

    I know you do a lot of low-speed tech, curious to hear what you think. The prime really comes on at higher speeds, I am sure you have some of that around too. Keep us posted!

  81. #281
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1356730638.353206.jpg

    So sad. Will have to wait a week for parts.

    Rear tire clearance is impressive.

    I have not yet decommissioned the Stumpy so I hope to get some back to back impressions.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  82. #282
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    Enel, just shove some broom handle through the BB, you can still DH on it.

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    I know you do a lot of low-speed tech, curious to hear what you think. The prime really comes on at higher speeds, I am sure you have some of that around too. Keep us posted!
    I'll be curious as well. Enel's bike review/reports are usually pretty good reading. I've always guessed the Lunchbox would be hard to beat for a rock-crawling rig, so it'll be interesting to hear your thoughts on the comparison.

    For me, I expected to sacrifice some slow-speed ability with the Prime, since it's lower, longer and slacker (at least in front) than what I was coming from. I was a little shocked to find that I cleaned a few obstacles and climbs for the first time with it. I reckon a big part of the reason is the way the Prime has me more upright and centered.

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    Hey there Primeates,

    I have been considering a 29er recently and from what I can see, the Prime is on the short list. The option to run a wide flange rear hub for lateral wheel strength is one of the reasons I am interested in the Prime. (graphics could be toned down a bit though, how about black graphics on black ano?)

    Does anyone know if a 150 rear hub will work properly with a 2x/bash ring (stock 3 ring) crank? I am concerned the chainline would not work well.

    I was also wondering if there will be 157x12 dropouts with slots available in the future? I really like the 142x12 on my Chilcotin. Just drop the wheel in to the stops and insert the axle.

    Thanks,
    I ran a 150mm hub with the 2x/bash ring you've described and there was no chainline issues with my Prime proto.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    I'll be curious as well. Enel's bike review/reports are usually pretty good reading. I've always guessed the Lunchbox would be hard to beat for a rock-crawling rig, so it'll be interesting to hear your thoughts on the comparison.

    For me, I expected to sacrifice some slow-speed ability with the Prime, since it's lower, longer and slacker (at least in front) than what I was coming from. I was a little shocked to find that I cleaned a few obstacles and climbs for the first time with it. I reckon a big part of the reason is the way the Prime has me more upright and centered.
    I agree on all points. Also, the Prime is not mushy, or plush. You can easily use all of your travel in the right situation, but it's got a nice platform for climbing, especially tech climbing. I like the KS link.

  86. #286
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    I'm not a high speed guy, I like my slow, tech and the Prime really excels in that to me, despite the XL having a 48" WB. My techy stuff isn't like Enel's though, sure wish we had some like that.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm not a high speed guy, I like my slow, tech and the Prime really excels in that to me, despite the XL having a 48" WB. My techy stuff isn't like Enel's though, sure wish we had some like that.
    Pulled my Paradox back out for a couple of less chunky, heavy climbing rides, it amazes me how much better of a climber the Prime is. Between the longer wheelbase and the firm yet giving rear suspension, the rear wheel really stays planted. Although the front is light when climbing, you really have to want to lift it, otherwise it stays planted too. My riding is not quite like Enel's, but I've put mine through plenty of low speed chunky climbs, and it excels. Again, for downhill, hang on because this bike eats up all kinds of nasty trail features, it's a very solid and heavy duty feeling frame.

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    I'm using a 3x10 Shimano XT crank, 2+ bash, XT 10 speed cassette on an e*thirteen LG1+ 150mm hub, chainline is perfect on 24fx28r.
    Sweet! Thanks for the info.

    I don't want to get off topic, but could you post impressions on the e*thirteen hubs when you get some time on them? Not much info out there ..

    Cheers.
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    Sweet! Thanks for the info.

    I don't want to get off topic, but could you post impressions on the e*thirteen hubs when you get some time on them? Not much info out there ..

    Cheers.
    Not off topic at all. They are very nicely manufactured, they roll very smooth with just a tiny bit of drag, but nothing to be concerned with. I laced them to WTB Frequency i23's, with DT Swiss Comp 1.8 double butted spokes. I've got maybe 75 miles on the front, only 25 on the rear. The engagement is very good, very solid, 6 degrees. So far they are a very stiff build, coupled to this stiff frame and an F34, this bike feels rock solid. Now I can really feel when the tires give a little. I can tell you that going from a 135mm DT 240s/Flow combo to this 150mm LG1+ made a huge difference in the feeling on the rear of this bike. The hub flanges are huge on the LG1+, therefore shorter spokes and at a sharper angle, meaning more strength. Whether you go 150 or 135, this hub will still make for a very strong build. As of right now, I have absolutely no issues with these hubs.

  90. #290
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    Went down to ride local spot which has been dug open from snow and with few small jumps, DHX-A as rear shock.

    In short: stoked, for reals.

    The bike jumped well, really easy to time jumps with it, ate up chatter well, had tons of grip in icy chute, cornered really well and it was just plain fun to ride narrow twisty ice-chute down.

    Pedaling sucked with shock open on steep uphills, too active, need to re-tune the shock, can be 'fixed' with pro-pedal on, still, going to have it re-shimmed, downhill it worked really well, predictable, grip was good, smooth on landings, predictable when jumping.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by sakucee View Post
    In short: stoked, for reals.
    .
    Lets hear your thoughts on proto vs. production!

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Lets hear your thoughts on proto vs. production!
    Front triangle is shorter vs proto, and headtube is shorter.. i can get handlebars and riding position dialed in very well now, frame is lighter, scale ran out of batteries just as i was building up so can't tell exact #, but you can feel it when lifting the bike around.

    I have way less spacers under the handlebars at the moment and riding position feels very good indeed with 2 rides out, in 2 weeks i'll fly to Tenerife where i was at with the proto so i'll get good comparison from there.

    Not gonna touch on pedaling characteristics since my shocks are so far off from stock setups so it would be pointless really.

  93. #293
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    Question for Enel, or anyone with the DBair. Do the sleeves have a minimal press fit into the shock eyes, or is it a slip fit? I'm wondering because I just pulled my CTD off in preparation off my DBair getting here tomorrow, and I noticed that the Fox shock eye is larger than 1/2" and it has a plastic bushing in it with 1/2" id. Even though there is minimal rotation of the shock eyes with this suspension design, there still has to be free movement. If the Cane Creek hardware is pressed in, then when everything is tightened, there won't be any movement. Unless I'm missing something.

  94. #294
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    All shocks have bushings in them, otherwise bolts/pins would eat away the shock body, also CCDBA uses custom bushings so you cannot use fox/marz/rockshox bushings on them and vice versa.

  95. #295
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    Keith, what size chainring is the Prime optimized for? 32 or 30t? Wondering should i order 30t for my XX1..

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by sakucee View Post
    All shocks have bushings in them, otherwise bolts/pins would eat away the shock body, also CCDBA uses custom bushings so you cannot use fox/marz/rockshox bushings on them and vice versa.
    Forgot about the bushing, thanks.

  97. #297
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    Anyone running a 120mm fork on thier prime, hows it ride?

  98. #298
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    No one's running a 120mm fork on their Prime, why would they? Prime is designed around a 140mm fork, BB height is perfect with it, as is the HA, why would anyone purposely lower the BB and steepen the HA? I had intentions to try a 120mm fork on mine, but once I got it I quickly realised what a silly exercise it would be. If you want a bike with less travel or steeper angles, maybe the Prime isn't for you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    Anyone running a 120mm fork on thier prime, hows it ride?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    Anyone running a 120mm fork on thier prime, hows it ride?
    I'd hazard a guess, a lot of pedal strikes unless runngin in steep chips/short cranks..

    But question remains, why would you? You can adjust geo from the bike itself, weight difference between 34's and 32's isnt that great, either.

  100. #300
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    Cause thats all i got:-) i come from a niner rip9 which has a steep hta compared to the prime. I havent checked the rip bb height comparatively though. If i buy a prime ill be trying the 120. Hopefully such blasphemy wont bring the end of the world upon us.

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