• 08-14-2014
    Optimus
    You using a long cage rear mech, FM?
  • 08-14-2014
    FM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    You using a long cage rear mech, FM?

    Mid cage XT on the prime, XT casette.
    And an MRP AMG guide. Shifts great, quiet, light... super happy with this set-up.

    I'm running the same set-up with a short cage ZEE on my hardtail. This short cage works great, but only because the chainstay length is fixed.

    Got a box off front derailleurs and bar ends...destined to be yard art.
  • 08-14-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Got a box off front derailleurs and bar ends...destined to be yard art.

    I have the same problem! :)
  • 08-14-2014
    LyNx
    Well before you do that, throw them in the post, some of us still believe in a 2X setup ;)

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Got a box off front derailleurs and bar ends...destined to be yard art.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    I have the same problem! :)

  • 09-13-2014
    RideEverything
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    !!ALMOST!!

    So close to being finished!
    Steerer tube needs to be cut, brake lines shortened and a new saddle.

    The only downside is that I have family visiting for a week so riding this beauty will have to wait. :(

    Here's a few phone pics of the build so far.





  • 09-13-2014
    muzzanic
    No you need to get out anyway.

    That is why you need other bikes , So they can come for a ride to.


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    !!ALMOST!!

    So close to being finished!
    Steerer tube needs to be cut, brake lines shortened and a new saddle.

    The only downside is that I have family visiting for a week so riding this beauty will have to wait. :http://forums.mtbr.com/banshee-bikes/production-prime-photo-build-thread-817368-post11448616.html#post11448616\" rel=\"nofollow\">View Post
    !!ALMOST!!

    So close to being finished!
    Steerer tube needs to be cut, brake lines shortened and a new saddle.

    The only downside is that I have family visiting for a week so riding this beauty will have to wait. :(

    Sweet build!
  • 09-13-2014
    Optimus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Steerer tube needs to be cut, brake lines shortened and a new saddle.

    Very nice, RE.

    Steerer is fine, now you have a place to mount a bottle cage, LOL. ;)
  • 09-16-2014
    RideEverything
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    I APPROVE!



    I managed to get out for a quick ride!

    !!SO!! !!STOKED!!
  • 09-16-2014
    FM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I APPROVE!

    I managed to get out for a quick ride!

    !!SO!! !!STOKED!!

    Looks good man! Hitting some valley trails with it?
  • 09-16-2014
    RideEverything
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Looks good man! Hitting some valley trails with it?

    Yeah, High Side - HiHi - Highline - AM/PM.
    So dusty and loose right now! Some of the corners on High Side were a foot deep in moon dust!
    It made for an excitingly drifty inaugural ride on the Prime!
  • 09-16-2014
    RideEverything
    12 Attachment(s)
    My build has finally been completed!
    6 months of waiting for the availability of parts at the right prices. Finally!


    The build:

    Frame - 2013 Banshee Prime XL raw
    Shock - CCDBA CS
    Fork - 2014 Fox 34 Float FIT CTD
    Stem - Chromag BZA 35 50mm
    Bars - Chromag BZA 35 780mm carbon
    Brakes - Avid X0 Trail 200mm
    Shifter - SRAM X9
    Grips - Chromag Squarewave
    BB - Truvativ GXP
    Cranks - SRAM X0 175mm
    Chainring - Chromag X-Sync direct mount 28T
    Pedals - Chromag Scarab
    Seat Clamp - Chromag QR
    Seat Post - Banshee 380mm
    Saddle - Chromag Trailmaster LTD
    RD - SRAM X0
    Cassette - 10spd SRAM with OneUp 42T and 16T cogs
    Rims - Derby HD carbon
    Hubs - Front CHUB, Rear 150mm eThirteen
    Tires - Front Schwalbe Hans Dampf, Rear Maxxis HR2

    I managed to get out for a quick ride to suss out my suspension set up after I picked up my bike from having the steerer cut and brake lines shortened. I think I got pretty close but a short ride didn't tell me everything. More riding is needed to get the fork and shock dialed.
    What I did notice right from the start was how freaking responsive carbon rims are for direction change! Paired with a stiffer fork from what I'm used to I found myself oversteering regularly!

    Now for some first ride bike pr0n pics!

    Attachment 924088

    Attachment 924089

    Attachment 924090

    Attachment 924091

    Attachment 924092

    Attachment 924093

    Attachment 924095

    Attachment 924094

    Attachment 924096

    Attachment 924097

    Attachment 924098

    Attachment 924099
  • 09-16-2014
    muzzanic
    Nice build, enjoy


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    My build has finally been completed!
    6 months of waiting for the availability of parts at the right prices. Finally!


    The build:

    Frame - 2013 Banshee Prime XL raw
    Shock - CCDBA CS
    Fork - 2014 Fox 34 Float FIT CTD
    Stem - Chromag BZA 35 50mm
    Bars - Chromag BZA 35 780mm carbon
    Brakes - Avid X0 Trail 200mm
    Shifter - SRAM X9
    Grips - Chromag Squarewave
    BB - Truvativ GXP
    Cranks - SRAM X0 175mm
    Chainring - Chromag X-Sync direct mount 28T
    Pedals - Chromag Scarab
    Seat Clamp - Chromag QR
    Seat Post - Banshee 380mm
    Saddle - Chromag Trailmaster LTD
    RD - SRAM X0
    Cassette - 10spd SRAM with OneUp 42T and 16T cogs
    Rims - Derby HD carbon
    Hubs - Front CHUB, Rear eThirteen
    Tires - Front Schwalbe Hans Dampf, Rear Maxxis HR2

    I managed to get out for a quick ride to suss out my suspension set up after I picked up my bike from having the steerer cut and brake lines shortened. I think I got pretty close but a short ride didn't tell me everything. More riding is needed to get the fork and shock dialed.
    What I did notice right from the start was how freaking responsive carbon rims are for direction change! Paired with a stiffer fork from what I'm used to I found myself oversteering regularly!

    Now for some first ride bike pr0n pics!

    Attachment 924088

    Attachment 924089

    Attachment 924090

    Attachment 924091

    Attachment 924092

    Attachment 924093

    Attachment 924095

    Attachment 924094

    Attachment 924096

    Attachment 924097

    Attachment 924098

    Attachment 924099

  • 09-16-2014
    PeachesN'Cream
    Dang. That is a tight build right there.

    Get's me all extra excited for my own 13' Raw XL, next week!
    Just did the great frame size debate. How tall are you / inseam etc.? Still trying to validate my XL and 35mm stem plan.

    Can't tell from the pics. Are the decals under the clear coat or on top? I was hoping to strip most of them.

    Super nice build man! How could you not be stoked!?
  • 09-16-2014
    RideEverything
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by PeachesN'Cream View Post
    Dang. That is a tight build right there.

    Get's me all extra excited for my own 13' Raw XL, next week!
    Just did the great frame size debate. How tall are you / inseam etc.? Still trying to validate my XL and 35mm stem plan.

    Can't tell from the pics. Are the decals under the clear coat or on top? I was hoping to strip most of them.

    Super nice build man! How could you not be stoked!?

    Thanks!
    I am super stoked!
    I really shouldn't be saying this but I really need my family to finish their visit so I can get some serious riding done on this beauty of a bicycle!!

    I'm a giant at 6'6" and 240ish geared up. My inseam, if I remember correctly, is +/- 36".

    And, unfortunately, the decals are under the clear coat. I had the same plan as you to remove all but a few.
  • 09-16-2014
    PeachesN'Cream
    Awesome. I'm 3" shorter than you but similar inseam, 35.5in and weight.

    Too bad about the decals but as it goes I don't mind them. I had plans to do matte silver vinyl graphics for a stealth raw look... and black on black fox stickers. Graphic designer raises hand...

    Please do share your thoughts as you get things dialed in. I'll do the same.
  • 09-17-2014
    LyNx
    Fantastic build, would be lying if I didn't say I was jealous of some of the parts on that thing ;) Was looking at the full pic and exposed seatpost and wondering how frikin tall you were to have that much out, thinking you've got a bit more than a 36" inseam though going from the measly amount of post I had showing on my XL, my size 13"/48 feet and 35.25" inseam. While not debating the carbon rim stiffness thing, those Chubb hubs and much larger than normal hub flanges and hence quite a bit shorter spokes are also playing a big effect.
  • 09-17-2014
    jonshonda
    1 Attachment(s)
    Nice build. I am really trying to restrain myself from buying Derby wheels.

    Had a nice crash yesterday on a new trail, which has convinced me to buy a dropper post. I figure as long as I am replacing the brake line that got tore off, I might as well get a new post.

    Crappy pic of some new stuff on the trails. Attachment 924153
  • 09-17-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything;
    What I did notice right from the start was how freaking responsive carbon rims are for direction change!

    Carbon rims in general are great, but Derby rims are awesome. Been riding Derbys on my Prime for a year and now have a set on the Phantom. Great product!

    Congrats on the build. Looks great and I know from experience that the Prime is a blast to ride. You are in for some good times. :)
  • 09-17-2014
    RideEverything
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Fantastic build, would be lying if I didn't say I was jealous of some of the parts on that thing ;) Was looking at the full pic and exposed seatpost and wondering how frikin tall you were to have that much out, thinking you've got a bit more than a 36" inseam though going from the measly amount of post I had showing on my XL, my size 13"/48 feet and 35.25" inseam. While not debating the carbon rim stiffness thing, those Chubb hubs and much larger than normal hub flanges and hence quite a bit shorter spokes are also playing a big effect.

    Thank you Captain Obvious!
    I am aware that my wheel build as a whole is substantially stiffer than a regular build because of both the rim, shorter spokes and large flanges on the hubs.
    I just thought that I could riff on the largest portion of the wheel and not have to explain my complete understanding of the build.
    I'll remember for next time to get into the minute when posting so as to make sure you don't have to point out anything I missed.
    Or, maybe, I won't so that you can continue feeling like you're the expert on everything Banshee.

    Oh, and, out of curiosity I measured my inseam again and it's a touch over 37".
  • 09-17-2014
    jonshonda
    RideEverything, riding a Banshee Prime does not make you a badass. Lynx wasn't being a dick with regards to your wheelset, if anything he was complimenting your choice of components, which led to an overall stiff build.

    So stop yo bichin.
  • 09-17-2014
    RideEverything
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    RideEverything, riding a Banshee Prime does not make you a badass. Lynx wasn't being a dick with regards to your wheelset, if anything he was complimenting your choice of components, which led to an overall stiff build.

    So stop yo bichin.

    It didn't make me a badass because I was already a badass!

    And, I stand by my original comment.
    Funny how nobdy gets up in arms at qbert for rightfully busting LyNx' balls for his usual "expert" opinion.

    I'm actually surprised that he had time to post it the Prime thread since he has his hands full reigning over the Phantom threads dolling out "expert" info to us lesser bike riding beings.
  • 09-17-2014
    JACKL
    I pulled the trigger today! I got mine ordered from Rbikes. It's coming direct from Banshee. Raw XL, and they said it was the last XL. It's a 2013 model so I have to wonder if there were any 2014 XLs.

    My build won't be anything fancy. I've got a Trace, Flow Exs, 1x10 setup, XT brakes. For the shock, I'm ultimately going to go with a CCDB Inline. However I may throw a cheap used shock on while I check the bike out and make sure it is going to work out for me.

    I really want the decals off! Probably not enough to mess up the clear though.
  • 09-17-2014
    muzzanic
    Wow nice way to talk to someone that is saying they like your bike.

    Good thing he didn't slam the build.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thank you Captain Obvious!
    I am aware that my wheel build as a whole is substantially stiffer than a regular build because of both the rim, shorter spokes and large flanges on the hubs.
    I just thought that I could riff on the largest portion of the wheel and not have to explain my complete understanding of the build.
    I'll remember for next time to get into the minute when posting so as to make sure you don't have to point out anything I missed.
    Or, maybe, I won't so that you can continue feeling like you're the expert on everything Banshee.

    Oh, and, out of curiosity I measured my inseam again and it's a touch over 37".

  • 09-17-2014
    PeachesN'Cream
    Moved to reply with quote.
  • 09-17-2014
    PeachesN'Cream
    Interesting.

    This is the exact same story I told you last night via PM about the 13' Raw XL Prime I ordered Tuesday afternoon...

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    I pulled the trigger today! I got mine ordered from Rbikes. It's coming direct from Banshee. Raw XL, and they said it was the last XL. It's a 2013 model so I have to wonder if there were any 2014 XLs.

  • 09-18-2014
    JACKL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by PeachesN'Cream View Post
    Interesting.

    This is the exact same story I told you last night via PM about the 13' Raw XL Prime I ordered Tuesday afternoon...

    Yeah now that you mention it. I sure hope it's not the same bike...
  • 09-18-2014
    aussieprime
    2 Attachment(s)
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Hi all

    Could I ask for the lighter prime riders out there for your cane creek double barrel air cs settings. I'm 70kg/155 pounds with riding gear and I seem to be moving further and further away from the base tune on the cane creek website, particularly as I'm needing so spacers to avoid bottoming too easily. whilst I'm happy overall with the shock's performance it does seem harsh over square edged bumps.

    Current settings are:

    * 100psi with 1 large and 1 small spacer to achieve 15mm sag
    * LSC - 8 of 22 clicks from open
    * lsr - 10 of 22 clicks from open
    * hsc - 2 turns from open
    * HSR - 1.5 turns from open.

    I'll be looking to add some more spacers to keep the sag but reduce bottoming when they arrive in the post. Any thoughts or input would be appreciated to to help put the final touches on a great bike.

    A couple of pics below from my trip to Rotorua earlier in the yearAttachment 924368 :D

    Attachment 924367
  • 09-18-2014
    C.P.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by aussieprime View Post
    Hi all

    Could I ask for the lighter prime riders out there for your cane creek double barrel air cs settings. I'm 70kg/155 pounds with riding gear and I seem to be moving further and further away from the base tune on the cane creek website, particularly as I'm needing so spacers to avoid bottoming too easily. whilst I'm happy overall with the shock's performance it does seem harsh over square edged bumps.

    Current settings are:

    * 100psi with 1 large and 1 small spacer to achieve 15mm sag
    * LSC - 8 of 22 clicks from open
    * lsr - 10 of 22 clicks from open
    * hsc - 2 turns from open
    * HSR - 1.5 turns from open.

    I'll be looking to add some more spacers to keep the sag but reduce bottoming when they arrive in the post. Any thoughts or input would be appreciated to to help put the final touches on a great bike.

    I'm not a lighter rider by any means, but did you try increasing the HSC before adding spacers? The next step would be to play with pressure (maybe increase slightly), and then again adjust HSC. If those two fail to get results, then is when you add the spacers into the mix...lastly, is the shock holding air properly? Maybe there's a leak?
  • 09-18-2014
    aussieprime
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by C.P. View Post
    I'm not a lighter rider by any means, but did you try increasing the HSC before adding spacers? The next step would be to play with pressure (maybe increase slightly), and then again adjust HSC. If those two fail to get results, then is when you add the spacers into the mix...lastly, is the shock holding air properly? Maybe there's a leak?

    Hi cp

    Good points and something I forgot to mention in my first post. When I first got my frame I slowly worked through the cane creek tuning guide and progressed up to 125 psi and 3.75 turns of hsc (4 turns us maximum) which resolved the bottoming out issue but meant that my sag was very close to the 10mm negative spring recharge point on the cane creek. This made for a very poor suspension feel (felt like the shock was constantly topping out - probably was).

    I'm much happier with the settings in my post above and will continue to experiment, but I'm hoping that this is not a unique experience and in line with other light prime riders. I'm moving away from the cane creek base tune (no spacers) and my MTB suspension experience has largely been with fox so there has always been a small lingering voice in the back of my mind wondering if the cane creek is defective. I don't think this is the case but I used to live my fox 32mm forks :eek:

    Possibly complicating the issue is that I'm so happy with the 140mm pikes on the front. I can't quite get the rear to match up with the controlled (no excessive diving) yet bottomless feel of the pikes.

    In short, hoping to find some further information/ settings for the cane creek shock to better match my pikes given that the prime base tune does not appear suitable for me.
  • 09-18-2014
    C.P.
    I'd hit the Cane Creek web forum, I notice their techs usually chime in on questions like this. https://www.canecreek.com/products/s...n/lounge/forum
  • 09-19-2014
    JACKL
    I'm gathering parts for my Prime, and I decided to go ahead and order my CCDB Inline. Anyone know where I can get the correct shock bushings?
  • 09-20-2014
    Colin+M
    Universal Cycles.
  • 09-21-2014
    JACKL
    I think I used the wrong term. To be clear, I'm referring to the spacers that go between the frame and the shock, not the bushing that is pressed into the shock eyelet.

    I was told by the shop that sold me the bike that the hardware to mount the DB Inline to a Prime is different than the hardware to mount a Fox, and would have to be custom ordered and that might take 2 weeks. And also that no bushings / spacers are included with the Prime frame.

    I measured a Fox Float and the dimensions for the shock eyes are 15mm and the width at each end is around 12.7mm which matches the DB Inline dimensions on the Cane Creek site. Therefore I've come to the conclusion that the DB Inline and Fox Float can use the same hardware, and I just need to order bushings in the following dimensions: M8 x 25.4 and M8 x 40. If anyone knows otherwise, please let me know.

    It also just occurred to me that I will also need the bolt and screw that passes through the bushing.

    If anyone has ordered a bare Prime frame shipped directly from Banshee, could you please tell me what shock hardware was included with the frame?
  • 09-21-2014
    DirtMerchantBicycles
    You need shock hardware.

    Presto!!!
    Universal Cycles -- 8mm Cane Creek Double Barrel Mounting Hardware

    40x8mm shaft end, 25.4x8mm reservoir end. The bolts will be included with the frame.

    I hope RBikes gave you a nice closeout price on the 2013 XL. Keep in mind it will not have stealth dropper post routing.
  • 09-22-2014
    JACKL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    You need shock hardware.

    Presto!!!
    Universal Cycles -- 8mm Cane Creek Double Barrel Mounting Hardware

    40x8mm shaft end, 25.4x8mm reservoir end. The bolts will be included with the frame.

    I hope RBikes gave you a nice closeout price on the 2013 XL. Keep in mind it will not have stealth dropper post routing.

    Thanks - good to know the bolts are included with the frame. I did get a nice closeout price on the 2013. I couldn't wait for the 2015s, and the 2014s seem to be about as available as purple unicorns. If somebody has one, post it up!
  • 09-23-2014
    jonshonda
    Any of you crazy mofos tried a 29+ setup on the PRIME yet?
  • 09-23-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    I will probably try it soon... Got a Krampus built up but I haven't sprung for any 29+ tires yet.

    Having said that, I doubt they will fit. I have some placeholder normal tires mounted on the Krampus and they look tiny. If that is an indication of how big the 29x3 tires are then they will be BIG.

    Another thought is to try one of the new "B+" tires that are coming out. They would be more likely to fit in a 29er frame. Although I am not sure how different it would be. Bigger volume tire but still a similar diameter to standard 29, so rollover may not be any different.
  • 09-23-2014
    LyNx
    Curious of the why? Do you mean F&R or front only? Going by how a 2.4" fits in the rear there's lots of clearance, but I don't think there's enough for a 3" tyre, on the front, most of the forks out now will hold a 29+ and I actually want to get one for my rigid Monkey and would of course try it on the Prime and Phantom, but waiting on the Maxxis option.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Any of you crazy mofos tried a 29+ setup on the PRIME yet?

  • 09-23-2014
    jonshonda
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Curious of the why?

    Cuz why not? Don't question me boy!!

    29+ FS would be a AWESOME BIKE.

    Keith, does it work?
  • 09-23-2014
    JACKL
    1 Attachment(s)
    Highly Unlikely
    Attachment 925918

    I've got a 29 x 3.0 Knard in my garage. I can mount it up and see if it fits my Prime when it arrives, but I can tell you now that it almost certainly won't. My GT has plenty of clearance with a Hans Dampf 2.35. I tried mounting the Knard on the back for grins. It fit in there and the wheel turned, but it was rubbing. That was a brand new tire and it stretched out after that.

    Vee Rubber has a 29x3.0 Trax Fattie that measures out smaller than the Knard which would be a better choice: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/29...-900173-3.html

    I clearanced my fork and ran a Knard on the front of my GT Sensor (120 rear travel, 140 front) for about 2 months. It really surprised me and woke me up to the potential of these bigger tires. I thought it would roll slow, but it actually rolled a little better than my Hans Dampf. On trails with lots of loose rock or rocky chatter, it actually went faster...just floated over it all with little loss of speed. It made me wonder if 29+ could actually be faster than 29.

    I removed it because I could not get it to corner fast on loose surfaces. I'd lean the bike into the corner, and if I pushed a little too hard it would just slide out from under me. I tried different pressures and techniques, but nothing helped. The tread pattern on the Knard is very smooth, and I was running it on a Flow Ex which is narrower than the minimum recommended rim width. So maybe that is why it would not corner well.

    What I would really rather try is something like a 2.6 or 2.7. With wheels getting wider, I figure the tires will follow at some point.
  • 09-23-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    most of the forks out now will hold a 29+

    Not sure how you come to that conclusion. I see very few forks that fit without mods of some sort. And I don't think that any of the fork manufacturers state that their forks can be used safely with 29+.
  • 09-23-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Looked at the rear tri on my Prime tonight. I think no way in hell does a 29+ tire fit in there.

    I have a 2.2 tire on wide Derby rims and while it has good clearance it is close enough to the suspension links and cross braces that there is just no way such a large tire would fit.
  • 09-23-2014
    RideEverything
    5 Attachment(s)
    Ahh, I love bike!
    The new bike smell still hasn't worn off.

    I'm running my Prime in the slackest setting which puts it at the longest WB. It's taking time to adjust to that because I'm coming off of a Honzo. The difference in WB is a little over 3".
    Other than that I'm settling in nicely.
    I'm still adjusting the shock, a DBair, but I should be able to get in the bike park soon. At which point with the back to back laps I should have it dialled.

    I hadn't realized how much a dropper post comes into play when riding when you've had one for several years.
    I still am without one because I've yet to find a price I like. I guess I'll just have to suffer with the seat up or the seat down through the rolling type trails until I find one.

    Here's a few pics from today:

    Attachment 926015

    Attachment 926016

    Attachment 926017


    And, here's a little more pr0n.
    There is never enough!

    Attachment 926020

    Attachment 926019
  • 09-24-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Great pics, RE! That first one is awesome.
  • 09-24-2014
    LyNx
    Never said that manufacturers had given the go ahead/OK for it, just said there were a lot of forks that can fit them. For sure I've sen photos of the F34, Trace having good clearance and I know a lot of Prime owners have these forks. If you want more info, check out the Krampus with front suspension thread.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    Not sure how you come to that conclusion. I see very few forks that fit without mods of some sort. And I don't think that any of the fork manufacturers state that their forks can be used safely with 29+.

  • 09-24-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Never said that manufacturers had given the go ahead/OK for it, just said there were a lot of forks that can fit them. For sure I've sen photos of the F34, Trace having good clearance and I know a lot of Prime owners have these forks. If you want more info, check out the Krampus with front suspension thread.

    No but you said most forks out today would fit a 29+ tire. Which is not really the case from what I have seen. The F34 seems to be one of a very small number of forks that will fit without removing material from the arch. And I have yet to see much in the way of proof that you won't have crown interference at full compression (yes, I have read the Krampus w/ front suspension thread).

    I would guess that with something to limit travel and some work on the arch most forks could be made to work with 29+, but that is not really what you said.
  • 09-26-2014
    RideEverything
    3 Attachment(s)
    I know there was discussion earlier in this thread about the Cane Creek DBair XV-can but it has been a challenge to find the posts.
    The reason I'm looking for them is to reread what was said about set-up for the shock.

    I believe I've got the shock set-up pretty close to what I want. However, I'm a little concerned because I'm running a fair bit of HSC and even with it set to almost max I'm still bottoming somewhat harshly on medium to large hits, medium g-outs and preloading into jumps.
    I recall from the earlier posts that there are supposed to be some sort of spacers that make the shock more progressive. Unfortunately, it looks like those weren't included when I picked up the frame,fork and shock.

    I was in the bike park the other day with the Prime to help speed the set-up of the shock. Damn, is it a sweet piece of equipment! It seriously outmatches the Fox 34 up front!
    It was fun to put the Prime through its paces in the park. The bike swings well above its riding category. But, it is still a small bike when it comes to high speed burly lines! I found that out a few times when pushing the Prime hard on some of the more burlier trails in the park. It was especially exciting because it was a wet day.

    Anyway, some thoughts or opinion would be welcome.
    For reference I'm 6'6", 240ish geared up and ride relatively aggressively in and around the Whistler, BC area. And, I'm not scared of going fast and sending moderate sized jumps and drops.

    Here's some more pics. These are from today's ride.

    So fast I'm blurry!
    Attachment 926921

    So fast my SO missed the timing on the corner shot!
    Attachment 926923

    A steep switchback section on this trail that is in the Forest of Endor.
    Attachment 926927
  • 09-26-2014
    Brandonf
    I currently have a medium prime with a 55mm stem. I'll post a picture shortly. I love the bike overall but I'm really regretting getting the medium. I'm 5' 11" and the reach is ok. A bit cramped but manageable. My main complaint is the short wheelbase. I love long wheelbase bikes (49" wheelbase on my large M9 and have a size large 49.5" WB 2015 glory on its way to replace the M9) and the 45.6" wheelbase on the medium prime sucks. So, I'm debating between the large and a an XL with a 35mm stem.

    I know that the reach won't be too long for me. What I'm concerned about is the stand over height. Has anyone ever compared the stand over heights over the XL/Large/medium prime? Obviously the bigger sizes look sightly taller, but it's hard to really know without standing over one first hand.
  • 09-27-2014
    LyNx
    Stand over clearance on the Prime is absolutely amazing, I have an XL and have let guys 5'6" ride it and stand over wasn't the issue with riding it, the 21" ST was and getting the saddle low enough with my setback Thomson post was - don't get me wrong, stand over for that short a rider was tight, but not on very tippy toe tight.

    Just to paint a picture of how much stand over it has, when I'm on it, my knees are above to inline with the top tube at full leg extension and I have a 35.25" inseam and am 6'2". I wouldn't suggest the XL for your height, no matter what length WB you may prefer, a 35mm stem just won't be short enough I don't think for it to fit you, Reach on the XL is 475mm compared to 415mm, so that's 2.4"/60mm difference, Large Reach is 440mm, which is only 1"/25mm more, so going with your 55mm stem should give you the extra room you're looking for.

    [EDIT to add] Pre production frames the standover was taller for the Mediums and the difference between M-XL was not even an inch, but on production it was dropped 10mm on the Medium and up 7mm on the XL, so now 40mm difference between them.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Brandonf View Post
    Reviving this threadů

    I currently have a medium prime with a 55mm stem. I'll post a picture shortly. I love the bike overall but I'm really regretting getting the medium. I'm 5' 11" and the reach is ok. A bit cramped but manageable. My main complaint is the short wheelbase. I love long wheelbase bikes (49" wheelbase on my large M9 and have a size large 49.5" WB 2015 glory on its way to replace the M9) and the 45.6" wheelbase on the medium prime sucks. So, I'm debating between the large and a an XL with a 35mm stem.

    I know that the reach won't be too long for me. What I'm concerned about is the stand over height. Has anyone ever compared the stand over heights over the XL/Large/medium prime? Obviously the bigger sizes look sightly taller, but it's hard to really know without standing over one first hand.

  • 09-27-2014
    Brandonf
    My dropper post is almost exactly 3.5" out of my 17.5" medium frame. So, with the 21" XL frame, my seat post will be slammed to achieve this same height. I never run my seat any lower than this, but it is nice to have the option regardless.

    The large would definitely be a "safer" choice. Something with the large's 19" seat tube and a 460mm reach would be perfect for me. I could always just get the large, but when you look at new bikes like the reign 27.5 and GT sanction, the large prime has a similar or shorter reach than those mediums. I think I'll wait until my Large 461mm reach glory arrives, spend some time on that, and make a decision. Before test riding the glory, I was worried I'd find it way too big. Well, turns out it's the most comfortable bike I've ever rode and I bought one.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Stand over clearance on the Prime is absolutely amazing, I have an XL and have let guys 5'6" ride it and stand over wasn't the issue with riding it, the 21" ST was and getting the saddle low enough with my setback Thomson post was - don't get me wrong, stand over for that short a rider was tight, but not on very tippy toe tight.

    Just to paint a picture of how much stand over it has, when I'm on it, my knees are above to inline with the top tube at full leg extension and I have a 35.25" inseam and am 6'2". I wouldn't suggest the XL for your height, no matter what length WB you may prefer, a 35mm stem just won't be short enough I don't think for it to fit you, Reach on the XL is 475mm compared to 415mm, so that's 2.4"/60mm difference, Large Reach is 440mm, which is only 1"/25mm more, so going with your 55mm stem should give you the extra room you're looking for.

    [EDIT to add] Pre production frames the standover was taller for the Mediums and the difference between M-XL was not even an inch, but on production it was dropped 10mm on the Medium and up 7mm on the XL, so now 40mm difference between them.

  • 09-27-2014
    FM
    Man going from a M to an XL at 5'-11" just doesn't seem right. Large makes sense.
    Totally subjective though. Maybe you got ape arms and double jointed elbows.
  • 09-27-2014
    Brandonf
    It is a pretty extreme jump. I probably will settle for the large. I could always run an angleset or offset shock bushings to push the front tire out a bit farther.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Man going from a M to an XL at 5'-11" just doesn't seem right. Large makes sense.
    Totally subjective though. Maybe you got ape arms and double jointed elbows.

  • 10-02-2014
    RideEverything
    7 Attachment(s)
    A Treasure Trail, indeed!

    A lot of steep rock lines on this trail.
    Attachment 928406

    Also, some fun drops.
    Attachment 928407

    Attachment 928408

    Here I'm using all of what the suspension has to offer! While riding this trail I realized after bottoming the fork harshly several times I need to up the air pressure; small bump sensitivity and sag percentages be damned!
    I also think I need to get me some spacers for the CCDBa to have the compression ramp up quicker or suffer riding a really firm shock with only about 5% sag!
    Attachment 928409

    There's a lot of wood on this trail for it being a new "new school" trail. Not every builder has forsaken wood. For that I am a very happy mountain biker!
    Attachment 928410

    It's funny how certain photo angles make steep lines really mellow. This is probably the steepest rock face on the trail but it really doesn't look it.
    Attachment 928411

    Here's the same line from a different angle.
    So steep the camera couldn't focus properly!
    Attachment 928412
  • 10-02-2014
    Colin+M
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Brandonf View Post
    It is a pretty extreme jump. I probably will settle for the large. I could always run an angleset or offset shock bushings to push the front tire out a bit farther.

    Crazy good deal on a large Prime and XFusion Vector HLR Air in the classifieds.
  • 10-03-2014
    jonshonda
    Some really amazing looking trails rideverything
  • 10-11-2014
    RideEverything
    Re: Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    The tacky anticipation is about to be rewarded with a new trail!


    I've been riding the bananas out of this bike! Everything is settling in nicely.
    A few small issues have popped up in regards to components. But nothing serious. Just the break-in period, y'know.
  • 10-11-2014
    JACKL
    RideEverything, I'm jealous. Your trails are just incredible.
  • 10-11-2014
    JACKL
    4 Attachment(s)
    Knard on a Prime
    Attachment 930529Attachment 930530Attachment 930531Attachment 930532

    Ok jonshonda, per your request, I mounted up a Knard / Flow Ex to the prime. This tire was run tubeless for a few months so it should be plenty stretched out. For the pics it's got a tube, and I pumped it up to 30psi to make sure it was at full size.

    The tire has a slight rub on the flat brace on the rear triangle, otherwise it has a reasonable amount of clearance. I guess when Banshee says there is room for 2.5 tires, they weren't kidding. Based on what I am seeing with the Knard 3.0, 2.7 would be cake when they start making them. Nice to know.
  • 10-11-2014
    Brandonf
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    A Treasure Trail, indeed!

    A lot of steep rock lines on this trail.

    Here I'm using all of what the suspension has to offer! While riding this trail I realized after bottoming the fork harshly several times I need to up the air pressure; small bump sensitivity and sag percentages be damned!
    I also think I need to get me some spacers for the CCDBa to have the compression ramp up quicker or suffer riding a really firm shock with only about 5% sag!
    There's a lot of wood on this trail for it being a new "new school" trail. Not every builder has forsaken wood. For that I am a very happy mountain biker!

    It's funny how certain photo angles make steep lines really mellow. This is probably the steepest rock face on the trail but it really doesn't look it.

    Here's the same line from a different angle.
    So steep the camera couldn't focus properly!


    For what it's worth, I'm running the large volume spacer inside my ccdb air. I had the same problem you're mentioning. I run the shock quite firm (less than 20% sag) and am really happy with the results. I never bottom harshly anymore and the bike sits nice and high in its travel. It carries much better momentum on rough sections, pedals better, and feels more responsive than when I was running the recommended sag...

    I do run my bikes' suspension very stiff but I recommend everyone with the prime at least give this stiffer setup a try.

    On another note, I went ahead and got an XL frame to replace my medium. I will be running it with the syntace 30mm stem. Maybe I'm crazy for trying to ride an XL at 5'11" but I guess I'll find out. I'm just so sick of my medium's tiny wheelbase.
  • 10-12-2014
    jonshonda
    JACKL, thanks for the effort. What does it look like when you air it down to riding pressure? Have others ridden with a 3.0 Knard and FlowEX? :cool:
  • 10-12-2014
    JACKL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Brandonf View Post
    For what it's worth, I'm running the large volume spacer inside my ccdb air. I had the same problem you're mentioning. I run the shock quite firm (less than 20% sag) and am really happy with the results. I never bottom harshly anymore and the bike sits nice and high in its travel. It carries much better momentum on rough sections, pedals better, and feels more responsive than when I was running the recommended sag...

    I do run my bikes' suspension very stiff but I recommend everyone with the prime at least give this stiffer setup a try.

    On another note, I went ahead and got an XL frame to replace my medium. I will be running it with the syntace 30mm stem. Maybe I'm crazy for trying to ride an XL at 5'11" but I guess I'll find out. I'm just so sick of my medium's tiny wheelbase.

    Wow, this should be interesting, but you've got to go with what you think will work best for you.

    I'm 6'2", and very happy with my XL; an L would have been way too short for me. I'm currently running an 80mm stem, 3/4" setback post (blacklite), and seat all the way back. I'm not in the mountains though.
  • 10-12-2014
    FM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Brandonf View Post
    I'm just so sick of my medium's tiny wheelbase.

    Yeah if it works for you than have at it!

    But... by no stretch is the medium Prime wheelbase "tiny". Mine is well over 46" with a 160mm pike, and that's the longest size M mountain bike I've ever owned.
  • 10-12-2014
    RideEverything
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Brandonf View Post
    For what it's worth, I'm running the large volume spacer inside my ccdb air. I had the same problem you're mentioning. I run the shock quite firm (less than 20% sag) and am really happy with the results. I never bottom harshly anymore and the bike sits nice and high in its travel. It carries much better momentum on rough sections, pedals better, and feels more responsive than when I was running the recommended sag...

    I do run my bikes' suspension very stiff but I recommend everyone with the prime at least give this stiffer setup a try.

    I'm starting to come around to the firmer style of suspension setup.

    I have been upping the air pressure and I think I'm pretty close to having it setup. This is without any volume reducers.
    I do like having the compression set to very supple. So, the higher pressure/firmer ride is handled well by my compression settings.

    I haven't done the math to know what % of sag I have on the shock because I've been using the Cane Creek/Banshee method of millimetres.
    I started with the CC site's listing of 15mm and found I was bottoming way too much. I then went to 13mm which I read about somewhere on this thread. But, that didn't fix the bottoming issue completely. Now I'm running 9.5-10mm of sag and it seems to be pretty close for my style and terrain of riding outside of the park. I still bottom the shock but not harshly and not very often.

    I'm enjoying the bike nerdery of setting the suspension up on the Prime. But, every now and then I'd like to just get out and ride and not have to analyze what's going on with the suspension. I'd like to just ride and not think!


    The fork is good but...
    I'm not really keen on the CTD switch. The settings kind of manage the terrain but I think I could set the fork up WAY better if it just had separate HSC and LSC knobs.
  • 10-13-2014
    aussieprime
    I've received some spacers for my ccdb cs and I'm still experimenting but so far 1 and half large spacers (1 large and 3 small spacers) with a few more clicks of LSC is working a lot better for me. I'll also have a xfusion vector air arriving in a few weeks courtesy of AOK which I can compare to my ccdb cs.
  • 10-30-2014
    RideEverything
    Part 1: The Nerding
    TL;DR: I very much like this bike and have found that it has a few quirks that I'm willing to live with and/or try to tune out of the bike.

    If you'd like to have look into my bike nerdery then read on.


    -
    I've had almost 2 months of solid riding on my Prime now (~4 days/wk) so I thought I'd share my impressions of the bike.

    I like it. I like it a lot.
    I'm not a FanBoi. But, I may be after a full season on it. I'll just have to wait 'til the end of next season.

    So far it has been very capable of everything I've ridden the bike on. I haven't yet found the limit of the bike while riding outside of the Whistler Bike Park.
    On the Whistler valley trails and in Squamish and Pemberton this bike is great. Because the weather has gotten wetter I have started to ride more conservatively. The other factor of toning down the risk is I don't need to go into the winter season broken or hurt.

    -
    Suspension

    Suspension-wise I've had to get used to the action a little bit. I find that there is a very subtle stall in my pedal stroke and/or a rear wheel pause/hang-up when climbing through tech/bumps. Overall it is very supple when pedalling through tech in level terrain and while climbing. But, every now and then there is that slight pause.

    I'm comparing the KS Link Prime to my previous bike which was/is a Fourby4 Knolly Delirium. The Delirium was a caterpillar when it came to climbing. It didn't matter the tech as long as I had the legs it would climb over anything. There was no pause in either the pedal stroke or rear wheel when encountering larger bumps.

    I'm willing to concede that I may not have hit my perfect tune on the CCDBaCS. So, that might be what is causing that slight pause once in a while. Although, I have read pretty much everything I can on the KS Link and other similar mini link type suspensions and have heard that these kind of suspension designs can have the hang-up/pause-like feeling while pedalling through tech. If this is the case then I'm willing to either live with it or, hopefully, tune it out through the setup of the shock.

    Speaking of the CCDBaCS, it is a bike nerd's gift! I have been into nerding out on my bike's details and suspension setup but this is a whole other level. It's almost too much!
    I'm finding myself thinking on every ride now "It does feel pretty good but could I tweak it just a little bit more for that elusive perfect ride quality?".
    I've been writing down every adjustment. I started at the base tune and moved away from it, come back to it, moved away from it, and, now, coming back to the base tune again!
    Like I said too much adjustment nerding!

    That being said I have found that I do use the Climb Switch. I only turn the lever halfway on. I read recently that the switch works at any position giving you the option to set how much platform you want.
    Yes, the KS design offers decent climbing qualities in the full open setting. However, I have found that through tech climbing that with the CS halfway on the back end of the Prime doesn't wallow as much through really tech sections and still has enough suppleness to smooth out those rough tech sections while climbing.

    When descending I have noticed that the rear suspension firms up when I'm braking quite a bit. Generally I'm braking harder when coming in hot to a large chunky tech area. I do have a bad habit of dragging my rear brake through that kind of terrain. So, I can mitigate a little bit of the rear stiffening up by braking sooner and harder for a shorter period of time so that I don't need to drag the brake as much or as long through that kind of terrain.

    Overall the CCDBaCS is a great shock. It does what's advertised and the tuning is unlimited. I just need to find that perfect tune!

    -
    Frame and Pivots

    The frame is stiff. But I already knew that going into my purchase of this frame. The reason that this frame was at the very top of my list is because Banshee is known for making a stiff frame. I'm a big guy who rides aggressively and I need a stiff frame.

    I've been riding the Prime in its slackest setting from the get-go. I'm vaguely interested to see how it feels in the steeper settings. But not enough that I actually want to change the flip chips and adjust my cockpit because of the angle change. So, I'll just keep charging the bike in the slackest setting.
    I don't find that the front end wanders on steep climbs. All that is needed is a shift forward to the nose of the saddle for the really steep climbs. That is why saddles have a rounded nose so you can rest your scranus on it for steep climbs!

    I have been getting a ticking/creaking noise happening in the BB area when under load. I first pulled the BB out and regreased the interface but that didn't solve it. I went over all the bolts in the area and throughout the bike. That didn't get rid of it.
    I finally tracked it down to the two lower pivot points behind the BB. It seems that I had ever so slightly over tightened them and then with all this wet riding and washing the bike off it generated the creak/ticking. At some point I'll pull the axles out of the pivots and grease everything up. But the noise isn't really driving me crazy when I'm out on the trail. It's only when I'm out riding with my child around the neighbourhood that I can hear it.


    -
    Components

    As for my component selection I'm very happy with it. Everything has worked from the moment I bolted them to the frame.

    I have noticed that the carbon bars smooth out the chatter to my hands. What people say about carbon bars is true!

    Carbon wheels paired with a stiffer fork make for a very laser-like ride. The steering is very precise. And, the wheels themselves are very stiff. No lateral flex that I can notice. I love leaning the bike over and cornering hard. I don't feel like I'll fold these wheels in half like on a few of the other 29er wheels that I've been on.
    I've also gone to tubeless. I don't know why I waited so long! I have a DIY setup for tubeless. Gorilla tape and long valves that I cut out of flat tubes that I had kicking around for repair. I mounted the tires up with a floor pump and with the shotgun sound of the last part of the beads snapping in place I was ready to roll.

    The 28T chainring with the 42T OneUp cog was definitely the right choice. I have yet to not be able to climb up anything except for the extremely steep stuff. The only reason I get off and push now is because my legs suck that day!
    I have yet to spin out on the hardest gear. Even my day in the park didn't have me spinning out. All I have to do to go faster is brake less!
    My worry about losing my chain off the chainring has been unfounded. The chainring is the Chromag X-Sync narrow/wide profile. Even with the chain down in the smallest cog while charging through the chop in the park the chain stayed in place. I have yet to lose the chain while riding anywhere else as well.
    The only reason I want to get a guide is for the taco guard. I have grazed the chain/chainring a few times now. That is a sound that sends shivers through me. These chainrings ain't cheap! I want to protect it!

    I love the Chromag Scarab pedals! I was a little concerned about going to new flat pedals because up until the Scarab pedals I have sworn by the Kona WahWah pedals. The WahWahs are very hard to beat. I'm still running the original pair that I started with 5 years ago. And, I've done absolutely nothing to them maintanence-wise! Hopefully, the Scarabs last as long.
    I love the feel of the Scarabs under foot. The pin placement that I have set up is great and there is no chance of an unwanted foot come-off.

    The X0 Trail brakes have worked as they should. Great modulation and stopping power. No fading on all of the crazy big descents I've done. And, they match the colour scheme of the bike! What more could you ask for!

    The only thing I'm missing is a dropper post. I plan to pick up the 150mm Lev in the new year.
    Damn, do I miss having a dropper post!!
    To anyone out there who thinks it's a luxury and unnecessary you're either riding somewhere completely flat or you don't need to own a Prime. Or, any kind of bike that is meant to be rallied downhill after climbing.


    Wow, I had a lot to share! That's the bike nerd in me trying to get out!


    TL;DR: I very much like this bike and have found that it has a few quirks that I'm willing to live with and/or try to tune out of the bike.
  • 10-31-2014
    Vegard
    Great read :)
  • 10-31-2014
    RideEverything
    Part 2: The Nerding Continues
    I'd like to expand a bit in regards to how the bike rides.
    Rereading my last post I realise I may have come across a little negative when pointing out the suspension characteristics. I'd like to say that the little quirks that I've noticed about the rear suspension are just that, quirks.

    The overall ride of the bike is great. The rear soaks up all of the chatter and manages the big hits and g-outs very well now that I have the shock set up nicely.

    I'm coming from a Kona Honzo, a hard tail, which I rode very hard. Now that I'm back on a FS pedal bike I'm pushing this bike harder. I want to ride all the lines that I felt that I might mess up while on the HT. And, now that I'm back on an FS bike I can generally ride everything faster. My wife has said that while I was on the HT she could keep up to me on the burlier sections of trail. Now I just disappear!

    I may still have to add more air to the shock because of something I have noticed when charging hard through tech. Every now and then my feet would be bounced up off the pedals. Just a small bounce and my feet would be placed back where they were. Not a feeling you want to have regardless of how small the foot bounce is!
    What I think is happening after trying to tune that action out but having no success yet is that the shock is already deep into its travel and the next large hit/bump uses what's left very quickly bottoming the shock and then bumping my feet off the pedals a bit. This only happens on steeper downhill tech sections at a faster pace.


    I'm on an XL size frame and it fits great! As a giant I really do feel that I'm "in" the bike rather than perched on top of it.
    However, it is a long bike.
    The length of the wheelbase was noticeable during the first few rides when riding through tight corners and tech sections. Now that I've adjusted to the length and adapted my technique I'm having no issues.
    The other day I rode a trail in Pemberton called NIMBY. It is a climbing specific trail that has a ton a switchbacks. I had no issue navigating the turns. Even the steeper tighter corners.
    The only time now that I'm reminded of the length of the bike is when I get lazy through the tight sections. It's not that I always have to be "on" but I can't just let the bike go where it wants when riding through tight sections. Thankfully the steering precision is very good with the carbon hoops, bars and a stiff fork.

    I'm running 175mm cranks now. On all my other bikes over the past years I've run 170mm cranks.
    Even though the BB height on my Honzo is lower than the Prime I'm finding myself having pedal and crank arm strikes more on the Prime. It will only take a bit of adjustment with being more aware of my pedal stroke timing but it is a bit of a pain. More so because the SRAM X0 cranks didn't come with booties and I'm marking them up on the ends quite a bit. Yeah, yeah, it's just cosmetic but I want to keep it pretty for as long as I can!


    As I mentioned in an earlier post a few weeks ago the Fox Float FIT CTD fork is good. But... I'm finding that I'd rather have separate HSC and LSC dials than just the CTD switch. The damping isn't bad but I'd like it to be setup somewhere between the D setting and the softest T setting.
    I find that for more open faster trails the D setting is good. It soaks up the small chatter at speed well and deals with the bigger hits nicely. But when the trail speed slows down a bit because it has steeper tech sections I find the fork dives a bit on the harder compressions of small transitions.
    The T setting is great for those medium to slower moving tech trails. But, as soon as the trail opens up and the speed picks up the T setting isn't all that great for the higher speed chatter.

    Don't get me wrong the fork is good but I feel limited in how I can set the fork up for my style of riding and the terrain I ride.
  • 10-31-2014
    RideEverything
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Great read :)

    Thanks!

    I feel that I'd like to give back seeing as I devoured everything I could learn about the Prime, the builds and set up when I was looking at buying this frame.

    There is great info in this thread. Although, sometimes the info is a little lacking if you're someone who doesn't want to read every post.
    Because I've read every post and have read a lot of the posters comments in other threads I've built up an idea of how and where people have ridden their bikes.
    That kind of info is gold when trying to compare how you think the bike may ride.

    That being said I realise now that I skipped out on that info in my last two posts!
  • 11-01-2014
    hizzity
    Has anybody used a 150 or 160mm pike on their prime? Looking at upgrading my reba 140 to a pike and thought about a longer travel on and then playing around with the fun chips to get the same geometry but have a bit more travel.
  • 11-02-2014
    LyNx
    Some good feedback RE, as you say, it helps to have this sort of stuff in a thread like this for prospective future owners to build an idea of what and if this bike will suit them. That little occasional feedback/stall when climbing over stuff, I experienced it too, but wasn't sure if it was just the crappy DHXA I had on the Prime, but I also now get it a bit on the Phantom and just accept the slight stall and keep going, has never caused me to not clean a climb or section. It's not consistent either, definitely a certain gear/cog combo that makes it happen.

    I tried my F34 @ 150mm and as you said, just ran it in the high setting to stay with roughly the 67.5* HTA and it worked well, can't say I noticed much of a difference climbing and descending was a bit better, but worth a shot if it was me as a Reba just isn't enough fork for this or any burly bike. Think A2C on the FOx is taller too, so even better if you go with a Pike.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hizzity View Post
    Has anybody used a 150 or 160mm pike on their prime? Looking at upgrading my reba 140 to a pike and thought about a longer travel on and then playing around with the fun chips to get the same geometry but have a bit more travel.

  • 11-02-2014
    FM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hizzity View Post
    Has anybody used a 150 or 160mm pike on their prime? Looking at upgrading my reba 140 to a pike and thought about a longer travel on and then playing around with the fun chips to get the same geometry but have a bit more travel.

    I'm running a 160 pike on mine. At first I wasn't keen on it, but since then I've adjusted and I do like it now. Edit- before 160mm it was set to 150mm... and before that I had a 140mm fox 34.

    I went from +20mm riser bars to flat bars, stem slammed, to keep the bar height in the same range.
    I've never cared for the other flip chip settings, due to the BB height. It's fine in the slack setting. The wheelbase becomes a hair longer- over 46" on my medium. The thing about this set-up, it's really tweaking the Prime towards the steep&rough end. I ended up upgrading the rear shock (from a PUSH rp23 to a Monarch RC3 plus) to keep up with the fork. And I had to learn to ride the front end even more aggressively.

    We have the trails for it here. If I rode smooth stuff more frequently I would go back to 150mm.
  • 11-04-2014
    hizzity
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FM View Post
    I'm running a 160 pike on mine. At first I wasn't keen on it, but since then I've adjusted and I do like it now. Edit- before 160mm it was set to 150mm... and before that I had a 140mm fox 34.

    I went from +20mm riser bars to flat bars, stem slammed, to keep the bar height in the same range.
    I've never cared for the other flip chip settings, due to the BB height. It's fine in the slack setting. The wheelbase becomes a hair longer- over 46" on my medium. The thing about this set-up, it's really tweaking the Prime towards the steep&rough end. I ended up upgrading the rear shock (from a PUSH rp23 to a Monarch RC3 plus) to keep up with the fork. And I had to learn to ride the front end even more aggressively.

    We have the trails for it here. If I rode smooth stuff more frequently I would go back to 150mm.

    Thanks guys! Speaking of forks here's a video of a trail I did last week before the snow came.
    U shoulda MTB - YouTube
  • 11-06-2014
    JACKL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hizzity View Post
    Has anybody used a 150 or 160mm pike on their prime? Looking at upgrading my reba 140 to a pike and thought about a longer travel on and then playing around with the fun chips to get the same geometry but have a bit more travel.

    I just swapped out my 140 Trace for a 150 Pike. Dropouts are in the slack position, and I love the setup. I recorded the HTA and BB change and now unfortunately I apparently lost it. I believe it went about .4 degree slacker, and a little less than 1/4" higher on the BB. I've got a 160 air sleeve and may try that on my next trip to the mountains.
  • 11-08-2014
    RideEverything
    6 Attachment(s)
    The torrential rain of the last few weeks abated for today. So, it was time to get one of the last rides of the season.

    These pictures are from a local loop of two trails just out my door. AM/PM and It's Business Time.

    AM/PM. There's a mix of everything. Steep short tech rock...
    Attachment 937679

    ...and, small jumps where I'm showing some ugly jump technique!
    Behind the bike much?!
    Attachment 937680

    IBT.
    Attachment 937681

    My friend riding a steep rock line with a cliff exposure at the crux corner.
    Attachment 937682

    A lot of me!
    Attachment 937683

    A little bike pr0n because of a stop from a mechanical my friend had.
    Attachment 937684
  • 11-09-2014
    jonshonda
    Looking good. How you liking the derbys?
  • 11-09-2014
    RideEverything
    Part 3: Nerdtastic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Looking good. How you liking the derbys?

    Thanks!

    I'm liking the Derby's a lot.
    I was a little concerned with the weight limit at the beginning. But with my correspondence with Ray/Derby before I ordered them had my worries diminished almost totally. And, now, with some decent riding time on them I feel quite confident that they will withstand the abuses I can dish out on purpose and accidentally.

    I bought the HD 29er rims rather than wait for the DH version that he was still developing/testing at the time I was ready to buy.

    As for how they ride it is a lot of small subtle differences that add up to a larger change in ride quality overall.
    I do think that having stiffer forks (RS Rev to Fox 34) compared to my other 29er and carbon bars (Chromag OSX to BZA) is also contributing to the ride quality. At least at the front of the bike.

    Wheel build quality is also a large factor. I've always understood that in theory but never really had the money to try it out in practice. The Derby's built up on eThirteen hubs are only my second custom built wheels I've ever had. The first custom build was MTX33 with SRAM hubs for my Honzo. All of my other wheels have been factory built or OEM.
    On all of my previous wheels I've always done a hack job at truing the wheels up when they've had wobbles show up. But in the long run I think that cost me more than if I had just taken them in to have them trued and tensioned professionally.

    Wheels have always been my achilles heel on all my bikes because I'm so big and because of how I ride. The longest I've ever had a factory or OEM wheelset stay true is, maybe, 2 weeks. That's both for 26" and 29".
    Anyway, the Derby's have withstood everything so far. And, I think if I stay on top of having them trued and tensioned by the shop I had them built at then I should get a solid life out of them.

    I've been running them tubeless for about 3 weeks now with a DIY set-up. Two strips of Gorilla Tape and long valves cut from pinch-flatted tubes that were waiting for repair. They set-up nicely with a floor pump and have yet to lose any air.
    I'll admit that I don't feel any difference between tubed and tubeless. The only thing that I'm hoping for is to run slightly less pressure and not have the 2 flats a season that I would normally get.
    I don't get the drastic reduction in pressure that I read about people running. Doesn't that slow down how fast the tire rolls? I guess that's why everyone clamours for fast rolling tires!

    Circling back around to the ride quality, there are some subtle differences that can be picked up on.

    I find that if I get a little lazy in directing my bike or not fully trying to hold a line that there is some deflection. It's sort of like being pinged off of the line suddenly. I wouldn't say that it's a drastic change in line but you can definitely feel the wheel being moved to the side. I don't find that it affects the handling it's just something I've noticed.

    You can hold off-camber lines like crazy! If you have the skill to point and hold the bike while traversing off-camber sections of trail the wheels will do your bidding. I found on certain trails with off-camber bits that I'd really have to work to hold the line with other wheels. I guess the flex in the other wheels had me drifting off line.

    I'm not sure if it's the wheels but the ride on the Prime feels smoother. I'm qualifying this because I definitely notice that the carbon bars reduce the vibration transferred to my hands/arms. And, I'm also now riding a FS bike rather than an HT. So, take that comment with a grain of salt.

    Lateral stiffness is what these rims have in spades. Where I notice this is when I get sloppy with my technique in certain situations. The lack of flex has saved me when I'm riding through a steep and tight step down corner. It happens when I've gotten a little crazy with my front brake as my front wheel is turning through the tightest part and basically do an endo to a nose wheelie to finish the turn. The endo portion started with the wheel turned but the wheel doesn't flex which helps me maintain my balance through this awkward mistake of technique.

    As for durability I've only been on the Derby's and my Prime for just under 2 months. So, I can't really comment to that. As I've said earlier I do think they will last well in the long run considering the riding I've done so far.
    I have dinged the sides of the rims off of rocks riding through tech gnar and scratched them. But when I expected a substantial mark because of the force the rock applied, the rims have come away with minor scuffs. Just surface marks.
    When I was running tubes and hadn't quite got my shock set up properly I pinch-flatted HARD! I felt the rim make contact through the tire as I bottomed the shock hard while riding through a jagged rock garden. I flatted almost instantly. I cringed as I got off my bike to inspect the rim. There wasn't a mark to be found!


    TL;DR - I like the Derby rims and feel they are great value for the money.
  • 11-09-2014
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post


    I have dinged the sides of the rims off of rocks riding through tech gnar and scratched them. But when I expected a substantial mark because of the force the rock applied the rims have come away with minor marks. Just surface marks
    ....
    I cringed as I got off my bike to inspect the rim. There wasn't a mark to be found!

    Similar experience here. After a little over a year on my Derbys they have held up perfectly.

    This summer I got loose in a fast corner on my Prime and slammed the rear *hard* into a big square edged rock. Easily the hardest hit I have put on a wheel / rim in a long time. I have no doubt that I would have significantly dented an alloy rim. I was worried that I might have cracked the Derby rim - but the tire was still holding air so I continued my ride. When I got home and washed the mud off I was expecting a nice scratch / gouge in the rim but there was hardly even a surface mark. Impressive! I would not have thought a carbon rim could take a hit that hard without some damage.
  • 11-09-2014
    aussieprime
    Great photos ride everything and I enjoy reading your thoughts on the prime. When I can find some free time I'll include some of my own.

    I managed to have a short ride on the weekend with an xfusion vector air hlr instead of my usual ccdba cs and I'm very impressed with the vector air. Early days yet but the vector air appears to have most of the ccdba cs bump eating ability whilst having a much more lively feel. Much easier to pump and launch jumps. Looking forward to more tuning this weekend.
  • 11-27-2014
    RideEverything
    1 Attachment(s)
    Well, it seems I've changed gear. Literally!
    There won't be any bike photos from me until May, hopefully. If the winter turns to **** the photos may appear sooner.

    I hope the other Prime riders on this thread can post pics to keep the stoke alive!

    This is what I'll be riding for the next 6 months:
    Blackcomb Mountain opened today!
    Attachment 942351
  • 12-18-2014
    RideEverything
    1 Attachment(s)
    Winter is seriously sucking right now on the mountains. Snow, more snow is needed!
    Because of this my brain is still very much in bike mode. I actually mght pull my bike back out and go for a ride!

    Here's some more stoke. This is a shot from when I took the Prime into the Whistler Bike Park to set-up my suspension quickly by doing multiple laps. The photo is courtesy of Coast Mountain Photography trailside photos. I'm on Crank It Up an intermediate jump trail.
    Attachment 947983
  • 01-14-2015
    keithrad
    That's a cool shot man!
  • 01-15-2015
    dlc
    Still loving my XL. Only thing to make this bike better would be to lose a pound off the frame.

  • 01-18-2015
    jbsocal
    I'm wondering how a DB Inline will be for my Prime build (I weigh 240 lbs), any Clydes out there running one?

    I'm going to sell my Prime prototype after I get the new prime built, I'm running a CCDB Air on it (gonna keep the CCDB Air and put it on my PBJ).
  • 01-19-2015
    Willyswildride
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    I'm wondering how a DB Inline will be for my Prime build (I weigh 240 lbs), any Clydes out there running one?

    I'm going to sell my Prime prototype after I get the new prime built, I'm running a CCDB Air on it (gonna keep the CCDB Air and put it on my PBJ).

    I am using the CCDB CS Air on my Spitfire. I am also 240. I found it was too soft initially. In either the Prime or Spitfire forum, I found that some guys were using the CC Air Volume spacers. I installed one of the fat ones in my shock and its perfect now. I am using the base tune and about 200 lb of pressure. The hard part was finding a set of air volume spacers. Installing it was simple, there is a vid on the CC site and youtube.

    Cheers,
    Mike
  • 01-21-2015
    NoStyle
    Hello everybody :-)

    I┤ve read about some rumors the Prime gets some slightly changes in 2015, 0,5 deg slacker head angle and 10mm more rear travel. Can anybody confirm this?
  • 01-21-2015
    evasive
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    That would be fine with me. Maybe I'll upgrade from the pre-prod this year. I can wait a few months, though. At the moment I'm too busy skiing and working on our upcoming race season.
  • 01-21-2015
    NoStyle
    Well, my german Banshee Distributor gave already info: 5mm more travel for the 2015er Prime, the rest will remain the same.
  • 01-21-2015
    LyNx
    To me that would make a lot of sense to help further differentiate it from the Phantom not only in travel, but also a bit slacker geo, also help balance it a bit more with the 150-160mm forks people seem to like to run on them. Haven't heard anything myself.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hello everybody :-)

    I┤ve read about some rumors the Prime gets some slightly changes in 2015, 0,5 deg slacker head angle and 10mm more rear travel. Can anybody confirm this?

  • 01-21-2015
    NoStyle
    LyNx, you might be right from your experience. So far the geometry is going to be unchanged in 2015, 5mm travel only ...
  • 01-26-2015
    Placek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Well, my german Banshee Distributor gave already info: 5mm more travel for the 2015er Prime, the rest will remain the same.

    NoStyle - any link about above?
    Can You share Your local Banshee distr? Is that also so hard to order Prime in DE? (PL distr has info that ordered frame can come on April but basing on their expirience it might be delayed even till Sept...)
  • 01-26-2015
    NoStyle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    NoStyle - any link about above?
    Can You share Your local Banshee distr? Is that also so hard to order Prime in DE? (PL distr has info that ordered frame can come on April but basing on their expirience it might be delayed even till Sept...)

    Hi Placek, here┤s a quote of Bernhard aka "haha" taken from the german mtb-news.de Banshee-gallery, mentioning the plus 5mm rear travel in post #6740 (german language):
    Banshee Bikes Galerie for all :-) | Seite 270 | MTB-News.de

    Here┤s a link to the german Banshee distributor, which is Bernhard Jacobi:
    Everyday26
    Please check out if he┤s got some Primes in stock.

    To put an order itself is not the problem, but it could happen that frames are simply out of stock and are in production-run, plus delivery-time that can cause some delay ...
  • 01-26-2015
    Placek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Well, my german Banshee Distributor gave already info: 5mm more travel for the 2015er Prime, the rest will remain the same.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hi Placek, here┤s a quote of Bernhard aka "haha" taken from the german mtb-news.de Banshee-gallery, mentioning the plus 5mm rear travel in post #6740 (german language):
    Banshee Bikes Galerie for all :-) | Seite 270 | MTB-News.de

    Here┤s a link to the german Banshee distributor, which is Bernhard Jacobi:
    Everyday26
    Please check out if he┤s got some Primes in stock.

    To put an order itself is not the problem, but it could happen that frames are simply out of stock and are in production-run, plus delivery-time that can cause some delay ...

    Understood - however 4months of delay (top biking season) might be frustrating a bit:)
  • 01-26-2015
    NoStyle
    Yes, of course it is! Back in 2012 I ordered in late June and received my (Spitfire)-frame in december. As far as I know it was the very first batch of V2 Runes and Spitfires for all european distributors/dealers ... ! ;)
    It all depends on if there is a product-run right now. If so then delivery in april should be possible. Remembering last year people had put their order in december/january and received frames in april/may, just before season started ... :)
  • 02-18-2015
    Enel
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread


    Still ticking. Still very pleased with this bike.
  • 02-18-2015
    AOK
    Production Prime Photo/Build thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Enel View Post


    Still ticking. Still very pleased with this bike.

    Good stuff! Glad to see you checking in.
  • 02-18-2015
    unrooted
    I'm still liking mine, had it for a year so far. Going to Moab in April, that should be a BLAST!
  • 02-18-2015
    RideEverything
    6 Attachment(s)
    I got out for my first ride of 2015 today.
    You'd never guess that it's the middle of February from these pictures!
    I'm still getting to know the bike and enjoying that very much!

    Just for a frame of reference, normally at this point in the Winter season all these trails in the Whistler valley are under 1.5m to 2m of snow!

    A little mid afternoon sun to let this beauty shine!
    Attachment 965680

    It's February, right!?!
    Attachment 965679

    Attachment 965678

    Attachment 965677

    Attachment 965676

    Attachment 965675
  • 02-19-2015
    Placek
    Guys

    As there is a big change i will start to build Prime, i have some questions before frame order.

    As I'm 6,25 and 40 Inseam - almost 90% sure XL would fit me best ? Have ridden L only and managed to hit end of bars twice.
    Secondly:

    I see majority of builds is made based on CCDB. Is there anything wrong going with CCI (CS) - as im 185lbs geared up and prefer rather rocky/rooty than jumpy terrain. (do i loose anything by going with CCDBI, any difference in work,sensitivity ? )
  • 02-20-2015
    RideEverything
    Placek, I'd guess that the XL would work for you since you'd need a tall saddle height because of your inseam.
    You just need to figure out whether the Reach of the XL size will be okay depending on your torso and arm measurements.

    I'm 6'6 and have almost a 38" inseam. The XL size works for me but my size is different to you.

    I can't comment on your shock question because I've only ridden the CCDBaCS on my Prime and no other type of air shock.