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  1. #501
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    Now where'd you read that nonsense and why would there be any difference in cable pull between a 2X or 3X FD made for the same "X"spd cranks/rings?? I think what you're referring to is that 9spd and 10spd now have different ratios/cable pull, so "technically" they're not sposed to be interchangeable and may not work - my SRAM direct mount FD works fine with my 9spd M760 cranks.

    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Thanks for the heads up. Do you know which model number you are using? Are you using the XT 3x10 FD (M781) or an XT 2x10 FD (M786)?

    FWIW I noticed the stock Paradoxes come with a SRAM 2x10 front derailleur despite shipping with a double/bash setup. This isnt supposed to work so well since cable pull and travel are different on the 2x front derailleurs compared to the 3x front derailleurs.
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  2. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Now where'd you read that nonsense and why would there be any difference in cable pull between a 2X or 3X FD made for the same "X"spd cranks/rings?? I think what you're referring to is that 9spd and 10spd now have different ratios/cable pull, so "technically" they're not sposed to be interchangeable and may not work - my SRAM direct mount FD works fine with my 9spd M760 cranks.
    Dunno, somewhere on here. Had just always heard to use triple FDs for triple cranks, even if converted to doubles w/bash and double FDs for dedicated double cranks. Guess the cable pull issue is more with the shifter and the XTs have the 2x/3x mode switcher so should be an issue either way.

    Stoked the get this built but promised my gf we'd put her new road bike together before the Banshee. Lotsa bike building over the next week.

  3. #503
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    Hi guys,

    I love my Paradox, but I feel like my sitting position is a bit cramped. I see two options:
    1.) Longer stem (now I have a 70mm, 5 stem installed, KCNC Bear Arm)
    2.) Steer with more rise (now installed: KCNC Bearbone with 25 mm rise)

    Any suggestions?

  4. #504
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    You actually have 3 options, 2 are relatively cheap, the third not so if even available to you.

    1 - longer stem - you'd be amazed at how much difference just 10mm in stem length can feel/make.
    2 - wider bar - will also stretch you out and forward
    3 - Larger size frame - can't remember what size you ride.

    Now if you combine the longer stem with wider bar, then you'll get even further out without adding much stem length.

    Quote Originally Posted by pieterpan View Post
    Hi guys,

    I love my Paradox, but I feel like my sitting position is a bit cramped. I see two options:
    1.) Longer stem (now I have a 70mm, 5 stem installed, KCNC Bear Arm)
    2.) Steer with more rise (now installed: KCNC Bearbone with 25 mm rise)

    Any suggestions?
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  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by pieterpan View Post
    Hi guys,

    I love my Paradox, but I feel like my sitting position is a bit cramped. I see two options:
    1.) Longer stem (now I have a 70mm, 5 stem installed, KCNC Bear Arm)
    2.) Steer with more rise (now installed: KCNC Bearbone with 25 mm rise)

    Any suggestions?
    Are you already using a setback seatpost btw? If not, I think that may be better then compromising cockpit handling -albeit a bit of it- by using a longer stem.
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  6. #506
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    What Cane Creek headset fits Paradox version 2? Model # .

    Appreciate the help.

  7. #507
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    Top headset: Cane Creek, SHIS ZS44 - 1-1.25" ZeroStack (ZS) Threadless,
    Bottom headset: Cane Creek, SHIS: EC49/30 - 1.5" Traditional to 1-1/8" Conversion

  8. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helmetless View Post
    Are you already using a setback seatpost btw? If not, I think that may be better then compromising cockpit handling -albeit a bit of it- by using a longer stem.
    I am using a RockShox Reverb with my saddle at far back position.
    Would you suggest another stem over another steering bar? I was thinking about the Renthal FatBar Lite with 38mm rise. Probably another stem is the cheaper option, but I would think that compromises the steering feeling more than a higher steering bar.

  9. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helmetless View Post
    Are you already using a setback seatpost btw? If not, I think that may be better then compromising cockpit handling -albeit a bit of it- by using a longer stem.
    Not very good advice. Get the seatpost (straight or setback) that you need for pedalling comfort and efficiency and then use the stem (and ETT/frame reach which is normally a fixed measurement) to adjust your reach/ weight distribution.

  10. #510
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    Thanks for your help Adisuta!! Going to finally start working on the Paradox build.

    Quote Originally Posted by adrisuta View Post
    Top headset: Cane Creek, SHIS ZS44 - 1-1.25" ZeroStack (ZS) Threadless,
    Bottom headset: Cane Creek, SHIS: EC49/30 - 1.5" Traditional to 1-1/8" Conversion

  11. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    You actually have 3 options, 2 are relatively cheap, the third not so if even available to you.

    1 - longer stem - you'd be amazed at how much difference just 10mm in stem length can feel/make.
    2 - wider bar - will also stretch you out and forward
    3 - Larger size frame - can't remember what size you ride.

    Now if you combine the longer stem with wider bar, then you'll get even further out without adding much stem length.
    Hy LyNx,

    I ride a large frame and I am 1,88m long, so that is really half way between L and XL, but I chose L for... can't really remember why :-) Another frame really isn't an option.
    My bar is already 710mm wide, so much wider seems too wide (but maybe when I would get the renthal bars, they are 740 I believe, so that is more rise and more width).
    You only mention solutions to get me streched out to the front, but I guessed that I can also change my position to be more upright with a higher riser bar. Does this sound stupid?
    I see it as I have the choice to go for a more racy/XC position with a longer stem, or to a more touring/AM position by getting the bars up...

    more suggestions?

  12. #512
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    In my opinion raising the bars will counter the longer stem and not reduce the cramped feel of your cockpit. I think flat bars and a dropped stem will stretch you out more than riser bars and an AM riding position.

    Or in other words stretching out your cockpit XC style with a longer stem, flat (usually narrow) bars and a low rise or inverted stem will work.

    Riser bars and a more upright position will not work.

  13. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozynigma View Post
    In my opinion raising the bars will counter the longer stem and not reduce the cramped feel of your cockpit. I think flat bars and a dropped stem will stretch you out more than riser bars and an AM riding position.

    Or in other words stretching out your cockpit XC style with a longer stem, flat (usually narrow) bars and a low rise or inverted stem will work.

    Riser bars and a more upright position will not work.
    My reasoning is like this:
    http://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-cont...saddlebars.jpg
    Paradox Updated for 2012-102910saddlebars.jpg

    The picture shows different riding positions for a rider with the same length. You can see that for more AM the bars get higher and closer to the saddle. Actually from XC to Freeride the bar positions form an arc. I believe that if you increase the radius of the arc, you in fact adapt for a bigger rider, so llonger stem and more rise should help. But indeed less rise should help also since you increase the distance from the saddle to the bar.

    Hope this makes sense...

  14. #514
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    I used to own both an Epic and an Enduro in "L" frame size.

    I don't think Lee is saying these bikes are the same "length" or have the same "ETT" effective top tube length. They may all be the same nominal frame size though.

    You can see from the overlay that the bar position is affected by the top tube length, the height, angle and length of the head tube, the length and angle of the stem and the rise and rake on the bars.

    I stick by my earlier opinion, I was definitely more stretched out on the "L" Epic with a 120mm stem and flat bars than I was on the "L" Enduro with about a 70mm stem and riser bars.

    The Paradox XL has a 30mm longer ETT than the L. I suggest you borrow or buy a cheap 100mm stem and try it out with no other changes.

    I used to set my bikes up very XC with 100 - 120mm stems and narrow flat bars. For various reasons I am now running with 70 - 90mm stems and a mix of flat or riser bars depending on which bike. My point is I prefer to get the right frame size and choose a stem length based on what the bike is being used for rather than as a correction for a wrong frame size choice.

    However in your case give it a go and see how the 100mm stem feels in terms of both cockpit length and steering feel.

  15. #515
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    Dude, I'm not known for being very tactful, so please don't take offense and maybe it sounds like English may not be your first language so you're using terms incorrectly and not conveying your thoughts properly.

    You said your cockpit feels cramps, so raising the bar will do nothing but make it feel even more so as it will make you sit up more and bring you back. As was said earlier when someone suggested moving your saddle position, this is something you shouldn't do, you should always setup this first and then dial in your cockpit for reach etc after.

    FYI, you're my height and I ride an XL, run a 80mm stem and 750mm wide low rise bar, so for/to me you must be way cramped in that setup. As to a 710mm being "very" wide, PFffft, the 750mm on my Paradox is my narrowest bar on any of my bikes now, I then have a 760mm on my rigid KM and 785mm on my Prime. Go for a much wider bar, like 785-800mm and give it a go, if you don't like it you can always cut it down, but you cannot add width to a bar, well only one or two I know of and not much This is what I did and ended up keeping the full width of the 785mm wide bar despite the plan being to cut it down and just ave a bit of fun on it first.

    The frame comment was only in jest, hence the smiley


    Quote Originally Posted by pieterpan View Post
    Hy LyNx,

    I ride a large frame and I am 1,88m long, so that is really half way between L and XL, but I chose L for... can't really remember why :-) Another frame really isn't an option.
    My bar is already 710mm wide, so much wider seems too wide (but maybe when I would get the renthal bars, they are 740 I believe, so that is more rise and more width).
    You only mention solutions to get me streched out to the front, but I guessed that I can also change my position to be more upright with a higher riser bar. Does this sound stupid?
    I see it as I have the choice to go for a more racy/XC position with a longer stem, or to a more touring/AM position by getting the bars up...

    more suggestions?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  16. #516
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    Thanks LyNx and ozinygma.
    I really am not that "cramped" (for clarification: I mean it sometimes feels like my back is bent slightly too much).
    I get your point, more rise will not help, lower an wider bars and/or longer stem will. The width of the bars I can easily check by just putting my hands at the end of my bars next time I feel cramped to see whether that helps and I can also try to invert my stem or remove one or two shims below the stem for a lower cockpit.

  17. #517
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    Now that is a completely different story to being cramped, you're feeling to hunched over is what you mean. Higher rise stem or bar will work to fix this. If you go for a much wider bar remember that you'll need to shorten up your stem to keep the dynamic reach the same.For me these days since I don't race or worry about cranking out the miles so much, I kind of keep the bar to just lower than where it starts to make the front end feel light on steep climbs, but the lower the better when descending (to a point) to keep your weight over the front better - just lowered my bar 1cm and feels much better on the descents in keeping the front wheel tracking.
    Quote Originally Posted by pieterpan View Post
    Thanks LyNx and ozinygma.
    I really am not that "cramped" (for clarification: I mean it sometimes feels like my back is bent slightly too much).
    I get your point, more rise will not help, lower an wider bars and/or longer stem will. The width of the bars I can easily check by just putting my hands at the end of my bars next time I feel cramped to see whether that helps and I can also try to invert my stem or remove one or two shims below the stem for a lower cockpit.
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  18. #518
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    Pieter

    How long have you had the bike? When I first got mine (size large, I'm 182 cm tall); I felt cramped; felt like I needed an extra inch of space. This was with a 70 mm stem and 1" riser bars with the seat all the way back on the stock Banshee seatpost. Now I feel comfortable.

    To echo what Lynx said, 710mm is not wide; though I do suppose the terrain you ride on makes a difference. I ride 740 mm wide bars and I'm not especially broad in the shoulders. On the plus side, enjoy your (presumably) greater standover height, that's one of my three gripes with this frame.

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  19. #519
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    Got in a few miles yesterday on the new bike, took it to the Big Creek trails north of Atlanta since they're full of a lot of different riding conditions with roots/rocks in abundance, loose climbing, bermed out turns, pump tracks, slalom/DH runs, steep ups and downs. Bike handled it all like a champ, nice to have a 29er that doesnt feel like a tank in the pump track.




    Here are a few crappy camera phone pics of my build, second pic has my GFs bike in it (her first MTB ride in 6+ months, glad to have her out on the trail again). Am probably going to drop the bars 5-10mm as the front end was getting a little light on some of the steeper technical climbs.

    This bike is definitely stiff but getting back on front suspension after riding rigid for the last two years seemed to smooth out most of the bigger hits. First ride on tubes in over a year as well so that will also add some compliance to the ride.

  20. #520
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    Anyone succesfully running a Panaracer Rampage 2.35 tire in the rear with a front derailleur? I'm running a 3x9 with an XT derailleur, right now I have a Conti Race King 2.2 in the rear, with not a lot of clearance. I'm willing to dremel off the bottom swing arm from the derailleur, but I don't know if that will give me enough clearance.

  21. #521
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    Do you have a picture showing what your current clearances are?

    Sorry, no Rampage specific information. But...

    If I remember correctly (it was earlier in this thread; sometime after my first post in it), some XT's have more clearance than others. It might have been the model right before the most recent one.

    I was almost able to fit a 2.35" Nobby Nic with the most recent XTR front by dremeling it a bit; but almost was not quite enough. Interestingly enough, my 2.5" DHF appears to have more clearance to where the FD would be than the NN.

    So, if a Rampage is as big/tall as a NN, I would say it won't fit. If the diameter is 8-10 mm less than the NN (i.e. gives 4-5 mm more clearance at the FD), then it'll probablly fit. Unless you ride in mud. I wasn't willing to give up the big tires, so I gave up the front derailleur.
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  22. #522
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    The Race King is mounted to a DT Swiss M1800 wheelset (622 x 19.5 rim), about 5mm from the tread to the arm thingy on the M770 derailleur (9spd triple) :
     photo IMG_20130602_222223_169_zpsb2a2859e.jpg

     photo IMG_20130602_222117_346_zpsb19abcaa.jpg

     photo IMG_20130602_221759_962_zps3978bee0.jpg

  23. #523
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    OMG, not much space left and that's only 2.2 Race Kings. Wanted to put some of the 2.4 WTB's, but I'm not sure now...

  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuuds View Post
    The Race King is mounted to a DT Swiss M1800 wheelset (622 x 19.5 rim), about 5mm from the tread to the arm thingy on the M770 derailleur (9spd triple) :
    Get a Dremel with a cutting wheel and cut off the bottom pull arm. It doesn't affect the derailleur and takes about a minute to do.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  25. #525
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    zuuds; If I were you, I'd buy one 2.35" Rampage and try it on the rear. If it doesn't fit, use it on the front.

    My Nobby Nic rubbed in 2 places; one I cut off as Ronnie recommends, the other was the plastic housing for the spring. I might have been able to make it work by taking the spring dust/mud cover off, but didn't really like that idea. Probably will depend on how the knobs of the tires line up with the parts of the derailleur. At the very best, it's gonna be real close.

    Or, go 1 X 9/10. LyNx hates this idea. I love it. Besides, if you lose the FD, you can fit 2.5" Minion DHF's...
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