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  1. #1
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    keith, Jay- Rune Revisions, any word??

    Rune revisions?? Any word on what they may be? After the Rune wish list thread responses I think the Rune really only needs minor tweeks.

  2. #2
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    i think that there isn't a lot of hope for that now. the prime is still [priority #1 i believe and it's still not ready. i imagine revisions to the current stable are on the back burner

  3. #3
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    There will be a couple of small tweaks to the rune next year... We'll post info on the blog about it when confirmed.
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  4. #4
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    Id kill for a carbon rune/spitty but I know it is probably faar away.
    www.totalbikes.pl - Bike Camps not only in Poland

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    There will be a couple of small tweaks to the rune next year... We'll post info on the blog about it when confirmed.
    Only thing needed is bearings or improved bushings. The bike really needs no improvements. Its perfect.

  6. #6
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    I love how the Rune feels and rides with the exception of the pedal feedback. You guys with the fast flowy terrain don't suffer from the same issues like we have in Arizona. Climbing rough, rocky, ledges/steps is a nightmare when the suspension kicks your feet off the pedals. The angle of the lower pivot creates too much chain growth in my opinion but I know that leveling that link out creates issues with patents. Just my observation.
    "Don't feel bad. A lot of people have no talent"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunerinaz View Post
    The angle of the lower pivot creates too much chain growth in my opinion but I know that leveling that link out creates issues with patents. Just my observation.
    Easily solved with different gearing options. Ditch the granny, get 1x with a 36t in back, even a 30t in front if you really need easy gears. This way you can get the same gear ratio without the chainline being so close to the pivot.

    "leveling that link out" would make the bike less active under braking, regardless of patent issues.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Easily solved with different gearing options. Ditch the granny, get 1x with a 36t in back, even a 30t in front if you really need easy gears. This way you can get the same gear ratio without the chainline being so close to the pivot.

    "leveling that link out" would make the bike less active under braking, regardless of patent issues.
    1x9/10 isn't really much of an option here with the steep technical climbs we have. 1x isn't popular here because of that.
    "Don't feel bad. A lot of people have no talent"

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunerinaz View Post
    I love how the Rune feels and rides with the exception of the pedal feedback. You guys with the fast flowy terrain don't suffer from the same issues like we have in Arizona. Climbing rough, rocky, ledges/steps is a nightmare when the suspension kicks your feet off the pedals. The angle of the lower pivot creates too much chain growth in my opinion but I know that leveling that link out creates issues with patents. Just my observation.
    We have that here in NM too. Problem solved by removing granny ring and going 1x9/10.

  10. #10
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunerinaz View Post
    1x9/10 isn't really much of an option here with the steep technical climbs we have. 1x isn't popular here because of that.
    On my 29'er, I'm running a 30t front and a 12-36 9-spd cassette. That 30x36t gear combo is EASY. It's essentially the same gear ratio as a 22t granny with a 27t cog in back- so it's definitely a bit taller than the easiest 2x9 gears, but my bike is also running a pound lighter with no front shifter/derailuer, and the shifting is much better than 2x9. With a 26" wheel, that 30x36t combo equates to about 2.6mph minimum with a cadence of 40...basically you run out of low gears at walking speed.

    After completing a full season with 1x9 on both my bikes, I don't think I'll ever run a granny again.

    PS- got the grease gun adapter, nice work!
    just need a different grease gun now...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    On my 29'er, I'm running a 30t front and a 12-36 9-spd cassette. That 30x36t gear combo is EASY. It's essentially the same gear ratio as a 22t granny with a 27t cog in back- so it's definitely a bit taller than the easiest 2x9 gears, but my bike is also running a pound lighter with no front shifter/derailuer, and the shifting is much better than 2x9. With a 26" wheel, that 30x36t combo equates to about 2.6mph minimum with a cadence of 40...basically you run out of low gears at walking speed.

    After completing a full season with 1x9 on both my bikes, I don't think I'll ever run a granny again.

    PS- got the grease gun adapter, nice work!
    just need a different grease gun now...
    Are you running the 30T in the granny position or the middle ring position? What kind of chainring are you using?
    "Don't feel bad. A lot of people have no talent"

  12. #12
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    Middle ring- it's one of these andersen machine works rings. The non-ramped SS/1x ring is a little thicker, and he provides custom hardware so you don't have to worry about bending a ring due to the BCD being close to the teeth.

  13. #13
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    bearings please!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunerinaz View Post
    I love how the Rune feels and rides with the exception of the pedal feedback. You guys with the fast flowy terrain don't suffer from the same issues like we have in Arizona. Climbing rough, rocky, ledges/steps is a nightmare when the suspension kicks your feet off the pedals. The angle of the lower pivot creates too much chain growth in my opinion but I know that leveling that link out creates issues with patents. Just my observation.
    I just went to an Enduro and problem solved and I kept my granny gear. I had a friend that told me go 1x9 as others have suggested. When he rode the stuff we do. He was walking up the hills on his 1x9. Even said he might have to put the granny ring back on for this stuff. Maybe a more powerful rider or someone many pounds lighter can push 1x9 all day on our trails. That's great for them. That's just not doable for this old guy.
    Currently at Mayo Clinic being tested for a kidney transplant. Donors welcome.

  15. #15
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    I'm loving 1x10 on my rune. 12-36 in back and 32 in front.

    Sent from my phone using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    There will be a couple of small tweaks to the rune next year... We'll post info on the blog about it when confirmed.
    Should I wait then? I want to get mine this fall. I know that nothing is final yet but are the older frames going to be retrofittable? If the tweaks include geometry changes (i.e. steeper SA, wink wink) I will wait.
    Hey man, wanna go for a klunk?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunerinaz View Post
    Are you running the 30T in the granny position or the middle ring position? What kind of chainring are you using?
    1x is awesome. If I run gears it's 1x. I've lived in some hilly places as well. Currently running 32T 11-34. Just moved to Moab so we'll see how it goes. If it's tough, I think 1x10 w/ a 11-36 will be the ticket. I just don't want to drop the $$$ on all the new gear yet

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Middle ring- it's one of these andersen machine works rings. The non-ramped SS/1x ring is a little thicker, and he provides custom hardware so you don't have to worry about bending a ring due to the BCD being close to the teeth.
    I'd love to try the 30T, but it's hard to justify spending that kind of coin on a chainring. I really need to make some for myself
    "Don't feel bad. A lot of people have no talent"

  19. #19
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    i also always said i would never go to 1x9... till this year...
    went with a 32t ring up front for the rune, and it is just so awsome... just yesterday, went on an spontanous mountain trip with a friend... we sat in the car at 3 pm, and finished some 5000 vertical feet of climbing and technical descent before the sun had set...

    i admit that the climbs are not too techy, but they are steep enough, and i did never feel that the 32t ring was holding me back

  20. #20
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    anyone know how to get the 36 tooth cog in the rear with a 9 speed casette? I could only find the 9-speeds in a 34 tooth max.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiawatha-de View Post
    anyone know how to get the 36 tooth cog in the rear with a 9 speed casette? I could only find the 9-speeds in a 34 tooth max.
    You can do a shimano 9spd SLX HG-61 in 12-36t - like this- not a good option if your hub has an aluminum free-hub body, as the spiderless steel casette will dig into the softer alloy. If you have a steel free-hub (like XT) it works fine.

    You can also convert just about any 9-spd casette, by adding a 36t to the back (like this on from eBay seller mtbtools) then removing a 13 or 14t cog to keep the width at standard 9-spd.

    I've tried both routes, they work equally well, although the conversion route is lighter, compatible with aluminum free-hub bodies, and has some protection to keep your chain from dropping in between the spokes and casette.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    You can do a shimano 9spd SLX HG-61 in 12-36t - like this- not a good option if your hub has an aluminum free-hub body, as the spiderless steel casette will dig into the softer alloy. If you have a steel free-hub (like XT) it works fine.

    You can also convert just about any 9-spd casette, by adding a 36t to the back (like this on from eBay seller mtbtools) then removing a 13 or 14t cog to keep the width at standard 9-spd.

    I've tried both routes, they work equally well, although the conversion route is lighter, compatible with aluminum free-hub bodies, and has some protection to keep your chain from dropping in between the spokes and casette.

    Wow, not cheap tho!

  23. #23
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    I got a 12-36 for $50 from my LBS. $54.99 to be exact...

    And Dunerinaz, I'd really recommend trying the Rune in a 1x9 with 32t front, and 12-36 in the back. I raced BCBR (on my Rune) with that this year, and had NO problems whatsoever. Mind you, I wasn't the fastest up the climbs, but everything was manageable. Also, I use it here in the interior all over the place, and have no problems. On those long (4hr plus) days, or if I'm in some kind of hammer-fest "my dick is bigger than your dick" kind of ride, it gets fatiguing (and frustrating), but overall, it's a great gearing combo on the Rune. Very little pedal feedback, even with a pro-pedal'less shock.

    And, aside from some new tubing designs, lightening it up a little bit, maybe a thru-axle in the rear, I don't see what Banshee could do better with the bike. I've had no problems with my bushings (although, I lube them pretty frequently, about once a month, thanks to Dunerinaz' tool!), and the bike rides great.

  24. #24
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    ps: I just use the standard 32t middle ring of any triple crankset. Contrary to what ANYONE says, you don't need any special **** (chain rings, spacers blah blah) to run 1x9... the bike's chainline seems to be optimized for the middle ring anyways.

    I run an E13 LG1+ guide, and once I got the guide spaced correctly, have had no problems. The chain doesn't even rub the upper guide. It's pretty good...

    All in all, with my current cranks, and the guide, it cost me $100 for a pretty significant upgrade in performance (especially for the descents, being able to pedal through ANYTHING).

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