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  1. #1501
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    Well
    After seaching mtbr and other forums it seems like XL is my best fit.
    - grown from XC background (push on stability on uphills)
    - oriented on short stem
    - quite big inseam

    Reg CC it also looks like those two differ only in oil reservoir (the piggy one) which is usefull for hevier riders or truerly aggressive riding style and weight.
    Rest like adjustments and culture of work are the same.

  2. #1502
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    Is that inseam right Placek, 40 inches? If so I'd definitely say you'd be wanting the XL just to be able to have enough post securely in the frame. On the Large Phantom which has the same ST measurement as the Large Prime with a 35.25" inseam I have to run a 410mm post and I'm close to minimum insertion, so with an inseam over 4" longer than mine, you'd need a 460mm+ post.

    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    Guys

    As there is a big change i will start to build Prime, i have some questions before frame order.

    As I'm 6,25 and 40 Inseam - almost 90% sure XL would fit me best ? Have ridden L only and managed to hit end of bars twice.
    Secondly:

    I see majority of builds is made based on CCDB. Is there anything wrong going with CCI (CS) - as im 185lbs geared up and prefer rather rocky/rooty than jumpy terrain. (do i loose anything by going with CCDBI, any difference in work,sensitivity ? )
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  3. #1503
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    Made my measurements once again - my bad , it's 87cm (34,2 in).
    My calculations in xls were corrupted.
    Still think should stay with XL - shouldn't i ?

  4. #1504
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    Welcome to the club! Sounds to me like you could go either way. I'm 6'2", don't know my exact inseam but my legs are slightly on the short side for my height. And I've got long arms. I'm on an XL and it fits like a glove, first bike in my life that was long enough.

    For the high-speed riding you do, I personally would size up for stability. On the other hand, a lot of guys ride big rock terrain and like to size down as it makes the bike easier to handle in tight situations and easier to get weight transfer on extreme steeps.

    Having access to a large frame is a plus, hopefully you will be able to use that as a point of reference to help in your decision, knowing that you can move the seat and switch out stems.

    Have you decided which dropouts to go with? I went with 150 dropouts and a dedicated 150 hub / wheel to take full advantage of this frame. However you can always change it later.

  5. #1505
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    I think XL woul be fine.
    As mentioned L was very nimble but had moments when i touched the bar end (780mm) with my knee - those very twisty slow climbs.
    Dropouts will be 142 as as start - w good compromise for wight and stiffness - to my riding needs 150mm is just too much.

  6. #1506
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    Agreed 150 is not needed, and would be a significant expense if you have to build a wheel.

    You might look into it at some point in the future though. In my case there is not a significant weight penalty as the 150 ztr hub was only 20g more than the 142 hub. Benefits are that 150 give you a better chainline, and you can build the rear wheel dishless or closer to dishless and that makes the wheel stiffer and stronger.

    If you ever go 1x11, the chainline benefit will probably be even greater as the biggest cog is even further in toward the wheel.

  7. #1507
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    I see Your point.
    Moreover i'm going to 1x11 from beggining however my intention was to have also DT Hubs (240 or 350 with straight pull spokes) - this excludes 150 diameter.

  8. #1508
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    Well, going by your "re-calculation", you're my height with a 1" shorter inseam, so I'd say you can go either way depending on what length stem you want to run, but I'd most likely say get the XL to run a shorter stem. I ride the Large Phantom, but it's Reach is longer than the Large Prime by 1cm, so I can run a 65mm stem and 785mm bar and have my perfect fit with quite a bit of post showing (using a 410mm, 350mm is too short) so would guess with the XL Prime's 472mm reach you could run a <50mm stem and wide bar.

    As to what rear axle spacing, I'd highly suggest the 150mm x 12mm option to build a much stronger and less dished wheel, which will then also give a better chainline as JACKL said. Image attached showing chainline running a 9spd 3x crank, running 2 rings in the granny and middle position and full 9spd cassette - I ran a SS/Trials hubs for years with 6 cogs to achieve the same result, but with limited gearing option.


    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    Made my measurements once again - my bad , it's 87cm (34,2 in).
    My calculations in xls were corrupted.
    Still think should stay with XL - shouldn't i ?
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-150mm-rear.jpg
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  9. #1509
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    LyNx
    Thanks - would go with XL.

    ...@ reg driveterrain
    You started me to seriously consider some chnges to my future wheels.

    As i'm not specialist in this area however plan to build strong but still resonably light AM wheels which would be my primary ones.
    My aim is to have 1x11 Shimano shifting set .

    So 150x12:
    Should be easier to dish the wheel
    Better Chainline
    Stronger ovrall

    So those are real benefits over 142 or still 142 is also an option however more on the limit ?

  10. #1510
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    One more tech question.

    The headset:
    Can You confirm this one would be fine for PRIME together with tapared PIKE:
    Cane Creek 40 ZS44/56 Tapered Headset > Components > Handlebars, Headsets and Saddles > Headsets | Jenson USA
    ??

  11. #1511
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    That headset will work just fine.

  12. #1512
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    Yup, as Colin said,, that's just the one you're looking for. After all your diligent research on your new bike, will be very interested to follow your thoughts once you get it all built and ridden some.

    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    One more tech question.

    The headset:
    Can You confirm this one would be fine for PRIME together with tapared PIKE:
    Cane Creek 40 ZS44/56 Tapered Headset > Components > Handlebars, Headsets and Saddles > Headsets | Jenson USA
    ??
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  13. #1513
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    Believe me or not
    This is my sense of life at the moment, all this planning, researching, price comparing and finally the day of build.
    As far as i know the frame should be at my home around end of march so still some days to get a proper set.
    Definitely will share my thoughts however only compared to owned Anthem and some rides on E29.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Yup, as Colin said,, that's just the one you're looking for. After all your diligent research on your new bike, will be very interested to follow your thoughts once you get it all built and ridden some.

  14. #1514
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    Medium Prime
    Fox 36 Talas 160
    Cane Creek DB inline with RWC needle bearings
    X1/XX1 28t
    Shimano SLX brakes (203/180)
    Roval Fatties SL
    Minions DHF 2.5
    KS i900r
    Diety compound pedals





    Does anyone know if a Surly Dirt Wizard 29 3.0 would fit?

  15. #1515
    live long and huck
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    Nice build, jb, nice terrain.
    Low and slack.

  16. #1516
    AOK
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post

    Does anyone know if a Surly Dirt Wizard 29 3.0 would fit?
    B+ PRIME (or Phantom). Let's talk about it.

    Maybe. I got a Knard to fit in my Phantom with 650b dropouts.

    Nice lookin' Prime. Enjoy!

  17. #1517
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    Um JB, how tall are you? Ask as you have a setback post and the saddle slammed all the way back on the rails, and the drop outs in the slack setting, wondering if Medium is the right size for you or if it's too small and you're trying to use a short stem and compensating by pushing the saddle back to give room in the cockpit.

    Other than that agree, nice build and nice terrain to ride it on.

    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    Medium Prime
    Fox 36 Talas 160
    Cane Creek DB inline with RWC needle bearings
    X1/XX1 28t
    Shimano SLX brakes (203/180)
    Roval Fatties SL
    Minions DHF 2.5
    KS i900r
    Diety compound pedals



    Does anyone know if a Surly Dirt Wizard 29 3.0 would fit?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  18. #1518
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    He's "medium" sized if I remember correctly. I'm thinking 5'8 ish. I've sold him 2 frames in the past.

  19. #1519
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    Yep, I'm short.

    I didn't realize the seat had slid back a bit, the seat clamp bolt was not tight enough.

    I'm getting the 650b dropouts, anyone know where to get a pair of Surly Dirt Wizard 29+ tires?
    Last edited by jbsocal; 03-08-2015 at 03:43 AM.

  20. #1520
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    Ah OK, well then that easily explains it

    As to the DW, good luck finding them about the place, anywhere I've looked that lists them , lists them as out of stock, i.e. they haven't gotten them in yet. I've got my 650B drop outs for my Phantom and the Dually45/NP wheels are built, but don't have the 142 end caps yet
    Have ridden them on the Monkey with a 2.35" Ikon on the back and a 29+ test tyre upfront and they've been awesome, just switched them over to the Phantom yesterday because right now the hands can't take the beating the rigid gives, but swapped the front to a 2.4" Chunky Monkey, will be testing them out today and this week like this. What wheels, well really rims, do you plan on using with your 29+ setup?

    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    Yep, I'm short.

    I didn't realize the seat had slid back a bit, the seat clamp bolt was not tight enough.

    I'm getting the 650b dropouts, anyone know where to get a pair of Surly Dirt Wizard 29+ tires?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  21. #1521
    AOK
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    Yep, I'm short.

    I didn't realize the seat had slid back a bit, the seat clamp bolt was not tight enough.

    I'm getting the 650b dropouts, anyone know where to get a pair of Surly Dirt Wizard 29+ tires?
    I don't think the dirt wizards are available yet. Although I think they are supposed to be out this spring.

  22. #1522
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    I don't think the dirt wizards are available yet. Although I think they are supposed to be out this spring.
    I saw them listed on Surly's site, so I thought they might be available:

    Wheels | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes

    I have a set of 941's (41 mm) and a set of Roval Fatties (35 mm), I probably will try them on the Fatties...looks like the Fox 36 might have enough clearance.

    The tread looks pretty good:

    http://youtu.be/TeZxw5cZrPA

  23. #1523
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    Personally I'd go for the wider rim to run any 29+ tyres, have Dually45's and mine look just about right on the 45mm width, think 35mm would round the progile tooo much and not give enough sidewall support.

    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    I saw them listed on Surly's site, so I thought they might be available:

    Wheels | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes

    I have a set of 941's (41 mm) and a set of Roval Fatties (35 mm), I probably will try them on the Fatties...looks like the Fox 36 might have enough clearance.

    The tread looks pretty good:

    http://youtu.be/TeZxw5cZrPA
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  24. #1524
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Personally I'd go for the wider rim to run any 29+ tyres, have Dually45's and mine look just about right on the 45mm width, think 35mm would round the progile tooo much and not give enough sidewall support.
    I ordered a pair of Innova's...not sure if the Dirt Wizards will be available in April.

    Since I'm experimenting and don't know if I will like the 3.0's, I'm just going to use wheels that I have (got the 650B dropouts for $91 from Jenson's).

    I will love it if my discounted $799 Prime frame turns out to also be a great 29+ frame.

    Then I might have a wheel set built with 45 mm rims.

  25. #1525
    AOK
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    Good call on the Innovas. Much less expensive than other options. I am running one as a front on my Krampus and it works well. It was a pain to get seated tubeless the first time, but no issues since. You will probably want to mount it with a tube for a day or two before trying tubeless. That is what I had to do.

    It is actually a good thing that the Innova is slightly narrower than the Knard / Chupacabra since it will give you a little extra room in the Prime.

  26. #1526
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    Can't say I've heard anything bad about them, especially for the price.Only thing as AOK says is they;re not quite true to size, but that would be a good thing to give a bit more clearance for mud/debris. Personally I don't think I'm going to like 29+ on the Phantom, but will still give it a go once I get my 142 end caps, do love 29+ on the rigid.

    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    I ordered a pair of Innova's...not sure if the Dirt Wizards will be available in April.

    Since I'm experimenting and don't know if I will like the 3.0's, I'm just going to use wheels that I have (got the 650B dropouts for $91 from Jenson's).

    I will love it if my discounted $799 Prime frame turns out to also be a great 29+ frame.

    Then I might have a wheel set built with 45 mm rims.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  27. #1527
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    I ordered a pair of Innova's...not sure if the Dirt Wizards will be available in April.

    Since I'm experimenting and don't know if I will like the 3.0's, I'm just going to use wheels that I have (got the 650B dropouts for $91 from Jenson's).

    I will love it if my discounted $799 Prime frame turns out to also be a great 29+ frame.

    Then I might have a wheel set built with 45 mm rims.
    $799 Prime frame?! Where can one find such a deal?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  28. #1528
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABL guitars View Post
    $799 Prime frame?! Where can one find such a deal?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Bikewagon was selling them around Christmas time (no shock)...I checked and they are no longer available (they also had them listed on eBay, which is how I found out about them).

    I bought mine directly from the Bikewagon web site.

    2013 Banshee Prime Full Suspension 29er MTB Frame 12x142mm Medium Raw No Shock | eBay

    This is one of the best deals I found...got a New 2015 Fox 36 Talas 29 160 mm For $750 + $40 shipping also from ebay...still not as good as the deals I got from Colin+M for my Prime prototype and PBJ

  29. #1529
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    Thanks. It's sad.. I dream to build a Prime for a long time, but can't afford to buy a new frame. And there's no any dealer somewhere near my location. If someone is going to sell a large size frame for some nice price, please tell me! Especially interested in raw or yellow finish


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  30. #1530
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    If there are no dealers in your are, then contact Banshee directly, that's what I have had to do to get mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by ABL guitars View Post
    Thanks. It's sad.. I dream to build a Prime for a long time, but can't afford to buy a new frame. And there's no any dealer somewhere near my location. If someone is going to sell a large size frame for some nice price, please tell me! Especially interested in raw or yellow finish


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  31. #1531
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABL guitars View Post
    Thanks. It's sad.. I dream to build a Prime for a long time, but can't afford to buy a new frame. And there's no any dealer somewhere near my location. If someone is going to sell a large size frame for some nice price, please tell me! Especially interested in raw or yellow finish


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've seen Large Prime frames for sale...

    Keep checking the classifieds on mtbr.com, pinkbike, and ebay (you can setup an ebay search to notify you of any new listings - search Banshee Prime - this is how I found mine).

    I was going to build up a discounted Intense Carbine 29 until I found out I could only put a 2.4 tire on the rear, then I saw the great deal on the Prime frame, now it looks like 29+ will fit, even better.

    I still have a Prime Prototype frame, but it is a medium.

  32. #1532
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    More Pics and some Problems!

    BIGBIKE littlebike
    A pic from when I was out for ride with my daughter a couple of weeks ago.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20150226_095259.jpg

    From today's ride.
    A mountain bike in the mountains! Ha!
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p3180002.jpg

    Another pic from today's ride.
    A pretty damn good #selfie if I do say so myself!
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p3180006.jpg


    It would seem I've run into some parts/mechanical issues.

    First, I just noticed on today's ride that at the top shock mount that the shock has pushed over to the left side of the spacers on the bolt. It looks as though a rubber washer has pushed out from the eyelet. I'm going to take it apart when I have time in the next couple of days to see what is actually going on.

    This brings me to my second issue, my rear hub. I have an eThirteen LG1+ rear hub and the issue is that the freehub sticks occasionally while I'm coasting/not pedalling. This causes the cassette to to roll forward with the wheel/hub creating a loose chain that slaps all over the place. It also could cause the chain to drop off of the chainring but that hasn't happened... yet.
    I've checked the axle bolts and how tight and/or loose they are done up. I've pulled apart the rear hub and greased everything that could be greased as well as tightened and loosened the bearing preload cap and freehub lockring. And, I've re-installed the dropouts with the axle installed to make sure they are aligned properly on the frame.
    The problem just won't go away!
    I know that there is at least one other Prime owner here that is running these hubs (hopefully he's still on the boards). Have you had this problem with the rear hub? If so what did you do to fix it?

    My third issue, which may be related to the first or the second, is the lower pivot at the chainstay junction keeps coming loose. I am wondering if the alignment being off at the shock or the rear hub has something to do with the constant loosening of this pivot bolt.

    I have a few solutions that may fix some or all of these issues.

    For the rear hub I've order a Maxle because the the amount of torque required seems to be ridiculously low. When I tighten the axle and locking bolt to the recommended torque the axle always backs out making the wheel loose and the lock bolt a freaking ***** to loosen! But when I snug the axle and locking bolt up a bit beyond torque I get the issue I've described above like mad on the hub regardless of how loose or tight I've set the bearing preload on the hub.
    I'm hoping that the Maxle will solve this problem... maybe?

    As for the pivot bolt I'm going to try some sort of locktight or plumbers tape and see if that solves my problem.

    And, for the CCDBa bushing/washer issue, I'm not sure because I haven't pulled it apart yet. I guess I'll just have to wait and see.


    Anyway, if anyone has had any of these problems or something similar I'm all ears as to what solutions you've tried.

    I guess the honeymoon is over with this bike! It was awfully short!
    I've only had about 2.5 months riding time on the bike so far. One would think that I could've made it at least until the middle of the this coming summer before any issues showed up. By that point I'd be way more accepting of the problems because I would've been hammering on this bike for a while at that point.

  33. #1533
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    Is this business time on your bike selfie? One of my favorite in Whis for sure!

  34. #1534
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregmazo View Post
    Is this business time on your bike selfie? One of my favorite in Whis for sure!
    Yep. That is on It's Business Time.
    It's one of my local loops as I live in the area of this trail.
    As for the #selfie part I was just trying to be funny. I set my point and shoot camera up on the timer shot setting and tried to make this shot happen. Luck was with me this ride as I only had to try 3 times for this result!

  35. #1535
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    So...

    I had a look at my upper shock bolt issue. I took the bolt out and had look at the spacers/washers and I've concluded that the problem has occurred because of the loosening pivot bolt at the chainstay on the non-drive side.
    The rubber washer at the shock mounting was squished out because of the non-alignment created by the loose pivot. Which, in turn, caused the shock eyelet to push to the left squishing the rubber washer out of place and creating space for the shock at the upper eyelet to move around and be out of alignment.

    I swapped the spacers and rubber washers to opposite sides on the bolt at the upper shock mount and put plumbers tape on the pivot bolt and tightened it down. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

    For my rear hub problem I think I'm going to have to pull the cassette off again and fiddle with the tightness of the freehub body lockring. I have a feeling that the tension that I applied to it just wasn't enough the last time I adjusted it.


    I love being a home mechanic because I learn so much from sorting mine and my friends bikes out. But when it comes to a practically brand new bike I expect to not to have to sort these kinds of issues out until I've ridden the shit out of the bike!

  36. #1536
    FM
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    You should be using blue locktite on the pivot bolts- and the shock bolts too. Locktite & torque wrench are your friends. Over-tightening can damage the bearings.

  37. #1537
    live long and huck
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    Only trouble I've had with my LG1+ rear hub is when the first generation axle sleeve broke. e*thirteen stepped right up and 2 day delivered to me a new revision axle kit, better than new. I'm wondering if the problem is right there in your "freehub body locking ring." Setting the bearing preload is a tiny bit on the meticulous side, it's clearly covered in your manual. It is also available online on the e*thirteen website. I'm betting yours is too tight.

    Check your rear axle and see if there is ANY grease in the thread in the drop out or in the end of the locking screw. In fact, degrease both threads. I had a similar issue, always loosening. Since I degreased I was able to use listed torque and have had zero issues.
    Low and slack.

  38. #1538
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    You should be using blue locktite on the pivot bolts- and the shock bolts too. Locktite & torque wrench are your friends. Over-tightening can damage the bearings.
    Don't use lock-tite on that aluminum rear axle though, especially not on the light weight locking screw. You'll hate yourself if you do.
    Low and slack.

  39. #1539
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    You should be using blue locktite on the pivot bolts- and the shock bolts too. Locktite & torque wrench are your friends. Over-tightening can damage the bearings.
    When I pulled the bolt out there was already a spot of blue locktite on it. So, I thought because that wasn't really working I'd wrap some plumbers tape on. I guess I'll see if it works.
    I'm also aware that I shouldn't hamfistedly over-tighten the crap out of my bolts. I don't have a torque wrench but I feel confident in my limited abilities not to go crazy in tightening the bolts on my bikes!


    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Only trouble I've had with my LG1+ rear hub is when the first generation axle sleeve broke. e*thirteen stepped right up and 2 day delivered to me a new revision axle kit, better than new. I'm wondering if the problem is right there in your "freehub body locking ring." Setting the bearing preload is a tiny bit on the meticulous side, it's clearly covered in your manual. It is also available online on the e*thirteen website. I'm betting yours is too tight.

    Check your rear axle and see if there is ANY grease in the thread in the drop out or in the end of the locking screw. In fact, degrease both threads. I had a similar issue, always loosening. Since I degreased I was able to use listed torque and have had zero issues.
    Meticulous is definitely the word!

    Oh, and, I've scoured the eThirteen site and carefully scrutinized the manual that came with my hubs so that I could follow the directions on setting my hub up properly. There wasn't a torque value to be found! You must HAND tighten the bearing preload cap and tighten the freehub body lockring a quarter turn past "snug"! The word snug is actually used in the manual!!
    I've done all that and then some. I've gone ever so slightly tighter and ever so incrementally looser. And, then I have to factor in how fractionally tighter or looser I'll do up the axle and its locking bolt to make sure the hub issue hopefully disappears! What a f--king headache!!
    Currently the freehub lockring is on the "smidge" too loose before the full quarter turn past "snug". My plan is to take the cassette off and tighten it up to a quarter past "snug" and then play the hair past or slightly before snug game on the axle and locking bolt!!

    I did lightly grease all of the threading on the axle and lock bolt because when I received the frame the threads were soooo dry that they made a terrible sound when being snugged up. As well as making it extremely difficult to get the axle tight enough to have the wheel actually not be loose in the frame and then be able to undo the bolt and axle when I needed to remove the wheel.
    Maybe that is part of the issue now? That tiny bit of grease.
    If it is, what a f--king joke!
    I should be able to snug the axle up firmly but not exceedingly so and not have to worry if I've over or under torqued the axle. I mean, who carries a torque wrench with them on the trail so that they can make sure that their axle is at the exact Nm torque when they've reinstalled their wheel after an mechanical or flat?!


    I really should just spend the money and get a proper torque wrench then I could fully stop all the armchair enginerd conjecture as to whether I think I'm tightening everything up to the right spec!
    Then I could also use real numbers to lambast all the suggestions I solicit on the forums!! Ha!! SCIENCE!!

    Anyway, thanks for all the help!

  40. #1540
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    I had the same "tiny bit of grease" thought for my axle, same results as you. Like I said, I completely degreased, self-loosening problem solved, and also no troubles getting it apart for routine maintenance.

    As for the torque wrench, it's not so much a matter of "ham fisted over tightening", as just tightening it the way it was engineered to be tightened. All fasteners stretch a bit when you tighten them, and the teeth can bend around a bit, the bigger round they are the more torque this takes. If you under tighten, they do not stretch and move enough, over tightening can stretch them beyond their elastic limit which wont allow them to return to normal. The right torque kind of "locks" everything in, gives a sort of self locking grip through stretching/bending/friction.

    Teflon plumbers tape was the worst thing that you could have put on that pivot bolt, teflon is slippery. Clean all of that crap out of there, probably gonna take some degreaser and a tooth brush. Reapply a couple drops of blue loc-tite, you should be good to go.

    Your hub, I don't know, I have zero troubles with mine, besides the above mentioned axle.
    Low and slack.

  41. #1541
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    I use anti-seize grease from the auto-parts store (the silvery metallic stuff) on the axle threads and lock bolt, and have had zero issues with loosening.

    Not a fan of running the axle threads dry. If I wasn't using anti-seize, I'd run threadlocker, medium or low-strength.

    Regarding the hub, I'd check the bearings. I'm not familiar with E13 hubs, but I've had a few hubs where the bearing starts losing structural integrity. So on the stand the wheel spins fine, but when you put body weight on it, the bearing compresses and the free hub will interfere with the teeth on the drive ring.

  42. #1542
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    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    As for the torque wrench, it's not so much a matter of "ham fisted over tightening", as just tightening it the way it was engineered to be tightened.
    Bingo! And if the fasteners are over/under tightened even just a bit, they may very well come loose prematurely, even if the pivots are running well otherwise.

    RideEverything, as for locktite, it could be that plumbers tape will get the job done temporarily, but especially riding in Whislter, I'd pull the axles and re-do with locktite since you've already had them come loose once.

    Locktite needs to be re-applied everytime you pull the pivots. What's lefter after the first use is just residual. Ideally you clean all the threads thoroughly with something like denatured alcohol or acetone, let dry, then generously hit the threads with locktite. Assemble while wet, torque to spec, then let everything sit overnight before riding.

  43. #1543
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    Thanks for the tips!

    I'll hopefully get at this before I get into full riding mode and then there won't be much or any ride down time.

    Now, off to spend money on a torque wrench and cleaners!

    Ah, the never ending money pit that is mountain biking! We do this for fun, right!

  44. #1544
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    Hey while we got you.... IBT is open already (!)? Where's the snow level at? How's the west side? (scheming & pondering....)

  45. #1545
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    Same as Jackl, I use anti-sieze, haven't had any of my pivots come loose on my PP Prime or now Phantom, find it helps to get to proper torque, easier (dry threads don't allow this) also use it as spoke prep, works fantastic. Recently got the 150x12 drop outs and Banshee's light axle, no issues there either, hasn't ever come loose, no issues with the hub.
    As Jackl mentioned, I'd check the hub and bearings and spacers within the hub to see if anything is worn and causing binding. I had a Hope Pro2 SS bolt on and when the spacer that goes between the bearings wore out/down after years of removing/installing it caused this same issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    I use anti-seize grease from the auto-parts store (the silvery metallic stuff) on the axle threads and lock bolt, and have had zero issues with loosening.

    Not a fan of running the axle threads dry. If I wasn't using anti-seize, I'd run threadlocker, medium or low-strength.

    Regarding the hub, I'd check the bearings. I'm not familiar with E13 hubs, but I've had a few hubs where the bearing starts losing structural integrity. So on the stand the wheel spins fine, but when you put body weight on it, the bearing compresses and the free hub will interfere with the teeth on the drive ring.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  46. #1546
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Hey while we got you.... IBT is open already (!)? Where's the snow level at? How's the west side? (scheming & pondering....)
    Yep! No snow at all! It has been good to go for a while now.
    I pedalled up to Highline to access IBT and it looked like the road is probably clear all the way to Highside. I know people were pushing up the road when there was snow on it to ride Highside 1.5 months ago. The trail was clear then!

    I haven't ridden anything yet on Westside but everything is good to go. I've heard there's a few snow patches of the Flank but nothing major.

    People have been riding Lost Lake since February! It really has been a shit snow year!

  47. #1547
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    It really has been a shit snow year!
    Yeah... at least I got an %80 rebate on my seasons passes

    I will PM you when I get a trip on the books!

  48. #1548
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    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-wp_20150322_007-2-.jpg

    Here is a shot of my banshee. Same exact spot RideEverything posted couple days ago.
    Killer trail here in Whistler. (Business time or also called Duncan's trail, in function junction)

    I am 5'11, on a medium. Feels great.
    Fox DHX 5.0 coil w/ #400 ti spring (Also have an elka stage 5 around)
    Fox float 34 CTD 140mm kashima
    Stans Flow EX on Hope pro 2 evo 142
    Kenda nevegal X-pro 2.2 (soon to be Schwalbe hans dampf)
    Shimano XT M785 levers with Shimano saint m810 calipers
    160mm rotors
    One-up 42T with XTR shifter/SLX rear d
    Sram X9 175mm crankset with North shore billet 28T NW direct mount chainring
    Chromag Ranger 50mm stem with Sunline 762mm flat bar
    Chromag Trailmaster DT saddle
    Kind shock lev 150 (I wish they made a 200mm...!)
    Time ATAC pedals

    I don't like the CTD fork, I really one with compression setting!
    For those of you who run a coil shock, what spring do you use? I run a 400, with ALL compression full-open, weight 160 after taking a piss in the morning, so say 175-180 all geared up, and I need to go with a lower spring rate as I don't go through travel.

    Love this bike.

    I know most people at my height rides large, and I have no idea how! I rode a large spitfire last year and sold it right away, way too long. This medium, to me, is spot on.

    I had quite a few rides on the bike so far. I tried the slackest HA/Low bb/ long CS and hated it. Bike felt long and climbing was horrible. Living in Whistler, you'd think people would all run the slackest bike, but you have to get up, and the climbs here are pretty gnarly. And I LOVE to climb.
    I am super impressed as to how the prime climbs. My other bike is a chromag rootdown 29er hardtail (medium/large), which I love just as much. And I had both a turner sultan and a transition bandit 29 in the last year, both in large size. Hated the transition, really. Hated. This bike, to me, had no soul, nothing, nada. And it bobed all the time, you'd expect that from a single pivot, but it was worst than expected, and getting a pro deal was the only reason I bought it. The new 2015 transition looks killer though, and having a horst link is gonna help a lot. I kinda wish I tried the smuggler!
    The turner on the other end was the bomb. It climbed better than the banshee (not by far), but wasn't aggressive enough and had a 'super long' chainstay. Which is the main reason I swapped.

    I've been running the bike on the steepest HA/short CS/ and high BB setting lately. I like it a lot. I lost the middle range chips... and I'm pretty sure that'd be the perfect setting! I really have to find those little guys.

    Way to go banshee, now I really want to try the phantom!
    Last edited by gregmazo; 03-22-2015 at 07:29 PM.

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    hey GM. now i'm really surprised that you didn't keep the MM but i'm happy it's coming my way! you sound like a very particular rider who knows just what he likes. i've got a Smuggler coming and i hope it's all it's hyped up to be, and way more importantly, that i mesh with it well. i can't see that not happening.
    cool about the Prime, looks like an awesome all round AM bike with good climbing characteristics from what i've heard.

    yes, you do sound like an anomaly with your size and setting preferences, especially for Whistler terrain! i hope to get back there this year and ride some of the valley trails, Pemby too. if i do i'll connect with you and see about getting a locals link to the trails.

  50. #1550
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregmazo View Post
    I don't like the CTD fork, I really one with compression setting!
    I'm in the same boat. I don't have any real love for the 34 CTD fork.
    Do you think you'd spend the money and get the Vorsprung TLA damper upgrade? Or just buy a completely different fork?
    I'm on the fence right now about the 34 CTD fork because I haven't spent a lot of time on it yet. But it hasn't impressed me so far. And, if I can't get it to perform the way I'd like I'm going to start throwing money at it to see if it can be made better. That or throw it and get something else!

    Nice photo op spot!
    I'm also curious if we've crossed paths (we probably have if we both ride bikes and attend any of the local events in this town - Toonies).

  51. #1551
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregmazo View Post
    I don't like the CTD fork, I really one with compression setting!
    For those of you who run a coil shock, what spring do you use? I run a 400, with ALL compression full-open, weight 160 after taking a piss in the morning, so say 175-180 all geared up, and I need to go with a lower spring rate as I don't go through travel.
    Hey GM,
    When I had my banshee proto, I tried the Elka coil that was tuned for my Rune. I weigh 175lbs and had a 400lb spring. Long story short, the Prime needs a light compression tune, and if your elka was tuned for a v1 Rune it's a medium tune. It actually makes a huge difference- even a stock RP23 felt better than the Elka. So I think your spring rate is correct but you may have too much compression damping even when it's fully backed off.

    On the forks, let me save you some money: ditch the 34 and get the new 36. It's a notch beyond the pike and a whole other category than the 34. (this is based on the 2015 36 I put on my spitfire)

  52. #1552
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    On the forks, let me save you some money: ditch the 34 and get the new 36. It's a notch beyond the pike and a whole other category than the 34. (this is based on the 2015 36 I put on my spitfire)
    I was just about to order PIKE.
    Can You give some more datils why 36 FOx is way beyond RS - things i've heard till now they work similarly, but RS is chaper and easier to service at home.

  53. #1553
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    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    I was just about to order PIKE.
    Can You give some more datils why 36 FOx is way beyond RS - things i've heard till now they work similarly, but RS is chaper and easier to service at home.
    Yeah, I had a Pike on my Prime (after the 34rlc) and now a float 36 on the Spitty. The pike is a great fork. The 36 is a bit stiffer, just enough to be noticable. Although I never had any complaints about the Pike.

    Where the 36 is better-
    The air spring & just the feel- not sure if it's lower stiction or what, but it just feels more supple off the top and uses travel more effectively.
    Separate low & high speed compression controls makes it easier to tune in mid-stroke support without making the fork harsh. Between that and the tokens, this fork is really tunable.

  54. #1554
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    Seems like differences might be unnoticeable for someone riding 32 SID till now.
    Taking also account that PIKE is cheaper


    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Yeah, I had a Pike on my Prime (after the 34rlc) and now a float 36 on the Spitty. The pike is a great fork. The 36 is a bit stiffer, just enough to be noticable. Although I never had any complaints about the Pike.

    Where the 36 is better-
    The air spring & just the feel- not sure if it's lower stiction or what, but it just feels more supple off the top and uses travel more effectively.
    Separate low & high speed compression controls makes it easier to tune in mid-stroke support without making the fork harsh. Between that and the tokens, this fork is really tunable.

  55. #1555
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    It's been over a year now and I'm really happy with how the prime is running. It's taken a while to really get along with it as it was a big jump from 26 to 29 but after replacing the ccdba cs with an x fusion vector air shock the prime feels much more playful and balanced with the pike up front. Cheers AOK

    Just got back from a great trip to Rotorua and Queenstown and the prime was awesome on little red riding Huck, hot cross buns and the rooty trails at the top of the hill in Rotorua. Also really enjoyed the open trails like rude rock, pak track n sack along with the bike park tails (vertigo, original, thingamajig, single track sandwich, jungle adventure and Armageddon) in Queenstown. Hoping I can make another trip soon.

    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-uploadfromtaptalk1428502926363.jpg

    A great day in the mud at Queenstown bike park.

  56. #1556
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    Also has anyone out a coil shock on their prime. After spending a day on a specialized demo in Queenstown with a coil shock I'm thinking of picking up one for my prime, possibly a vivid coil with a m/m tune.

  57. #1557
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussieprime View Post
    Also has anyone out a coil shock on their prime. After spending a day on a specialized demo in Queenstown with a coil shock I'm thinking of picking up one for my prime, possibly a vivid coil with a m/m tune.
    Yes, I've run a coil. Unless you are a clyde you'd be better off with a L/L tune on the Prime.

  58. #1558
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    You could run one of these, think it should work if they've OK'd it for the Rune All reports are that they're fantastic


    ELEVENSIX Shock ? PUSH Industries

    Quote Originally Posted by aussieprime View Post
    Also has anyone out a coil shock on their prime. After spending a day on a specialized demo in Queenstown with a coil shock I'm thinking of picking up one for my prime, possibly a vivid coil with a m/m tune.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  59. #1559
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    The Rune has a 8.5" i2i.

    PUSH is currently working on their 7.875 version, according to forum posts.

  60. #1560
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    Yeah, no sorry, meant that you should be able to get one for the Prime, not that the same shock would work.

    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    The Rune has a 8.5" i2i.

    PUSH is currently working on their 7.875 version, according to forum posts.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  61. #1561
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    I have a CCdb coil w/ a Renton spring. I like it so far, but have never had experience with a air shock.

    ^That Push coil shock better be REALLY f@cking awesome for that kind of dough.

  62. #1562
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Yes, I've run a coil. Unless you are a clyde you'd be better off with a L/L tune on the Prime.
    Thanks for the info. Looks like only m/m tunes are available aftermarket so additional costs for a retune to l/l. Starting to think it might not be worth the cost and hassle.

  63. #1563
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    You could run one of these, think it should work if they've OK'd it for the Rune All reports are that they're fantastic


    ELEVENSIX Shock ? PUSH Industries
    Sounded promising them I saw the price that's nearly the price I paid for the prime frame and ccdbcs!

  64. #1564
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I have a CCdb coil w/ a Renton spring. I like it so far, but have never had experience with a air shock.

    ^That Push coil shock better be REALLY f@cking awesome for that kind of dough.
    I'm a bit wary of cane creek given my experience with the dbacs. How is the coil version going over the prime in terms of bottoming out? I couldn't find a happy balance on the dbacs with adequate small bump compliance and reasonable bottom out for the big hit, felt like I had to choose between one of the other

  65. #1565
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    ^ I am not a good person to ask about bottoming out. My typical ride doesn't consist of anthing over 2' in the air...I am not a typical prime user I suspect.

    I bought the Prime for riding XC style trails, because I wanted something that performed well at my weight and size 6'2" 240lbs geared. I don't know how you can get much better than a Coil shock though. I coil spring controls your sag (I have a renton Ti spring for slightly better small bump compliance), which means all the compression and rebound settings are independent of spring.

    I have ZERO experience with any other shock, but in terms of tuning, I really have a hard time thinking you couldn't get a coil shock dialed in.

  66. #1566
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussieprime View Post
    Sounded promising them I saw the price that's nearly the price I paid for the prime frame and ccdbcs!
    Yeah I saw that price a while back. I spend some pretty crazy money on my bike, but a $1200 shock? Ummm, I'm out on that.

    Hey LyNx, why don't you get one of those bad boys. Then post up the ride report and we'll live vicariously through you.

  67. #1567
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    Unfortunately they don't make them for the Phantom I was like you guys at first too, but then after reading guys posts about how many shocks they'd bought and tried, had tuned etc, if you bought a frame and this shock and that was it without all the fuss and muss and time and experimenting wasted, it'd be worth it. It's like buying stop gap parts until you finally buy the right thing, you spend more.

    I'm wondering how the new Fox shock they released at Sea Otter will perform in comparison since it sounds like it has a lot of features similar, all except getting it custom made for you and your frame right off the bat.
    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    Yeah I saw that price a while back. I spend some pretty crazy money on my bike, but a $1200 shock? Ummm, I'm out on that.

    Hey LyNx, why don't you get one of those bad boys. Then post up the ride report and we'll live vicariously through you.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  68. #1568
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    I love my Prime.

    That is all.

  69. #1569
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    Warning! Mixed manufacturers content! Banshee and Transition bikes pictured!

    My bud riding the first main feature on Cheap Thrills. He just got his Transition Patrol and is loving the new bike!
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p4260005.jpg

    I'm still very much enjoying the Prime!
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p4260019.jpg

    Zoom!
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p4260022.jpg

    Getting a little loose on the exit from the bridge!
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p4260044.jpg

    Ahh, Coastal Temperate Rainforest trails.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-p4260035.jpg


    I'm still dialing in the ride of my Prime. I have been riding weekly since about mid February being that it has been a shit snow season. But that only puts me on the bike for about 2.5 - 3 months since I built it.

    The shock is doing well. I'm still playing with the settings for that elusive "perfect ride quality".
    Although, I think that my change in braking technique so that the rear end doesn't stiffen up is helping more than any shock adjustment! I just brake way less now. It leads me to going really fast. Most of the time it's great! Some of the time, not so much!!

    I finally picked up a 150mm LEV dropper post. It was pure suffering not having one! I really don't know how people ride without one!
    I've also picked up a rear Maxle. It has definitely helped with my hub issues. But they're not completely gone. I am starting to think that it may be the bearings in the hub, as someone in this thread suggested, causing the issue. You'd think that when product is brand new that bearing issues wouldn't happen. But...

    Anyway, I'm loving the ride and riding it hard!

  70. #1570
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    More i read your posts, more i'm envy.
    My prime (according to Europe dealer) sould be delivered long time ago bud they face already 2mth delay. Did you also had such a problems with Banshee?? As i was informed nobody in EU received the spring delivery...

    Second question.
    Can you let me know what should i expect in package (when it finally arrives)- frame, skoro, rear maile.... any more?

  71. #1571
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    what I did get with my 2013's was a box with rear axle, dropouts, chips, der. hanger and lotta stickers.........Santa in April....excited like a child.
    I got it in Austria and it took 3 months since order.
    Last edited by filbike; 04-28-2015 at 07:03 AM.

  72. #1572
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    Thank you.
    Nothing more to add. With best winds my Santa will come in june...

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    Greats pics RideEverything, you'll have the prime dialed in no time in terrain like that.

    Sadly I won't be posting in here anymore as I've gone to the darkside and ordered a Canfield riot. I can't keep the banshee prime as well unfortunately so I'll have to sell it. If anyone is looking for a large raw frame in excellent condition let me know.

  74. #1574
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    PM'd you Aussieprime

  75. #1575
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    Well, no cool photos to post, but I have been enjoying the prime! Still tweaking the suspension, and playing with tire pressure.

    I will note that I have issues with my rear brake caliper/rotor. Lots of rythmic *clunk clunk clunk* when using the rear brake. I had the lbs face the dropout which resulted in a decent amount of chips on the floor, but I am guessing my pads are wore uneven enough that the sound is still there.

    I should have known when the frame showed up damaged from improper assembly, along w/ missed steps in the manufacturing process of the frame...that I was going to have troubles with this thing. My bike was def either made on a Monday or Friday.

    I also took apart the links and greased everything up!

  76. #1576
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    why dont you take out the pads and have a look?
    which brake are we talking about?

  77. #1577
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    why dont you take out the pads and have a look?
    which brake are we talking about?
    I noticed some uneven pad wear vertically (from top of pad to bottom, not front to back), which is why I concluded that there was a pretty decent amount of misalignment in the dropout.

    I was hoping that facing would have elimated it, but I am guessing a fresh set of pads will be required for further testing.

    Hope X2 Evo race rear brake.

  78. #1578
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I will note that I have issues with my rear brake caliper/rotor. Lots of rythmic *clunk clunk clunk* when using the rear brake. I had the lbs face the dropout which resulted in a decent amount of chips on the floor, but I am guessing my pads are wore uneven enough that the sound is still there.
    That sounds like a mismatch between your rotor size and caliper adapter, or the caliper mounting hardware isn't in the right order (i.e. spacers between caliper and adapter). Either way, this can cause the inside or outside edge of the rotor to hit the pads, creating that sound.

    I can't think of any good reason to face a replaceable drop-out, especially if you have 142x12. In any case replacing the pads and resetting the pistons and calipler alignment should have been the first call. Skeptical your LBS knows what their doing...

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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    That sounds like a mismatch between your rotor size and caliper adapter, or the caliper mounting hardware isn't in the right order (i.e. spacers between caliper and adapter). Either way, this can cause the inside or outside edge of the rotor to hit the pads, creating that sound.

    I can't think of any good reason to face a replaceable drop-out, especially if you have 142x12. In any case replacing the pads and resetting the pistons and calipler alignment should have been the first call. Skeptical your LBS knows what their doing...
    My lbs doesn't know what they are doing...I have confirmed that many times. But they have the tools, and under my supervision do decent work. There may be a adapter issue, and I should grab a Hope adapter to go along with my Hope brakes.

    I faced the dropout to confirm it would be parallel to the rotor. I have the caliper aligned correctly, and have confirmed the pads are wearing evenly. Good point about the adapter though..that will be my next route.

  80. #1580
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    Yeah, I'd tend to agree with FM, could be a very simple thing like you're using a 180mm adapter and running a 183mm rotor, which would put the rotor too high up into the caliper. I've done this before the other way around running older Avid adapters made for 185mm rotor and running a 180mm rotor and had to take some material off.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Yeah, I'd tend to agree with FM, could be a very simple thing like you're using a 180mm adapter and running a 183mm rotor, which would put the rotor too high up into the caliper. I've done this before the other way around running older Avid adapters made for 185mm rotor and running a 180mm rotor and had to take some material off.
    Its a hope 160mm rotor, so I have a hard time thinking its a adapter issue. But I might as well throw some more money at it!

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    160mm, on a bike you use? I'd expect you'd at least be running 180 F&R and more likely 180 R/200 F.

    Remember that some brands use a direct mount to the bracket, while some others like Avid use the CPS washers and as such the brackets are made to use them and if not used would not mount caliper far enough out.

    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Its a hope 160mm rotor, so I have a hard time thinking its a adapter issue. But I might as well throw some more money at it!
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

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    the CPS washers are part of the brake caliper, meassurementwise... the avid adapters themselves are identical to others...

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    That's what I thought and maybe I just got adapters not labelled as such, but in having to shave some off some Avid adapters I've used I thought this was the issue, but then if that is true most likely like I suggested it was a 185mm adapter or vice versa.

    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    the CPS washers are part of the brake caliper, meassurementwise... the avid adapters themselves are identical to others...
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    160mm, on a bike you use? I'd expect you'd at least be running 180 F&R and more likely 180 R/200 F.
    Well, I was running 180 rear but found I was locking up the rear brake more than I wanted to...so I switched to 160 rear 203 front w/ Hope M4/X2 and Hope floating rotors.

    I have a Hope (f) mount on order to swap out the current one...but man, that rear brake is loud *clunk-clunk-clunk* every FREAKING time I use it!!

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    worn-out pads?

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    @jonshonda, have you sorted out your brake issue?

    If not did you check to see if there are any notches or gouges in the pads or the rotors?

    A few years back I had a minor knocking noise when using my front brake and it turned out that I had a minor scratch on the rotor and ding out of the pad that was causing the brake to make a knocking noise and pulse in power when using the brake. I swapped the pads out and sanded the rotor and everything went back to how it should operate.

  88. #1588
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    I'm riding a lot solo these days so not many action shots are happening.

    This bike just keeps on photobombing my pictures every time I try to take a scenic shot!
    With the shadow on the wheels my bike is also pretending to be one of those stupid +bikes. Thankfully it's just a visual effect. Yeah, I said it, stupid.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20150521_142421.jpg

    Mmmm, a new trail of rock ribbon to follow.
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20150521_151640.jpg

    An angry snake. I'd be angry too if I was almost run over!
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread-20150521_153046.jpg


    On a side note for any of you XL frame size riders out there you might be interested in some large sized grips. I just picked up the new Chromag Squarewave XL grips, and, damn, are they large!
    I'll not be having sore hands any time soon holding onto these. So comfortable. They're longer than your average grip as well as comparable in diameter to the Oury grips. I think they feel larger than the Oury's.
    Anyway, I thought I'd let the giants out there know that there's another grip option.

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    Guys

    Started to build mine Prime and i'm confused.

    Plan to have my old Cranks (SH XT) and use std BB (73mm) plus NW chainring for 1x10

    Usually Shimano recommends one spacer (2.5mm) od drive side.
    Should i use one or none at all?

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    you have to use one spacer (2.5mm) with this shimano setup
    to improve chainline, you can try putting it on the non-drive side...

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    non-drive side ??
    does it improve chainline ?

    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    you have to use one spacer (2.5mm) with this shimano setup
    to improve chainline, you can try putting it on the non-drive side...

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    yes, it moves the whole assembly 2.5 to the left, so the chainline is improved on the taller gears...
    you can try it, but it will work without problems with the spacer on the driveside as intended...

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    To my eyes:

    when i put the spacer on left (non drive) than i'm moving only left crank arm to left (no influence on drive side)
    when placing the spacer on right i'm moving crank to right - chainline more towards high gears


    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    yes, it moves the whole assembly 2.5 to the left, so the chainline is improved on the taller gears...
    you can try it, but it will work without problems with the spacer on the driveside as intended...

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    no... because the right bb Shell has no spacer, moves to the left, therefore the crank also moves to the left...

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    Malcolm

    So to be clear - as i rather like to listen to people with better knowledge than mine.
    My BB is Shimano BB93 separated into 2 cups.

    Left - 1x2,5mm spacer
    Right - no spacer

    correct - ?

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    yeah... you can try it both ways and see which chainline you like better -spacer to the left means better chainline for climbing, chainline to the right means better chainline for the smaller cogs...

    and, when you go for the "climbing chainline", there won`t be space for an ISCG chainguide...

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    So maybe the golden solution is to have cranks centered first and than play with the spacers (depending on how much space has been left).

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    What drop out option did you go for Placek? If you did 150x12, then set it up as Shimano says, if you went 143x12 or 153x10, then maybe play around with running the spacer on the NDS. Personally I've done this before on another bike for the exact same reason and it does make a difference, but on my Prime and Phantom, I've had no need since I first ran an 135 SS hub with 6 cogs and now a 150x12 hub with full cassette. With the spacer on the DS, the crank should be centre to the frame (to check just rotate the cranks and measure the space between them and chainstay) if you run it on the NDS, the DS crank will be 2.5mm close to the DS chanistay and the NDS will be 2.5mm further a way from the NDS chainstay. Up to you if that bit of difference is something you can feel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    So maybe the golden solution is to have cranks centered first and than play with the spacers (depending on how much space has been left).
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

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    @ 6'2" on a Large Prime I have always felt like the bike was too small for me. Often found my body position was out over the front of the bike too often. Even w/ a setback post and 70mm stem, I felt the need to hunch over to get into a position I liked.

    I just found a XL frame and hope it will help to put me back on the bike a little more, in a more neutral position.

    That being said, my Large Raw 2013 frame will be going up for sale.
    Last edited by jonshonda; 05-29-2015 at 09:04 AM.

  100. #1600
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    My "new" Banshee Prime 29+

    I posted pics of my Prime with 650b dropouts and Dirt Wizards mounted in the 27+/29+ forum:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5-29/my-ne...l#post11994923

    I have not ridden it in the dirt yet, but I'm really looking forward to it.

    What an incredible "adaptable" frame...kudos Keith.