I think I´m the first to have the official and final Banshee Rune v2. Nothing but to say that this is the really first bike I see it´s almost perfect!!! Since the geometries (absolutely awesome) until the suspension system... probably the best I´ve ever try in my life ( my last bike was a Ibis mojo hd and it was a good bike too but... this Rune is outstanding)
Well.. before the photo session it´s important to point out some data to get a better idea about this kind of bike...
Frame weight --> Size L ( 3.6 kilos With shock) ( 7.9 lbs)
The main points of this bike are
Head Angle (With lyrik 170mm rc2 dh coil) --> 65º
Seat Angle --> 73,5º
Bottom Bracket Heigh --> 345mm ( So less than the geo chart even with the lyrik)
Wheelbase --> 1185mm
I'm running the ctd on the shore as well but I've been pleasantly surprised at it, but it is SUPER liner, Fox redesigned it to be this way. So if you're looking for that great ramp up limitless travel feel, the CTD isn't going to cut it. IMO their internal boost value needs work.
CCDB air is the best air shock for it but you won't get the pedaling performance out of it that you get ctd, but at less you can adjust the curve to your liking.
The only thing I have been cautioned on about the DB is that some people find it's TOO adjustable.so if you are going to buy it get ready to tune and re-tune endlessly.
on the coil side, I've been told to just get the DB Air. when it's setup right you won't notice the difference.
I'm running the ctd on the shore as well but I've been pleasantly surprised at it, but it is SUPER liner, Fox redesigned it to be this way. So if you're looking for that great ramp up limitless travel feel, the CTD isn't going to cut it. IMO their internal boost value needs work.
CCDB air is the best air shock for it but you won't get the pedaling performance out of it that you get ctd, but at less you can adjust the curve to your liking.
The only thing I have been cautioned on about the DB is that some people find it's TOO adjustable.so if you are going to buy it get ready to tune and re-tune endlessly.
on the coil side, I've been told to just get the DB Air. when it's setup right you won't notice the difference.
Nice, thanks for the input Resnick. I love to tinker with the settings so think I might just opt for the DB Air. Thats the problem with the CTD, there's not much to adjust, so I think the shock isnt performing as well as it should. Maybe its ok!
Out of interest, how have you got your CTD set up? Much rebound? Sag?
Rebound I have set a little slower than the mid setting. from the slowest setting (clockwsie until it stops). I have it 7 clicks counter clockwise. I find this is better for fast chundery sections my tester spot is the last 100 meters of lower griffin ending at the bottom of KOTS.
my bump compliance feels much better at this setting. when I turn it up higher my backend seems to kickup to much. I haven't tried this setting on Bob Sled to see how it performs on a smooth trail yet but I'll keep you posted.
Rebound I have set a little slower than the mid setting. from the slowest setting (clockwsie until it stops). I have it 7 clicks counter clockwise. I find this is better for fast chundery sections my tester spot is the last 100 meters of lower griffin ending at the bottom of KOTS.
my bump compliance feels much better at this setting. when I turn it up higher my backend seems to kickup to much. I haven't tried this setting on Bob Sled to see how it performs on a smooth trail yet but I'll keep you posted.
Great to know, thanks man! The Fox app told me 1 click in from fastest - which was way off. I am currently riding with around 4 clicks from fastest and like you mentioned it feels too harsh on those chundery sections (I too use Griffen as a test run! Bobsled felt ok, but still too harsh where it gets a little bumpy near the bottom.) I'll try another couple of clicks and see how it goes. Compression-wise, I find there doesnt seem to be a whole lot of difference between the Trail and DH settings. So I usually just keep it in Trail 2. You?
...well, i dont think ist normal as well, thats why im complaining ...i can understand if theres a delay of a few weeks, but in three months of delay you can already run out of your patience, trust me ...especially if youve paid a down payment (as it was a pre-order), sold your old frame already and your dealer is ignoring your inquiries about the delivery (probably feeling pathetic already... no wonder) :/
I have the same situation ;( I'm from Prague. and we have probable the same distributor But I'm ordered this frame at October 2012.... and I'm still waiting for information about approximately delivery date, no for frame, "but only for delivery date"
This is not professional from Brand / Distributor. I will be really happy if i will get any decision from the brand managers. (distributor-impossible to contact- still away, still on roads, switchyng offline from skype if I'm Online, etc....) it's a 5 months ago when i make a complaint for Rune V1,5. som I bought bikes 8 months ago and i can't riding and I don't have function bike....Which person i can contact about this problem? som specifically mails or phone numbers directly to banshee?
...obviously we have been misled by our dealer (charvat bros) in terms of the frames delivery ...i know about a few other customers complaining about the same issues they have with them ...lack of communication, unreal predictions (or even lies) ...if i would have known this, i would have avoided any business with them and keep my carbon nomad ...im sure the new rune is a nice frame, but after 3 months of delay ive definitely run out of my patience! amen :madman:
Hey all. Think I've narrowed it down, to either Rune or Knolly Chili.
Rune appears to be dialed, but I'm wondering about mud build up in that lower linkage pocket, and short bearing life? (It rains A LOT here) Are there any issues with that?
I've also noticed a few of you are running 180mm forks... how does it climb on steeps? Does it feel it out of balance in the air? I actually had planned to run a 170mm Fox Van/ CCDBA combo, any thoughts?
Hey all. Think I've narrowed it down, to either Rune or Knolly Chili.
Rune appears to be dialed, but I'm wondering about mud build up in that lower linkage pocket, and short bearing life? (It rains A LOT here) Are there any issues with that?
I've also noticed a few of you are running 180mm forks... how does it climb on steeps? Does it feel it out of balance in the air? I actually had planned to run a 170mm Fox Van/ CCDBA combo, any thoughts?
I doubt there is enough time that has been put in on any of these frames when it comes to bearing life. The oldest bearing bikes out there would probably be the prototype Primes. If mud buildup is a concern then perhaps road bikes are more up your alley. As for the 170mm....thats what I run (170mm RS Lyric Coil) and the bike climbs great! I am sure you could run the 180mm in the steep setting and it would be fairly equivalent to running the 170 in the neutral setting but dont quote me on that because I dont know. I am sure either way you will be fine.
Actually, road bike is far from up my alley. It's merely an observation, that pocket is right in the line of fire for huge mud cake. And 75% of my riding is north shore winter rain so it could be a concern.
Obviously this rig has been tried and tested in my back yard, but you never know... remember the bushing idea.
Anyway, Rune is looking fine and probably is my go to. Thanks for info, a 170 fork is likely.
Actually, road bike is far from up my alley. It's merely an observation, that pocket is right in the line of fire for huge mud cake. And 75% of my riding is north shore winter rain so it could be a concern.
Obviously this rig has been tried and tested in my back yard, but you never know... remember the bushing idea.
Anyway, Rune is looking fine and probably is my go to. Thanks for info, a 170 fork is likely.
I live in the PNW and mud isn't an issue in the area above the BB shell. Sure it gets a little grubby in there but nothing to complain about. I have had the bike since November of last year and the bearings are still going strong.
You can find 1/32" plastic sheet pretty easily. Amazon carries it. You can cut it with scissors and use a hole punch for the zip ties. I bought a pair of Marsh Guards for one bike, and traced them on a plastic sheet for the other. Works well.
My Rune XL arrived last week and I'm loving it! XL fits me perfect with a 30mm stem!
I have one problem, I need to tighten the seatpost clamp really hard to
get the seatpost (KS lev) to stay put. I got some creaking sound from the seat tube when I took the bike out today and had to loosen the clamp to make it go away, only problem with that was that I could rotate the seat fairly easy...
I'm thinking of getting a clamp with bolt instead of QR-clamp, I'm not moving the seat anyway.
Seems to vary a bit from frame to frame. Some have no issues and others say it's a tad loose. Seat posts can vary also.
Check this link to the Spitfire thread and some pics of the Salsa Lip Lock and I know that Chromag QR post clamp is dam beefy/strong looking. Might try either one of those.
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