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  1. #1801
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    Well, it seems the incurable bike disease of Upgrade-itis has flared up again!

    The flare up was caused by selling a bike I had given up on selling. I had it posted for the last 1.5 years and finally someone bought it! I was definitely sad to see it go as it had a near and dear spot in my heart even though I hadn't ridden it in a long while. It was a Knolly Delrium.

    I just ordered a 2017 Fox Float 36 HSC/LSC 150mm fork for my Prime and a NOBL Wheels rim to go on an eThirteen LG1+ I have.

    The trickle down effect in my stable has caused me to build a new wheel. I'm moving the 34 to my Honzo. But the current fork and wheel combo on the Honzo is a 20mm TA. And the hub can't be adapted to 15mm for the 34.
    So, I'm moving my current front end from my Prime to my Honzo and my Prime will be receiving a brand new front end!

    For the Prime I'm going to put both the fork and hub adaptability to use and run it with the 20mm TA.
    The 34 is a decent fork but I have been feeling like I'm getting close to out riding it at times on the Prime.

    I'll hopefully have the fork by the middle of next week and the wheel built up shortly thereafter.

    Stoked!

  2. #1802
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    Friend just got an F36, nice fork, says he can feel some definite improvement over his PIKE. I'm going to throw a bit of maybe not what you want to hear thinking out there..... couldn't you put the 20mm wheel from the Honzo into the F36 since it does either 20mm or 15mm?

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Well, it seems the incurable bike disease of Upgrade-itis has flared up again!

    The flare up was caused by selling a bike I had given up on selling. I had it posted for the last 1.5 years and finally someone bought it! I was definitely sad to see it go as it had a near and dear spot in my heart even though I hadn't ridden it in a long while. It was a Knolly Delrium.

    I just ordered a 2017 Fox Float 36 HSC/LSC 150mm fork for my Prime and a NOBL Wheels rim to go on an eThirteen LG1+ I have.

    The trickle down effect in my stable has caused me to build a new wheel. I'm moving the 34 to my Honzo. But the current fork and wheel combo on the Honzo is a 20mm TA. And the hub can't be adapted to 15mm for the 34.
    So, I'm moving my current front end from my Prime to my Honzo and my Prime will be receiving a brand new front end!

    For the Prime I'm going to put both the fork and hub adaptability to use and run it with the 20mm TA.
    The 34 is a decent fork but I have been feeling like I'm getting close to out riding it at times on the Prime.

    I'll hopefully have the fork by the middle of next week and the wheel built up shortly thereafter.

    Stoked!
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  3. #1803
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Friend just got an F36, nice fork, says he can feel some definite improvement over his PIKE. I'm going to throw a bit of maybe not what you want to hear thinking out there..... couldn't you put the 20mm wheel from the Honzo into the F36 since it does either 20mm or 15mm?
    Nope!

    The Honzo wheelset is not going near my Prime!
    It's a decent wheelset. It just doesn't go with the Feng Shui of my build on the Prime. Also, it's not a carbon rim.

    Would it have been cheaper? Sure.
    Would I have been happy with the aesthetics? No.
    Do I have the money to upgrade right now? Hell, YES!

    All this being said, if I had an utter disaster with my wheel(s) on the Prime then the Honzo's wheels would do in a pinch as a stand-in until something more suitable could be procured.

  4. #1804
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    Hey, sorry, was only having some fun playing "Devils Advocate" Of course nothing is better than new and if you've got the funds to do it, then for sure, do it Out of curiosity, what wheels do you have on the Honzo and why wouldn't you want them on the Prime? I'm guessing maybe not as burly or wide as what you're getting

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Nope!

    The Honzo wheelset is not going near my Prime!
    It's a decent wheelset. It just doesn't go with the Feng Shui of my build on the Prime. Also, it's not a carbon rim.

    Would it have been cheaper? Sure.
    Would I have been happy with the aesthetics? No.
    Do I have the money to upgrade right now? Hell, YES!

    All this being said, if I had an utter disaster with my wheel(s) on the Prime then the Honzo's wheels would do in a pinch as a stand-in until something more suitable could be procured.
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  5. #1805
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    The flare up was caused by selling a bike I had given up on selling. I had it posted for the last 1.5 years and finally someone bought it! I was definitely sad to see it go as it had a near and dear spot in my heart even though I hadn't ridden it in a long while. It was a Knolly Delrium.
    Understand the attachment, but glad you found it a home. Bikes get their feelings hurt when they don't get ridden! Some things take time to sell before the right person comes along.

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    For the Prime I'm going to put both the fork and hub adaptability to use and run it with the 20mm TA.
    The 34 is a decent fork but I have been feeling like I'm getting close to out riding it at times on the Prime.
    Based on the pics you've posted over the last year or so, I will not argue with you there! I don't always comment, but I always enjoy checking them out. I look forward to seeing the new setup!

  6. #1806
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    The new air spring retrofit makes the 34 a whole different fork. I'd highly recommend doing that while you have it off to transfer to your Honzo.

  7. #1807
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Hey, sorry, was only having some fun playing "Devils Advocate" Of course nothing is better than new and if you've got the funds to do it, then for sure, do it Out of curiosity, what wheels do you have on the Honzo and why wouldn't you want them on the Prime? I'm guessing maybe not as burly or wide as what you're getting

    My Honzo wheelset is a bought used set of MTX33 rims built onto the original low end front Formula hub from the stock Honzo wheelset (non-adaptable 20mmTA) and a 3 or 4 year old bought used SRAM X9 rear hub that has been ticking along very nicely, surprisingly!

    I had the wheels built at one of my favourite trusted shops for wheel building here in Whistler and they have been bomb proof if not a little heavy.

    I've ordered a carbon rim through NOBL Wheels. They're a Canadian company based here in BC.
    I looked at picking up another Derby rim but even with the deal for being a repeat customer the exchange rate on the dollar still made it more expensive than the NOBL rim.
    The dimensions are similar. The NOBL rim is a millimetre wider on both the inner and outer widths.

    I did contemplate LB rims but the wait time was too long.

  8. #1808
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    The new air spring retrofit makes the 34 a whole different fork. I'd highly recommend doing that while you have it off to transfer to your Honzo.
    Thanks, maybe I'll look into that.
    I've heard very little about the new 34. But, admittedly, I haven't been paying attention to that.

  9. #1809
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks, maybe I'll look into that.
    I've heard very little about the new 34. But, admittedly, I haven't been paying attention to that.
    Again, highly recommended. It's not that expensive, and improvement is very noticeable.

    http://m.pinkbike.com/news/fox-wants...pring-kit.html

  10. #1810
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    Been looking to do this to mine and a friends F34s. Called Fox and asked the tech which would offer most improvement, new air spring on a 14-15 or new damper and he said without doubt, new air spring. On a BIG plus, the new air springs go back to the old way of adjusting travel and use snap on spacers and let them go to 120mm again.

    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    The new air spring retrofit makes the 34 a whole different fork. I'd highly recommend doing that while you have it off to transfer to your Honzo.
    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks, maybe I'll look into that.
    I've heard very little about the new 34. But, admittedly, I haven't been paying attention to that.
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  11. #1811
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    Still love the frame.

    Shorter chainstay should be only change, try to get them to 17.1ish.
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  12. #1812
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Again, highly recommended. It's not that expensive, and improvement is very noticeable.

    Fox Wants to Upgrade Your Float 34 Fork With Its New Air-Spring Kit - Pinkbike
    Thanks for the link.
    And, damn you for feeding my Upgrade-itis!!

    I have a 2014 34 Float CTD w/ Trail Adjust. The damper isn't too bad but I do wish for a little more adjustment in the form LSC in the D setting. I find the T setting to be a little too firm off the top even with the Trail Adj set to soft.

    In your experience does the new air spring help any of this? Or would I be better off getting an aftermarket damper such as the TLA from Vorsprung?

    From what the article states is that the top of the stroke has been made more supple. But I wonder if that upgrade will make the mid stroke suffer on older forks.

  13. #1813
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks for the link.
    And, damn you for feeding my Upgrade-itis!!

    I have a 2014 34 Float CTD w/ Trail Adjust. The damper isn't too bad but I do wish for a little more adjustment in the form LSC in the D setting. I find the T setting to be a little too firm off the top even with the Trail Adj set to soft.

    In your experience does the new air spring help any of this? Or would I be better off getting an aftermarket damper such as the TLA from Vorsprung?

    From what the article states is that the top of the stroke has been made more supple. But I wonder if that upgrade will make the mid stroke suffer on older forks.
    I'm afraid I don't have any experience with the CTD. I have a 2012 Float.

  14. #1814
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    I'm loving seeing all your primes here... and the great riding spots you have taken them to.

    Just wanted to do a bit of forum research with you all if you don't mind... since you have primes and have had time on them... what is your opinion on the amount of travel the frame offers. Do you have any desire for more, or for less, or is it just right for you?

    Likewise for geometry... any changes you would like to see in future iterations?

    Any feedback would be much appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Keith
    Keith, having had a Prime for about a half a year now I can say that this bike is nearing perfection. I have ridden many many many frames in the past, being a previous shop monkey and all for over 10 years.

    The only really improvements I can see for this frame are a bit shorter chainstay, say 17.2" ish, but too much shorter for it will probably start affecting this bikes incredible technical climbing. the only other thing I can really think of is a shock tuned for the frame. I have a DB shock and while i do like it, i'm not really blow away by it either, that big dead spot at the beginning of the stroke is annoying though I dont feel it at speed. Only other thing worth mentioning is that the cable routing could be a bit better I feel.

    Being a bit lighter would be nice but only if it didnt give up anything else.

    Unlike others have mentioned in this thread. I do not notice the "dead spot" in the travel, it might be there a tiny bit but nothing like my version 2 Nomad use to have.

    I would also like to note that I would keep front derailleur comparability if possible. If I was in a hillier place than where I am (50 miles west of me) I would seriously consider a 2x setup again. Well atleast until Sram Eagle gets cheaper.

    BTW being a taller rider, I will tell you that this frame has fit my much better than anything else I have every ridden. Though I think this would hold true with most of the modern geo. frames. That being said the geo tweaks on the 2016 frame is what made me go with the frame and when a long way to perfecting the ride I am sure. I'm running it with a 150mm Pike and that really feels like the sweet spot to me. surprisingly balanced feeling.

    BTW, I also use this bike in endurance races and will be park riding it as well later this year. Though nothing too crazy :P
    2500 mile goal for 2016

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  15. #1815
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    I finally got my new fork!

    It's been a bit of an aggravating wait.
    The Fox distributor that my shop deals with kept promising the fork would be arriving on a particular day and when that didn't happen he would just promise another date a week later.
    My shop cut the middle man out and dealt with Fox directly to find out what was going on. It turns out there was a delay for which no explanation was given.

    In the end I got the 2016 Fox Float 36 HSC/LSC 150mm 29er fork because there was one available and the 2017 forks were still in transit in a container somewhere in the Pacific. The only difference between the model years is the stickers on the fork.
    My shop had it express shipped overnight and now I have a brand new fork!

    Alright, some pictures.






    I've only had one short ride this evening with the new fork.
    Right off the bat there is a big difference in how much better the F36 is than the F34. I know the damper is different and apples to oranges but there's so much more support through the stroke! I set the sag to the recommended "supple" 20% and dialed both the HSC and LSC to the middle settings and was off.

    I'm using the 20mm TA with my new front wheel build. The wheel is a NOBL Wheels HD36 rim mated to an eThirteen LG1+ hub.

    The ride was pretty good but it turns out that I should have used another stem spacer. I had thought that my spacing was correct when I put everything together but I guess that while riding everything in the headset settled down together creating some space and a slightly loose headset.
    Because of this I didn't ride too hard to see how the fork would perform.

    From what I could gather on my ride the fork is solid. Obviously I'll need some more time to get everything dialed in. Straight out of the box it does feel smooth. It rides high in the stroke and deals with small bumps very nicely.
    The fork comes with one token installed and 4 more extra to add if needed. Like I said I'll need some time to see if I need to add any more tokens when dealing with my setup.

    Don't get me wrong the F34 CTD is a decent fork. And, I'm riding the hell out of it now on my Honzo. It's just that when it was on my Prime it felt undergunned compared to the CCDBaCS on the rear. It made the bike feel uneven.

    My bar height is almost the same with the F36 as it was with the F34. The listed difference is 7mm in A2C. Because there isn't much of a bar height difference climbing steep sections feels the same.

    Anyway, I'm excited to charge hard and get sendy with the F36!
    I've been solely riding my Honzo for the last few weeks and I noticed how much faster I can go now that I'm back on my Prime. Maybe I should do that as a regular thing to help get better/faster; spend a chunk of time throughout the season only riding my HT to improve my overall riding skills and get faster when back on a full susser.

  16. #1816
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  17. #1817
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    That second video is pretty sweet! I like the effort to make that look smooth!

  18. #1818
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    I was out for a sizable ride today.

    The F36 is awesome! The front end of the Prime is much more controlled and solid feeling.
    I'm still dialling my settings in so I don't know yet if I'll need to add more tokens to the fork.
    The bike is much more balanced front to back.

    Here's a few pics from my adventure today.
    Some stats:
    40km door to door
    1382m of climbing
    1 awesome time riding my bike!

    Thumbs up! About to drop into Upper Howler


    One of the views from Howler.


    Peaking over the top of the actual Green Monster on the trail Green Monster.


    I had to take a picture of my shock because of just how hard I had bottomed out riding a feature on Green Monster! The travel indicator elastic is buried!
    Time to up the HSC.

  19. #1819
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    So RE, do you now feel that the fork matches the shock in performance and feel? Friend got an F36, but got the TALAS so lost all the nice features that make the F36 so nice

    On the new Fox airspring, I've heard it makes a big difference to the earlier forks, when I talked to a Fox tech and asked if it was worth it over the new damper, he said most definitely get the new air spring. Have a friend who owns one, going to be ordering and installing for him this summer, so we'll see what the verdict is.
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  20. #1820
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    I may have missed it somewhere, but has anybody got a good F36 vs Pike comparison?
    Low and slack.

  21. #1821
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    So RE, do you now feel that the fork matches the shock in performance and feel? Friend got an F36, but got the TALAS so lost all the nice features that make the F36 so nice

    On the new Fox airspring, I've heard it makes a big difference to the earlier forks, when I talked to a Fox tech and asked if it was worth it over the new damper, he said most definitely get the new air spring. Have a friend who owns one, going to be ordering and installing for him this summer, so we'll see what the verdict is.
    Yes, I'd say the F36 HSC/LSC matches the CCDBaCS for feel. Both are controlled and well mannered in the rough and deal with big hits well.

    Although, the CCDBaCS was a time consuming pain in the ass to get set up the way I wanted it to ride. Even now that I'm "happy"with it I had an instance on yesterday's ride where I felt the shock should have handled the hit better. I bottomed the hardest I've ever bottomed on any shock I've had! I keep thinking about getting volume spacers for my shock. I really should just do it so that I can stop playing "what if".

    I heard about the new air spring over in the Honzo build thread. Someone suggested I look into getting one for my 2014 F34 CTD that I moved to my Honzo from my Prime. From what I've been able to find out it does sound like it ups the performance of the fork. If my new F36 is any indication it seems like it would be worth it. Granted the dampers are completely different so I'd be worried that I'd be spending money and get no upgrade in performance.

    I've also found out from a reputable source that the Performance series of Fox forks are built with a similar damper to the Charger damper in RS forks. The guy who helped develop the Charger at RS has moved to Fox and helped develop the Performance series forks.
    My source told me that the Fox Performance fork rides very similar to the Pike. The difference is that it has less knobs to twiddle (less adjustments). I'm not sure what fork he was riding. Whether it was a 36 or a 34.
    The Performance Series forks are a step below the Factory Series.

  22. #1822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    I may have missed it somewhere, but has anybody got a good F36 vs Pike comparison?
    This is a thread from almost a year ago from a forum in my region. I realize you don't know any of the people posting but they are solid riders with great info. One of the posters works for Rocky Mountain IIRC.

    29er Fork - Fox 36 or Pike - North Shore Mountain Biking Forums

    The short of the long is the 36 rides a little firmer than the Pike but they are very comparable.

  23. #1823
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    Good to hear, thanks for the feedback, looking maybe at picking up a CC DB Inline for my Phantom.

    On the performance Series, yeah, anyone I've talked to says that the only thing they share with previous years is the name, performance is actually pretty much on par with the older model Factory.

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Yes, I'd say the F36 HSC/LSC matches the CCDBaCS for feel. Both are controlled and well mannered in the rough and deal with big hits well..............................I've also found out from a reputable source that the Performance series of Fox forks are built with a similar damper to the Charger damper in RS forks. The guy who helped develop the Charger at RS has moved to Fox and helped develop the Performance series forks.
    My source told me that the Fox Performance fork rides very similar to the Pike. The difference is that it has less knobs to twiddle (less adjustments). I'm not sure what fork he was riding. Whether it was a 36 or a 34.
    The Performance Series forks are a step below the Factory Series.
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  24. #1824
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    Here's a quick phone video edit from today's ride.
    We rode Green Monster. The trail has a lot of rock face lines. What made the ride even more exciting was that everything was nice and slick because of last night's quick downpour thunderstorm. Most of the rock was dry but our tires were not!

    My SO killed it on today's ride! I seemed to be all over the place with my bike. Granted she watched me go first and then could correct everything that I did wrong. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!

    Enjoy!



    Here's a few stills from the vid.









  25. #1825
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    I've been riding by this drop for years. It's just tech enough that I always had a reason not to do it.
    Today I decided to actually drop it. And, it was super easy.
    It's funny how features can grow huge in your mind when in real life they aren't any harder than a move you do regularly on some other trail.


  26. #1826
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Here's a quick phone video edit from today's ride.
    We rode Green Monster. The trail has a lot of rock face lines. What made the ride even more exciting was that everything was nice and slick because of last night's quick downpour thunderstorm. Most of the rock was dry but our tires were not!

    My SO killed it on today's ride! I seemed to be all over the place with my bike. Granted she watched me go first and then could correct everything that I did wrong. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!

    Enjoy!

    Love it! That sure is a skinny skinny!

  27. #1827
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    A little long, July 3rd, little Prime time on Green Mtn trail, Tucson.

    Nice otb at 7:30. Ribs and chest still hurt when I sneeze.

    Green Mtn trail Video - Pinkbike
    Low and slack.

  28. #1828
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    That trail looks fun!

    The closest we get to that kind of trail surface here in Whistler is after a prolonged hot and dry spell. Then it's like marbles on hardpack. I find that scary compared to the wet roots and slick rock.

  29. #1829
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    Any of you guys running a coil shock on your prime? I'm getting bored of ending up with air in the wrong place when riding in the alps so considering a coil to replace the DB Air.

  30. #1830
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    A few of the bigger guys AFAIR have run them, main reason most don't is for the ease of setup in general of an air spring, just add air if you need to increase of decrease, no need to buy a new spring, some may also run them for a bit of weight savings, although not really relevant with the overall weights of Primes. I think that even for a lighter rider a coil shock on the Prime would compliment it very well, as to me, the Prime is just a monster truck of a bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bunzl View Post
    Any of you guys running a coil shock on your prime? I'm getting bored of ending up with air in the wrong place when riding in the alps so considering a coil to replace the DB Air.
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  31. #1831
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    Thanks. I weigh 100kg and there's not much flab I could lose so that's it from a weight perspective. Might look at the cane creek db coil with the climb switch rather than having to pay to get the DB Air serviced all the time.

  32. #1832
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    Guys. I exactly on the same stage. Is there a way to convert DBAir to Coil or it's just new shock to be ordered?

  33. #1833
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    I had a great ride in Squamish this weekend!

    I'm loving how burly the F36 fork is. It complements the Prime so well. The flex I was feeling in the F34 is nonexistent in the 36.
    I've been pushing myself to ride harder and faster lines and the bike and new fork just keep on delivering!

    Sorry, no action shots. We were on a tear with great flow so no stopping.
    Although, we did have to stop on this trail to take in the view it provided of downtown Squamish and the Howe Sound.


    The last trail we rode, where the picture I posted is from, was in a video that OneUp made that was featured on Pinkbike. The trail is Dirk's Diggler. It has a ton of rock slabs. It was my first time riding this trail as it is relatively new. I'm stoked to have cleaned all the lines that were ridden in the video. And, no, I didn't Pedal up the entrance section that was shown in the vid! That is f'ing steep! Granted I wasn't as smooth! Also the track in the video was running through my head as I was riding the trail.
    The trail in question is all the descending rock lines in the vid. The main rock slab is the one with the wooden bear at the start of it.
    Here's the link to the video - http://m.pinkbike.com/news/squamish-...ideo-2016.html

  34. #1834
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    I finally got a dropper post that has enough drop on it that it actually is fully out of the way when down!

    I just picked up the 9point8 Fall Line Long Stroke 175mm post.
    I only have one ride with it so far but it's crazy what an extra 25mm of drop does for my control and movement over the bike.

    My Lev 150mm is a great post but when it was all the way down the seat still got in my way on steep sections of trail and when throwing shapes when jumping or dropping. On a few occasions I have even been caught behind my seat in some super steep gnar trail sections.

    First impressions of the 9point8 post are that it is a solid piece of equipment. Once it was on the bike there is no play. We'll see if that lasts. The little bit of play in other posts I've used never bothered me. Now that I have a post that has no play it just "feels" better.

    I have a 2013 Prime frame so no stealth routing. However, I came across a thread in the Banshee forum a while back that was asking about an option to route a stealth Reverb on a Spitty. The solution was to run the cable through a hole in the frame near the bottom bracket behind where the pivot is in the front triangle.
    I had a look a while back when I was regreasing my pivots to see if the hole was in the Prime frame as well. It turns out that it is!


    Getting everything ready.


    After a much longer time than I anticipated I got everything fed through the frame and the seatpost installed.
    Everything that I read was true about the 9point8 post set up. It is finicky. I followed the instructions to the T but I had issues with trying to get the cable actuator to screw into the post. Luckily I had set the barrel adjuster to half way out on the lever control. Once I gave more slack from the barrel adjuster I was able to screw the actuator into the post. But not before the was 45 minutes of cursing and double checking everything!










    I've been lucky with all my previous dropper posts. I've never had the reliability issues that a lot of of others have had.
    My reason for getting this post is for the extra drop that it provides not the lack of reliability of the other posts.

    Tall riders rejoice!
    There is now a a dropper post that will allow you to get full leg extension for pedalling and fully get out of the way for descending!

  35. #1835
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    I've been super happy with my 150mm Fall Line over the last 2 months, works very well, like the simple quick connect if I want to get another lever and cable to swap it onto another bike. Lack of play was a very nice surprise, as all other posts I've encounter had from some to way too much for my liking. After 2+ months notice such a very slight sideways movement, but really have to try to feel it, probably due for a strip down, clean and rebuild soon.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  36. #1836
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    Where did your bike take you today?
    Mine took me up 1400m to ride back down that far again.
    In all it was a 6.5 hour ride!

    Route finding in the alpine after 4.5 hours of climbing.
    Edit - I should qualify the time frame here. At this point it was 3 hours of climbing and then another 1.5hrs of route finding. We had a few wrong turns and had to backtrack a couple of times!


    Alpine flowers.


    Still some snow to be found. This is at 1750m in elevation.


    Views for miles! This is looking at Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains on the opposite side of the valley.


    "I'm crushing your head!"
    Actually I'm crushing Black Tusk.
    Bonus points for anyone who knows where that quote is from. You might need to be a Canadian of a certain age.
    Last edited by RideEverything; 08-13-2016 at 12:49 PM.

  37. #1837
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    "I'm crushing your head!"
    Actually I'm crushing Black Tusk.
    Bonus points for anyone who knows where that quote is from. You might need to be a Canadian of a certain age.
    The Kids in the Hall
    I'm certain age,not Canadian, but good friend of google
    Nice pics,by the way

  38. #1838
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim0791 View Post
    The Kids in the Hall
    I'm certain age,not Canadian, but good friend of google
    Nice pics,by the way
    LOL!
    There's no guessing anymore with Google!
    KITH were a fantastic Canadian comedy troupe that had a skit show on TV in the late 80's and early 90's.

  39. #1839
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    RE, you are a damn lucky man, you have such amazing places to ride with such vast and un-real scenery to take in. Sounds like you did my kind of ride, can't wait till I can one in such a place again. Love the pics, keep em coming.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados

  40. #1840
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    I am saddened to say, my Prime is being dis-assembled. I am very seriously intending to make my Phantom my heavy bike, with 30mm wide rims and Minions as well as 130mm on the Pike it is doing everything I want it too. And I am building a Nimble 9, Phantom was not light enough for my light bike.

    Quite likely very soon a med with a few character marks will be availbe for anybody desiring. Gotta get a few more rides first though to be certain, lol.

  41. #1841
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    As a side note to my ride yesterday, Up Up and Away ends at Pigs On A Wing.
    Pigs On A Wing and Short Bus are one of the EWS stages for Sunday. Friday a day Saturday are open practice days.

    When we finished UUaA we dropped into PoaW and then SB along with all the top EWS riders!
    It was cool to be riding the gnarly lines as the pros were checking them out. I'm sure they were shaking their heads in disbelief at how we were riding them but I had a feeling of pride as I was shooting past them thinking how hot **** I was!
    Although, it definitely was a misplaced sense of pride!
    Last edited by RideEverything; 08-13-2016 at 07:02 PM.

  42. #1842
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    Do yourself a favour, if you're building a HT, make sure it at least does 650B+, 29+ for even betterer, trust me

    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    I am saddened to say, my Prime is being dis-assembled. I am very seriously intending to make my Phantom my heavy bike, with 30mm wide rims and Minions as well as 130mm on the Pike it is doing everything I want it too. And I am building a Nimble 9, Phantom was not light enough for my light bike.
    I'm really looking forward to seeing the times and watching the hgihlights from Rd6 EWS-Whistler. Watched the preview videos and could not believe the speed the dude was hitting them at,and the stage 5 starting with TOTW and 26 minutes long had me shaking my head, then saw stage1, "only" 16 minutes, but looked so wicked and treacherous. Trails look so fun and amazing, definitely has me itching for getting up there to ride.
    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    As a side note to my ride yesterday, Up Up and Away ends at Pigs On A Wing.
    Pigs On A Wing and Short Bus are one of the EWS stages for Sunday. Friday a day Saturday are open practice days.

    When we finished UUaA we dropped into PoaW and then SB along with all the top EWS riders!
    It was cool to be riding the gnarly lines as the pros were checking them out. I'm sure they were shaking their heads in disbelief at how we were riding them but I had a feeling of pride as I was shooting past them thinking how hot **** I was!
    Although, it definitely was a missed placed sense of pride!
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  43. #1843
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Do yourself a favour, if you're building a HT, make sure it at least does 650B+, 29+ for even betterer, trust me
    It does. Already had thoughts in that direction.

  44. #1844
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    More riding has been done.

    I rode some solidly steep lines.
    What still impresses me with the 29er is the lack of any kind of OTB instances. On both my Prime and Honzo I've yet to eject off the front of my bike.

    I bring this up because of this particular rock face I'm riding here had a solid hole in the transition right at the end of the rock. I bottomed my rim out but the F36 didn't bottom harshly and I still rode away in control.
    I know that if I was riding a smaller wheel size I would have been fully ejected off the bike because the hole would have just swallowed a smaller wheel!

    This picture (angle) really doesn't convey how steep this line is.


    The trail sign says it all!


    I really do enjoy the Prime. However, with how and what I've been riding this summer the newly released Trek Slash and the updated Spesh Enduro 29 have me wondering how much greener the grass is while riding a longer travel slacker 29er is!

    With 29ers finally becoming proper burly bikes I wonder if the Prime will get a big update in the coming year?
    The Prime was before its time and can still run with the best. But a few companies have caught up, and, dare I say, surpassed where the Prime is in this category.

  45. #1845
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I really do enjoy the Prime. However, with how and what I've been riding this summer the newly released Trek Slash and the updated Spesh Enduro 29 have me wondering how much greener the grass is while riding a longer travel slacker 29er is!

    With 29ers finally becoming proper burly bikes I wonder if the Prime will get a big update in the coming year?
    The Prime was before its time and can still run with the best. But a few companies have caught up, and, dare I say, surpassed where the Prime is in this category.
    That was my thinking as well. I rode my pre-production for nearly 5 seasons, and was very happy with it. I was content to keep it for another year with some upgrades, but a few converging circumstances led me to build a new bike. I'm really enjoying the new one (5.5c) but letting go of the Prime was bittersweet. I had some amazing trips and rides with that bike.

  46. #1846
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    This is loosely Prime related only because I was riding my Prime while coaching.

    I coach mtb through the summer. I ride with the same group of kids through the entire summer. I coach/ride with them 2 days a week. One day pedalling and one day bike park.

    I'm stoked with their progression this summer!

    On our last pedal day this week we rode Microclimate. That trail is a solid single black with some double black sections for added measures!

    This guy is 10 years old.


    And, this guy is 9 years old.
    Last edited by RideEverything; 09-01-2016 at 07:04 PM.

  47. #1847
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    Guys.
    Have any of you tried RS shock or even Eleven6 on your Prime?
    Wondering if those could bring any improvement over DBA?

  48. #1848
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    I'm back to riding for myself since my summer work of coaching is finished. The pics of me riding will now resume regularly for the next couple of months!

    I went on a heli bike drop outside of Pemberton last week. Once I get the photos from my friends I'll post up.

    For now you'll have to content yourselves with this little self filmed video and screen shots from today's ride!








    Here's a teaser picture from my heli trip.
    This is just after the hot unload.

  49. #1849
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    I feel this bit of bike nerding deserved it's own post.

    In the last few weeks I've had a minor epiphany. It turns out you do need to deal with the rebound settings on you shock in the same way you deal with spring rate and compression (HSC & LSC).

    As a super tall heavy guy I've always focused on the spring rate and compression settings to get the best out of my bike.
    Recently, though, I found that no matter the knob twiddling on the compression settings I just couldn't dial in the feeling I wanted out of the bike.
    Then the thought struck me. What about the rebound settings!
    I've always "set" my rebound to what I felt appropriate. But never put a lot of thought into it.

    So I've been twiddling the HSR and LSR on the CCDBaCS and... low and behold, the bike suddenly is starting to have that 'je ne sais quoi' ride feel.

    It's funny how you can get so focused on one aspect of suspension settings to the exclusion of everything else.

    The other thing I've noticed is that the stock settings listed on the Cane Creek website are not really all that...

    I guess both Banshee and Cane Creek were looking for a safe middle of the road setting. It would have been nice if they also had two opposite/alternate settings. Say, for aggressive jumpy, droppy, high speed riding and another for more pedally XC style riding.

    Yeah, yeah, if you spend the time you can find those settings. However, I'm a solid bike nerd and I've found that even the CCDBaCS to be almost too much in regards to set up.
    I mean, how long have I had this bike and shock now!? 2 years and I'm still sorting out my ride quality with this shock!

    Anyway, I thought I'd share my thoughts on what I've been thinking/trying.

    /ramble

  50. #1850
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    Ride

    You,'re not alone in here.
    Sometimes i get nerwous when trying to have great teip and this feeling catch me and i start to dial with knobs.
    Tryiong to ride same tracks over and over again with hope that sweet spot is just behind next turn.
    For me it's natural that one part if settings would be more XC oriented and second more trail oriented as not many of us live in forest next to lift.
    This is why sharing settings we all tried would be so helpfull, unfortunetely CC longue is very llimited when speaking of Prime.

  51. #1851
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    When we choose shock settings for base tune on the cane creek shocks, we work with them to pick a 'best fit' setup. The base tune certainly is not the tune I expect most people to ride, it's just a starting point to start experiementing from. Remember we have to have one setting to suggest to cautious riders who weigh 50kg up to gressive fast riders who weigh 100kg+. It's impossible to have a base tune that is optimal for everyone.

    If you follow the cane creek tuning manual and their new app, it takes a little work to dial in, but you'll get there. But also, don't expect a perfect tune for fast flowy single track to be optimal for rough technical steeps. I suggest you find a trail that is kind of an average for what you ride and tune to that trail. then find a smooth trail and find out what you have to tweak to get what you want on that, and a rough trail and do the same and take note of what you changed. Then if you know you are going to be ridding for a few days on supper rough stuff you can make the adjustments you know work, and likewise for super smooth flowy stuff.

    Also... one thing most people overlook is the 5th adjustment on a cane creek, the volume. Personally this is the thing I dial in first from base tune... if I want it more plus to start and have good ramp up, I just add in a spacer or 2, and vice versa. Getting the volume (progression) of the shock right for your bodyweight and riding style is critical.

    So, yeah, it takes a little work, but I got my shock setup nicely in about 2 hours including changing the volume slightly. Is time well spent when you get a new shock.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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    Banshee Blog

  52. #1852
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    Keith and RE are absolutely right, you need to adjust your suspension constantly if you're riding different types of trails and I was reminded of this last week in Crested Butte - had the sus dialed for rough and fast, had to slow the rebound way down for the smooth bike park trails. Thinking when I pick up my MY17 Phantom that I'll maybe go with a shock with more tuning options than my X-Fusion 02 RCX, doesn't seem to have enough rebound range for some trails.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  53. #1853
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    Here's a little vid I put together from all my helicopter clips from my helibike drop recently.


  54. #1854
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    I love those Astars, used to do a boat load of aerial photography from them. What altitude did they take you up to and what was the max they flew at? Max we ever did in a Max Altitude test was 11,000ft IIRC.

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Here's a little vid I put together from all my helicopter clips from my helibike drop recently.

    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados

  55. #1855
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I love those Astars, used to do a boat load of aerial photography from them. What altitude did they take you up to and what was the max they flew at? Max we ever did in a Max Altitude test was 11,000ft IIRC.
    Where we put down was 2141m (7024ft) in elevation. So, a few hundred metres higher than that I guess.
    Flight time was quite short, about 7 minutes. From where we picked up in the valley it was almost a direct flight straight up the face of the mountain to where we were dropped off.

    It was so much fun! Even if the trail ride were to suck, which it didn't at all, it still would have been sweet! I mean, how often do you get to do a helicopter shuttle with your bike!
    Thankfully the trail ride after the drop off was kickass! It was about a 1900m (6200ft) descent with only 155m of climbing total spread out over the entirety of the ride.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_112010.jpg  


  56. #1856
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    Here's some more pictures from my heli drop trip.
    Unfortunately, my friends aren't as "on it" when it comes to sharing photos so I don't have any pictures of me riding.

    Here I am in the middle of the hot unload.


    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_112539.jpg

    This is looking down over the opposite side of where we started riding from.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_113135.jpg

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_114029.jpg

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_120243.jpg

    This is one of the meadows near Tenquille Lake.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_133505.jpg

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_141145.jpg

    Looking down onto Pemberton Meadows.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_141826.jpg

    Looking back up at the mountains we just descended from.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20160910_145803.jpg

    This is a screen cap of my gps track from Google Earth of the route we rode.
    Last edited by RideEverything; 09-23-2016 at 09:22 PM.

  57. #1857
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    I was out enjoying some fresh loam today.



    And taking in the view.


  58. #1858
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    The bike riding season might be over in Whistler!

    At the far end of this picture the water was well over my hubs!



  59. #1859
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    Guys
    I need help with Angleset.

    Jenson is publishing 2 versions of ZS44

    Cane Creek Angleset ZS44 > Components > Headsets > Complete Headsets | Jenson USA
    BAA0199K and BAA0198K

    Can anyone advise the difference and correct one for Prime ?

  60. #1860
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    I just built up an XL '16 Prime I got on sale and I actually wanted the '16 model so I could use parts from another bike and I have to say, I'm really impressed with how balanced of a bike it is. I also have a '16 Canfield Riot and I think I kinda like the Prime more. The Prime is definitely stiffer, which is good for my yeti stature. You can say what you like about short chain stays but there's something about the Prime that felt familiar and balanced right from the very first ride. I also ride Knollys and it's nice having a 29er that feels as solid as my smaller wheeled Knollys.

  61. #1861
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    Glad to hear it's working out good for ya. For taller riders, a stay in the mid-17s works pretty well. Not sure I would shorten mine if I could.
    2016 Banshee Prime, 6-speed

  62. #1862
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    Here is mine i built a few weeks back. Going well!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Production Prime Photo/Build thread-image_366463488.jpg  


  63. #1863
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    Still loving my '14 Prime, now with bigger shoes.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-banshee-1.jpgProduction Prime Photo/Build thread-banshee-2.jpg
    When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race. ~H.G. Wells

  64. #1864
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    Buddy has been thinking about buying a 17' when they release. Can anyone describe the rear suspension feel and / or compare it to the feeling of another bike.

    Looking for something that is supple off the top but plush on big hits.
    all while keeping a playful bike. Do you think the prime has that abilit ?

  65. #1865
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    Can anyone advise which Angleset ahould i choose for '14 Prime.
    CUrrently use ZS44/56 kit but now wanted to slacker the HA by 1deg.
    CC site lists ZS44/EC56 as the only which fits tapared steered tube and tapered frame (1,5-1 1/8).

    Can use ZS/EC or it must be ZS/ZS ?

  66. #1866
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    I currently use EC lower cup on my Prime, so it should be good for angleset as well.
    Let me know how it works, l'm also interested.

  67. #1867
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    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    Can anyone advise which Angleset ahould i choose for '14 Prime.
    CUrrently use ZS44/56 kit but now wanted to slacker the HA by 1deg.
    CC site lists ZS44/EC56 as the only which fits tapared steered tube and tapered frame (1,5-1 1/8).

    Can use ZS/EC or it must be ZS/ZS ?
    You can use ZS/EC, ZS/ZS, EC/ZS and EC/EC. But: if you switch from your current ZS/ZS to a headset with an EC lower you will have 1° slacker head angle from the angle set and an additional slacker head angle coming from the longer axle 2 crown length because of the height of the EC cup (your fork will be longer). You have to make sure your fork steerer tube is long enough for your spacers and stem. If you have a headset with an EC upper you will have to use less spacers or your stem will be going up. Same here: Make sure your fork steerer tube is long enough.

    CC angle sets are very expensive... I'm really happy with an angleset from Works Components:

    Works Components - Angle Headsets to fit Most Frame Types & CNC Bicycle Components Proudly Made in the UK

  68. #1868
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    No, not quite, the HTA will slacken a bit, maybe .4 degrees, but no way 1 degree for a stack increase of about 10-12mm. Rest of the info is spot on. So with a -1 angleset and the external cup you'll actually slacken the bike out by about 1.4 degrees. A cheaper alternative might be to just extend travel on your fork if it has that option, but then you will also raise the BB some, but you'll also do this with the external cup.
    Quote Originally Posted by jack_steel View Post
    You can use ZS/EC, ZS/ZS, EC/ZS and EC/EC. But: if you switch from your current ZS/ZS to a headset with an EC lower you will have 1° slacker head angle from the angle set and an additional slacker head angle coming from the longer axle 2 crown length because of the height of the EC cup (your fork will be longer). You have to make sure your fork steerer tube is long enough for your spacers and stem. If you have a headset with an EC upper you will have to use less spacers or your stem will be going up. Same here: Make sure your fork steerer tube is long enough.

    CC angle sets are very expensive... I'm really happy with an angleset from Works Components:

    Works Components - Angle Headsets to fit Most Frame Types & CNC Bicycle Components Proudly Made in the UK
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  69. #1869
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    No, not quite, the HTA will slacken a bit, maybe .4 degrees, but no way 1 degree for a stack increase of about 10-12mm. Rest of the info is spot on. So with a -1 angleset and the external cup you'll actually slacken the bike out by about 1.4 degrees. A cheaper alternative might be to just extend travel on your fork if it has that option, but then you will also raise the BB some, but you'll also do this with the external cup.
    That's exactly what I meant. He mentioned a 1 degree angleset and because of this he will slacken the head angle by 1 degree because of the angleset and an additional slackening because of the EC cup. 0.4 degree is a realistic value by the way. If you want to know it exactly, just put the numbers in one of the geometry calculators online.

  70. #1870
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    Ok. ZS/EC ordered. My fork was already 160 so the only way was to add AngleSet. As soon as it will be installed i'll share numbers.

  71. #1871
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    Holy $hit, that is going to be slack, by my calcs with the 160mm fork, EC and angleset, I'm saying 65* Great when pointed down the steep stuff, not sure how nice it'll play climbing though

    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    Ok. ZS/EC ordered. My fork was already 160 so the only way was to add AngleSet. As soon as it will be installed i'll share numbers.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  72. #1872
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Holy $hit, that is going to be slack, by my calcs with the 160mm fork, EC and angleset, I'm saying 65* Great when pointed down the steep stuff, not sure how nice it'll play climbing though
    You're right. I expect somewhere ~65 but my type of riding require confidence on descents and climbing, those are rether smooth long roads, when You discus with mates, hang helmet on bars and get sunshine
    Just behind the hill the story begins.

  73. #1873
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    Let us know how it works out. One concern I might have would be that with the 160 fork and EC lower cup, the BB height would be higher than you might want. Although the angleset does lower it a tad, so might be ok. You may also want to consider running offset shock bushings. They don't do a whole lot, but would lower the BB and slacken the HA a bit.

    Sounds like a 2017 frame which is 1 degree slacker than a 2014 and has a slightly lower BB would be right up your alley (if you have some extra $$ hanging around lol).

    I'm running a 2016 frame which is 1/2 degree slacker than the 2013 - 2015s, 150 fork, and one offset shock bushing. I need to measure the HTA, but I'm not seeing any significant negative effects of it being too slack. There is a bit of fork flop at low speeds, and I do have to be aware to keep my weight forward on loose corners, but otherwise it's all goodness.
    2016 Banshee Prime, 6-speed

  74. #1874
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Let us know how it works out. One concern I might have would be that with the 160 fork and EC lower cup, the BB height would be higher than you might want. Although the angleset does lower it a tad, so might be ok. You may also want to consider running offset shock bushings. They don't do a whole lot, but would lower the BB and slacken the HA a bit.

    Sounds like a 2017 frame which is 1 degree slacker than a 2014 and has a slightly lower BB would be right up your alley (if you have some extra $$ hanging around lol).

    I'm running a 2016 frame which is 1/2 degree slacker than the 2013 - 2015s, 150 fork, and one offset shock bushing. I need to measure the HTA, but I'm not seeing any significant negative effects of it being too slack. There is a bit of fork flop at low speeds, and I do have to be aware to keep my weight forward on loose corners, but otherwise it's all goodness.
    And first ride is done.
    HA is ~64,5deg so quite slack.
    Front wheel is much up front therfore stability on descents and confidence increased much.
    What is sacrificed are the steepest climbs, those where You stand on pedals, and almost stay in one place despite pedaling.
    In those moments bike seems to loose the track a bit, wheel is not sticked to the ground.
    Will share next thoughts asap.

  75. #1875
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    Thanks for the initial report Placek. Wow, 64.5, that's pretty wild!

    As it turns out I think I am going to do this too. I don't need it for Texas, but my wife just booked us a trip to Whistler for July. I am bringing the Prime of course. Just due to the sheer speeds there I think I would like the extra security while I am holding on for dear life. I am running a 150 Pike, and have a 160 air sleeve if I decide to install it.
    2016 Banshee Prime, 6-speed

  76. #1876
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    Bummer, the Works 44/56 headsets are not available until 8/5 - too late for me. Oddly they have a 44/55. I'd really rather install headcups instead of dealing with Cane Creek gimbles and possible creaking, but looks like that is my only option.
    2016 Banshee Prime, 6-speed

  77. #1877
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Bummer, the Works 44/56 headsets are not available until 8/5 - too late for me. Oddly they have a 44/55. I'd really rather install headcups instead of dealing with Cane Creek gimbles and possible creaking, but looks like that is my only option.
    You could try that one:
    Slackerizer Angle Headset - 2 Degree - Superstar Components

  78. #1878
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack_steel View Post
    Thank you - I wasn't aware of that option. They've got the ZS56 lower cup option for tapered steerers in stock and ready to go. Now I just need to figure out if I'm up for a 2 degree change in HTA. I've got a 7.5x2 shock in the garage, so might try bolting that on and pedaling the bike around a bit.
    2016 Banshee Prime, 6-speed

  79. #1879
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    This sexy beast had to get out in the sun and pose for a photo!

    #bikeporn


    No major changes for this season. Just a couple of tweaks.
    I've bumped the 36 up to 160mm from 150mm. And I've put a 2.5 DHF on up front. The 2.5 size is like the mythical unicorn! It's almost impossible to find. I saw this one in my LBS and grabbed it quick. And, damn, are they expensive!

    A funny story about my fork travel (Or a story highlighting how oblivious I can be!).
    It turns out the F34 that originally came on my Prime was set to 150mm all along. I had always assumed that it was at 140mm. That would explain why when I put on the F36 150mm there wasn't a big change in the angles of the front end. There was a slight slackening but nothing major.
    How I discovered this was just recently when I swapped the 34 back onto my Honzo after having the 36 on there for the Fall. I was holding both forks side by side and noticed that they both had the same amount of stanchion exposed. I got out the tape measure and, lo and behold, the 34 is set to 150mm!

    I had been thinking for a while to bump up the travel on the 36. So when I brought it into Vorsprung for a service I asked them to adjust the travel.
    It's only a 10mm difference. But with the new bigger tire up front (I'm still running a 2.3 DHRII out back) and the extra travel it definitely feels and looks more slack.

    I can't wait to get out for a ride on this sexy machine to see how it feels with this change! It'll be a bit be before that happens as I'm riding my hardtail for the first part of the season to hone my skills.

  80. #1880
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    My SO and I out for a ride a few days back.

    #loudhubssavelives





  81. #1881
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    Sweet dude. I am so down with getting out there in July!
    2016 Banshee Prime, 6-speed

  82. #1882
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    Has anyone ever short shocked a 2014 Banshee Prime? I like the idea of a lower bb, slacker headangle and short travel for more xc oriented riding . i have a rune for the gnar days and a dh bike for park.

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