Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 401 to 500 of 716
  1. #401
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    244
    Trying to figure out my drivetrain for new Paradox frame build and could use a bit of help.

    I'd like to get a Race Face Turbine crankset, 2x10 with a nice low granny gear. Which model should I get? I'd like to run a bash guard with it too. I think I can just order a separate Race Face guard to cover the bigger of the 2 rings, but I'm not entirely sure.

    I'm going to use an xt or xtr rear derailleur shadow plus and xt or xtr front. What size cage and what FD do you recommend using?

    I've got everything else sorted out. Going to be a cool ride when done.

    Thanks for any assistance, I appreciate it.

  2. #402
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21,278
    Well for me I always have liked the short cage RDs from Shimano, even running a triple crank setup (just need to be a bit more careful with setup and shifting), and for sure going for a 2X setup I'd definitely get the short cage version.

    Can't help you with the RF Turbine crank, but I could point you to a steal of a deal on a 10spd SLX crank. You'll need to have or buy the BB for it though, but they're pretty cheap. Take a peak about that site and you can find loads more of that OEM SLX stuff for pennies

    Quote Originally Posted by Nail Every Trail View Post
    Trying to figure out my drivetrain for new Paradox frame build and could use a bit of help.

    I'd like to get a Race Face Turbine crankset, 2x10 with a nice low granny gear. Which model should I get? I'd like to run a bash guard with it too. I think I can just order a separate Race Face guard to cover the bigger of the 2 rings, but I'm not entirely sure.

    I'm going to use an xt or xtr rear derailleur shadow plus and xt or xtr front. What size cage and what FD do you recommend using?

    I've got everything else sorted out. Going to be a cool ride when done.

    Thanks for any assistance, I appreciate it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Paradox Updated for 2012-shor-cage-rd-paradox.jpg  

    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  3. #403
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    shimano doesn't make a true short cage except in saint. the rest of them are medium cage, they are no where near as short as sram shortcage rear deraillers and i wouldn't run a true sram short cage with a triple set up and even a double is a stretch on a full sus bike

    most shimano stuff is designated gs(medium) and sgs(long) the saint comes is ss(short) and now the zee group does too, but it's hard to find any other shimano mtb rear in ss. in the past before saint the dh guys ran road cassettes and road rear deraillers with short cages if they were shimano guys

    The picture lynx has put up is a medium cage rd, not a short. Medium is what to run with a double up front. Slx is the best value crankset out there. I'd go that over race face. Just my 2cents on it. I think the slx double with bash and bb is about $130 from crc
    Last edited by qbert2000; 01-09-2013 at 05:30 PM.

  4. #404
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    50
    What type of FD are you using?
    I had a Shimano XT 9-speed direkt mount an there is not enough space between tire and the FD, in my opinion. On my 2soulscycles SlimJim it was ok. Is the Sram FD different. I think about to modify the Shimano and cut of the down pull thing... then it will fit I think.

  5. #405
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21,278
    Yeah, that's the fix for those FDs. Sadly the damn manufacturers seem to think it's a great idea to build and introduce a zillion different designs and confuse the living hell out of consumers - there's something like 40 or 50 different FDs out there in terms of design and fit
    Quote Originally Posted by Kreisel View Post
    What type of FD are you using?
    I had a Shimano XT 9-speed direkt mount an there is not enough space between tire and the FD, in my opinion. On my 2soulscycles SlimJim it was ok. Is the Sram FD different. I think about to modify the Shimano and cut of the down pull thing... then it will fit I think.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  6. #406
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ronnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,184
    Quote Originally Posted by Kreisel View Post
    What type of FD are you using?
    I had a Shimano XT 9-speed direkt mount an there is not enough space between tire and the FD, in my opinion. On my 2soulscycles SlimJim it was ok. Is the Sram FD different. I think about to modify the Shimano and cut of the down pull thing... then it will fit I think.
    When I first built up my bike I fitted a XT nine speed. The nine speed is designed for a three ring crankset and therefore has a fairly long cage which got very close to the rear tire. I then fitted a XT 10 speed derailleur which is designed for two rings. I use it with a 9 speed front shifter and it works well. It does take a bit more adjustment though. I would also recommend cutting off the down-pull lever.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Paradox Updated for 2012-img_1580.jpg  

    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  7. #407
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by Kreisel View Post
    Here it is:
    Veery nice. The waiting was worthy!!!

    Please tell us, what build you think to put on this bike?
    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  8. #408
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    50
    @LyNx and Ronnie: Many thanks for your answers.
    I have both XT FDs, the 9 speed and also the 10 speed. On my SlimJim I used the 9 speed but I thought about to take the 10 speed, it would fit much better.

    @Helmetless and all:
    For me the build is very easy. I only have to put the parts from the SlimJim to the Paradox:
    http://fstatic3.mtb-news.de/img/phot...IMGP0127.JPG?0

    Frame: Banshee Paradox (what else...)
    Fork: RS Reba RLT TI 140 mm (with option to change to 120mm)
    Headset: Hope
    Stem: Syntace 149 75mm
    Bar: Syntace Vector 31.8 7075 12°
    Seatpost: Syntace Alu P6
    Saddle: Selle Flite Titanium (from 1997...)
    Brakes: Avid Juicy 5
    Shifters: X0 GripShift 3x9
    Grips: Syntace Moto
    Crankset: Shimano XT triple, 22/32 + Truvativ Stylo AM Bashguard
    Cassette: Shimano XT 9 speed 11-34
    RearD: Sram X9
    FrontD: Shimano XT 9 speed or 10 speed (as recommended)
    Chain: Shimano LX
    Hubs: Hope Pro 2 evo
    Rims: Mavic TH719
    Tires: Schwalbe NobbyNic 2,25 (rear), 2.35 (front)
    Pedals: Shimano 545 (not 524)

  9. #409
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    What's wrong with your 2Souls Slim-Jim? That's one frame I'm still lusting after.
    konahonzo

  10. #410
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    What's wrong with your 2Souls Slim-Jim? That's one frame I'm still lusting after.
    Everything is ok with the SlimJim but in the moment I believe that the Paradox fits just a bit more. I will test it in the next time. Here in my region of Germany I ride more AM than EN/FR. Thatīs the reason why I also try the Paradox...

  11. #411
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    Quote Originally Posted by Kreisel View Post
    Everything is ok with the SlimJim but in the moment I believe that the Paradox fits just a bit more. I will test it in the next time. Here in my region of Germany I ride more AM than EN/FR. Thatīs the reason why I also try the Paradox...
    Very well, looking forward to your review comparison. What size what your SJ? Large?
    konahonzo

  12. #412
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    50
    Itīs an XL.
    With my 188cm I was between large and xlarge.
    And because of my riding style (more or less AM) I thought the xlarge would be perfect, and it nearly is...

  13. #413
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    Quote Originally Posted by Kreisel View Post
    Itīs an XL.
    With my 188cm I was between large and xlarge.
    And because of my riding style (more or less AM) I thought the xlarge would be perfect, and it nearly is...
    Seems like you're in between again for the Paradox L and XL lol.

    The Paradox will definitely be a smaller bike, looking at the geometry, the L Paradox will be about 25mm shorter in reach and ETT from the XL SJ.
    konahonzo

  14. #414
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    50
    Yes, your right. But I think that the large Paradox would fit perfect.

  15. #415
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    244
    POLL:

    Cable color for black Paradox? Black,white, or silver?

    Running white Tower pro fork, white saddle, white charger pro rims, xt silver drivetrain and brakes, red Race Turbine handlebars,silver water cage.

    Thank you fashionmeisters !

  16. #416
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by Nail Every Trail View Post
    POLL:

    Cable color for black Paradox? Black,white, or silver?

    Running white Tower pro fork, white saddle, white charger pro rims, xt silver drivetrain and brakes, red Race Turbine handlebars,silver water cage.

    Thank you fashionmeisters !
    Just a humble opinion here... my vote is White!!!

    btw blue does look good matching a black frame. Mine has brand new jagwire ripcords in SID blue color and looks nice
    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  17. #417
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    50
    I prefer black...

  18. #418
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    315
    Quote Originally Posted by Kreisel View Post
    I prefer black...
    word. colored housing is gay

  19. #419
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    word. Colored housing is gay
    +1111
    konahonzo

  20. #420
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    word. colored housing is gay
    What this one supposed to mean? Is it scientically proven or you wanted to pronounce
    out loud how male you are (got some issues?)
    or you wanted to ridicule those who like colored housing
    but non the less are straight while off the bike?

  21. #421
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    Quote Originally Posted by adrisuta View Post
    What this one supposed to mean? Is it scientically proven or you wanted to pronounce
    out loud how male you are (got some issues?)
    or you wanted to ridicule those who like colored housing
    but non the less are straight while off the bike?
    He meant this
    konahonzo

  22. #422
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    244
    ha, didn' t mean to create such an uproar with my poll. Seriously, I guess I am out of touch when it comes to bicycle accessorizing. I thought white or silver cables might be a fun change of pace, but I don' t want to jeopardize my heterosexuality. It' s just not worth the risk, especially if my wife found out.

  23. #423
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    Quote Originally Posted by Nail Every Trail View Post
    ha, didn' t mean to create such an uproar with my poll. Seriously, I guess I am out of touch when it comes to bicycle accessorizing. I thought white or silver cables might be a fun change of pace, but I don' t want to jeopardize my heterosexuality. It' s just not worth the risk, especially if my wife found out.
    it'd be worse if you rode with no seat

  24. #424
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    50
    Lol

  25. #425
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    word. colored housing is gay
    Myth.

    In my personal case must say I am an ocd biker, or fashion biker in a way (if you wanna call me that), but my pants are always behind the skirts!!!!
    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  26. #426
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508

    Day one of build done...need more parts

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_3725.jpg

  27. #427
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DanoXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    58
    Hey Guys

    Just got myself a Banshee Paradox V2 frame and I'm in the process of building her up.
    Ive got all the parts except the Fork.
    Im gunna have full XT 10 speed drivetrain with SLX brakes,Sunringle Black flag pro wheelset,fat tyres short stem and wide bars. Plus I might use either a reverb or KS dropper seatpost.
    About the fork im not sure what to get.
    Ive narrowed it down to these three.
    # rockshox Sid RCT3 120mm
    #Fox Float 29 120mm CTD
    #Manitou Tower pro 120mm

    All are a 2013 model and have a tappered steerer and a 15mm thru axle.
    Im not concerned about the price Im just after the best matching one for this bike.
    What do you guys think would be best?
    My riding style is more on the aggressive side of XC but Im not a very heavy guy only weigh 160 pounds. I like to pop off all manner of terrain and often hit 2-3 foot drops. This bike will be my "XC' bike.
    I have a 6 inch dually that I use for the more rocky technical stuff.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Paradox Updated for 2012-photo1859.jpg  


  28. #428
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21,278
    I'm not cheap, but I don't like paying more than I need to for a product, hence out of those I'd say the Tower (Minute) would be my choice - loads of clearance in the arch, great damepening, much lower price tag than the others. This being said I'd also suggest you check out the X-Fusion stuff, for great bang for your $$. The new TRACE fork comes with 34mm stanchions and a slick ano coating, can be run anywhere from 140mm down to 80mm through internal travel adjust or you can get an external DLA model to do 140/110 and there's even a Uni-Crown version for a bit more $$, which should shave a bit of weight an eliminate any possibility of a squeaky crown/steerer interface. First Look! 2013 X-Fusion Forks, Hilo SL Dropper Post and the 165g Microlite Rear Shock! - Bike Rumor
    Quote Originally Posted by DanoXC View Post
    Hey Guys

    Just got myself a Banshee Paradox V2 frame and I'm in the process of building her up.
    Ive got all the parts except the Fork.
    Im gunna have full XT 10 speed drivetrain with SLX brakes,Sunringle Black flag pro wheelset,fat tyres short stem and wide bars. Plus I might use either a reverb or KS dropper seatpost.
    About the fork im not sure what to get.
    Ive narrowed it down to these three.
    # rockshox Sid RCT3 120mm
    #Fox Float 29 120mm CTD
    #Manitou Tower pro 120mm

    All are a 2013 model and have a tappered steerer and a 15mm thru axle.
    Im not concerned about the price Im just after the best matching one for this bike.
    What do you guys think would be best?
    My riding style is more on the aggressive side of XC but Im not a very heavy guy only weigh 160 pounds. I like to pop off all manner of terrain and often hit 2-3 foot drops. This bike will be my "XC' bike.
    I have a 6 inch dually that I use for the more rocky technical stuff.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  29. #429
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DanoXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm not cheap, but I don't like paying more than I need to for a product, hence out of those I'd say the Tower (Minute) would be my choice - loads of clearance in the arch, great damepening, much lower price tag than the others. This being said I'd also suggest you check out the X-Fusion stuff, for great bang for your $$. The new TRACE fork comes with 34mm stanchions and a slick ano coating, can be run anywhere from 140mm down to 80mm through internal travel adjust or you can get an external DLA model to do 140/110 and there's even a Uni-Crown version for a bit more $$, which should shave a bit of weight an eliminate any possibility of a squeaky crown/steerer interface. First Look! 2013 X-Fusion Forks, Hilo SL Dropper Post and the 165g Microlite Rear Shock! - Bike Rumor
    Hey LynX

    Thanks for the quick reply mate.

    Yeah, the X-fusion Trace forks were my original choice but my Bike parts supplier informed me that prodution models have been knocked back further. So theres no proper estimated time for release.
    I was steering towards buying the Manitou Tower fork because ive read nothing but glowing reviews on them but they just didnt have the fancy big brand name behind them.
    But at the end of the day its all about the performance on the trail and with the cash I'll save I'll probably get a dropper post.
    Cheers,
    Dan

  30. #430
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508

    Waiting (impatiently) for spokes/nipples now

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_3739.jpg

  31. #431
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    147

    Re: Paradox Updated for 2012

    Mr 68 and danon, looks like both of you have some awesome builds going. I got a complete build but just put some bling on it. Check pics from stock to now, pretty happy with how she looks for now but have a couple small ideas. Red zips for cable housing, removing rim stickers....

    Danon the tower rocks, im 195lbs use it for racing xc and hit drops up to 4ft so far no problems. Anno red cap might not go with your blue theme tjough...

















    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

  32. #432
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    147

    Re: Paradox Updated for 2012

    Mr 68 and danon, looks like both of you have some awesome builds going. I got a complete build but just put some bling on it. Check pics from stock to now, pretty happy with how she looks for now but have a couple small ideas. Red zips for cable housing, removing rim stickers....

    Danon the tower rocks, im 195lbs use it for racing xc and hit drops up to 4ft so far no problems. Anno red cap might not go with yout blue theme though....







    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Paradox Updated for 2012-uploadfromtaptalk1360255004598.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-uploadfromtaptalk1360255021017.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-uploadfromtaptalk1360255037180.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-uploadfromtaptalk1360255052182.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-uploadfromtaptalk1360255069389.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-uploadfromtaptalk1360255082428.jpg  


  33. #433
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    495
    Nothing wrong with the Manitou Tower 120mm.

    Check out my build pictures.

    Parodox build tips please - Page 2

    I just got a set of wide Blackspire riser bars in PC white. I think I will cut them down the same width as the current Race Face bars which are pretty much the right width.

  34. #434
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,317
    Snagged a ver2 Paradox the other day, starting to stockpile parts for the build but really just need a front fork and front wheel that will take a thru axle.
    Looking like it's going to be the same mixed XT/X9 build that I've got on my Access9r, Thomson cockpit, Truvativ boobars. Went really cheap on the Access build to see if I'd dig 29ers so having a nice new frame will no doubt further the upgradeitis.

  35. #435
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DanoXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    58
    Bike looks great Steineken. I see alot of guys running the Tower forks on the Paradox but I think I'll try something different. I'm gunna go with a 2013 Rockshox Sid RCT3 120mm.

  36. #436
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    :|

    XTR FD-M986-D (direct mount 2X10) rubs bad with 2.35 Nobby Nics. Plenty of frame clearance though.

    Any ideas/confirmed 2X10 Shimano FD's that work?

  37. #437
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ronnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,184
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    :|

    XTR FD-M986-D (direct mount 2X10) rubs bad with 2.35 Nobby Nics. Plenty of frame clearance though.

    Any ideas/confirmed 2X10 Shimano FD's that work?
    I think I've posted this picture before. I've got a XT 786 with a Nobby Nic 2.25. I cut the arm for bottom pull fitting of with a Dremel and there is sufficient space. I've never tried a 2.35 on the back. I'd like to but is does look a bit tight. Not so much in the frame but as far as the derailleur spacing is concerned.

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_1580.jpg
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  38. #438
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Thanks Ronnie for the quick response. I just cut the arm off the derailleur and now the center knobs have plenty of space but the side knobs are still hitting the coil spring/spring cover around the lowest pivot. I thought about cutting off/down all the right side knobs but figured there might be a time or two I'd like to turn right.

    I definitely want to keep the 2.35's, and I wouldn't mind having space for the new 2.5" Minions for rough trails. 99% sure I'm going to just suck it up and go 1 X 10. I'm bummed about loosing the range I would have gotten with the 26/38, but I think I'll be able to live with a 32T.

    Maybe I can give up 2.35's on the Paradox when I get my 6" full squish...
    Proponent for an Evidence Driven Life.
    Occupation: Disposable gene transfer machine
    Current HTFU status: 4/10; increasing

  39. #439
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21,278
    I suggest that if you're running an external BB crankset to just add a 2.5mm spacer to the drive side to space the cranks out further and give the FD a bit more room. If you're running a double there's absolutely nothing bad to this as it will actually improve the chainline for the 2X setup, if it's a tripple will have to watch you Big Ring combos for cross chaining.

    Also if I'm not mistaken, some of the 2X specific cranksets already have this built it to put the spiders further outboard, think SLX.

    The new Direct Mount FD design helps in some ways, but hinders in others. I have the original Paradox and am using an old XT M750 FD and it has decent clearance with the 2.55" WW LT outback, I also do the extra 2.5mm spacer thing as well which adds a bit more.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    Thanks Ronnie for the quick response. I just cut the arm off the derailleur and now the center knobs have plenty of space but the side knobs are still hitting the coil spring/spring cover around the lowest pivot. I thought about cutting off/down all the right side knobs but figured there might be a time or two I'd like to turn right.

    I definitely want to keep the 2.35's, and I wouldn't mind having space for the new 2.5" Minions for rough trails. 99% sure I'm going to just suck it up and go 1 X 10. I'm bummed about loosing the range I would have gotten with the 26/38, but I think I'll be able to live with a 32T.

    Maybe I can give up 2.35's on the Paradox when I get my 6" full squish...
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  40. #440
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508

    Wheels? Done.

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_3744.jpg

  41. #441
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I suggest that if you're running an external BB crankset to just add a 2.5mm spacer to the drive side to space the cranks out further and give the FD a bit more room. If you're running a double there's absolutely nothing bad to this as it will actually improve the chainline for the 2X setup, if it's a tripple will have to watch you Big Ring combos for cross chaining.
    Thanks LyNx!

    Edit:

    ~26.5 pounds minus front 180 rotor, rear 160 rotor and a missing chain.
    Last edited by Mr. 68 Hundred; 02-09-2013 at 05:52 PM.

  42. #442
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508

    Pucker Day is officially over.

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_3749.jpg

    Took 4" off the front brake line, 9" off the rear, final cut on the steerer tube and took 6 cm off my bars. First time doing hydraulic lines and first time cutting carbon; thus the name Pucker Day.

  43. #443
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3749.jpg 
Views:	876 
Size:	100.6 KB 
ID:	770477

    Took 4" off the front brake line, 9" off the rear, final cut on the steerer tube and took 6 cm off my bars. First time doing hydraulic lines and first time cutting carbon; thus the name Pucker Day.
    We expect proper final pics!!!
    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  44. #444
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Quote Originally Posted by Helmetless View Post
    We expect proper final pics!!!
    Will do; hopefully by next week; waiting on saddle and front chainring.

  45. #445
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21,278
    Curious how those carbon bars feel when you get your Prime built. What other bars have you ridden, carbon or alu? I ride the FUNN Fatboy bars on my 2 bikes and find they're super stiff, feel no flex at all, but I did a little ride around on a SJ FSR S-Works and could immediately feel that carbon flex under my paltry 170lbs. Expect the Enve would be a lot stiffer than those SpecialED bars.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3749.jpg 
Views:	876 
Size:	100.6 KB 
ID:	770477

    Took 4" off the front brake line, 9" off the rear, final cut on the steerer tube and took 6 cm off my bars. First time doing hydraulic lines and first time cutting carbon; thus the name Pucker Day.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  46. #446
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    147

    Re: Paradox Updated for 2012

    Thanks danon. The sid will probly save you some weight and the black/ano blue will lool sick on the polished frame. Look forrward to pix

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

  47. #447
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Curious how those carbon bars feel when you get your Prime built. What other bars have you ridden, carbon or alu? I ride the FUNN Fatboy bars on my 2 bikes and find they're super stiff, feel no flex at all, but I did a little ride around on a SJ FSR S-Works and could immediately feel that carbon flex under my paltry 170lbs. Expect the Enve would be a lot stiffer than those SpecialED bars.
    1) Various aluminum bars from the early 90's and later. No real issues but we didn't know anything then.
    2) Scott thermopastic/carbon CC bars; very strong (I think fatigue cycles was their best feature) but noodle like flex; hated them. Didn't realize what the problem was until I got something stiffer.
    3) Replaced them with a mid-range aluminum AM bar, might have been an Easton product. Seemed fine, especially coming from the noodle bars.
    4) Holzfeller's on my STP. These bars I do like and would have been more than happy to put them on this bike but kind of got the ENVE carbon buzz and their bars is what I could afford. I too am looking forward to comparing the ENVEs to the Truvativs. When I bought the ENVEs, I basically assumed they're strong and stiff because Santa Cruz races with them. We'll see.

    Steve

    Edit: Ok, so when you live in BFE, it takes the better part of 2 weeks to get stuff from England; even when paying for DHL delivery. "5 minutes Turkish..."
    Last edited by Mr. 68 Hundred; 02-15-2013 at 06:55 AM. Reason: I live a million miles from no where

  48. #448
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DanoXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by Steineken View Post
    Thanks danon. The sid will probly save you some weight and the black/ano blue will lool sick on the polished frame. Look forrward to pix

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
    No worries mate.
    But Ive changed my mind and bought a different fork. I got a really good deal on a 2012 Marzocchi 44 Micro TI 120mm fork. Im instaling them tomorrow. Will post up pics once complete.
    So ive actaully bought the heaviest 29er fork of the lot. Lol, I hope its plush atleast.

  49. #449
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508

    Commence reactor powerup...

    ...so I can do a proper shakedown run. Need the snow (trail snow, not driveway snow) gone first though :| Anyway, all the parts are installed and it's ready to go; maybe a little tweaking of the chainline left so I might be ordering some longer chainring bolts, but I don't think so. Possibly will be fabricating a chain guide; depends on how well Shimano's clutch works.

    I've only ridden it for a couple of blocks and it seems OK; nothing bad or weird. I've been riding an STP for a couple of years and it seems very similar; just with the big wheel feel and a not-so-cramped cockpit.

    Especially happy about finding the saddle. Couldn't find it anywhere and it appeared to be simply unavailable. Bel-Air with titanium rails in brown straight from CRC along with the Hope IBR (or was it PBR; can't remember). B*tchin'.

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_3795.jpg

    On a side note, I don't know if there's going to be space to run the new Maxxis 2.5" DHF's. Chainstays and seatstays have room but I'm literally 2.2 mm from hitting the seat tube/direct mount with 2.35" NN's. If I hadn't just set them up tubeless, I'd throw the HD on the back to check clearances.

    27 pounds even (+ .1 pounds)
    Last edited by Mr. 68 Hundred; 02-22-2013 at 06:06 PM. Reason: added weight
    Proponent for an Evidence Driven Life.
    Occupation: Disposable gene transfer machine
    Current HTFU status: 4/10; increasing

  50. #450
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Nice bike up there!!! that saddle is really cool. Matches with kashima coat pretty well
    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  51. #451
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Thank you H-less; I was thinking the same thing with the Kashima; looks even better in person.

    Chainline is finalized; had tried to center the chainring more (with 1.0 mm of spacers) compared with the cassette but the chain kept catching the teeth of the 13T when the chain was on the 11T and I pedaled backwards. To truly center the ring, I would have needed 5 mm of spacers (to move the chainring towards the midline of the bike), but that was very clearly not going to work.

    Steve

  52. #452
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3744.jpg 
Views:	235 
Size:	124.2 KB 
ID:	770193
    hey! Is it for rear or front?

  53. #453
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Front; I put a 2.35" Nobby Nic on the rear. PLENTY of chain/seatstay clearance. Very small clearance to the direct mount; zero clearance to my front derailleur, which is why I'm 1 X 10 now.

  54. #454
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    :|

    XTR FD-M986-D (direct mount 2X10) rubs bad with 2.35 Nobby Nics. Plenty of frame clearance though.

    Any ideas/confirmed 2X10 Shimano FD's that work?

    I ride Hans Dampfs 2.35 in the front and the rear with an XT 3x10 drive train and it works fine. I also had to cut off a bit of my FD, but now there is enough clearance; no rubbing at all.

  55. #455
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Just bought a Revelation G2 140mm (RL), just out of curiosity... Wondering if the reduced "trail" will actually be noticed.

    Improvements I saw to get convinced were added tire clearance, g2 (fork crown offset a bit more ahead the bike, 51mm) and travel is 140mm; the latter 2 features, increase a couple mm the whole wheelbase and get the bb a bit higher.

    Only drawbacks would possible be a tiny amount of extra weight and lacking my Reba's low compression adjustment

    Feel free to leave your thoughts on this or if you've tried a G2 in a non-g2 bike already

    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  56. #456
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. It looks like the 1 X 10 is going to be sufficient (yeah, I'm a bad***) Which XT are you using?

    Took mine out for it's first ride/shakedown run today. Bit too much air in the Talus, bit too much air in the tires (26 front, 30 rear), and a bit too much OEM Shimano oil on the chain. Had to limit it to 8 miles because I had my dog with and he was dunzo. Going back tomorrow sans dog to hit the whole 25.

    Comfortable position, though I could use a 90 mm stem (versus the 70 I have on there). I'd prefer if the seat just could go back a bit further but I kind of need a dropper. We'll see.

    It was a lot of fun riding and it did roll over things a lot easier. Less playful than my STP but it felt faster. If I was doing serious tech, I'd use the STP; otherwise, the Paradox. I'll get to move a lot faster without the dog tomorrow and I'm really looking forward to that.

    Plan on dropping the pressure in the Talus, and putting tires at maybe 22F, 25R and see how that feels. With the sand/dust I rode in, need to degrease after this one ride. Full of grit on the sticky shimano oil. Pro-Link to follow.

    LyNx: ENVE bars felt great. I could imagine bars being stiffer; but I have no complaints. They felt really solid.
    Proponent for an Evidence Driven Life.
    Occupation: Disposable gene transfer machine
    Current HTFU status: 4/10; increasing

  57. #457
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    495
    I am running about 22F/26R on mine. Generally 29'ers seem to tolerate lower tyre pressures than 26'ers. I am running NN 2.35 F and Suguaro 2.2 R on Flow rims.

    Also agree with softening up the fork. As a rule of thumb you should be aiming to use your full (120mm?) travel at least once on your average ride. Otherwise you probably have it too stiff or you are carting around more suspension than you need for the terrain.

    I have found the Paradox to be quite playful in the sense of being willing to pick up the front wheel easily with the shortish chainstays and stem I am running (70mm I think). However I tend to run a wider line with the front wheel when cornering.

    All my mtb's are now 29'ers. For the XC style terrain I am riding they simply work best. The Paradox was the most recent purchase replacing a very similar specced Chameleon. i.e. 1x9, 120mm/20mm TA fork, short stem, wide riser bars etc.

  58. #458
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21,278
    @ Helmet - I think with your V2 Paradox you should very much like what the G2 will bring, the offset goes from 48 to 51mm, which if it was the same length fork would feel probably a bit twitchier, but with the added travel/height it will pretty much just make it feel/handle almost the same to your old Reba. Remember, your HTA was 68* and now with the 140mm it is probably closer to 67*, so you need more offset to help keep the steering lively. Also while the slight increase in BB height might hinder fast, smooth cornering, it' will sure make it more fun in the rough stuff when you can continue to pedal a bit more than before.

    @ Mr.68 - Sounds like you're having fun. On the tyre pressures, ready to ride I'm between about 180-185lbs running Stans Flows/Crest and tubed I run about 22-24F/26-28R on most tyres, bit lower tubeless, but not much generally - depends of course on the tyre and if I'm doing specific faster or slower trails and how rocky to fast they are.
    Unlike Ozzy, I don't think you should use all of your travel at least once a ride, 90% is fine leaving you with a cushion for mess ups or bigger hits (especially true if you don't do/have lots of jumps/drops over 2ft) I never go by SAG for my fork setting, I go by feel and to me to use all my travel for most of my riding my fork feels to mushy, but in general my suspension travel usage is actually fairly balanced when I check the o-rings on my fork and shock at the end of a ride.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  59. #459
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    495
    OK, I gotta agree with Lynx on the fork travel settings. I pretty much do the same to avoid the fork being too mushy. You should still be using most of the travel on your fork on an average ride though. Also alot of riders err the other way and run too much air and hence non compliance in both their tyres and suspension.

  60. #460
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Ok, I know this is the Paradox thread but the CDT remote? I LOVE it. Couldn't believe the difference it made and I used it a ton. Not to get too melodramatic but it kind of felt like I was running a 28T or 30T up front instead of the 32T I actually run (when I put it in Climb mode for standing climbs). I. Am. Impressed.

    I'm sub 160 dry; probably 170 geared up. Talus pressure is at 70 psi. I was going to let out another 5 or maybe 10 psi but I got 108 mm travel today, and that was taking it a little easy.

    Back to the Paradox. I feel fine with the 70 mm stem now and I absolutely love how the bike handles. Climbs very well, corners nice, very stable. Tires were at 22F; 25R. I'm tempted to take another pound out of each one to help it feel a bit more planted on the faster sections. There were some sandy/dusty/muddy steep sections on climbs today and the bike just went up (not easy, but it kept moving). I'm nearly positive I wouldn't have made it on a 26."

    A dropper post is definitely needed. The bike will take sharp corners well but you have to Fluidride-Like-a-Pro it. With the seat in the way, it's really tough to get the bike leaned over quickly. If the DOSS is compatible with the Talus remote, I'll get that one, otherwise???

    Anyone know if the DOSS can use the same remote? The Talus remote has space for 2 wires, since I'm on a HT, I don't need it to run 2 shocks. Fox hasn't written back, my research has turned up nil.
    Last edited by Mr. 68 Hundred; 03-03-2013 at 03:38 PM. Reason: Clarify CDT Remote use

  61. #461
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DanoXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    58
    Finished building up my V2 Paradox

    specs are as follows

    Frame - Banshee Paradox V2 ,Medium
    Front shock/fork - 2012 Marzocchii Bomber 44 Micro Ti 29, 120mm
    Handlebars - Answer Pro Taper Carbon, 720mm
    Stem - Chromag Ranger, 70mm
    Headset - Banshee
    Grips - Esi Chunky
    Saddle - Fizik Tundra 2
    Seatpost - Rockshox Reverb
    Brakes - Shimano SLX with 180mm front and 160mm rear rotors
    Cranks - Shimano XT with 30T Widgit
    Chain - Shimano SLX
    Pedals - XTR Trail
    Front derailleur - not needed
    Rear derailleur - XTR Shadow Plus mid cage
    Shifters - XT iSpec
    Cassette - XT 11-36
    Wheels - Sunringle Black Flag Pro
    Tyres - Kenda Nevegal 2.2 front and Kenda Small Block Eight 2.1 rear
    Tubes - none,running tubeless with Stans
    Total Weight - 12.4kg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Paradox Updated for 2012-20130305_101821.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-20130305_101838.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-20130305_102102.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-20130305_102121.jpg  

    Paradox Updated for 2012-20130305_101924.jpg  


  62. #462
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Very nice Dano (though I do think you're a bit of a pansy for running that tiny 30T).

  63. #463
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    22 miles today. AM with ups and downs. It's almost perfect but I'm not sure what it's missing. I'm going to start with a dropper seatpost. It feels, for lack of a better word 'big,' but with a short TT. And trying to lean it over in the corners is tough with the saddle in the way.

    I was kind of hoping it was my amazing skilz (yes, with a 'z,' I'm that good) that I kicked a** on the hairpins today; but, I was riding against an Anthem. Either way, it's fantastic on drops, flowy hardpack, climbs and nimble enough to dodge the big rocks, or bunny hop over them. LOVE it. Wouldn't have minded a (whispering now) 30T up front.
    Proponent for an Evidence Driven Life.
    Occupation: Disposable gene transfer machine
    Current HTFU status: 4/10; increasing

  64. #464
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    @ Helmet - I think with your V2 Paradox you should very much like what the G2 will bring, the offset goes from 48 to 51mm, which if it was the same length fork would feel probably a bit twitchier, but with the added travel/height it will pretty much just make it feel/handle almost the same to your old Reba. Remember, your HTA was 68* and now with the 140mm it is probably closer to 67*, so you need more offset to help keep the steering lively. Also while the slight increase in BB height might hinder fast, smooth cornering, it' will sure make it more fun in the rough stuff when you can continue to pedal a bit more than before.
    Thanks, man! You're always helping me out!! Really appreciated.
    New fork is in!!! It does look like it is too much travel, but I can barely tell the difference tbh. However, steering is noticeably better. Can do shorter range turns. My pedals were safe from my front tire but still was the risk of hitting the tire... now that is next to the impossible. The bike is now larger, and I am loving it. The bridge of the fork (don't know how's the exact name) has better tire clearance then Reba. Also the dna motion control is lighter, so the bike is. Now weighing 12.38kg with flow rims, chris iso front/hope pro 2 evo hubs and revo spokes, and masterpiece post

    Impatiently waiting my wrist is fully recovered to hit the trail again where it has to be done. Hopefully next month, after some "kine"
    Last edited by Helmetless; 03-18-2013 at 08:37 PM.
    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  65. #465
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    102
    hi all, greetins from indonesia. gettin a paradox ordered just wonders, how does the manitou tower pro suits the paradox.

    your insights are highly appreciated

    thanks

  66. #466
    mtbr member
    Reputation: zoro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3795.jpg 
Views:	576 
Size:	117.9 KB 
ID:	774560
    Mr 68 is it a large or medium frame size??

    *****in bike btw, really like the overall look

  67. #467
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    59
    Manitou Tower Plus 120mm - never tried personally but had heard positive opinions. Some even claim this fork to be the best among 120 mm forks.

  68. #468
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DanoXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    58
    Hey all.
    Mr 68, a dropper post is a Must for this sorta bike. This bike likes to jump and no serious jumper will run there post up as high as there XC climbing position.
    I also made a few changes to my bike aswell.
    I lowered the handle bars with a negative 6 degree stem and flat handlebar. I now feel way more comfortable doing out of the saddle sprints and long climbs.
    Plus changed to a Maxxis Ignitor on the rear from a Kenda small block eight.

  69. #469
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21,278
    Just do a search of threads with pics of Paradox's and I think at least 50% of them have a Manitou on them. I've had my Minute for over 5 years now, started out on another bike, then went to the Paradox where it still resides. Very nice fork, nice dampening, stiff, normally can be found for good prices.
    Quote Originally Posted by metajkt View Post
    hi all, greetins from indonesia. gettin a paradox ordered just wonders, how does the manitou tower pro suits the paradox.

    your insights are highly appreciated

    thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by adrisuta View Post
    Manitou Tower Plus 120mm - never tried personally but had heard positive opinions. Some even claim this fork to be the best among 120 mm forks.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  70. #470
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Thank you; it's a large.

    I'm 6' 1/2" tall in my riding shoes. 70mm stem and seat set back as far as possible. I wouldn't mind a bit more standover but it's ok (but haven't smashed a ball yet).

    An issue I'm having now is which dropper post to get. 150 mm is actually too tall/long for me; so i can only have a 125 MAX; 100 would be safer. Suggestions? I live in the land of fine dust so whatever is best for that is best for me; not counting the Gravity dropper; I don't have space for that remote on my bars.

    I've heard good things about the simplicity of the Giant; but I like the LEV remote and have heard excellent things about it's function. But then there's Thomson and I really like the 3 position system of the D.O.S.S.

  71. #471
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    102
    many thanksss for all the inputs on manitou tower

  72. #472
    fan of maple syrup
    Reputation: nuclear_powered's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,581
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. 68 Hundred View Post
    Thank you; it's a large.

    I'm 6' 1/2" tall in my riding shoes. 70mm stem and seat set back as far as possible. I wouldn't mind a bit more standover but it's ok (but haven't smashed a ball yet).
    Just curiously - we are of similar height, and I was wondering if your saddle position in that picture is as high as you go? As in, is that the "full leg extension at maximum stroke" height? Or have you photographed it in a slightly dropped "need to move around my saddle while navigating this gnarly descent" height?

    I ask because I am planning to get one of these frames, and size large seems right in terms of TT length, but your visible seat-tube length looks quite short compared to my current Niner (EMD9), and considering (I think) I have shorter legs, I too am worried about the odd nut-bash. Being in Australia, where it seems Banshee no longer have a distributor, I can't go try one out.

    P.S. I have a early generation KS post (the i900r) on my Nomad, and it's stood the test of time extremely well. Indistinguishable amount of play, and functions pretty well considering I've done zero maintenance on it in about 2.5years and use it thoroughly on every ride. It's a little slow to pop out, but I have no doubt a quick clean & grease will have it functioning perfectly (just have to find that details MTBR thread about servicing this particular seatpost).

  73. #473
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    495
    Quote Originally Posted by nuclear_powered View Post
    Just curiously - we are of similar height, and I was wondering if your saddle position in that picture is as high as you go? As in, is that the "full leg extension at maximum stroke" height? Or have you photographed it in a slightly dropped "need to move around my saddle while navigating this gnarly descent" height?

    I ask because I am planning to get one of these frames, and size large seems right in terms of TT length, but your visible seat-tube length looks quite short compared to my current Niner (EMD9), and considering (I think) I have shorter legs, I too am worried about the odd nut-bash. Being in Australia, where it seems Banshee no longer have a distributor, I can't go try one out.

    P.S. I have a early generation KS post (the i900r) on my Nomad, and it's stood the test of time extremely well. Indistinguishable amount of play, and functions pretty well considering I've done zero maintenance on it in about 2.5years and use it thoroughly on every ride. It's a little slow to pop out, but I have no doubt a quick clean & grease will have it functioning perfectly (just have to find that details MTBR thread about servicing this particular seatpost).
    If you are talking the large frame and you are 6' or over you will have no trouble with the sizing or the standover. I am just under 6' with shortish legs and ride a large Paradox frame with no problems. For comparison I also ride a large in Niner's (Air9, SIR9 hardtails).

    Here is a picture on its first ride.


    Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

    I probably run the seat a bit on the low side. If you are in Brisbane you can have a test ride.

  74. #474
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    My seat height is at a slightly low 'trail' setting in the picture. Max leg extension height (i.e. road bike saddle height) would put the bottom of the rails at very close to 160 mm from the top of the seat tube collar.

    Thanks for the info on the KS.
    Proponent for an Evidence Driven Life.
    Occupation: Disposable gene transfer machine
    Current HTFU status: 4/10; increasing

  75. #475
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,317
    Not sure if this has been covered before, but what has everyone been using as frame protection from cable rub? Seems like standard 3M clear tape would look pretty bad on the matte black finish.

    Normally its nothing I worry about but my frame is almost brand new and I'd like to keep it looking that way.

  76. #476
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ronnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,184
    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Not sure if this has been covered before, but what has everyone been using as frame protection from cable rub? Seems like standard 3M clear tape would look pretty bad on the matte black finish.

    Normally its nothing I worry about but my frame is almost brand new and I'd like to keep it looking that way.
    My black frame is now about a year old and never had a problem. I've never even thought about it. Mind you, if you are talking about rub around the headtube area, I route my cables around to the opposite side and there is no rubbing. I leave them long enough so that there is no rub on the frame when the steering is turned full 90š.

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_1579.jpg
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  77. #477
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    9
    My Banshee Paradox (old version, but I think its okay for this tread):





    Spec:

    Fork: White Brothers BW 1.3, 20mm TA
    Headset: Works Components (-1 degree)
    Cranks: Hammershmidt 36-22 + 11-36 cassette
    Rear der: SRAM X0 short cage
    SRAM X0 Gripshift
    Brakes: Avid Elixir R (180/180 mm)
    Wheelset: Pacenti DL31 rims on Fun Works 4 Way Pro hubs
    Tires: Specialized S-Works Eskar 2.3 (rear) and Shwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35 (front)
    Pedals: Look quartz
    Seatpost: Gravity Dropper Turbo
    Saddle: Specialized Romin EVO
    Handlebar: Syntace Vector 800 мм

  78. #478
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,317
    How are those Pacenti DL31s holding up? I'm currently having some laced up to a set of Hope Pro 2s to go on my Paradox.

    Really nice build, kinda wish I had the polished Paradox but couldnt pass on the deal with the black one I picked up.

  79. #479
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    59
    I second your liking of the polished Paradox. I also went for the black one only to avoid trouble questions.
    With the black version the change of bikes went unnoticed...

  80. #480
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    I have the DL31's on my Paradox as well (w/ 2.35" Schwalbes). Maybe 60-70 pretty hard miles on them and they have some wobbles and hops (but straight enough). I've done a few things I probably shouldn't have and it is pretty rocky where I ride; considering their weight, I'm happy enough with them. Probably will rebuild with a MTX 33 in the rear next time.
    Proponent for an Evidence Driven Life.
    Occupation: Disposable gene transfer machine
    Current HTFU status: 4/10; increasing

  81. #481
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    How are those Pacenti DL31s holding up? .
    Works great, because of its wide it was complicated to inflow TR tires with floor pump, but I used method, when You first mount tire with tube and then it was easy.

  82. #482
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. 68 Hundred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    508
    Quote Originally Posted by Adilka View Post
    Works great, because of its wide it was complicated to inflow TR tires with floor pump, but I used method, when You first mount tire with tube and then it was easy.
    Schwalbe TR with split tube method (and soapy water) aired up with floorpump (Topeak Mountain pump) relatively easy for me. So easy in fact that I felt like a total stud...

  83. #483
    mtbr member
    Reputation: argent81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    11
    Hello , im interested on buy the paradox frame , for my height 5' 9.7"what i need buy ? M or L ? i prefer go downhill than uphill.


    thanks a lot.

  84. #484
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    495
    Quote Originally Posted by argent81 View Post
    Hello , im interested on buy the paradox frame , for my height 5' 9.7"what i need buy ? M or L ? i prefer go downhill than uphill.


    thanks a lot.
    I am a fraction taller and ride a large.

    The decision will probably come down to your proportions of leg length versus arm and trunk length.

    I have a relatively short leg length and long trunk so I went the large because I like and need the longer reach. I also use a set back seat post and run a 70mm stem.

  85. #485
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    9

    sizing + routing

    I more or less have the same question, but I'm 6'; leg length is 32" and I generely prefer smaller frames (more jump/DH than XC background). The build is going to be with 140 Revs, 2.35 NobbyNics and a -1° AngleSet.
    However, I'm afraid the M Paradox is too small, due to its very short reach, but the L is just too big in seat tube length and standover for my type of riding. I would want a M height with L length; but maybe I should just go for a different frame.

    Does the frame actually have dropper post cable routings?

    Thanks a lot for help.

  86. #486
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ronnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,184
    Quote Originally Posted by Trailmosher View Post
    I more or less have the same question, but I'm 6'; leg length is 32" and I generely prefer smaller frames (more jump/DH than XC background). The build is going to be with 140 Revs, 2.35 NobbyNics and a -1° AngleSet.
    However, I'm afraid the M Paradox is too small, due to its very short reach, but the L is just too big in seat tube length and standover for my type of riding. I would want a M height with L length; but maybe I should just go for a different frame.
    Is the 32" your properly measured cycling measured inseam? In other words, stand up against a wall, feet pedal width apart and push a book firmly into your groin as if you are sitting on a saddle. Have someone mark the book against the wall and measure from the floor. I'm 5' 10―" and although I wear 32" leg length Levis, I have a 34" cycling inseam. Because I have longish legs and shorter torso, I prefer a medium. If I was 6' I wouldn't be thinking about it, I'd get a large. I wouldn't even think about seat tube length. How likely are you to be riding with the seat all the way down? The important dimension is effective top tube length.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trailmosher View Post
    Does the frame actually have dropper post cable routings?

    Thanks a lot for help.
    The frame has provision for four full length cable runs under the top tube. Rear brake, rear derailleur, front derailleur so I suppose the fourth one is for a dropper post.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  87. #487
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    9
    Thanks first of all for the fast and competent help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    Is the 32" your properly measured cycling measured inseam? ... although I wear 32" leg length Levis, I have a 34" cycling inseam.
    Your right, the cycling measured inseam is also 34" for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    How likely are you to be riding with the seat all the way down?
    I probably wouldn't on an M, but the L is 2" longer. Thus, it is getting tight to fit a 6" dropper post, which I want to have, in case things get way steep or when hitting some jumps in the bike park. Also the standover is just a little high on the L, which is not good, when going on a downhill track.
    But I probably should follow your advise and go with the L, the top tube on the M is too short.

  88. #488
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    495
    Quote Originally Posted by Trailmosher View Post
    Thanks first of all for the fast and competent help.


    Your right, the cycling measured inseam is also 34" for me.


    I probably wouldn't on an M, but the L is 2" longer. Thus, it is getting tight to fit a 6" dropper post, which I want to have, in case things get way steep or when hitting some jumps in the bike park. Also the standover is just a little high on the L, which is not good, when going on a downhill track.
    But I probably should follow your advise and go with the L, the top tube on the M is too short.
    I was going to ask if you knew it was a 29'er

    But having checked the geo I see your point about the big difference in seat post height.

    I would normally say large and I would normally say get the right frame size and don't compromise on stem length. However in this case there is only 25mm in the ETT length so maybe you could go up 10 or 20mm on the stem length on a medium, say a 70mm (like I run on my large) versus a 50mm.

    Yes there is a spare route for a dropper seat post cable. I am about to fit a Reverb 100mm to mine.

  89. #489
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DanoXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    58
    Just as a referene I'm 174cm with shoes on and I ride a Medium with a 70mm stem. My opinion, at your height theres no way ide ride a Medium. The bike feels pretty small as it is. I like to ride on the aggressive side of things. Pop off of every root, rock I see and like to flick the back end around corners so the bike feels great at my height to do that.If I was 6 foot or more ide go for a Large for sure.

  90. #490
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    9
    I'll probably go with a different frame then. I've taken some measurments today and my current bikes are pretty similar to the geo of the Paradox in M, but as they are more on the dirtjump/ freeride end of the spectrum, I guess that this would be too small for an allmountain ride. However, the L is just too big. Comparing it with my current rides and rideheight, I would barely fit a 5" dropper and due to the higher standover it would probably feel to XC-ish for my taste and riding.
    The M/L size that Chromag has, would be just perfect, but these frames are unaffordable here in Europe.

    Thanks though to everyone for the help.

  91. #491
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    Have you looked at the 2Souls QH / Slim Jim frame out of Germany? Super frame.
    konahonzo

  92. #492
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Have you looked at the 2Souls QH / Slim Jim frame out of Germany? Super frame.
    weird it has a 27.2mm seat tube. i would think that by now that manufacturers would run at least 30.9mm to keep dropper seat post options open. they have a 44mm head tube and iscg05, sucks they stuck with 27.2mm.

    looks bigger than that in the picture though

  93. #493
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    weird it has a 27.2mm seat tube. i would think that by now that manufacturers would run at least 30.9mm to keep dropper seat post options open. they have a 44mm head tube and iscg05, sucks they stuck with 27.2mm.

    looks bigger than that in the picture though
    There's a reason for that. There were initial problems with the chainstay/yokes from the first production of the QH frame, it was released as the Slim Jim (for a few hundred euros cheaper), with reduced tire clearance and the seat tube was shimmed to 27.2. There were some Slim Jims available without the shim to run a proper 30.9 dropper (but if you pulled it out yourself and reamed it properly, your warranty was voided anyway). The reason for the shim from 2Souls was they said with the limited rear tire clearance in the shortest CS configuration (meaning getting kinda tight with a 2.25 Ardent), people would see more compliance in the ride running a skinny 27.2 post. I never really understood their thought process behind this move. I'm running a 31.6 Reverb and a 2.25 Ardent on my Honzo and it rides just fine.

    The QH was just recently released (less than 6 months ago) with the proper specs as originally planned: wide tire clearance in the short CS configuration, no shims, 30.9 seat tube, along with a few other slight changes, but price has increased quite a lot too.

    Why do I know all this? Because the 2Souls QH/SJ was the bike I wanted to build last winter before getting my Honzo. But they never made the XXL size which I wanted, and I wasn't going to pay $1200+ and fear the XL would be too similar to my old TransAM 26er with similar geo. In the end, I saved myself quite a lot with the Honzo, super stoked with my decision, and would buy one again in a heartbeat. BUT if I was in Europe and had a chance to demo one of these 2Souls, I would definitely be interested. Plus dealing with such a small company has been nice as well, they replied to all my emails and believe me, there was quite a few of them.
    konahonzo

  94. #494
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Helmetless's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    My black frame is now about a year old and never had a problem. I've never even thought about it. Mind you, if you are talking about rub around the headtube area, I route my cables around to the opposite side and there is no rubbing. I leave them long enough so that there is no rub on the frame when the steering is turned full 90š.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1579.jpg 
Views:	226 
Size:	390.6 KB 
ID:	786578
    Nice details, Ronnie! So great to see these inputs. Keep it up!
    Transition TransAM 29 (made 27.5 "Plus")
    Cannondale F5000 Yellow :P

  95. #495
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,317
    Got the fork, cranks, cockpit, wheels and tires on my Paradox over the last week or so. Just need to order brakes, shifters, cassette, and rear derailleur to get it going. Really stoked, comparing measurements to my other bikes, seems like the fit is going to be spot on, even with the short headtube on the XL frame.

  96. #496
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,462
    Excited to see your build GTScoob.
    konahonzo

  97. #497
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,317
    Man in the brown suit dropped off a nice box of parts yesterday. Hopefully I'll get this put together next week. Here's how the build is going to look:

    ver2 Paradox Frame
    Fork - 2012 Rockshox Revelation RCT3 140mm
    Wheels - Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs laced to Pacenti DL31 rims. 32H front 36H rear, wheelbuild by Snyder Cycles
    Tires - Ardent 2.4 up front, Ikon 2.2 out back. Hoping to replace the Ikon with a 2.35 version when it wears out, if it'll fit.
    Cranks - 780 XT cranks, 24/32/bash
    Shifters - 10 speed XT, Ispec shifters
    Brakes - XT Icetech with Magura rotors 203mm F/ 180mm R
    Front derailleur - XT 9spd direct mount for less chainrub when cross chained
    Rear derailleur - Zee FR Shadow+
    Cassette - XT 11-34
    Thomson stem and post for now, Truvativ Boobars.

    Cockpit, tires, and cranks are spare parts. Rotors were originally purchased for another bike but ended up not using them. Sold a few bikes to buy the rest of the parts so I'm almost coming out ahead on this build

    Hoping to get it built next week and then hitting FATS in South Carolina next weekend for my birthday. Lotsa good flow trails out there that should be perfect for this bike

  98. #498
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ronnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,184
    "GTscoob", just a heads-up. My whole drive train is is nine speed. Crank set is M770 with 22/32T and a bashguard. When I first built my version 2, I used a XT 9 speed direct mount front derailleur. The XT 9 speed is made for three rings and has a very long cage. I found it long enough that it was within a few millimeters of the back tire (2.25 Nobby Nic) when on the granny gear. I then got a XT 10 speed which is meant for two rings and works just fine with my 9 speed two ring setup. The cage is much shorter and affords much better clearance.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  99. #499
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,317
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    "GTscoob", just a heads-up. My whole drive train is is nine speed. Crank set is M770 with 22/32T and a bashguard. When I first built my version 2, I used a XT 9 speed direct mount front derailleur. The XT 9 speed is made for three rings and has a very long cage. I found it long enough that it was within a few millimeters of the back tire (2.25 Nobby Nic) when on the granny gear. I then got a XT 10 speed which is meant for two rings and works just fine with my 9 speed two ring setup. The cage is much shorter and affords much better clearance.
    Thanks for the heads up. Do you know which model number you are using? Are you using the XT 3x10 FD (M781) or an XT 2x10 FD (M786)?

    Tire clearance is good but I'd also like a FD that is sized closer to the rings I'm using, not one designed to clear the removed 42T ring.

    FWIW I noticed the stock Paradoxes come with a SRAM 2x10 front derailleur despite shipping with a double/bash setup. This isnt supposed to work so well since cable pull and travel are different on the 2x front derailleurs compared to the 3x front derailleurs.

  100. #500
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ronnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,184
    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Thanks for the heads up. Do you know which model number you are using? Are you using the XT 3x10 FD (M781) or an XT 2x10 FD (M786)?

    Tire clearance is good but I'd also like a FD that is sized closer to the rings I'm using, not one designed to clear the removed 42T ring.

    FWIW I noticed the stock Paradoxes come with a SRAM 2x10 front derailleur despite shipping with a double/bash setup. This isnt supposed to work so well since cable pull and travel are different on the 2x front derailleurs compared to the 3x front derailleurs.
    It's a XT 2 X 10 M786.

    Paradox Updated for 2012-img_1580.jpg
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 2012 Trek Wahoo VS. 2012 Specialized Hardrock
    By smoothie7 in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 53
    Last Post: 03-18-2012, 10:31 AM
  2. 2012 trek slash 9 vs 2012 remedy 9.8 or 9
    By Demorider in forum Trek
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 01-20-2012, 12:51 AM
  3. 2012 Marin T3 XM8 or 2012 Scott Genius 20 ??
    By A2k Mike in forum Bike and Frame discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-01-2011, 03:12 AM
  4. Rocky has updated their site for 2012
    By powriderkevin in forum Rocky Mountain
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 09-03-2011, 10:42 PM
  5. Updated R2R website with updated trail conditions
    By flipnidaho in forum Idaho, Montana, Wyoming
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 01-02-2008, 03:07 PM

Members who have read this thread: 30

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •