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  1. #1201
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    Not sure what you consider a good deal, but to me $107 US for an XT M785 brake is a damn good deal from Wiggle, CRC has them for $113 US but they list most as the newer I-specB option. Both are out of stock of the rear, right hand lever, but if you're buying a pair you just easily swap the hoses around. I've been using CRC, they ship Royal Mail for $16 US and you can normally fit a lot for that and coming in through the post I hardly ever pay duties, get's here in about 10 days. The one thing I found I had to do was move the XTs in way closer to the grips than I used to have the Avids and Hayes, as they have a much shorter lever.
    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Exactly, who knows?I may be eating my words in the months to come!

    I started with getting great deals on SRAM parts so that is where all my buying went to when getting new parts. If I can somehow get a miraculous deal on XT or XTR brakes then that will become a serious option. But right now I can get a pretty solid deal on Avid/SRAM components and have had positive experiences with Avid up to this point.

    Funnily enough I don't use matchmakers with anything on my bars because of the size of my hands, where I rest them on the grips and the positions I like my brake levers and shifter paddles at. I even squeezed the Reverb button between the 2 shift paddles of my front derailleur shifter so that my bar ergonomics would work for me. I like to run the right-side Reverb button upside down on the left side.
    I know that you can run Shimano and SRAM bits together on the bars but the shape of the Shimano bits puts everything else in my setup out of whack. It leads me to either compromise my brake lever positions or my shifter positions.
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  2. #1202
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Exactly, who knows?

    I may be eating my words in the months to come!

    I never said that Shimano sucked nor that Avid was the best. I know that both companies make great components. Perspective and experience makes us choose one over the other.
    I just found the absolutist position that Avid outright sucks both entertaining, irksome and in need of a response.

    I started with getting great deals on SRAM parts so that is where all my buying went to when getting new parts. If I can somehow get a miraculous deal on XT or XTR brakes then that will become a serious option. But right now I can get a pretty solid deal on Avid/SRAM components and have had positive experiences with Avid up to this point.

    Funnily enough I don't use matchmakers with anything on my bars because of the size of my hands, where I rest them on the grips and the positions I like my brake levers and shifter paddles at. I even squeezed the Reverb button between the 2 shift paddles of my front derailleur shifter so that my bar ergonomics would work for me. I like to run the right-side Reverb button upside down on the left side.
    I know that you can run Shimano and SRAM bits together on the bars but the shape of the Shimano bits puts everything else in my setup out of whack. It leads me to either compromise my brake lever positions or my shifter positions.
    Everybody's physical attributes are different. For me, I run my brake levers way inboard, I have zero interference issues with Shimano brakes and SRAM shifters, luv my X9/X0 SRAM goodies as much as Shimano brakes. A few years ago I traded in my very noisy Elixirs for XT's and just keep using Shimano. I did seriously consider Hope's or Formula's for my Prime, but stuck with some Zee's, luv me some 4 piston calipers too.

    For each of us, what works, works.

  3. #1203
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Everybody's physical attributes are different. For me, I run my brake levers way inboard, I have zero interference issues with Shimano brakes and SRAM shifters, luv my X9/X0 SRAM goodies as much as Shimano brakes.
    This is my preferred setup, too.
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  4. #1204
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    My Prime with 650B rear wheel:

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-prime_02_2014.jpg

    Looks a bit strange, but the smaller rear wheel gives a little more clearance in tight technical terrain. Geometry stays the same with dropouts in steep position as the slack setting with 29" rear wheel.

  5. #1205
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    Doesn't look that strange..
    Like to know the HA with the dropouts in slack mode though?

  6. #1206
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    Quote Originally Posted by walt06 View Post
    the smaller rear wheel gives a little more clearance in tight technical terrain. Geometry stays the same with dropouts in steep position.
    Explain.

    No matter what wheel size you can fit in there you aren't changing the wheelbase.
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  7. #1207
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    Other than possibly mud clearance and initial acceleration I don't see a benefit to this. Your wb stays the same and the wheel will hang up a little more in rocky rooty tech stuff.

  8. #1208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kofoed View Post
    Doesn't look that strange..
    Like to know the HA with the dropouts in slack mode though?
    On the first ride with the 650B rear wheel I rode it in the middle dropout setting but I didn't liked it as the seat angle was to slack und BB a little too low.

    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    Explain.

    No matter what wheel size you can fit in there you aren't changing the wheelbase.
    I was talking about the clearance around the rear wheel. In very steep sections I had contact with my butt on the rear wheel, especially when the rear suspension dives in on riding down a step. I often ride hiking trails with tight switchbacks where you have to nose-wheelie/front-pivot the bike around the turn, or turn around on place with little space. With the smaller wheel you have a shorter overall length of the bike.
    It was ok with the 29er rear wheel, but as the big wheel doesn't help much downhill I decided to try it with 650B in the rear.

  9. #1209
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    Quote Originally Posted by walt06 View Post
    My Prime with 650B rear wheel:
    Interesting...kinda cool that you can adjust things to keep BB height & head/seat angles in check. edit: looking at Banshee's geo charts, the WB/Chainstay length appears to shorten a bit with the flip chips in the hi setting, a benefit IMO if you can keep the rest of the #'s in check.
    Chainstay Length Low - 448mm (17.6") | Neutral - 445mm (17.5") | High - 443mm (17.4")

    Maybe it's a touch easier to manual with the rear axle height lower?, maybe easier to tail-whip? Did you build this after running it 29:29, or is this a fresh build (IE I'm interested to hear if there's a ride comparison you may be able to comment on). edit - just saw you posted my answer above...I probably would have played w/ adjusting the rear end to a slacker setting w/ 29:29 before committing to this change...nonetheless, it's all about the miles of smiles you get out of your own build that counts the most.
    Last edited by C.P.; 02-21-2014 at 01:40 PM.

  10. #1210
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    walt06, thats pretty cool!
    I hear what you're sayin about azz-clearance. Pretty common to buzz your bum on ultra-steep rollers. DO you notice any downsides to the smaller rear, like climbing?

    Also, is that a monarch plus? How is that?
    Great lookin' bike.

  11. #1211
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Also, is that a monarch plus? How is that?
    YES, I would like to know also. I've only had my Prime since June, and already sent the CCDBAir in for repair work...kinda bummed about that, so already preparing to look for options in case I need to bail on it.

  12. #1212
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    DO you notice any downsides to the smaller rear, like climbing?
    Hm, I have no real back-to-back comparison between the 2 rear wheels (my 29er wheel is not X01 compatible). Downhill I don't feel any downsides. Traction uphill is a little less, but that's 650B High Roller with its ramped knobs compared to Hans Dampf 29. Nevertheless for allround use I think I would prefer 29" front and rear.

    Would be interesting to see how shorter dropouts would work - although I find the bike well balanced with the original geometry.

    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Also, is that a monarch plus? How is that?
    Yes, it's a Monarch Plus RC3 High Volume with M/M tune. Feels very plush and dialed to the 150mm Pike. The Fox CTD I had to ride in the trail setting to get sufficient compression damping, compromising the suppleness. Whereas the Monarch I can ride in open position in all situations. However I only rode it on natural trails yet, so I can't comment on berms and jumps.

  13. #1213
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    Thinking about getting a new shock for my Prime to try something other than the Float CTD.

    Contenders are DBAir and Monarch Plus. Dark horses would be RS Vivid Air and the X-Fusion Vector Air.

    Monarch Plus has the advantages of cheaper and lighter. Possibly easier to set up. Disadvantages would be perhaps harder to source the correct tune and not as many Prime users running it to help me with setup.

    I am kind of leaning towards DBAir just because it is "Banshee approved" and there are a lot of other users out there. Cost and weight are disadvantages, but not huge ones. I would like to hear about reliability. I guess I will always have the Float as a backup, but I hate unreliable stuff. I am also a little worried that the DBAir has too much adjustability - I am not a shock expert by any means. I am torn between the desire to tinker and the fear of being overwhelmed.

    One perk of the DBAir is that I am almost local to Cane Creek - about a two hour drive away. So that might come in handy if I have to send it in for service.

    Thoughts & suggestions welcome.

  14. #1214
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    I have been very pleased with my Vector Air. So much so that when I move to the production frame, I'm seriously considering keeping it and using the CCDBA as 'buy me' bait for selling the pre-production frame. I don't have any experience with the CCDBA myself, but the honeymoon has ended for several of my friends.
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  15. #1215
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    the honeymoon has ended for several of my friends.
    Can you elaborate? Ended due to reliability issues? Performance issues?

  16. #1216
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    One has never been able to get happy with it on his Chilcotin, and I know a couple others who have had some of the reliability issues you've probably read about on the forums. Granted, that's anecdotal and the odds of good results are probably much higher.
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  17. #1217
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    I have one of the earlier DBairs and I wasn't impressed with it either. Did some diggin' (in a Chilly thread actually) and realized I had one of the old air sleeve designs which was limiting travel and making it more harsh. I contacted Cane Creek and they had me send it to Suspension Experts in Asheville and they updated the air sleeve free of charge minus shipping. I've yet to test it out, but will report back afterwards.

    So my point is, take reviews with a grain of salt. They might have the old low flow air sleeve. Once the issue was found, Cane Creek was on top of it and took great care of me.

    I also have a XFusion HLR Air which is a great shock as well, I'll have to compare the two later after some saddle time with the DBair.

  18. #1218
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    I recently bought the CCDBair CS, and I hope very much that I don't have issues with it. So far, 2 months, it has been buttery smooth-especially compared to my very sticky X-fusion Trace Fork. . .
    195 lbs-6'4" Banshee Prime XL
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  19. #1219
    AOK
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    sticky X-fusion Trace Fork. . .
    Doh! Don't tell me that. I just put a Trace on my hard tail.

  20. #1220
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    Thinking about getting a new shock for my Prime to try something other than the Float CTD.
    Thoughts & suggestions welcome.
    If anyones interested in some temporary shock demo/ trades, lemme know!

    I have only a Fox Rp23 that has the factory tuning system & big hit kit, tuned specifically for the Prime. Feels great compared to the original stock rp23 but I'd be curious to try an air shock with a reservoir on the Prime.

  21. #1221
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    Thinking about getting a new shock for my Prime to try something other than the Float CTD.
    get a used manitou isx-6. you'll spend very little, get to play with all of the settings to your heart's content, and have a great feeling shock. then, when you start to feel insecure about not having the latest and greatest, you'll know exactly what tune to get when you shell out for something overpriced and less adjustable

  22. #1222
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    get a used manitou isx-6. you'll spend very little, get to play with all of the settings to your heart's content, and have a great feeling shock. then, when you start to feel insecure about not having the latest and greatest, you'll know exactly what tune to get when you shell out for something overpriced and less adjustable
    This!
    I´m running a Evolver-ISX4 from my Wildcard in my Spitfire. The only difference I feel is the SPV-Platform - it gives a slightly better pedalling while reducing the very little bob, where the CCDB (non CS) has minimum more sensitive on the very small bumps. Still a great but underrated shock!

  23. #1223
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    AW: Production Prime Photo/Build thread




    I'm primed... ;-)


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  24. #1224
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    I have one of the earlier DBairs and I wasn't impressed with it either. Did some diggin' (in a Chilly thread actually) and realized I had one of the old air sleeve designs which was limiting travel and making it more harsh. I contacted Cane Creek and they had me send it to Suspension Experts in Asheville and they updated the air sleeve free of charge minus shipping. I've yet to test it out, but will report back afterwards.

    So my point is, take reviews with a grain of salt. They might have the old low flow air sleeve. Once the issue was found, Cane Creek was on top of it and took great care of me.
    how you know if you have the old or new air sleeve?
    Im so far happy with my DB Air, only drawback is that it could be slightly higher in travel when going uphill (is there a way to fix this?)

  25. #1225
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
    how you know if you have the old or new air sleeve?
    Im so far happy with my DB Air, only drawback is that it could be slightly higher in travel when going uphill (is there a way to fix this?)
    The only way to change this is to change your sag by changing air pressure.

    You can look here for help setting up your sag. Born on the Shore - The Banshee Bikes Blog: KS link bike sag charts
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  26. #1226
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
    how you know if you have the old or new air sleeve?
    Im so far happy with my DB Air, only drawback is that it could be slightly higher in travel when going uphill (is there a way to fix this?)
    You have to remove the air can and look at the air sleeve.

  27. #1227
    AOK
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    [QUOTE=nomütze;11023419I'm primed... ;-)

    [/QUOTE]

    Nice ride! I guess you win the award for the first red Prime posted.

  28. #1228
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    @AOK: thanks for the award!

    Now some questions arose during the build though:

    1) I felt some play in the main pivot of the upper linkage (seat-tube).
    After disassembling, greasing und assembling again it feels fine. However just wondering, what could cause the play. Torque was ok and should not be
    the main issue per design. And yes, it was radial play.

    2) When the rear suspension is coming out of compression it feels like it tops out into a mechanical stop. i kind of "clonk"ing. Now is it because of rear suspension design or a missing end bumper in my X-fusion O2 rcx?
    (edit says: just played around in the garage and of course it´s not the design, it´s
    the x-fusion damper...well, have to wait until riding if it annoys me!?)

    thx for advice

  29. #1229
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    ad 2)....just solved it: x-fusion shock arrived with an empty negative air chamber.
    Refilling didn't do the job, so I unmounted the air can and cleaned/lubricated internals.
    When sliding the can back on, the negative chamber is filled automatically...as far as i understood it. The downside of this design is that if the negative air is leaking out you have to do the can-un/mounting again....

  30. #1230
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    AW: Production Prime Photo/Build thread




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  31. #1231
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    Did you call X-Fusion to figure this out? Auto negative air is something that happens when you cycle the shock after setting air pressure, as just like the positive air, it has to balance out, couldn't have only 1 negative air pressure, then the shock would behave absolutely all over the place depending on your weight and what PSI you used. If you ever owned and used an RS Dual Air fork, you would understand this better, IF you ever got the fork setup properly

    Quote Originally Posted by nomütze View Post
    ad 2)....just solved it: x-fusion shock arrived with an empty negative air chamber.
    Refilling didn't do the job, so I unmounted the air can and cleaned/lubricated internals.
    When sliding the can back on, the negative chamber is filled automatically...as far as i understood it. The downside of this design is that if the negative air is leaking out you have to do the can-un/mounting again....
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  32. #1232
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    Well, googled another x-fusion owner with similar problem. I might be wrong but the O2 shock is missing that small overflow to balance the press. between neg/pos Air Fox/RS shocks have...
    However i understand your point. But my frame came with the shock installed and pressurized. I just set around 150psi and then felt this "clonk".
    So every other attempt to come around this issue failed...until remounting air can.
    Maybe another x-fusion user or mech can jump in?!
    But for now it is working...


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    Hey guys,

    just registered at this board after reading it for several months ;-)
    Just thought I'll post some pictures of my WIP Prime build.













    My first custom built (by me ) bike ever. Took me about 2 weeks to get all the parts and put it together - mostly because I just didn't have all the tools that I needed.

    Specs so far:
    - Banshee Prime Frame
    - Rock Shox Pike RCT3 150mm Solo Air
    - SLX/XT mixture
    - XT brakes
    - black/blue color theme
    - Hope Pro 2 / ZTR Flow EX

    To do:
    - new wheels with blue/black color scheme, will arrive in 2-3 weeks (Hope Pro 2 hubs with Ryde Trail rims... or should I get the Ryde Enduro? Can't make up my mind... 29mm interior width should be overkill for me) - nothings wrong with the old wheels ... I just want to match the wheels to my color scheme... yeah, I'm nuts...
    - Dropper post
    - remove the white decals (I'm thinking about stealth decals maybe)
    - get rid of the spacer tower
    - chain guide
    - convert 3x10 setup to 2x10 + bashguard

    Cheers
    Dan
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Production Prime Photo/Build thread-2014-02-21-17.32.35.jpg  


  34. #1234
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    Love the black and blue combo....nice Prime!

  35. #1235
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    Great looking build! You might want to re-route your front brake hose inside the fork leg.

    Size large frame? How tall are you?

  36. #1236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    Great looking build! You might want to re-route your front brake hose inside the fork leg.

    Size large frame? How tall are you?
    Yeah, have to reroute it and also chop the brake lines. They both are ~15cm too long but I wanted to testdrive it asap

    I'm 1,85m with 89cm inseam length.

  37. #1237
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    Can't blame you for that

  38. #1238
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    Clean looking build, good job for your first one.

  39. #1239
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    red prime ready to ride...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Production Prime Photo/Build thread-img_20140227_161433_sophia.jpg  


  40. #1240
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    Definitely a nice looking build, good job as a first timer Yeah, can't blame you for just wanting to ride, but here's some good news for you, with those XTs, generally if you do it right, you don't need to bleed them when you trim the lines, so should be a 5 min job, just use a sharp blade and the provided yellow clamp pieces and when re-installing just lightly squeeze the lever until you see fluid appear out the end of the reservoir where you'd push the hose back in, install hose and tighten. As for wanting a colour match wheelset, if you've can afford it, why not If funds aren't tight you keep the lighter set with lighter tyres for more XC type trails/days and the HD on the burlier set, or a set or dry weather on one set and wet on the other.
    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    Great looking build! You might want to re-route your front brake hose inside the fork leg.

    Size large frame? How tall are you?
    Quote Originally Posted by mDaniel View Post
    Yeah, have to reroute it and also chop the brake lines. They both are ~15cm too long but I wanted to testdrive it asap

    I'm 1,85m with 89cm inseam length.
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    Thanks for the tip LyNx... I trimmed the lines yesterday evening and everything went fine without needing bleeding

    Keeping both wheelsets was my idea too Wanted to put Mountain King/XKing on the Ryde Trail set and the HD (or maybe even something "more different" from the MK/XK set) on the ZTR Flow

    Any suggestions for a dropper post? I had a reverb on my old bike but I'm thinking about a KS Lev...

    @mütze: nice build

  42. #1242
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    I'm back in the club. Went with a medium this time instead of a Large, so far I think I made the right choice riding around the 'hood. The proto that I had was a medium and I loved it, but I somehow talked myself into thinking a large would fit me better and it always felt a bit too long.

    Pics to come later.

    Of course it's yellow

    The plan is for this to be my placeholder until the Phantom is available, we'll see.

  43. #1243
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    Welcome back! Looking forward to these pics.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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  44. #1244
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    Quote Originally Posted by mDaniel View Post
    Thanks for the tip LyNx... I trimmed the lines yesterday evening and everything went fine without needing bleeding

    Keeping both wheelsets was my idea too Wanted to put Mountain King/XKing on the Ryde Trail set and the HD (or maybe even something "more different" from the MK/XK set) on the ZTR Flow

    Any suggestions for a dropper post? I had a reverb on my old bike but I'm thinking about a KS Lev...

    @mütze: nice build
    I've had 3 LEV's and an i900, really like KS seat posts. Currently my LEV from my Paradox is at KS being repaired, the kevlar actuator cable broke. My i900 had developed a minimal vertical play that KS fixed right up. 4 posts, 4 years, only 2 problems. My buddy, who is a LBS head mechanic, really likes the RockShox post.

  45. #1245
    AOK
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    @Evasive - did you get any of the factory tuning from X-Fusion on your Vector HLR or are you just running a stock model on your prime?

    @Colin - curious which shock you are running on the prime this time around.

  46. #1246
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    @Evasive - did you get any of the factory tuning from X-Fusion on your Vector HLR or are you just running a stock model on your prime?

    @Colin - curious which shock you are running on the prime this time around.
    I've got a CCDB XV on there now, first ride to come today. I also have a XF Vector HLR Air to try at sometime as well so I'd be interested in Evasive's answer/tips.

  47. #1247
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    Far as I know since the Vector HLR has High/Low speed adjustments, there's not really any tuning they offer for it, at least that's what I remember when talking to John at X-Fusion about it. Far as I remember, there were 3 or 4 guys who tested the Primes using the Vector and not one wasn't happy with them. If funds permit down the road I'd like to pick one up for mine, but right now anything spare will be going into my Phantom build and will be running an 02 RCX & TRACE on that.
    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    @Evasive - did you get any of the factory tuning from X-Fusion on your Vector HLR or are you just running a stock model on your prime?

    @Colin - curious which shock you are running on the prime this time around.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  48. #1248
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    @Evasive - did you get any of the factory tuning from X-Fusion on your Vector HLR or are you just running a stock model on your prime?
    Stock. I didn't ask about the factory tuning options as I didn't hear about them until after I'd bought it. But I'm quite satisfied with its performance as-is.

    Edit- just saw LyNx's post. I do remember someone commenting about their in-house tuning for an extra $50. This was over a year ago, so I don't remember the details. They didn't pitch it to me as an option, though (I bought it over the phone).
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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  49. #1249
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    More to come, the forum and my pics aren't getting along.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Production Prime Photo/Build thread-0301141452a.jpg  


  50. #1250
    AOK
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    X-Fusion mentions factory tunes on their website. And a lot of the posts about vector airs mention a custom tune (i.e. DW link or VPP tunes). If I go with the vector, I will most likely just opt for a stock version.

    Colin - let me know how your new and improved DBAir does.

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