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  1. #1
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    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread

    Hi everyone!

    I think Iīm the first to have the official and final Banshee Rune v2. Nothing but to say that this is the really first bike I see itīs almost perfect!!! Since the geometries (absolutely awesome) until the suspension system... probably the best Iīve ever try in my life ( my last bike was a Ibis mojo hd and it was a good bike too but... this Rune is outstanding)

    Well.. before the photo session itīs important to point out some data to get a better idea about this kind of bike...

    Frame weight --> Size L ( 3.6 kilos With shock) ( 7.9 lbs)

    The main points of this bike are

    Head Angle (With lyrik 170mm rc2 dh coil) --> 65š
    Seat Angle --> 73,5š
    Bottom Bracket Heigh --> 345mm ( So less than the geo chart even with the lyrik)
    Wheelbase --> 1185mm

    Bike Check (see image)

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-imagen1.jpg

    And the images.. ENJOY THE VIEW GUYS!!

    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3509.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3510.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3511.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3514.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3515.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3516.jpg
    Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-img_3520.jpg

  2. #2
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    That bike looks fast just sitting there!

  3. #3
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    niiiiice...
    pretty similar build to what mine will look like... only some of my parts are a little cheaper mine will also be raw, large, fox CTD, Flow wheels, Shimano brakes, lyrik coil fork, LG1 single ring,

  4. #4
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    Oh yeah!!

    My first guess for the weight of the frame (L, blue. CTD) was 3,8kg. If yours is 3,6kg, the blue one should be around 3,7. That's good.

  5. #5
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    der klarlack wird jetzt auch nicht soviel weniger wiegen als der farbige lack... man darf gespannt sein

  6. #6
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    Whats the exact name of the chris king headset?!

    want to see more runeīs
    freedom is the ability to go where you want, when u want

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcrs View Post
    That bike looks fast just sitting there!
    Thatīs true... this is a massive enduro.... another level respect to the others enduro... Right now I understand Keith words... " These bikes are designed to be ridden, and ridden hard. "

    He was right....

    Quote Originally Posted by grazertourer View Post
    Oh yeah!!

    My first guess for the weight of the frame (L, blue. CTD) was 3,8kg. If yours is 3,6kg, the blue one should be around 3,7. That's good.
    I think itīs not a weight weenie but itīs acceptable... did you see the bike?? Itīs simply a rock!!

    Quote Originally Posted by JansonJanson View Post
    Whats the exact name of the chris king headset?!

    want to see more runeīs
    The Chris king model you should choose to build on this bike is CHRIS KING INSET-2

    thatīs perfect!

  8. #8
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    Received mine on Monday and it should be finished on Saturday.

  9. #9
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    3,6kg with FLOAT CTD?........ That would mean 3,4 kg only for the frame. This is far more massive than I expected. My Wildcard L-frame is around 3,7kg without shock, so thatīs pretty close for an AM-frame to a freeride frame....seem to be the replacement for the Wildcard in some way....This bike should handle it ALL....

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    3,6kg with FLOAT CTD?........ That would mean 3,4 kg only for the frame. This is far more massive than I expected. My Wildcard L-frame is around 3,7kg without shock, so thatīs pretty close for an AM-frame to a freeride frame....seem to be the replacement for the Wildcard in some way....This bike should handle it ALL....
    The shock it's probably around 300g. 200g is the weight of a very small Fox, 6.5''x1.5'' or something like that and this one is much bigger.

  11. #11
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    One more pic wich I specially Like....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Banshee Rune V2 Build Thread-ok.jpg  


  12. #12
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    Adri....very nice

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vrock View Post
    The shock it's probably around 300g. 200g is the weight of a very small Fox, 6.5''x1.5'' or something like that and this one is much bigger.
    Ok, 3.3kg sounds much better...

    It is the same league as an Helius AM oder an Cheetah Mountain Spirit Enduro for example. But it also is 300g more than a Specialized Enduro. This one indeed is a tank...

  14. #14
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    Amazing, boy! A real enduro races winner! Congratulations!

  15. #15
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    Awesome bike!

    It looks so powerful and fast
    And the red grips are cool, don't bother changing them

    Regards
    Ivanius from foromtb

  16. #16
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    Very nice Adriano! You running a 35mm stem on that and how tall are you?

    Thanks.
    Ride On!

  17. #17
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    we want pictures on the mountain!!

  18. #18
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    Impressive! looks really good! It's too much bike for me, but I always like to see this kind of bike! Congratulations, enjoy it!!

  19. #19
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  20. #20
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    Can anyone else not see the pictures??

  21. #21
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    Super D's great set up.
    As I've told you, very impressive bike.

    Congrats man, and enjoy it!
    Licensed to confuse...

  22. #22
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    Beatiful! Do you have a pic of the frame weight?

  23. #23
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    Bike looks amazing!!

    Question, your running a 35mm stem, how tall are you? How does the size feel?

  24. #24
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    Hi guys!!

    Iīm running a 40mm stem right now and Iīm 6,0

    I feel the bike very helpfull at geometries level, and the bike itīs a really LARGE in fact, running a 40mm stem regarding my heigh probable gives you a minimum idea about the size.. itīs perfect.

  25. #25
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    Hi Adi.. very nice bike !

    Can you tell me the length of your Reverb seat post please ?

    Thanks

  26. #26
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    UK Bound?

    Does anybody know if these frames are going to be available in the UK? I just contacted Freeborn (UK distributer) and they are unsure if they will get any, let alone provide a delivery date.
    I have been searching for months and deliberating over many frames and this one seems to pip my shortlist - can anybody tell me if these frames are UK bound?

    AR

  27. #27
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    OP...you find the KS Link suspension better than your previous DW Link on the Mojo? Can you explain the difference in feel and why you like the KS better. How's it climb up ugly terrain?
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear View Post
    Does anybody know if these frames are going to be available in the UK? I just contacted Freeborn (UK distributer) and they are unsure if they will get any, let alone provide a delivery date.
    I have been searching for months and deliberating over many frames and this one seems to pip my shortlist - can anybody tell me if these frames are UK bound?

    AR
    Freeborn have not been a banshee distributor for around 6 months now, we have a proper new distributor lined up to start in a couple of months so watch this space...
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
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  29. #29
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    @AdrianoMTB

    Could you be so kind and measure the standover at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint? Should be 734mm but do not know at which position of the toptube banshee takes the numbers from.

    Thanks, Andy

  30. #30
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    Great!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride View Post
    Freeborn have not been a banshee distributor for around 6 months now, we have a proper new distributor lined up to start in a couple of months so watch this space...
    That is fantastic news - I will be watching this space daily! I take it the colours are ano black, raw and blue for the UK market?

    AR

  31. #31
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    Adriano, have you had any other banshees in the past as to get an idea about sizing?

    Im on a L legend and thinking of switching to a L rune. Im also 6'0, what do you reckon?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by karpi View Post
    Adriano, have you had any other banshees in the past as to get an idea about sizing?

    Im on a L legend and thinking of switching to a L rune. Im also 6'0, what do you reckon?
    No firsthand experience but it almost always works out that one brand's bikes all fit the same - ie if you're a medium for one of their bikes, you're a medium for all their bikes. So I'd bet you're right on planning on a large.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear View Post
    That is fantastic news - I will be watching this space daily! I take it the colours are ano black, raw and blue for the UK market?

    AR
    UK market will offer the same products as the rest of the world once we are set up with the new distributor.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
    www.bansheebikes.com
    Banshee Blog

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    OP...you find the KS Link suspension better than your previous DW Link on the Mojo? Can you explain the difference in feel and why you like the KS better. How's it climb up ugly terrain?
    Well, from my experience the ks link suspensions looks very similar to dwlink but this system has 2 important improvements respect to the Dwlink.

    1. The dw link of the mojo was progressive-regressive in the leverage ratio so it was very easy to get the full travel of the bike even not jumping... the KS system itīs by far more progressive and keeps the medium section of the travel perfectly, so in the overall itīs better the Ks Link due to keep the pedal efficiency ( even improving it a little bit) and itīs more progressive.

    2. About the climbs, itīs important to remain that the ability of a bike to climp up just depend the geometry more than the system, obviously the system itīs fundamental but if i had to choose my priority... it would be the first, the geometry and second the system.

    3. So, once clarified this point. Figure if this bike climps up good that itīs not properly to put the fox ctd on CLIMB mode due the hardness of the propedal ( I running it into position 1) so putting the fox ctd on position TRAIL the bikes climbs up simply perfect... but I want to clarify that itīs not a question of the suspension system... itīs a questión of the Bike geometry + suspensión system, without one of these points, the bike would not be whatīs it righ now.

    4. Another important point itīs that the pedal kickback has been reduced by more than 1 point respect to the ibis, so itīs really good!

    The really god point itīs owing to this great suspension system and the geometry, it will be perfect run a shock without propedal ... like the ccdb air or vivid air or even coil. This ks system does not need any propedal or similar... therefore, build up a coil for example would be PERFECT! ( I chose the fox only because just for the weight loss...)

    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    @AdrianoMTB

    Could you be so kind and measure the standover at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint? Should be 734mm but do not know at which position of the toptube banshee takes the numbers from.

    Thanks, Andy
    Hi Andy

    To be honest Iīve never done this kind of measure, how can I do it?


    Quote Originally Posted by karpi View Post
    Adriano, have you had any other banshees in the past as to get an idea about sizing?

    Im on a L legend and thinking of switching to a L rune. Im also 6'0, what do you reckon?
    I never have another banshee, this is my first one. but to be more clear, Iīve been running a mojo HD in size L during 2 years and the bikes feels like small to me (Running a kindshock with overdue and a 50mm stem), this banshee is by far, longer in the top tube... to figure out, Iīm running a 40mm stem and a reverb and fits me perfect!!! If youīre 6.0 donīt hesitate and buy a L size... believe me...

    This bike itīs designed to ridden hard and put a 60-70mm stem it would be an error from my perspective... this bike deserves a short stem and a wide bar to get more control and down very very fast!!!!

  35. #35
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    Finished my build today mostly using parts from my old Rune, I like my bikes to look industrial like machines so its not a very fancy build.

    Frame: Banshee Rune medium. Neutral chips, 55.5 degrees.
    Shock: Fox CTD
    Forks: Rock Shox Lyrik Coil
    Wheels: Superstar AM with Switch Evo hubs
    Fr Tyre: Schwalbe Big Betty
    Rr Tyre: Schwalbe Hans Dampf
    Headset: Hope ZS
    Stem: Renthal Duo
    Bars: Renthal Fatbar 780mm
    Grips: ODI Troy Lee Designs
    Brakes: Shimano SLX w/ Icetech rotors
    Drivetrain: Shimano SLX w/ XT front mech
    Bottom Bracket: Hope Stainless
    Chain device: E13 DRS with Hope bashring
    Pedals: Superstar Nanotech ( these pedals refuse to die)
    Seat post: Rock Shox Reverb
    Seat: SDG Bel-air















    I've only had half an hour to play with the bike so I can't give a proper opinion of it but my first impressions are very good. It's super stiff, the suspension is much more plush and active than the old Rune yet it pedals ridiculously well for a 6" travel AM frame. Maybe it's the new bike feeling but it seems much lighter to ride too, no idea on final weight nor do I care, it feels good so that's all that matters.

    Gonna give it a good ride tomorrow so I'll post more then.

  36. #36
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    @AdrianoMTB

    No problem, just measure the height of the bike from the floor up to the toptube.
    But not at the stem or the seattube, but at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint. So this should be at 1/3 of the complete toptube lenght, right where you stand over the bike.
    That is why it is called standover - height...



    Thanks, Andy

  37. #37
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    Im so jelous of you guys, looking at your bikes! They look awesome! Let us know how they ride.

    Keith, any word on sizing, legend L versus Rune L? Thanks!

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by karpi View Post
    Im so jelous of you guys, looking at your bikes! They look awesome! Let us know how they ride.

    Keith, any word on sizing, legend L versus Rune L? Thanks!
    Those bikes aren't really comparible, but generally if you ride a large legend you'll want either a large or XL rune V2. You'll have to compare the V2 geometry to a trail bike's geometry that fits you well.
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  39. #39
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    Hi.
    Danshee, very nice.
    Have you weighed the frame in size medium?
    Thanks.
    Last edited by rokesoke; 11-03-2012 at 12:23 PM.

  40. #40
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    Large then it is for me! Thanks!

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by rokesoke View Post
    Hi.
    Danshee, very nice.
    Have you weighed teh frame in size medium?
    Thanks.
    No, sorry.

  42. #42
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    Congratulatons Adriano!, That bike is awesome.

  43. #43
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    Very nice Danshee! How tall are you and what is your inseam? The reason asking, you are running your V2 just how I would with 780 bars and 50mm stem on medium size, even though I could fit a large as well, but more than likely have run a 35mm stem at the longest for ideal reach. The longer reach of the V2 vs V1 has my trumped with sizing as my large V1 was as big as I would want in a frame for all trail riding ran w/45mm stem.
    Ride On!

  44. #44
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    ...please, asap, you must drop some lines about how feel this cute bike!!

    Pleease!!

    p.s. especially how it's different in technical dh than the mojo HD, and if we can take it for small bike park tour

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Very nice Danshee! How tall are you and what is your inseam? The reason asking, you are running your V2 just how I would with 780 bars and 50mm stem on medium size, even though I could fit a large as well, but more than likely have run a 35mm stem at the longest for ideal reach. The longer reach of the V2 vs V1 has my trumped with sizing as my large V1 was as big as I would want in a frame for all trail riding ran w/45mm stem.
    Hi, I'm 5'10" with a 32" inseam. My immediate reaction on sitting on the bike was that it seemed much longer than the v1.5 and I was a bit worried that it wouldn't be as playful. That worry lasted about 5 minutes into my first ride.

    I've had a couple of hours playing at a local, easy going trail park today, I promised myself I'd go steady and spend the day getting the bike dialled in. Ten minutes in I'd forgotten all about that and I overshot a jump and clipped a tree, snapping my brake lever. That was a good sign. Luckily, I was able to buy a new one and was back riding in an hour. That's one of the things I love about Runes, they push you to ride faster.

    To me, the new Rune feels really natural, what I mean by this is that it's easy to forget about what the bike is doing leaving you to concentrate on riding, once I had everything set how I wanted it I never felt as though the bike was behaving badly or doing anything weird.

    Pumping through berms and rollers feels great and the bike accelerates very nicely, it's a joy to manual too. It's super stiff, it has a confident and solid downhill bike feel to it when you're going down. This is all pretty much standard for all versions of the Rune though, where the V2 has surprised me is in its pedalling efficiency.

    The pedal platform is brilliant. Sprinting downhill, the power transfer feels really direct, pedalling uphill in the seat, I didn't notice any feedback or bobbing, I'm sure there probably is some but I didn't feel it at all. I tried the climb mode on the shock a few times and didn't notice any difference, like AdrianoMTB says, there's no need for pro pedal. On steep sections I did start to feel the front end wandering but I can drop the front a bit by removing a headset spacer.

    Another surprising thing was how planted it felt through rock gardens. Again, I could just forget about what the bike was doing and ride the line I wanted without thinking that the bike felt harsh or skittish.

    So, my initial impressions are great, its all the good bits of the previous Runes but improved in every way. The worst thing about it was waiting for my riding mates to catch up and also everyone wanting to stop and talk about it.

    Edit: holy ****, I didn't realise I'd gushed so much, sorry for the wall of text.

  46. #46
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    @Danshee

    Hi Danshee,

    thanks for the good first review. Me personal I would like to hear a little bit more about the agility of the bike, escpecially in more technical sections or technical uphills. Does it feel long or just right? Is it playful only when in the air or with an good amount of speed or also at slow steep sections?

    Thanks

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    Hi, sorry I can't really comment at the moment because there wasn't really any technical climbs on today's ride. I noticed that I could pop up steps and rocks easily really easily and the bike didn't pitch me forward when the rear rolled over the step/rock. It handled uphill switchbacks with no problems which I didn't really expect. I kind of expected the bike to feel a bit long and thought that it would take a while to adapt but this wasn't the case at all.

  48. #48
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    Fd xt?

    @Danshee: I see that you use your old XT FD? Is ist for 2 or 3 Crank`s? Please sende me the Nummer of the FD (for Example:FD-M770 E-Type)!

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    @AdrianoMTB

    No problem, just measure the height of the bike from the floor up to the toptube.
    But not at the stem or the seattube, but at approx. 200mm away from the toptube-seattube joint. So this should be at 1/3 of the complete toptube lenght, right where you stand over the bike.
    That is why it is called standover - height...



    Thanks, Andy
    Ok so after measured it.. the result itīs

    800mm

    Quote Originally Posted by arthuar View Post
    ...please, asap, you must drop some lines about how feel this cute bike!!

    Pleease!!

    p.s. especially how it's different in technical dh than the mojo HD, and if we can take it for small bike park tour

    Hi Arthuar!

    Itīs too soon to drop some final results about the bike, Iīve not had enough time to squeeze it to know perfectly how the bike performs but the differents respect to the Mojo HD are very very clear...

    Mojo HD -- "Old" Geometry
    Rune -- "New" Geometry (thatīs the main point.. you canīt imagine how important is it..)

    Mojo Hd -- Very short bike.. too much in fact ( 1134mm wheelbase in size L)
    rUNE -- perfect wheelbase for a enduro bike (up to bikeparks etc...) (1180mm in size L)

    The dwlink is pretty similar to the KS Link but the KS link suspension is little bit more developed in some parts... so in overall.. better the Ks Link and the feelings inside the trail..

    The technical parts depends more on the rider rather than the bike but a with the same rider (ME ) the Rune simply kills the Mojo hd... thatīs it

  51. #51
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    @AdrianoMTB

    Thanks for measuring the standover...800mm...thatīs a lot compared to the banshee tech sheet with 734mm...

    Good to hear that you have lots of fun with your new mountain gear anyway...

  52. #52
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    Great initial impression report of the V2 Danshee! One of the things that I always like about my older Runes is how well they sprinted, pedalled and accelerated in/out of the turns and popped off of jumps.

    BTW, are you 5'10" with no shoes and 32" inseam your pants length, not actual inseam as measure with level in crotch and measurement from floor to top of level? I typically wear 32" pants, but my actual inseam is 35" when measured as above and I am 5'10.5" w/bike shoes on and have been doing much deliberating between a large or medium V2 since I prefer to run shorter stems on all my bikes and 23" Eff. top tube bikes typically are too short for me. So, if the V2 feels much longer than the V1.5 with same ETT, than a medium very well may work for me without feeling too crammed on the climbs up (thumbs up!)

    Thanks again!
    Ride On!

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    Hey jgusta,

    I'm 5' 10" with no shoes and have 33.5" inside leg from floor to crotch. My other Runes have been mediums which had pretty short cockpits, the new one feels noticeably longer to me but I got used to it almost immediately. I'll take more measurements tonight if anyone wants them, right now I'm going to ride to work in the minus degree fog

  54. #54
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    my Rune V2 is already landed, according to the tracking number... so maybe there is a surprise at home waiting after work

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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    my Rune V2 is already landed, according to the tracking number... so maybe there is a surprise at home waiting after work
    Oh yeah!

  57. #57
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    Sweet shot with raw frame and frost! Thanks for taking measurements, sounds like reach on medium V2 is much closer to reach on V1 large, despite 1" differnece in ETT between the two. If reach feels a little on the long side for ya, you can always push the saddle forward some and/or roll the bars back a bit. That's always what I did on my large frames.

    Are you running your V2 with neutral chips for 65.5 HTA and 13.65" BB as pictured?
    Ride On!

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Hey jgusta,

    I'm 5' 10" with no shoes and have 33.5" inside leg from floor to crotch. My other Runes have been mediums which had pretty short cockpits, the new one feels noticeably longer to me but I got used to it almost immediately. I'll take more measurements tonight if anyone wants them, right now I'm going to ride to work in the minus degree fog
    Was your inseam measurement taken with shoes or not? Thanks as I have my post already slightly above the max position on current bike with 18" seat tube (375mm Thomson post) while in typical climb position and will have to get a new 410mm post for sure at the very least with medium frame. Never owned a <18" seat tubed bike as I am a bit longer in legs for my height and do fairly long'ish steep climbs on regular basis to get to the fun descents that warrants a little taller seat tube or post extension, but don't like the feeling of bigger bikes while descending as why 9'ers never had appealed to me in the past. Thanks again as I haven't ordered a frame without hoping on it first in sometime now.
    Ride On!

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    Inseam measurement was without shoes and the flip chips are in the 55.5 degree position.

  60. #60
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    The new Rune looks great but I miss seeing the old Rune logo. Super minor complaint.. Looking forward to seeing more builds (& new Spitfires)!

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    Inseam measurement was without shoes and the flip chips are in the 55.5 degree position.
    Thanks. Would you mind taking the wheelbase (center of axle to axle), standover height (believe it's 6" in front BB from floor to top of top tube), effective top tube (mid head tube to mid post on level horizontal line) and your total bar height (top of bars to floor with bike in most vertical position) if you don't mind and have a chance to do so? Thanks as sometimes the numbers are a bit different than what is listed, epecially with different set ups and I plan to run quite similar components as yours from my current bike with neutral chips, Lyrik fork, 2.3 tires and looks like we are the exact same height/inseam sans shoes.

    Cheers!
    Jon
    Ride On!

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    without words:







  63. #63
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    Awesome. Is it medium size?. Can you weigh the frame?

  64. #64
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    it is a large frame...

    frame plus shock plus standard dropouts weight ~3680gr... 142mm dropouts incl. 12mm axle weight about 80gr more... so, I am very pleased with the weight... total weight with lyrik coil and ztr flow wheels and 1x9, and droppost will be arround 15kg, btw. 33pounds...

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    cracking pics, I look forward to seeing a full build!

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    Yes very nice, my only complaint would be that somehow ugly brown FOX-shock....

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    the brown does not really sting out in reality... so, I will judge it by it's performance... hope it delivers, else I will get myself a vivid air or something like that...

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    @jgusta

    Wheelbase 116cm
    Stand over 76cm
    Bar height 100cm
    ETT 57.5cm

    Nice pics MalcolmX !

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    And add another 300g to the rig?
    As far as I know the vivid is a very good shock, that could replace most coil shocks for DH without many limitations, but for standard AM or trail riding with serious uphill sections, there are better choices....

  70. #70
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    I know, but since I rode my Rue V1 with a Fox RC4 coil shock, weight is not really an issue... it's all about performance (performance is the name of the game - anyone still knows this song by MC Spandex?)

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    by the way, since this was already the case with my V1 rune...
    the seatpost delivered with the frame is useless! why is the question, and the answere is: both seatposts i received with my rune frames are labeled 30,9mm, but in fact, the real diameter is a touch under 30,8mm... you guys at banshee might wana check why this is the case... it is a pity because the seatpost itself is great!! it looks good, has a good clamp, and it is very lightweight. but that does not help... I have now 2 seatposts with 30,8mm at home that i cannot use...

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    The v2 feels pretty light when pedalling but still manages to feel planted through rough stuff. Weight really isn't a concern to me with this frame.

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    Still curious about the performance and feel in technical uphills and slow, steep sections (up and down)...

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    Quote Originally Posted by kalkhoffpink View Post
    Still curious about the performance and feel in technical uphills and slow, steep sections (up and down)...
    I am also very curious about this aspect of the bikes handling ability.

    It has an extremely slack HA adjustment range. The steepest setting makes to the BB too high so is useless. So basically this bike has to be run with a 65.5 HA.

    I am concerned that in low speed and flat terrain that the front end will get caught up on obstacles rather than ride over them - thus make the bike slow and awkward to keep tracking in a straight line.

    Also how is the weight balance of the bike on steep seated climbing?

  75. #75
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    kalkhoffpink and horsey24, whatīs your Problem?

    Both AdrianoMTB and Danshee mentioned the Runeīs great Geometry, Pedal-efficiency, Acceleration without bobbing and Pedalkickback. That should work on slow steep technical Climbs too?!?

    Since when do slack Headangles get caught up on Obstacles, even slow and technical? How could a Bike feel awkward as your Position over the Bike is so much improved through Geometry, more centered due to the longer Reach? And since when are BB-Heights around 350 mm (in the Runes steepest (!!!) Setting) useless, when around 90 Percent of all Enduro-Bikes have BB-Heights like this?
    Should work on slow steep technical Descends too, donīt you think ...

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    I am not worried at all... 350-355mm is already quite low for a 6" bike (the enduros that were really high had bb-hieght of 37-38cm!!!), I suppose, for trailriding, the lowest position will be really a challenge when it comes to clearing rocks, roots etc. on technical trails, e.g. when crossing a steep slope etc... so I think, banshee really really nailed it with the geometry positions possible... if you think that this is not right for your riding style, you are either used to weired stuff, or it is just not the bike for you...

    and that a slack headangle is a bad thing for technical terrain is the most absurd thing I have ever heared... if that would be the case, why would most vertride-oriented bikers go for the slacket headangle they can get? I have never had any issues going downh technical terrain with my legend, not at all, although it has a long wheelbase, very slack headangle and limited manoverability due to dual crown, but the slack headangle and stiffness make up for that in terms of control...

    climbing - well, it is a 6" enduro, so I dont expect it to climb like a goat on steroids... but still, the seatangle is very steep and the kinematics should provide a good, bob-free platform, which is what the users here already say, so I cant see any problems ahead in this area... slow, steep climbing is for lycra guys, and I honestly don't mind how a bike performs in that area... probably not great due to the long wheelbase...

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    kalkhoffpink and horsey24, whatīs your Problem?
    I don't think either of us stated a problem. We are simply are asking a question and seeking a response from someone who has actually ridden the bike.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmX View Post
    and that a slack headangle is a bad thing for technical terrain is the most absurd thing I have ever heared... if that would be the case, why would most vertride-oriented bikers go for the slacket headangle they can get?
    both the question from myself and the other guy were specific to 'flat' technical terrain and 'low speed' when a slack head angle can get caught up on square edge hits rather then roll up and over them.

  79. #79
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    I've only had two rides on the V2 and I can only comment on what I've experienced so far, which isn't much.

    That said, the V2 pedals suprisingly well uphill for such a slack AM bike. I imagine that this has something to do with the seat tube angle but even though the head angle is slack there is still a lot of weight over the front wheel.

    When I drop the seat post down, shift my weight back and get into a downhill attack position the bike feels slack and well planted, when I put my seat post up and sit down then there's enough weight put over the front wheel to easily keep it under control, rolling up over rocks was no problem at all and I never felt as though I was hooking up on anything. I did notice that the front was wandering a little bit on steep uphill sections but I'm running 20mm of spacers between the stem and headset so I'm going to take these out tonight.

    I've got to say that if you're someone who has concerns over 300g or think that the geometry doesn't look good then perhaps the Rune isn't best suited to you.

  80. #80
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    for flat technical trails, I don't think a steeper headangle bike will get caught up less...
    the slacker the headangle, the more the hit comes into the direction of the fork rather than "pushing" the fork backwards...

    but I can give a detailed ride report next week... my V1 rune was sitting at 65,5° with 170mm fork and angleset, and I thought it was perfect for almost any situation I found myself in...

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by horsey24 View Post
    both the question from myself and the other guy were specific to 'flat' technical terrain and 'low speed' when a slack head angle can get caught up on square edge hits rather then roll up and over them.
    Horsey, I know it wasnīt stated as a "Problem"
    But again, I donīt see any issue there, as Malcolm has quoted: The slacker the Headangle, the more the hit comes into the direction of the Fork rather than "pushing" the Fork backwards. Another thing that could help is slightly lifting up the Front while the Rear will follow. On tight Switchbacks maybe this "Foreward-Geometry" needs a slightly Change in Ridingstyle or Technique, but in my Opinion something to get used to immediately.
    Kalkhoffpink is my Bike-Mate on a large Wildcard, and should think about what or where a Rune gives improvements over the Wildcard - letīs bet he does !
    In my Book there are some: Steeper Seatangle that should support climbing, slacker Headangle that should support descending, more subtle and maybe neutral Suspension, and and and ...

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdrianoMTB View Post
    Hi guys!!

    Iīm running a 40mm stem right now and Iīm 6,0

    I feel the bike very helpfull at geometries level, and the bike itīs a really LARGE in fact, running a 40mm stem regarding my heigh probable gives you a minimum idea about the size.. itīs perfect.
    Hi, could you take one measurement from the nose off the saddle to the middle of the handle bar. I'm wondering about the frame size as I'm always somewhere between the M and L sized frames.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    @jgusta

    Wheelbase 116cm
    Stand over 76cm
    Bar height 100cm
    ETT 57.5cm

    Nice pics MalcolmX !
    Thanks Danshee, your the man, much appreciated.

    ETT is a little shorter than I was hoping/expecting it to be. Everything else looks good to go for me, sizing wise. Would you mind taking a reach measurement as well? (horizontal line from mid-HT to vertical line off BB).

    Thanks again
    Ride On!

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    Edited out. I'll take measurements tonight when I have more time.
    Last edited by Danshee; 11-07-2012 at 02:02 AM.

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    sorry mate, but somhow, I don't believe your meassurements.
    a stack of 56cm is entirely possible with a 160mm fork (did you meassure it with a talas, traveled down to 100mm?) and the reach is not possible either with a wheelbase of 116cm... so whatever you are meassuring, think about it and doo it again, please... posting wrong numbers won't help anyone out there...

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    I'll do it again tonight, admittedly I did it in a rush before work.

  87. #87
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    Sorry for asking, but why all this meassurements when there are Geo-Charts???

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    which, reflecting my meassurements so far, seems to be totally spot-on...

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Sorry for asking, but why all this meassurements when there are Geo-Charts???
    Cause they vary to some degree base on set-up and he is running pretty much the same/very similar specs as I would on his medium V2. FWIW, my large V1 Rune geo specs listed a WB of 45.1", but was more like 45.7", then over 46" with angleset added. ETT was listed as 24", but more like 23.5" when I measured with level and tape measure three times (mid-head tube to mid post on horizontal line).

    I am a tweener' in sizing and wont be able to check out a medium and large V2 in person, so going by actual static numbers to see which size is most closest to the bike that I am on now that fits pretty well, if not a on the long side. Of course, the amount of travel, sag, tire pressure, suspension leverage rates/kinematics all effect geometry as well.
    Ride On!

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    Hey jgusta,

    well I get your point. Iīm mostly in between M and L, too and always went fine with M. Had the same question again for the coming Spitfire V2, and decided to go with M, because it is longer overall than my medium Wildcard.

    Yes, Geometry may vary depending on Partspec, no doubt.
    As far as I can see the Geometry of the Rune V2 changed mostly in the Seatangle -> steeper, which makes for a longer Reach as the effective Toptube seems similiar to the V1, shorter Chainstays and a slacker Headangle. Together with the longer Reach the Wheelbase is significantly longer. All in all a lot more "Foreward-Geometry" than the Rune V1.

    Another question is: How do Banshee make these measurements? Some take the Toptube as you described it (the HTs real Center), others take the TT on the Topside-Center of the HT to mid post on horizontal line. This could make a difference!

    In my opinion:
    If your large Rune V1 is fine I would go with a large V2. The most noticeable change for you should be the longer Reach, wich means the Bike feels slightly longer when out of the Saddle. Staying seated and pedalling there might not be a big difference, because the Toptubelength is closely the same. Pedalling would change too, as the Legmotion will be more downward instead of foreward-downward - the (in my opinion) greatest Feature these "new-school" Geometries gives you, next to the enhanced Power and Control over the Frontend of the Bike.
    If your large Rune V1 feels more on the long side (not that much appreciated?), than the medium V2 could be the better choice, as the stretched out Reach makes for an overall "longer" Bike, at least when standing out of the Saddle.

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle

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    Ok, here's the measurements that I've just taken.

    Wheelbase (axle to axle) 115.2cm
    Reach 41.5cm
    Stack 58.1cm

    Which pretty much matches the geo chart.

    I'm quite surprised by these measurements because the v2 feels longer to me.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hey jgusta,

    well I get your point. Iīm mostly in between M and L, too and always went fine with M. Had the same question again for the coming Spitfire V2, and decided to go with M, because it is longer overall than my medium Wildcard.

    Yes, Geometry may vary depending on Partspec, no doubt.
    As far as I can see the Geometry of the Rune V2 changed mostly in the Seatangle -> steeper, which makes for a longer Reach as the effective Toptube seems similiar to the V1, shorter Chainstays and a slacker Headangle. Together with the longer Reach the Wheelbase is significantly longer. All in all a lot more "Foreward-Geometry" than the Rune V1.

    Another question is: How do Banshee make these measurements? Some take the Toptube as you described it (the HTs real Center), others take the TT on the Topside-Center of the HT to mid post on horizontal line. This could make a difference!

    In my opinion:
    If your large Rune V1 is fine I would go with a large V2. The most noticeable change for you should be the longer Reach, wich means the Bike feels slightly longer when out of the Saddle. Staying seated and pedalling there might not be a big difference, because the Toptubelength is closely the same. Pedalling would change too, as the Legmotion will be more downward instead of foreward-downward - the (in my opinion) greatest Feature these "new-school" Geometries gives you, next to the enhanced Power and Control over the Frontend of the Bike.
    If your large Rune V1 feels more on the long side (not that much appreciated?), than the medium V2 could be the better choice, as the stretched out Reach makes for an overall "longer" Bike, at least when standing out of the Saddle.

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle
    Thanks NS, much appreciated. On the large V1 w/angleset, I was running a 45mm stem with bars rolled forward some and saddle rails all the way forward. I am on a medium SB-66 now that mostly reflects a medium V2, with ETT and ST more similar to that of large V2. Once again, 50mm stem w/bars rolled forward a bit and saddle rails maxed forward.
    Ride On!

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Thanks NS, much appreciated. On the large V1 w/angleset, I was running a 45mm stem with bars rolled forward some and saddle rails all the way forward. I am on a medium SB-66 now that mostly reflects a medium V2, with ETT and ST more similar to that of large V2. Once again, 50mm stem w/bars rolled forward a bit and saddle rails maxed forward.
    Hi jgusta,

    hmmm, if I understand this right it sounds like a medium Rune V2 should fit well?! On a large V1 or medium SB-66 you both have your saddle rails forward plus bars rolled foreward.

    My guess:
    1.) Sounds to me like both Frames feels slightly on the longer side in ETT, this is why the Saddle is placed foreward - to shorten the ETT?! Or to compensate the slacker Seatangles?! Not shure how to take the Bars ... This could happen on a large Rune V2, too and doesnīt sound spot-on to me.

    2.) With a medium Rune V2 thereīs maybe no need for this any more, because (as far as I know) the new Rune offers a steeper SA than the Yeti and Rune V1 (more foreward position), this could make a change in your way mounting the Bars and Saddle. And due to the slightly shorter ETT your Saddle could be placed right in the middle of the rails to get your "perfect" length in the Toptube.

    Just my opinion/interpretation - I may be wrong, but I hope it helps somehow

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoStyle View Post
    Hi jgusta,

    hmmm, if I understand this right it sounds like a medium Rune V2 should fit well?! On a large V1 or medium SB-66 you both have your saddle rails forward plus bars rolled foreward.

    My guess:
    1.) Sounds to me like both Frames feels slightly on the longer side in ETT, this is why the Saddle is placed foreward - to shorten the ETT?! Or to compensate the slacker Seatangles?! Not shure how to take the Bars ... This could happen on a large Rune V2, too and doesnīt sound spot-on to me.

    2.) With a medium Rune V2 thereīs maybe no need for this any more, because (as far as I know) the new Rune offers a steeper SA than the Yeti and Rune V1 (more foreward position), this could make a change in your way mounting the Bars and Saddle. And due to the slightly shorter ETT your Saddle could be placed right in the middle of the rails to get your "perfect" length in the Toptube.

    Just my opinion/interpretation - I may be wrong, but I hope it helps somehow

    Many Greetings
    NoStyle
    Good question and thanks for the suggestions. I push the saddle forward on the rails to max position to shorten the reach some when descending, but mostly due to offset the slacker seat tube angle to aid in climbing and keep the front wheel down more as my SB-66 has a <71 degree STA with <66 deg HTA that I use for "all trail" riding. But yes, other medium bikes I have ridden (Spec. Enduro, Pivot Firebird) with 23" ETT's and <18" ST's typically feel too crammed and short to me, but they also have a shorter reach so just trying to actualize how a bike with much shorter ETT than what I am used to and longer reach works for all trail riding duties? If I had to paint a picture of what the perfect sized "AM" bike would be for me, it would have a 18-18.5" seat tube, 23.5-23.8" ETT, 45.5" WB, <17" CS's, 13.5" BB, 16.5-16.75" reach, 23" stack with at least 6" of travel, wide bars/short stem.
    Ride On!

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danshee View Post
    I'm quite surprised by these measurements because the v2 feels longer to me.
    Probably cause the V2 medium has about the same reach and wheelbase as a large V1, which would definitely make the bike feel longer as a whole.

    Ok, one last measurement if you don't mind to help ease my indecisive peace of mind . How about mid bars (at mid stem clamp) to tip of saddle on level horizontal line with saddle in your preferred descending position height? Thanks as this is the typical measurement I use when transfering parts over to one bike to another to get about the same feel between the two.
    Ride On!

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Probably cause the V2 medium has about the same reach and wheelbase as a large V1, which would definitely make the bike feel longer as a whole.

    Ok, one last measurement if you don't mind to help ease my indecisive peace of mind . How about mid bars (at mid stem clamp) to tip of saddle on level horizontal line with saddle in your preferred descending position height? Thanks as this is the typical measurement I use when transfering parts over to one bike to another to get about the same feel between the two.
    Holy Crap You're anal! Ill have mine in a week or so. If you're nice ill let you sit on it.

    Wait...that didn't come out right.

  97. #97
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    Hahah!

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    Anyone in the US have one yet? I keep checking Trident's web site, and they still show the old frame and no stock.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by belljeffw View Post
    Anyone in the US have one yet? I keep checking Trident's web site, and they still show the old frame and no stock.
    A shipment of frames just got off the boat in Canada this week. Mine is among them. Couldn't say how big the shipment is.

    Hopefully my frame will arrive in a week or two.

  100. #100
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    I have a busted knee and couldn't ride if I had the thing. Don't know why I'm so impatient : )

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