Soon... received my frame today but it'll take a while until it's build. Still have to decide which fork I will run...
Anyhow, I'm using a CCDB Air in the Legend and would like to align the valve so it's pointing upwards. Can anyone tell me if it's okay if I simply twist the piston, or do I really have to disassmble the air can, re-align the whole thing, and the re-assemble again?
Edit:
oh, and torquening values for the bushings would be great (rear & shockmount).
You can turn the shock valve pretty easily once you let all the air out... it's infinitely adjustable. This shows the position I would recommend Banshee Legend MKII - Tested - Pinkbike
The only bushings on the MkII are the DU bushings in the shock.
Shock bolts should be tightened to 15Nm
Main pivot (above BB) to 10Nm
All other pivots to 8Nm
Hey, I'm planning to use the Hope Step Down headset for my Legend. I'm just wondering if the cups aren't to small - the cups' height is around 7-10 mm. Isn't that to small for a full blown DH setup? Should I use larger cups or isn't this a problem for the steering tube at all?
Just undo the axle bolts, and then tap the axle through with a punch... it's a simple process by my require some shock force knock the axles through if they have not been regularly maintained.
Remember to apply antiseize grease to the axles before reassembling.
Yeah, mine hasn't been maintained in a long time.
What do you use to tap it? I will have to deliver a few good punches and I don't want to damage them.
If the pivots haven't been maintained for a long time then there is the chance that the antiseize grease has got a bit thin and the Ti axles can kind of fuse slightly with the steel of the bearings. This shouldn't be too hard to break tho... some sharp light cracks of a hammer should be enough to break it.
I would recommend to use a regular hammer (not a ruber mallet) as the shock from the metal hammer will help break and bonding. It shouldn't require heavy blows, just fast sharp taps to break bonds and work the axle out bit by bit. It should come out easily once you have got it moving.
If you don't have a punch that fits well, you could use an allen key inserted into the axle that butts up on the interior far end. The axles are strong, but try to avoid damaging the internal threads.
Anyone running the CCDB Air in their Legend and care to share some details on their setup? (Rider weight, Sag, number of Volume Spacers etc...)
I'm already familiar with the suggested base tune from cane creek but I was wondering if anyone is running something different (e.g. less than the suggested three large volume spacers, more LSC etc...)
any suggestions for positioning the fork bumpers? Both top- and downtube seem to use the same tube wall thickness, so I guess it doesn't matter if the bumpers face the top-/downtube?
Good question! The downtube is significantly thicker than the top tube in that location, so it is important to put the bumpers on the downtube, and to avoid the unsupported section... so I recommend positioning the bumpers so that they make contat at the very bottom of the downtube (where the gusset is built in to the hydroforming), as this is the strongest location.
I flash back to those that remember Adam Brayton's frame the year he got injured badly. It's a little different now though. What a brilliant bike though! The spec is beneath. :thumbsup:
Legend Mk 2
BOS Idylles DC
CCDB(with 3.0X350lbs steel spring)
Formula ROs
Raceface Atlas Cranks(BB incl)
ODI Ruffian Grips
Raceface Atlas Bars
SRAM x9 rear
SRAM x9 trigger
Raceface Atlas Direct Mount
Funn Bullet 20mm
Mavic EX823s
DT Swiss Spokes
Hope Pro 2 Rear Hub
Dirty Dans
DMR V12 Mag Pedals
E-thirteen SRS East Coast
Banshee seat post
Selle Italia Shiver Ti
SRAM PC-991
SRAM PG950 9-Speed Cassette
Just a quick question related to the Legend's bottom bracket: I have installed two different cranksets (both Shimano) and have noticed that the chain ring does not align when I spin the cranks, it looks like the chain ring is bent a little bit to the inside since it does not run smooth.
I have installed two brand new Shimano Zee cranksets (since I initially thought there was something wrong with the first one) but it turned out the problem appears with both cranksets.
I have corrected my previous post. Of course it's not related to the frame itself, since the chain ring "wobbles" from left to right (ca. 1mm): Guess I was unlucky with my two cranksets
Aaaaaand, not as stoked at the mid-way point of summer. Noticed this beauty on day one of a trip to Silver Star; wraps right around under the top tube and up the other side
Where did you guys get new decals? I think a re-paint or polish is next along with new bearings. I love the Dorado on this bike.
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