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Production Prime Photo/Build thread

271K views 2K replies 130 participants last post by  Vegard 
#1 ·
Here's mine:thumbsup: Apologies in advance for the not so good pictures. My wife decided to let my camera go on an African safari with my mother-in-law without letting me know so all I had was my iPhone and a dark garage:madman:

Frame: Raw medium
Fork: Fox34 Float set at 140mm
Crankset: XO with 28t spiderless MRP BlingRing and RaceFace boots
Chainguide: E13 LG1+ modified to fit 28t ring
Bottom Bracket: Hope ceramic
Pedals: Spank Spike
Seatpost: KS LEV
Seat: brown Chromag Trailmaster
Bars: ENVE AM
Grips: brown ODI Rogue with blue ODI lock ons
Stem: Chromag Ranger
Headset: CaneCreek 40 Series
Brakes: XTR Trail with Hope Saw rotors(7" F/6" R)
Shifter: X9
Derailleur: short cage X9 with KCNC sealed bearing jocky wheels
Cassette: Sram 1070 12-36
F Hub: American Classic 15mm
R Hub: DT 240s with 36t upgrade and Hadley thru bolt
Spokes: Sapim CXRay
Rims: LightBicycle carbon AM with Bontrager Rhythm rimstrips and Stan's valves
Tires: Specialized Ground Control 2.3
Chain: KMC X10SL
Seatpost Clamp: Salsa LipLock

Weight = 29.5 pounds:thumbsup:

I still have lots of adjusting and trimming to do and I didn't get to ride her:mad: Can't wait to get her out in the woods and see what all the hype is about!

FYI for all of those who helped decide on the Medium frame... THANKS! I'm long and lanky but the Medium with the 70mm stem and post just about all the way out felt REALLY good on the neighborhood loop:thumbsup: I can already tell I won't be too cramped and there's still room for adjustment. I'm also strongly considering going to wider bars but I figured I'd ride her a few times before I drop the coin.

Without further delay...








 
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#1,075 ·
Curious what some of the lighter Prime builds are coming in at?

I have always avoided weighing my bikes, but my friend had a scale handy last week. My Prime came in at 31.8lbs/14.43kg, which I thought was pretty respectable given my build (carbon rims, 2.35s, dropper post, chainguide, DH cranks & bars). Looks like I could knock ~1lb/500g off without too much cost or compromise.
 
#1,078 ·
right now I'm riding a Transition Trans Am 29 with a 2011 120mm Reba, it weighs 29.8 lbs.

I'll be putting all of the parts onto my Banshee Prime, except for swapping the Reba for an X-fusion Trace. I'm hoping to be around 30lbs, but I'm thinking it may be over 31 with the following parts:

Banshee Prime XL
CC-DBair CS
X-Fusion Trace Tapered
Cane Creek 40 hs
Cheap-o 70mm stem (probably getting a spank spike 50mm)
Easton Haven 711mm carbon bars (want to get 785mm bars though)
Ergon GA1 Leichtbau grips (ergon team green)
Rock Shox Reverb 125mm seatpost
Crank Brothers Iodine 11 Saddle (Made by Fizik)
SRAM carbon crankset
Race Face N/W 30t
XT Trail Pedals
SRAM hollow pin 9sp chain
XT 11-34 9sp cassette
XTR 9 sp long cage derailleur
Hope Evo2 pro hubs 12x142 rear (15mm front)
Stans Flow Ex Rims, Brass nipples, Butted spokes
Ardent EXO 2.4 f & Rear
Avid Elixir CR 2011 brakes, 180mm rotors

Hopefully I can upgrade to XT clutch 10 speed and xt trail brakes with ice-tech rotors, not really sure if there are any places that I could afford-ably lose any weight without sacrificing durability.
 
#1,080 ·
I've got a Pike coming to replace my Fox float 34, building up a new wheelset with wide 35mm carbon rims and lighter hubs and going to try tubeless while I'm at it. The 1 x 10 or 11 doesn't quite cut it in my area, long singletrack climbs (I'd need to run a 28 up front - which some friends have done - which results in being under geared at the top end for me personally). Also going to a slightly lighter dropper post. Should add up to a bit over a pound.
I might be interested in a carbon crankset if anyone makes them in 180mm (although I would probably still go with XTR for the strength), haven't run 175's in 20 years on my main bikes, only exceptions are my fat bike and my dh.
 
#1,082 ·
Yeah, the changes in theory add up to almost 1 1/2 lbs, but I like to hedge my bets.
I've ridden my bikes all over the world, the longer cranks are rarely an issue. One big key to success is a fast engagement hub if you so encounter super rocky sections you can ratchet through, one of several reasons I'm ditching my Hopes (although the new 40 engagement point versions would help - but I havent been too stoked on the durability of the EVO's). The benefits for taller riders are worth it, I find they allow you to take advantage of the leverage of longer legs and put your knees in a better position over the pedals to reduce strain. They also let you slightly lower your center of gravity when cornering.
 
#1,090 ·
, one of several reasons I'm ditching my Hopes (although the new 40 engagement point versions would help - but I havent been too stoked on the durability of the EVO's)
I've had my own issues. I've blown my rear EVO up 4x so far, between bearing failure and two broken freehub bodies. The last one was an alloy loaner from my LBS. I'll replace it with a Hadley this winter.

My (pre-production) Prime is great for slow climbs followed by long downhills, but for quicker up/down cycles or more rolling trails, I really would like to have a lighter bike. I haven't weighed mine, either. Obviously I could lose nearly 1.5 lbs just by moving to the production version, but the real answer is a more 'trail' bike. Maybe the Phantom down the road.
 
#1,083 ·
36 lbs, 4 1/2 lbs of that being Maxxis tires.

What rims Martin?? Every time that I pedal mine up anything more than a short uphill, I think about putting it on a diet. I'm not overly concerned about weight, but mine is a bit heavy. Love it going down through the chunk though. Carbon rims kind of scare me, but I can't say as I've ever heard of anybody busting one. I've got a buddy though that busts about 2 carbon frames a year.
 
#1,084 ·
There are a few 35mm versions starting to show up. Derby are looking pretty nice, but a couple of the direct Chinese companies also have them in the works. Currently I'm leaning towards the Light Bicycle versions because they are cheap enough to experiment with. I know some people that have broken carbon rims, but it is usually a manufacturer defect that is covered by warranty. My neighbor has heen running the LB carbons for years no issue, and he's kinda crazy on a bike....
 
#1,085 ·
Nice. so I've got some renthal fatlite carbon bars on the way, which will drop 170g over my current bars. Sometime after the holiday$ I'll pick up some raceface Next SL cranks, which will drop 375g compared to my current e13 LG1+s. That's .5kg or 1lb!

More easy weight to lose in my ghetto 1x9 drivetrain and seat collar. But that will wait. Anyways 30.5 for my medium seems doable.
 
#1,087 ·
I'm pretty anal about tire pressure, very rarely do I smack a rim, like almost never, and I'm at 27 psi front with my 2.5.

I am twiddling around on the Derby website right now. Hmmm. I forget my LG1+ hub weight specs, but I'm thinking that they aren't much heavier than a small flange hub. XT crankset, KS 150mm LEV. No one thing on my bike besides my tires is excessively heavy, but it all adds up.
 
#1,091 ·
Just spent some time crunching numbers, I'd have to spend A LOT of money to knock off 2 lbs. My seat post is heavy, and my tires, otherwise everything else is within reason to much more expensive components. I think my efforts would be more greatly rewarded if they were applied to me eating less ice cream and less Skittles.
 
#1,095 ·


31.4lb
Large polished frame
X-Fusion Trace fork
Fox shock
Spank Spoon riser bar (blue)
Funn Crossfire stem (polished)
WTB Silverado saddle
ESI Chunky grips
XT M780(?) crankset and BB
E13 G-Ring (blue) - 32t
XT 10 M780 speed trigger shifter
XT brakes with 160mm rear and 180mm front
XT shadow+ 10 speed rear derailleur
Generic blue headset I found on ebay
Pink Hope hubs laced to WTB i23 rims (32h, 3x)
Pink Purely Custom top cap and seatpost clamp with my logo and brand (as per my avatar and signature)
Geax AKA rear and Sturdy front.
Time ATAC pedals
 
#1,105 ·
Put my xl prime together last night and it came in at 32.5 lbs. . .

I have some XT brakes w/ice tech rotors (180f, 160r) coming and a carbon handlebar to replace my 385gm bar. Still think it's gonna be over 31lbs. The only other cost effective place I can save weight is on my tires, but I need wide tires for the sand in the area.

My previous bike was a 29.8 lb Transition Trans am hardtail, which I was able to break some hill climbing-strava records on (cause the pros near here must not be using strava). Hopefully this beast will climb as well as all the reviews claim, and allow me to ride more of the rocky-gnarly stuff at the nearby resort...
 
#1,106 ·
I build my bikes as light as I can but stop short of putting to light a wheel set or tires to do the job the bike was meant for.

Don't try to hard chasing weight on a bike like that.
 
#1,107 ·
I want to use the bike as it's intended and I want to be able to bomb down hill effectively, but it would be nice if riding up hill was as easy as possible!

I don't think it will be too great of an issue since it just means I'll be in that much better shape.

I do wish I would have gone with the stans arch wheels instead of the flow ex, would have saved 3/4 of a lb-all rotational weight! I actually see myself putting the purgatory UST tire I have back on this summer since it seems to help on the gravel over hardpack at mammoth, but that means a good half a pound more than the Ardent EXO.

At least I don't have to worry about this bike breaking in the next couple of years, that will be my mantra as my lungs and thighs are dying.
 
#1,108 ·
I want to use the bike as it's intended and I want to be able to bomb down hill effectively, but it would be nice if riding up hill was as easy as possible!

I don't think it will be too great of an issue since it just means I'll be in that much better shape.

I do wish I would have gone with the stans arch wheels instead of the flow ex, would have saved 3/4 of a lb-all rotational weight! I actually see myself putting the purgatory UST tire I have back on this summer since it seems to help on the gravel over hardpack at mammoth, but that means a good half a pound more than the Ardent EXO.

At least I don't have to worry about this bike breaking in the next couple of years, that will be my mantra as my lungs and thighs are dying.
IMO if you are thinking you should have gone Arch EX then you are on the wrong bike.

That said, I think if you buy a bike like the prime, You should have a couple of wheel options anyway.

I have a couple of sets of Arch EX's & they just don't give you the nice solid feel of a Flow or Flow EX.

Save up for some Light Bike carbon rims & get the light & stiff feel from your wheel set.
 
#1,114 ·
Cool, thanks guys, I have another question: how much drop do you guys have from saddle to handlebars? I have a ton of spacers under the stem and a riser but still have 3 or so inches of drop (when I'm not on the bike). The bike feels like a monster truck though, I road laps in my front yard yesterday and I could plow over almost anything 1/4 of wheel height.

I'm definately going for a night ride tonight, last night I had to make dinner for guests.
 
#1,116 ·
A wheel/rim question(s)... Amongst other things.

I've been following this build thread as well as anything I can find elsewhere since I've decided that the Banshee Prime is going to be my next bike.
I'm currently in the planning stages of my build.
Specifically I'm looking at wheels/rims now. I've spent the last 2 weeks reading through the almost 5000 posts of the (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rim thread in the 29er Components forum. I've also seen the recent posts in this thread relating to the carbon rims from Light Bicycle.

My question/concern is whether these rims will stand up to the abuse that I will deliver. I've seen pics of FM riding his Prime on the same/similar terrain and features/stunts that I ride but he looks to be half my size. I'm 6'6" and 245ish geared up. If I remember correctly FM and few others with the Prime are riding the Light Bicycle carbon rims as well.

I'm a bit of a smashy rider. I'm by no means a hack but I don't always choose the smoothest line. I choose the line that I feel will get me to where I need to be. I also don't shy away from drops, jumps or steep gnarl.

I've been riding a Kona Honzo for the past 2 seasons here in Whistler and in the surrounding areas - Squamish and Pemberton. I've gone through quite a few freehubs and rims in those 2 seasons. I realize that the Honzo is an HT and the rear wheel/rim takes way more abuse than a FS bike. But my other bikes (26") past and present have been FS and I've had to replace rear rims and freehubs somewhat regularly as well.

My tentative build (depending on finances):

Frame: XL Prime - red or ano black

Shock: X-Fusion Vector or CCDBa-CS (or whatever the choices are in my region when buying the bike)

Fork: RS Pike 140 or 150 or X-Fusion Trace

Drivetrain: SRAM - X9 or XO 2x10 with carbon cranks possibly.

Bars, Stem, Saddle, Pedals: Chromag - bars and stem first choice would be the new BZA 780mm carbon bars and BZA-35 stem, Trailmaster LTD or Moon saddle, Scarab pedals (clipless choice is the new CB Mallet DH pedals)

Seatpost: either a Stealth Reverb 150mm or a KS Lev 150mm

Wheels: custom build? - Light Bicycle wide carbon rims (35mm outer width with the extra layers of carbon for strength). I'm looking at the 12x150mm axle spacing option as that would be the burlier build for wheels. My concern is that if I smash the rear wheel I'm limited in quick replacement options while the main wheel gets repaired or replaced. This is why I'm also considering 12x142mm rear spacing.
I guess I could just order the 142mm dropouts in case I need them.
The hubs that I've been looking at are the DTSwiss 240s because of their star ratchet freehub system.
Other wheels I've looking at have been Industry 9 Gravity 29 wheelsets and the eThirteen TRS Enduro 29 wheelset.
I've been running the SunRinglé Charger Pro wheelset on my Honzo for the past 2 seasons but they are flexy under me and have been through warranty 3 times now for freehub issues.

Keep posting the action pics. It keeps my stoke and drive alive for this bike!

TL;DR - I'm a tall heavy guy who rides very hard. Looking to be convinced that the cheap chinese carbon 29er rims will last under me riding in the Whistler region. Opinions welcome on my build choices.
 
#1,123 · (Edited)
If I remember correctly FM and few others with the Prime are riding the Light Bicycle carbon rims as well.
No, FM is riding Eastons that he bought used, and has had good experience with those. He's a lighter dude; lighter than you and I. Muzzanic is right - if you're going to do carbon, go Derby at the start and save yourself the money and time. I'm 225, and if/when I make the switch to carbon that's the only way I'm going to go. Despite FM's accolades, I don't want a system wheel, and mikesee seems happy with the Derbys too.

I have been really impressed with MTX-33s, but they don't do tubeless and they aren't light. Due to repeated hub failure (see below) I'm on my mid-weight wheelset which is Stan's FR rims, and they have been bomber for years, under 3 frames to date. I think the Flow EX is roughly comparable, although perhaps slightly less robust.

Good build spec. My random thoughts:

150mm rear. You're bigger than I am, riding bigger trails. 150mm.

I haven't used 240s, but I have ridden the hell out of 340s and 440s, and am on a 350 now, and been really impressed with the longevity. I guess I haven't compared them to a really high-engagement hub like a King or I9, but I haven't really felt the lack. I ride rock gardens too, but I suppose it's what you know. I'll have my other wheel built around a Hadley this winter, after I ditch the Hope.

I have the X-Fusion. I really like it. My buddy has gone through the honeymoon with his CCDBA (on a Chilcotin) and I've seen similar sentiments on the Knolly forum, too. But the shock has a lot of fans, more than detractors. Since you can get the Prime direct with a CCDBA it changes the calculus a bit, but the X-Fusion is a lot cheaper when buying just a shock.

Go 150 on the fork. I'd recommend the Pike, based on word-of-mouth. I don't know anything about the X-Fusion fork, and while I'm a fan of my shock, the word I've heard is that the difference in stiffness between the 34 and Pike is akin to the difference between the 32 and the 34.

Chromag cockpit: me too. Stem, bar, saddle. I love the Lynx DT. I have had them on all my bikes for the last 3 years, and I have a couple spares in my parts bin. One new, one torn up.

I went 2x10 with X9 mostly due to cost. I'd have been happy with the carbon X0 crank, but I was shaving dollars here and there. I do like the spider(less) options the SRAM cranks offer.

I haven't used a KS, but after 2 seasons on a Reverb, that's what I'd buy if I were doing it again. My Reverb was rebuilt in March and it needs it again.

Hope some of that helps.
 
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