There's not much to this- a "How to" isn't really necessary, but I figured people might find this helpful. This is based on my Rune, but I assume the process and part numbers are the same for the Spitfire and Rampant. Hopefully Keith will chime in with any tips or corrections….
So far, replacing bushings at least once a year, and lubing seasonally is about right for me- this would be "preventative maintenance". In my experience so far, to really lube the bushings properly you need to pull the axles out, clean & regrease, then re-assemble- don't just use the grease gun ports. One thing I really like about this design, is that there isn't much you can do to screw the frame up (i.e. no threads to strip, no clamshell bearing clamps or press-fit press-fit holes to stretch out.) Worst case scenario, you replace the bushings and your pivot axles, and the frame is good as new.
On to business!
I ordered about a decades worth of bushings directly from Igus. Quick easy phone call…. You may have seen different alphabetical codes (I.e. LFM) for Banshee's bushings- this has to do with country/distributor or something. They did a quick cross-reference and had all the info needed. I think I ordered 10 complete kits for under $100…killer.
Here are the Igus bushing part numbers:
LFM-1517-17 (2x at main BB pivot)
LFM-1214-17 (4x - 2 at chainstay pivot, 2 at seat tube rocker pivot)
LFM-0810-04 (4x at seat stay pivots)
Make sure you have the proper tools before you start.
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Seriously, all you need is 2 sets of allen keys, a rubber mallet, blue locktite, citrus degreaser, grease-gun and a bic pen. A framing clamp of some sort is helpful too.
Prepare the patient.
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Main BB pivot first. Remove the cranks and chainguide (if you have one)
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1. On the non-drive side, remove the 2 plastic caps from the swing-link
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2.With a 2mm allen key, remove the set-screws from the grease ports. Don't stress if they get stuck in there, you can extract them later. (sometimes the grease and machining chaff can make them difficult to remove for the first time)
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3.Important! The main BB pivot axle is keyed on the non-drive side. Insert 6mm allen keys on both sides of the pivot, but only turn (loosen) the bolt on the drive side. Back it out, then thread it back in 4-6 turns, like so:
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4.Using a rubber mallet, tap the bolt on the drive side to push the axle out the opposite side. Once you get it tapped most of the way through, you shoudl be able to remove from the ND side. The allen key was really not necessary here:
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5.De-grease and clean the pivot axle and bolt. Make sure the threads are totally de-greased, as they will get lock-tite later on. Note the "Key" on the ND-side, and the hole for grease in the center. I've been wondering if increasing the size of this hole would make the grease ports more effective.
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6.I used a bungee to keep the swing-arm up & out of the way. If you are not replacing the bearings, just cleaning and lubing, skip to step 11.
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7.Remove the old bushings. The ultimate tool for this would be an "easy-out", but I've always been able to push them out with the plastic tube from a ball-point pen or wooden dowel, and a few taps with a mallet.
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8.Thoroughly clean and degrease the pivot bore... press a new LFM-1517-17 bushing in one side, evenly, by hand.
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9.Once you get it started evenly by hand, you can press it in all the way using a framing clamp. You could also probably use a block of wood and mallet, just be careful to keep it even so the bushing doesn't get mangled.
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10.Repeat for the other side. Finished bushing install:
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11.Time to put the axle back in. Make sure your threads are clean. If your 2mm grease-port screw got stuck in the ND side, now is the time to remove, clean, and check for any obstructions.
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12.Apply a coat of grease to the outside of the axle. The idea is to get as much grease between the axle and bushings as possible, without getting any on the threads inside the drive-side end of the axle. Prep-M is ideal, but I used finish line white Lithium grease.
13.Insert the axle from the non-drive side, through the swing link, bushings and frame. A few gentle taps with the mallet may help. Stop before the axle head seats into the swing link. Note the location of the keyed slot in the swing-link and roughly line it up with the key on the axle. At this point, you can use a 6mm allen key to line up the key & slot.
14.Clean the threads on the drive side of the pivot axle again, apply a few drips of blue locktite to the bolt, and thread in. Watch the non-drive side as you tighten the bolt to make sure the axle is not spinning. (the key&slot should prevent this). recycled picture:
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15.Insert grease gun into non-drive side of pivot axle and pump a bunch of grease in there.
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My old grease gun was a little short for the Rune. I just picked up a new tip for $10 at an auto parts store. Again the grease gun is not the only maintenance required, it's just a way to get more grease in after cleaning/re-assembling the pivots IMO.
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16.Tighten the bolt on the drive side. This bolt needs to be snug, but not super tight- 5-6Nm with a torque wrench.
17. Thread the grease port set-screw into the ND side (not too tight!), wipe clean, and replace plastic cap.
Okay, the main BB pivot is now done. This is the only pivot that is KEYED so the rest are much easier. I do the chainstay swing link bushings next. Basically repeat steps 4-7....Removing the old bushings:
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New bushings pressed in:
repeat steps 8-15....And that's pretty much it, just repeat for each pivot. For all the non-keyed pivots, it helps distribut the grease if you twist the axle in as you pump grease...(step 15).
Anyways, hope that helps, and enjoy your stiff and quiet banshee!
So far, replacing bushings at least once a year, and lubing seasonally is about right for me- this would be "preventative maintenance". In my experience so far, to really lube the bushings properly you need to pull the axles out, clean & regrease, then re-assemble- don't just use the grease gun ports. One thing I really like about this design, is that there isn't much you can do to screw the frame up (i.e. no threads to strip, no clamshell bearing clamps or press-fit press-fit holes to stretch out.) Worst case scenario, you replace the bushings and your pivot axles, and the frame is good as new.
On to business!
I ordered about a decades worth of bushings directly from Igus. Quick easy phone call…. You may have seen different alphabetical codes (I.e. LFM) for Banshee's bushings- this has to do with country/distributor or something. They did a quick cross-reference and had all the info needed. I think I ordered 10 complete kits for under $100…killer.
Here are the Igus bushing part numbers:
LFM-1517-17 (2x at main BB pivot)
LFM-1214-17 (4x - 2 at chainstay pivot, 2 at seat tube rocker pivot)
LFM-0810-04 (4x at seat stay pivots)
Make sure you have the proper tools before you start.
Seriously, all you need is 2 sets of allen keys, a rubber mallet, blue locktite, citrus degreaser, grease-gun and a bic pen. A framing clamp of some sort is helpful too.
Prepare the patient.
Main BB pivot first. Remove the cranks and chainguide (if you have one)
1. On the non-drive side, remove the 2 plastic caps from the swing-link
2.With a 2mm allen key, remove the set-screws from the grease ports. Don't stress if they get stuck in there, you can extract them later. (sometimes the grease and machining chaff can make them difficult to remove for the first time)
3.Important! The main BB pivot axle is keyed on the non-drive side. Insert 6mm allen keys on both sides of the pivot, but only turn (loosen) the bolt on the drive side. Back it out, then thread it back in 4-6 turns, like so:
4.Using a rubber mallet, tap the bolt on the drive side to push the axle out the opposite side. Once you get it tapped most of the way through, you shoudl be able to remove from the ND side. The allen key was really not necessary here:
5.De-grease and clean the pivot axle and bolt. Make sure the threads are totally de-greased, as they will get lock-tite later on. Note the "Key" on the ND-side, and the hole for grease in the center. I've been wondering if increasing the size of this hole would make the grease ports more effective.
6.I used a bungee to keep the swing-arm up & out of the way. If you are not replacing the bearings, just cleaning and lubing, skip to step 11.
7.Remove the old bushings. The ultimate tool for this would be an "easy-out", but I've always been able to push them out with the plastic tube from a ball-point pen or wooden dowel, and a few taps with a mallet.
8.Thoroughly clean and degrease the pivot bore... press a new LFM-1517-17 bushing in one side, evenly, by hand.
9.Once you get it started evenly by hand, you can press it in all the way using a framing clamp. You could also probably use a block of wood and mallet, just be careful to keep it even so the bushing doesn't get mangled.
10.Repeat for the other side. Finished bushing install:
11.Time to put the axle back in. Make sure your threads are clean. If your 2mm grease-port screw got stuck in the ND side, now is the time to remove, clean, and check for any obstructions.
12.Apply a coat of grease to the outside of the axle. The idea is to get as much grease between the axle and bushings as possible, without getting any on the threads inside the drive-side end of the axle. Prep-M is ideal, but I used finish line white Lithium grease.
13.Insert the axle from the non-drive side, through the swing link, bushings and frame. A few gentle taps with the mallet may help. Stop before the axle head seats into the swing link. Note the location of the keyed slot in the swing-link and roughly line it up with the key on the axle. At this point, you can use a 6mm allen key to line up the key & slot.
14.Clean the threads on the drive side of the pivot axle again, apply a few drips of blue locktite to the bolt, and thread in. Watch the non-drive side as you tighten the bolt to make sure the axle is not spinning. (the key&slot should prevent this). recycled picture:
15.Insert grease gun into non-drive side of pivot axle and pump a bunch of grease in there.
My old grease gun was a little short for the Rune. I just picked up a new tip for $10 at an auto parts store. Again the grease gun is not the only maintenance required, it's just a way to get more grease in after cleaning/re-assembling the pivots IMO.
16.Tighten the bolt on the drive side. This bolt needs to be snug, but not super tight- 5-6Nm with a torque wrench.
17. Thread the grease port set-screw into the ND side (not too tight!), wipe clean, and replace plastic cap.
Okay, the main BB pivot is now done. This is the only pivot that is KEYED so the rest are much easier. I do the chainstay swing link bushings next. Basically repeat steps 4-7....Removing the old bushings:
New bushings pressed in:
repeat steps 8-15....And that's pretty much it, just repeat for each pivot. For all the non-keyed pivots, it helps distribut the grease if you twist the axle in as you pump grease...(step 15).
Anyways, hope that helps, and enjoy your stiff and quiet banshee!